I usually do my soldering between 300 and 350C. If you do a fair amount of soldering, pick up a knockoff Hakko FG-100 tip thermometer and then get the official sensors. This will set you back around $50 total on Amazon, but considering that the official FG-100 is over $200, it’s a steal. Anyway…check your iron for accuracy. The key here is heat transfer. Use the largest tip that fits in/on the pad. A larger tip will retain heat better and will heat a larger area at once. Now as posted above, add some fresh leaded solder to the joint. This will help to lower the melting temperature of the rest of the solder. Final tip is: Don’t forget the flux. Flux is your friend. You can never have too much flux. Flux will save you from bad joints, burned parts, and a lot of swearing. Get yourself some flux in liquid and paste form. Clean up the excess when you’re done with the highest concentration isopropyl alcohol you can find.
Quick tip for putting the shoulder buttons back in place. Don’t try to flex the spring and maneuver it into place. You will just wind up with a missing spring and a scratched cornea. Push the pivot pin down so most of it is hanging out of the bottom of the button. Now you can get the pivot pin in the hole of the case while the spring is straight and not loaded. Your shoulder button will be sticking straight up at this point. Now swing the button down into place and it will flex/load the spring. Problem solved…no missing spring and no eyepatches.
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