The screen was impacted, bent, smashed, damaged some how, or a capacitor is going bad, some times they swell up before they blow out, they at times may leak as well, a visual inspection may reveal this condition, it looks damaged by your picture though. if under warranty turn it in or get the extended warranty asap?

Have you inspected the condenser coil, it is the coil outside the unit, is there any obstructions or is the fan blade dirty? is there heat being rejected from it? Is the compressor running? when it shuts of is the compressor hot? A refrigerator is a Heat pump in its operation & theory. I need to know more, I would forget a board if it were mine and put an old electromechanical timer rather than the circuit board unless the boards cheap, if its $400 forget it.

Buy the new unit. it will be more cost effective for you. Update (10/25/2021): The discharge line can go any way you need, it , unless you used it on its side or upside down I think they are giving you a line of garbage. A compressor is cooled by the cold refrigerant gas coming from the evaporator coil , in an AC system the indoor coil is around 40 F and you typically do not want more than 10 degrees superheat about 1 foot after exiting the evaporator coil. The suction line should be “beer can cold” meaning it will condense moisture from the air onto its surfaces just like a cold can of beer does, this is how they de humidify as you discussed. I would try a capacitor rather than junk the thing, a run capacitor is about $10 and 2 terminals, very simple.

The thermal paste looked dry, the board shows signs of heat, you might consider an after market fan , if it fires up and runs it is ok, I would run a newer fan if I was you.

The refrigeration effect is 100% from the freezer compartment, the refigerator box gets it’s cold air from the freezer compartment.: If the freezer is actually working fine and makes ice that is not wet , the refrigeration cycle is working as evidenced by it’s ability to make ice that is dry. There are 2 control dials for the refrigerator , one will say OFF and 1 through 10 typically, 10 being coldest. This dial is the actual thermostat that cycles the compressor on and off, it has an OFF setting that shuts off the compressor . The 2nd dial typically will also be numbered 1 through 10, ten being the “COLDEST” setting as is the 1st dial. This “COLDEST” setting for the 2nd dial actually say’s colder freezer! what happens many times is someone will say , the fridge seems warm I will make it colder, so they proceed to peg both dials to 10 since that is the setting for “COLDEST”, logically that means coldest refrigerator, but what happens when both dials are set to their maximum cold setting, the air that is...