It worked! Sort of. I bought a highway flex cable replacement and a new battery hoping it would solve an issue. The good news is I was able to replace it, and it’s function as before I replaced the flex cable. The only challenge really was that the audio cable plug in the new flex cable assemble was slightly bigger than the one I removed. I really had to force it down. During reassemble it was important to start left to right too - and it was easier to plug that last cable before installing the audio and USB C sockets. The issue I was trying to solve: My OP-Z will only power on when plugged in. I bought the OP Z used, and it worked fine for a while. But for reasons I can’t explain it stopped working with battery power alone. I tried all the solutions I found online including resetting the battery, firmware, etc. I’m just sharing this in case someone else has the same issue. Other than that, the new flex cable works just like the one it replaced, and I have an extra one now! Thank you!!!
Part 3/3: I can confirm, it seems like an electrical contact issue - and with this camera, barely used other than as described above. It could be a stiff cable, deteriorating plastic? Corroded cable? Not sure. I live in the wet PNW, but in a very dry house with low humidity. I might just buy a cable to have it on hand, will also try screwing and unscrewing if the issue starts up again. I’ll report back here if it does. Thank you everyone for sharing your experience with this issue! I don’t know if it’s widespread, I researched the camera extensively - but of course it isn’t until you have something beyond its warranty you find all kinds of issues. I think it’s a great camera, but this seems to be a significant issue - something to be concerned about if you buy a used camera. Thanks again, all!
Part 2/3: Long story short, today I was testing it, taking a look again at its features. While checking it out I noticed that it would simply turn off, lens extracted, no power, no lens retraction, no error message when I set it down on the table (was trying to do a timed shutter release). I was able to hold the power button and start it up again - the lens would retract, then open again. I noticed that some of the settings reset (autofocus settings - probably not related, but shows the degree of power down. The behavior happened when I would set the camera down on a table, with the case on or off. It triggered once when replacing the case and screwing the bottom mount screw on. I was also able to trigger it by shaking it a couple times. After reading all of this information, I open and closed the battery door when it was off, squeezed the camera on all axes - top to bottom, right to left side, front to back (body only). It’s now working - I can’t trigger the issue.
Hello RX100 owners, I have an RX100 v that I purchased maybe two years ago as an open box. With all of this excitement about the new LX1, and a desire to sell what I don’t use, I decided to revisit my rx100v and validate that it’s good enough for me. Considering it is underutilized, I can’t justify getting a new camera. As far as use and possible damage that may have occurred, I have used this camera minimally, and it’s been floating around in one of my camera bags most of the time. I keep the camera protected in a leather case, which I think provides it some protection. Not long after I bought it I dropped it lens first about 3 feet onto a wooden floor and slightly jammed the lens, which was extended. I was able to easily realign it, and it hasn’t had problems (though like I said, it’s underutilized). Interestingly I did notice a hairline mark on the lens barrel that may indicate it was dropped before (it’s an open box), who knows. (Part 1/3)
I forgot to attach the two bumpers before reassembling my MBP the first time I baked the logic board, so I saved them (for the next time). I needed to do another baking, so I reinstalled them after I was done. I did not have trouble reinstalling the screws as you describe - so maybe some part of the melted bumpers is obscuring the holes?
Thank you ifixit! I used this guide to remove and replace my logic board in my early 2008 MBP. I am among the successful (so far) ones who managed to reflow the gpu solder via the oven method. I purchased a few items from you to do the job. I had nothing to lose, so I went for it - and a detailed step by step guide no doubt was key to my success. The Arctic thermal paste was important to the reassembly as was removing all the dust clogging fans and heatsinks. My machine, which has been sitting collecting dust since last summer is humming quietly - I was able to upgrade to Yosemite on this old workhorse and testing it now. Woo hoo!
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