Navy Vet 2015

Does anyone know what chips reside at Q3 and Q7 on the main Game Gear PCB? Leaky capacitors corroded Q3 and Q7 has already...

I have a GG that has a funky screen issue. The system works fine but my screen is split into thirds. I believe this to be...

Hey everyone. I'm attempting to restore my old game gear. When I opened the system it became instantly clear as to why it...

My gamegear is having issues and I'm not sure what needs to be replaced so I was hoping someone here might be able to...

If you haven't seen it already, full disassembly instructuons here Démontage du bloc d'alimentation de la Xbox One (Édition Day One)

Are your devices plugged into a surge protector or a power strip? Surge will be bulky and power strip a thin bar with outlets. If it took a lightning surge without surge protection it's going to be VERY difficult to identify the problem unless you've got professional training in electronic repair. If there wasn't surge protection you're “lucky" it even powers on at all to attempt to fix it. Unless you have pro skills I only see 2 options, 1 take it to a pro 2 replace the entire system. Unfortunately either way you pay out of pocket. New console would probably be your best bet. Even if a professional gets it working there's 0 guarantee that other parts won't soon follow suit of the original damaged components. If other parts took damage but not enough to fry them than providing full power to the system will only compromise them. Sorry I can't offer better advice

I didn't even know a 1000tb drive existed! Anyway, one nice thing about the xb1 console is that the hdd isn't locked or married the the motherboard anymore which means you can swap drives in and out as you please but they must be formatted in NTFS. If your xb1s hdd works then you can clone it using parted magic or another patrition program. Parted magic was the only one I could get to clone my 500gb to 2tb and it's pretty straight forward. What you'll need to do first is format that big ass drive of yours in ntfs, connect both drives to your pc and within parted magic clone the drive. You'll have to make some minor tweaks to the unformatted space to access it otherwise you'll have a lot of unaccessable disk space. I was very much a noob when I figured it all out so even those with limited experience can accomplish this. Just remember to clone the right drives otherwise it'll wipe all your saved data!!!

If you check my xb1 power brick disassembly guide I have a photo of mine which clearly shows the fan info. Just search xbox one power brick disassembly on ifixit. I hope this helps you find what you Update (08/24/2019): Replacement found $10+ shipping. This was just a very quick search and only checked 2 posts on amazon. Maybe possible to find it cheaper elsewhere so you'll have to do some online browsing. Happy gaming! https://www.amazon.com/AB5512HX-G00-DC12V-Blower-Server-Cooling/dp/B076P4QC8J/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_...-3910831-2571411?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076P4QC8...-03f5-4c54-9847-64e4ceba6d26&pd_rd_w=stSzq&pd_rd_wg=GLvG...-7a9d-4b3c-a348-2a9013d0a926&pf_rd_r=S1MKEQ5P45K75H4144F...

Recently I made an attempt at repairing a GG with a busted screen. Swapped it with another original screen but come to find it too had damage once I got it soldered to the board. No matter how much I cleaned the solder points on the ribbon cable I couldn't get all of them to solder in place. I decided to keep fiddling with it as I didn’t have anything to loose as both screens were damaged so I tried a few things to see what would result. On several occasions I was able to correct the thirds issue on the screen by reflowing solder points on the pcb where the ribbon cable connects. My colclusion is that various solder joints for whatever reason are "loose", not soldered properly, maybe even in the process of losing its connection. This can be a risky process as you may not get every connection soldered again without taking the entire screen off and removing the old solder and applying new to the motherboard. If you attempt it I suggest using a metal spudger to hold the ribbon cable down on the leads that...

I went ahead and decoded the rest of the missing info. To the best of my knowledge this is correct. If you see any please let me know so I can revise

Transistor chips in order from Q3-Q11

If it's very thin and small circumference it goes between the antenna and swivel. There may be 2 of them.

Hey Robby,

I’m sorry to hear the fan isn’t working when plugged into the Xbox one psu! A voltage reading of .3v would indicate a shorted or dead component somewhere before the fan input. If I were in your shoes I’d follow the traces from the fan plug and test every component possible in diode mode along the way. Unfortunately this may require full disassembly by removing the metal shielding on the bottom of the supply which I failed to add to this guide. If you have a microscope or hand magnifier check to make sure no connections are bridged. If you preformed any solder work double check everything you did. I’m sorry I don’t have a definitive answer but I really hope you get it figured out!

Thanks for the awesome comment! I'm glad my guide helped you get your PSU clean and back in the game

Is it a T10 or T10 security bit? Security bit has a hole in the middle

I'm here to serve :) glad you got it

If plugging in the system trips the power supply, there's no white/orange light, this could be a sign of damage on the motherboard itself and not the psu. I had a similar issue, with a known working psu, and connecting to my system would trip my supply too. Mine had a short to ground, believed to be on the main chip itself, which is why it kills the supply. Ultimately I had to buy a replacement paired motherboard/bluray pcb on ebay.

My first suggestion would be to test the mosfets on your power rail.

https://youtu.be/HEceb1Qxyec

Power problems with the xbox one often stem from mosfet issues. It could be something else however.

This link may help your situation

https://youtu.be/HEceb1Qxyec

It's hard to say without poking around with a multimeter. Possibly one or several capacitors died. The benefit is you know it's localized to the psu so take it apart and take a look around. If you see anything noticeably damaged then you can pinpoint it

I hate to say it but it probably can't be reattached. Your best bet would likely be to apply some kaptom tape on the ribbon cable and connector which will hopefully hold the ribbon cable in place.

That's a bold claim seeing as 28 others have marked that they have successfully followed these steps. 75k have viewed this page and while some can't get it to work, none have made the claim this is fake. If it was I'm quite sure ifixit would remove my post.