Navy Vet 2015

Does anyone know what chips reside at Q3 and Q7 on the main Game Gear PCB? Leaky capacitors corroded Q3 and Q7 has already...

I have a GG that has a funky screen issue. The system works fine but my screen is split into thirds. I believe this to be...

Hey everyone. I'm attempting to restore my old game gear. When I opened the system it became instantly clear as to why it...

My gamegear is having issues and I'm not sure what needs to be replaced so I was hoping someone here might be able to...

If you haven't seen it already, full disassembly instructuons here Xbox One Power Brick (Day One Edition) Disassembly

Are your devices plugged into a surge protector or a power strip? Surge will be bulky and power strip a thin bar with outlets. If it took a lightning surge without surge protection it's going to be VERY difficult to identify the problem unless you've got professional training in electronic repair. If there wasn't surge protection you're “lucky" it even powers on at all to attempt to fix it. Unless you have pro skills I only see 2 options, 1 take it to a pro 2 replace the entire system. Unfortunately either way you pay out of pocket. New console would probably be your best bet. Even if a professional gets it working there's 0 guarantee that other parts won't soon follow suit of the original damaged components. If other parts took damage but not enough to fry them than providing full power to the system will only compromise them. Sorry I can't offer better advice

I didn't even know a 1000tb drive existed! Anyway, one nice thing about the xb1 console is that the hdd isn't locked or married the the motherboard anymore which means you can swap drives in and out as you please but they must be formatted in NTFS. If your xb1s hdd works then you can clone it using parted magic or another patrition program. Parted magic was the only one I could get to clone my 500gb to 2tb and it's pretty straight forward. What you'll need to do first is format that big ass drive of yours in ntfs, connect both drives to your pc and within parted magic clone the drive. You'll have to make some minor tweaks to the unformatted space to access it otherwise you'll have a lot of unaccessable disk space. I was very much a noob when I figured it all out so even those with limited experience can accomplish this. Just remember to clone the right drives otherwise it'll wipe all your saved data!!!

If you check my xb1 power brick disassembly guide I have a photo of mine which clearly shows the fan info. Just search xbox one power brick disassembly on ifixit. I hope this helps you find what you Update (08/24/2019): Replacement found $10+ shipping. This was just a very quick search and only checked 2 posts on amazon. Maybe possible to find it cheaper elsewhere so you'll have to do some online browsing. Happy gaming! https://www.amazon.com/AB5512HX-G00-DC12V-Blower-Server-Cooling/dp/B076P4QC8J/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_...-3910831-2571411?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076P4QC8...-03f5-4c54-9847-64e4ceba6d26&pd_rd_w=stSzq&pd_rd_wg=GLvG...-7a9d-4b3c-a348-2a9013d0a926&pf_rd_r=S1MKEQ5P45K75H4144F...

Recently I made an attempt at repairing a GG with a busted screen. Swapped it with another original screen but come to find it too had damage once I got it soldered to the board. No matter how much I cleaned the solder points on the ribbon cable I couldn't get all of them to solder in place. I decided to keep fiddling with it as I didn’t have anything to loose as both screens were damaged so I tried a few things to see what would result. On several occasions I was able to correct the thirds issue on the screen by reflowing solder points on the pcb where the ribbon cable connects. My colclusion is that various solder joints for whatever reason are "loose", not soldered properly, maybe even in the process of losing its connection. This can be a risky process as you may not get every connection soldered again without taking the entire screen off and removing the old solder and applying new to the motherboard. If you attempt it I suggest using a metal spudger to hold the ribbon cable down on the leads that...

I went ahead and decoded the rest of the missing info. To the best of my knowledge this is correct. If you see any please let me know so I can revise

Transistor chips in order from Q3-Q11

That's a bold claim seeing as 28 others have marked that they have successfully followed these steps. 75k have viewed this page and while some can't get it to work, none have made the claim this is fake. If it was I'm quite sure ifixit would remove my post.

I'm afraid I haven't had this issue. Unsure what might have caused this. Have you attempted to open and investigate the problem?

Then go find a replacement. You've got higher priorities before preforming this

Awesome! Happy to help :)

Hit it with a can of air duster. If further cleaning is required apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip and gently clean the lens. I hope this helps.

That sucks..

That sucks..

If you unplug and replug does it turn on immediately? This almost sounds like a overheating issue.

It sounds like your causing a short within the system when you plug in a USB powered device which would explain why it shuts down after plugin. If this is in fact the case I don’t believe cleaning the brick would be beneficial. Start with the simple stuff first. Blow out the USB ports on the console and devices you wish to plug in. If this doesn’t resolve it then I’d recommend opening the system, paying particular close attention to the USB ports. If a wire or solder contact has gotten loose then solder will need to be applied. It’s quite possible there’s something wrong with the systems USB port itself and simply needs to be replaced.

@ That guy Heist In your case your brick sounds like it just needs a replaced capacitor. This is an easy task even if you don’t have much solder experience. If left in place it may eventually burst and leak fluid on the board which can corrode the PCB. Check for markings on the side of the swollen cap so you know what to replace it with. If your cap has already began to leak take a Q-tip and a little vinegar to the leakage. This will neutralize the acidity. Often an entire device is replaced when only a .25 cent part is all that’s required to return to normal function. Hopefully this helps.