Andrew Fillhart

Here's the whole story about my question that hopefully someone can answer. This blue 3DS I've been working on will turn...

I just recently got in two game boy advance units (AGB-001) from Japan and off eBay. Both units will not power on and I've...

I bought a Wii off eBay with the idea to fix is up and sell it. There was no description as to what was wrong with it and...

I've got a kindle fire D01400 that I've replaced the charge port on. The port had the common problem of falling away from...

If it powers on then turns off immediately, it's one of two items, either: A) the lower LCD is shot or B) the upper LCD and/or ribbon is broken/torn. Luckily, being a DS Lite, they're both easy to replace. Those two items are your best bet to get it turned on again. Follow this guide to get at either upper or lower LCD: Nintendo DS Lite Upper LCD Replacement

Using a front light mod will drain the batteries a little more quickly than without it. It's a small compromise in order to play day & night without a light source to reflect off of. A backlight mod is much better but more expensive to deal with. As long as the front or back light mods are installed correctly, there will be no damage to the device. This is beside any areas you may need to cut on the plastic shell to get ribbons or wires to sit correctly. Check out some videos on YouTube to get a better idea of modding them. Check out "This Does Not Compute" on YouTube for a front light mod tutorial.

Sounds as though you've got a bad battery fuse (charging light issue) and a small cut in one of the three ribbons that come from the top portion to the bottom portion in the hinge (popping sound). The cut ribbon is a common problem and can be replaced but is a bit difficult, requiring some patience. Follow this guide to fix that problem: Nintendo 3DS Speaker Assembly Replacement This guide is for the older 3DS but should be sufficient to help you replace the speaker ribbon (or whichever ribbon is damaged). The charging light issue may be a bit more difficult to figure out. Check your charging port to make sure it's soldered to the board properly. Locate the 2 fuses and ensure they're still working with a multimeter on continuity mode and ensure your battery is good. I hope these help and good luck fixing it.

Have you tried cleaning out the game or cartridge slot with some rubbing alcohol? If not, get a cotton swab, soak it in rubbing alcohol and then clean out the pins of the game. Use a good amount on the game then insert it into game slot a few times to clean off the internal pins. You can also clean off the SP pins with some 600+ wet/dry sand paper and gentle sand them a bit. When you've finished sanding, make sure to clean with rubbing alcohol to remove any dust/particles. This will also remove any difficult grim on them. Try this out and report back if either of those 2 suggestions work.

So a couple things come to mind with this problem. (1) Have you checked the brightness levels of the device. It may be a simple issue that someone turned it down before hand. Check in the settings to see where it's at. (2) Someone may have gone into the device before you and did not seat the ribbon correctly. You can go in and try to seat the ribbon again. When opened, the ribbons will bein the upper right section of the device. Just be careful with those connectors as they're extremely tiny and delicate. (3) There may be a small knick in the ribbon that's about to go. If that's the case, you'll need to replace the entire upper LCD. If that's the case, follow this guide: Nintendo 3DS Upper LCD Replacement Exchanging the backlight is not impossible but you'd just have an easier time replacing the entire LCD than trying to remove the metal housing, carefully removing the LCD and then the backlight. It's more trouble than it's worth.

There could be a series of problems with this issue you're reporting. Since it's a knock off controller it could be: (1) Damage to the PCB during manufacturing. (2) A bad button indicator. (3) Some kind of liquid making a crossed connection. Get a tri-wing driver, open up the device and inspect it. Clean up the area with rubbing alcohol, inspect the button and the pad it rests on and look over the cuircit board to see if there are broken traces or other signs of damage. If you're having any issues determining the problem. Take a few pictures and add them to this post to see if there is anything you may have overlooked. Hopefully, we can get this controller working properly again. Good luck!

From a bit of quick research, it appears that it should work fine. Just make sure that your pin connectors line up. Beyond that, it looks like it'll be okay to swap them out. Best practice would be to install the new thumbstick and before closing it up, test out the controller to ensure that the new thumbstick reacts properly to the game.

If your Nintendo Wii Remote will not turn on, use this Nintendo Wii Remote Won’t Turn On problem page for possible causes and solutions. My best suggestion would be to open the controller up and inspect for any corrosion or water damage. From the sounds of it, this is probably the case. If the inspection doesn't come up with any leads then the only other suggestion I could make is replacing it with a used one off eBay. They're very cheap now and it's the most economical move to save time and/or money. Good luck.

This appears to be some kind of water damage to the logic board(s) since everything is not registering input. Best thing to start with is to open the device and see if there is any kind of residue or dried water damage on any of the boards. I would suggest following this guid: Remplacement de l'écran LCD du Wii U GamePad to get at all of boards in the device to inspect them. From there, the next best solution would be buying a busted pad off eBay and swapping out the boards or seeing if there are replacement boards for a reasonable price. If any of this information helped, please rate it and good luck troubleshooting your Wii U pad.

You can probably do one of a couple things here: (1) Start by using a fine grit, wet/dry sand paper (about 600+) and sand off the corrosion. (2) Disassemble the controller and get to the battery terminal. Remove it (desoldering or other means) and soak it in white distilled vinegar. Brush it down to remove any of that blue corrosion and then soak it in rubbing alcohol and clean it off. Solder it back on and see if it works. (3) Purchase a busted controler off eBay and replace that particlar piece with the one you got off eBay. You may need to desolder it and put it onto the new one. (4) Finally, if the corrosion has affected the board. Getting a busted controller off eBay and replacing the entire board may be your final option. Without pictures of the actual damage, these are the best options I can suggest to get the device running again. Let us know if any of these suggestions work and please rate my answer if it helped solve your problem. Good luck!