SparkWorx

While I can’t tell from that documentation or anything else I saw if the case will go back together without adhesive of some sort, I do think I found a battery replacement for that keyboard: https://www.estrybattery.com/products/ba...-for-logitech-ultratin-keyboard-cover-y-r0032-533-000070-l-n-1212?variant=32036689969252&currency=USD...-2021-09-28&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_ca...-LBhDQARIsAO0a6aIViqODUpU8V-aePA5CCYSBv3GIy8_Ii-CHuvaUIDO7WvS4SuubGWUaAkjMEALw_wcB I have never used this vendor and can’t speak to their quality, I just found what I could for a replacement battery. That keyboard model, Y-R0032, appears to be the correct keyboard from my searches but I’m unsure if it’s specifically for your generation of keyboard. Please let me know how it works out in the end. Best of luck.

While normally I would say that those three spots, or “smudges”, on the bottom of the screen appear to look exactly like some I have seen before caused by wear and/or excessive pressure against a specific spot, it looks like multiple others have reported spots in approximately that area on the Surface Pro 5th, 6th, and 7th gen: A light shadow on bottom of screen during system boot, is it normal? This makes leads me to potentially the same conclusion as they came to - that it may be a known, but not owned by Microsoft, issue caused by design which puts too much pressure over time on that area of the LCD, causing those pressure points/damage to show. I would appreciate a second opinion from another though. Best of luck.

Unfortunately, we would need further information to help here as there could be a lot that’s going on. Are you using WiFi or a hardline/Ethernet cable? If your internet browser is not working, how are you confirming you have internet connection - can you reach the internet and visit multiple sites/videos/pages beyond a home page successfully? If not, you likely may not be connected to internet. Perhaps you are on WiFi, you have connection to the device producing the signal, but that WiFi router or Access Point itself has no internet connection although it’s physically on? We need a lot more information to assist, apologies.

While I haven’t seen that exact issue before, the appearance and that you can see your mouse faintly in the background makes me immediately suspect the LCD failed. I would first confirm with certainty it is not covered by warranty and if so, use it while you still could: https://us.msi.com/support If that is not possible, it’s likely the LCD is dead and I’m unsure you will be able to locate replacement parts anywhere for the internal parts of a specific monitor. If anyone has a source, PLEASE let me know as I have no idea where to find such. Troubleshooting: To confirm the issue is the monitor itself, first please try disconnecting and reconnecting the cable between the monitor and PC as well as rebooting the PC real quick. I would then try testing a different cable between the PC and monitor. If the display is entirely normal with both cables and the other monitor, the issue is almost certainly the monitor itself. While I always advocate repair first, up-cycling is near second and with respect to your...

If this TV is only a few months old, I would absolutely get in contact with the manufacturer as they appear to have a 1-year warranty and any physical repair/troubleshooting will likely void that. https://www.hisense-usa.com/television-1-year-warranty appears to be their warranty section. If it was outside that period of time or the warranty would not cover it, I would recommend locating the specific model, likely found in a tag or sticker on the back or bottom of the TV. Once you have that, I would then looking up power-button or power-LED errors for that specific model at what I think is the correct spot here: https://www.hisense-usa.com/support That will likely narrow it down significantly or tell you exactly what the specific issue is. Best of luck.

While initially I want to say that swapping boards would cause all kinds of issue and/or cause havoc, the logic boards appear physically just about the same and half the component list per iFixIt is the same….that said I cannot advise even attempting this as while I’m totally curious if it would work personally, professionally I would be seriously concerned of it bricking the device. Below are the logic boards from both the Retina MacBook 2016 and 2017 from iFixIt’s teardowns: Retina MacBook 2017 Teardown (Step 6) Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown (Step 9) If you’re truly devoted to that 2017 donor, and I could understand to a degree due to the surprising price of Apple replacement parts, I would first wonder if the screen and keyboard fit and work within the older 2016. I would honestly be surprised it both didn’t have some physical difference preventing it or if the hardware simply didn’t work with the 2016 drivers. Apple hardware isn’t my specialty and something like this is a question only a very...

As others have mentioned, I would confirm that the computer is still on and operating normally while unplugged by hooking it up to an external monitor and confirming the image is showing there normally, even if the screen is dark on the monitor itself. Per resources, it seems a common issue is that your screen brightness overall or the brightness of the unplugged mode is likely too dark. This post from another forum (https://superuser.com/questions/666410/l...-screen-turns-off-on-removing-power-cord) mentions a very similar issue with another Asus laptop and the resolution was to edit the Power Options within Control Panel (Windows Button > Control Panel > Power Options > Change Plan Settings for desired plan > Change Advanced Power Settings > Display > Display Brightness and ensure you are editing the option for unplugged. If that doesn’t work, there MAY be a driver issue with the display, Asus support for the R554LA appears to be here: (https://www.asus.com/us/supportonly/R554...) but while relatively...

While I wouldn’t be able to troubleshoot it without staring at and/or tinkering with the device itself, for the Chef’s Choice M120 it looks like they have a few OEM parts here: https://chefschoice.com/collections/repl...-parts/120 but the pickings for parts or repair is quite limited. Best of luck.

Are both of the machines you tested with desktop towers? While I haven’t encountered this personally, from what I can find the behavior can be caused by the electronic “noise” of all the parts inside your PC, degrading the quality of the signal from your USB WiFi dongle to your mouse. While it wouldn’t explain the physical pressing down on the mouse seeming to resolve the issue, a USB extender to get the dongle at least a couple inches or more away from the tower itself could help. If the physical pushing on the mouse is actually making a difference, I would try changing the surface you use the mouse on with a different mouse pad, or adding one if you’re not currently using one. That and I would turn off the mouse to turn off the laser and carefully clean the portion of the mouse underneath where the laser is emitted. Please let me know how those go.

Without checking guides I’m almost guarantee those are speakers going off material and shape.

Appreciate the guide, this was an absolute pain to replace and I do NOT care for removing a battery as easy to damage as these when they’re mounted with such an obscene amount of adhesive. This guide allowed me to do so regardless, thanks.

Thank you for the guide, this in combination with the battery replacement was tied for the most finicky, difficult part replacement I’ve ever had to do for a client in the (admittedly short) 1.5 years I’ve been in IT. Well written and quality graphics.

Used this to replace a client’s battery before teaching myself to factory reset it and get it setup again for their partner. Appreciate the well-written guide with solid graphics. Thank you.