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The Kenmore 90 Series is a washing machine manufactured by Kenmore.

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know lid switch is good as it was first replaced part

Have the same problem, know lid switch is good as it was first replaced part and original was testing questionable. Installed new one and still nothing no noise or anything even at different settings. Is the water level sensor the next logical change? Or is there a way to test it?

Update (11/06/23)

I checked the pump, it is clear, changed the knob to multiple positions but only get water to flow out. I will take apart again and inspect further for wires on the motor or capacitor. There is no noise from motor at all, there is no attempt to do anything, I have unplugged and plugged back in, I will have the model number this afternoon after I leave work. I did not see a thermal anywhere and if that was the case the machine being down for two days should clear the thermal unless it’s a manual reset I am missing or a thermal fuse and it is blown, I have replaced the coupler before so inspected that, what are some symptoms of the water level sensor failing and could that prevent it from spinning or draining for what ever reason?

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Hi @dustinlebla8279,

What is the model number of the washer?

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The model number is 110.20902990 serial number ck 1975114 type 111. I have replaced the lid switch with a brand new part and have depressed it with tool to be sure it was made, the switch has continuity so should be good, I have checked the pump and there is nothing clogging it, the motor is free and spins, the coupler is connected and I have replaced it once before so I am familiar with that. All of the connectors appear in good condition, the water level is currently low as I have drained the water out before proceeding.

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@dustinlebla8279 Hi again, as you are getting water in then I am saying the 120v power is ok. I do not have a wiring diagram so even though the wires are colored I could not tell you where to look for lost power. The motor is not only reversable but probably two speed so there are many wires to it from the timer. You say you checked the lid switch to see if it closes, so thinking this you must have a multi meter.

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The water level switch must be satisfied for the machine to agitate. So the level switch has to be closed from the pressure of the water pushing air to its diaphragm, as there are different levels on some machines the power has to go thru it and thru the lid switch to the timer motor and controller. Then to the motor. With the top of the washer laid back you should be able to follow the power thru from the hot wire to the controller. it is rare a motor is faulty as well as the controller. With the water coming up to the set level it waits for the lid switch to close and run the timer motor and operate the controller if it is pulled out. It is possible the tube from the water box has a hole in it and the water level switch remains open but then you would get water filling up over the tub.

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Some of these washer also has a pause setting that would stop things but I think this is about two minutes. Again it is an older washer and although most are made in the same factory all could have a bit of different cycle and control. I am at a loss on this one but with caution I would follow the power from the terminal where the main plug comes in and make sure the neutral, hot and ground look good then simple using the case frame look for 120v along the circuits down to the motor leads from the controller. All else would be water valves and water temperature which would not stop the motor. However be careful. I can not find a wiring diagram but there may be one glued to the inside surface of the covers.

Had to make a few posts as my comments were long

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Hi @dustinlebla8279

Can you hear if the cycle timer motor is operating? (supplier example only to show the part and the contact connecting details on the side).

If it not operating here is a wiring diagram for a Whirlpool timer, just to check that power is getting to the timer motor and thru the timer contacts, that may help. Note: This is either the same or very similar to what is used in your model, or I think it is. Unless marked otherwise, all the contacts shown in the diagram at the top of the page in the link, are the timer contacts

If it is faulty search online for WP3953248 (or 3953248) to find suppliers that suit you best.

Note: Do not attempt to open the timer to try and fix it as you will have cams and contacts everywhere. Besides which, even if there was a worn/faulty contact set or operating cam, there are no internal timer components replacement parts available anyway. You could try liberally spraying an electronic contact cleaner (examples 1 & 2), into any openings in the back of the timer, allow it sufficient time to dry and then check to see if the machine works OK. Do NOT use "standard" WD40 or similar products as they leave residues. Also do this with the power disconnected from the machine.

The tech sheet for your model is Whirlpool part # LIT3953819 and the wiring diagram is Whirlpool part # LIT3953250, but I've had no success locating downloads for either of them. You may have better luck.

As you have no doubt gathered by now, your model is basically a Whirlpool washer made for Kenmore as it is comprised solely of Whirlpool parts

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Ok so quick questions. So what is the best way to set it up to follow voltage. I want to try and chase it around the circuit but am curious if it will with the washer open, should I remove the lid switch and plug it in to activate it with the cover removed to ensure conditions to send voltage to the motor, also should I run the cycle with water only to allow it to fill verifying the pressure switch also? If I don’t take these steps I am not sure how I am supposed to follow voltage around.

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@dustinlebla8279

Can you hear if the cycle timer motor is operating?

If you operate the cycle timer you should get a voltage on one contact of the lid switch with the lid open but not the other. If you don't it's the timer or the wiring between the two.

Do you know how to safely test for lethal voltage?

If not don't do it. It isn't worth it.

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@jayeff yes I am an industrial maintenance tech and have been for years, I just like to ask people who have experience before I dive in especially with stuff I have not dealt with before, always better safe than sorry, I do not hear any noise coming from the timer area and I want to say it seems like that is the problem as no matter what it does not advance from adding water, even manually moving timer to next steps it’s like the contacts are not working inside the timer, thanks for the voltage to the lid switch, that should be an easy check, I really just wanted a way to make sure the motor is good before I wasted money on any other parts as the rest are all much more pricey and I don’t want to replace something on a hunch, I would rather find the problem, the voltage to the lid switch is solid next step thank you, that seems like it would help me verify the timer.

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@dustinlebla8279

If there's voltage at the lid switch (both contacts) when lid is closed, then check if there's voltage at the timer motor terminal. Other terminal of timer motor should be the Neutral wire. (white wire)

If there is and you can't hear it working, you could always disconnect the power to the machine and use an Ohmmeter to check if the timer motor winding is OK

If there is voltage but if the timer not operating then there should also be voltage at the drive motor terminal once the washer has stopped filling i.e. water level pressure switch has operated.

If not its either the timer or the wiring

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Ok so while checking just now I verified voltage to the lid switch, for giggles I took the hose off for the pressure switch and blew into it, heard the switch change 3 or 4 times plugged it back in and tried the spin and she started, so my question is could it just have been the pressure switch was stuck? And me blowing in it got it free?, now I hear noise from both the timer motor I did not hear before and I saw the motor spin so that shows me the motor is fine and the lid switch is fine, anyone have any intermittent issues similar that developed into a full failure or is it just acting up and I got lucky it happened to spin?

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Dustin Leblanc sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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