Utilisez ce tutoriel pour installer un second disque dur SATA 2,5" dans votre iMac 21,5". Le kit est seulement compatible avec les modèles EMC 2428 mi-2011.

  1. Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface propre et douce.
    • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface propre et douce.

    • Veillez à éliminer la poussière et les débris sur la surface de travail afin de ne pas rayer la vitre de l'écran de l'iMac. Nous vous recommandons de placer un torchon entre l'iMac et la surface de travail.

    • Desserrez les trois vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée en dessous de votre iMac.

    • Les trois vis captives restent intégrées à la trappe d'accès.

    • Retirez la trappe d'accès.

    Before beginning unplug your iMac.

    Henry Barnett - Réponse

    The screws are not phillips #1 as implied above. My phillips#2 bit fit.

    John McWilliams - Réponse

    Yes phillips #2 is the correct Bit

    Heath - Réponse

  2. Libérez la languette en plastique noire de l'emplacement de la RAM.
    • Libérez la languette en plastique noire de l'emplacement de la RAM.

    • Tirez sur la languette en plastique en dessous de votre iMac pour éjecter le(s) module(s) de ce côté-ci du compartiment de la RAM.

    • Vous devrez peut-être exercer une certaine force.

    It is far harder than I thought you have to pull REALLY hard and then there will be a little click and than you can gently pull out the RAM.

    Alison Newton - Réponse

    Just FYI you can install 32GB’s of RAM in this machine. I have been using it this way for over 2 years now.

    Heath - Réponse

    • Faites glisser le ou les anciens modules de RAM hors de leurs emplacements dans le compartiment de la RAM et mettez-les de côté.

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    • Répétez les étapes précédentes pour retirer le(s) module(s) de RAM de l'autre côté du compartiment de la RAM.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Lorsque vous installez de nouveaux modules de RAM, il est important de les orienter correctement.

    • Veillez à ce que la petite encoche sur chaque module de RAM (illustré dans la première photographie) coïncide avec la partie en saillie sur chaque emplacement de RAM (illustrée dans la deuxième photographie).

    • Votre iMac possède quatre emplacements de RAM. Veillez à maintenir chaque module de RAM à l'horizontale lorsque vous l'insérez dans son emplacement. Cela permet d'éviter qu'un module se coince entre deux emplacements contigus.

    • Une fois les nouveaux modules de RAM orientés correctement, insérez-les complètement dans l'iMac avec douceur et utilisez vos pouces pour les enclencher en position.

    When reinstalling RAM in this machine or any iMac with upgradable RAM slots push hard to get them to go in (Apple really did make this one harder than it needed to be). If you don't push hard it won't go in and your computer won't work. (trust me on this learned the hard way)

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    I am having trouble with bottom 2 slots. As I get beeping sounds when using them. When removed it boots properly. I tried & tried to push the 2 , 2GB ram modules into the bottom slots BUT all get is beeping. Guess I have to settle for 4GB Rather than 8 unless someone has a suggestion.

    Doug - Réponse

    • Avant de commencer, débranchez votre iMac et posez-le sur une surface plane, comme illustré.

    • Collez une ventouse sur chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre.

    • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

    • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - Réponse

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Réponse

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - Réponse

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit:

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - Réponse

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Réponse

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Réponse

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - Réponse

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Réponse

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Réponse

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Réponse

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - Réponse

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Réponse

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Réponse

    • Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.

    • Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté.

    • Lors de la réinstallation, veillez à nettoyer soigneusement l'intérieur de la vitre et la face avant de l'écran LCD, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Réponse

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 8 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    • Les deux dernières photographies illustrent chaque côté de l'écran.

    The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.

    seancourtney - Réponse

    I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.

    josh -

    +1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

    osienna - Réponse

    Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

    There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

    Udo - Réponse

    Les vis sont inévitablement aimantées

    Gui - Réponse

    • Soulevez légèrement le bord supérieur de l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur.

    • Ne le soulevez pas trop. L'écran est en effet relié à la carte mère par plusieurs câbles.

    You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

    kctipton - Réponse

    Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

    osienna - Réponse

    The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.

    All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.

    The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).

    I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.

    Udo - Réponse

    If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.

    Danois -

    “Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.

    kyoder11 -

    • Débranchez le câble de synchronisation verticale de sa prise sur la carte de rétro-éclairage, près de l'angle supérieur gauche de l'iMac.

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    • Faites pivoter l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur, suffisamment pour débrancher le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    • Débranchez le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED en appuyant sur le mécanisme de verrouillage tout en tirant le connecteur hors de sa prise (vers le bord inférieur de l'iMac).

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    • Saisissez la languette d'extraction en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et tournez-la vers le haut.

    • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant droit.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.

    Ben Bauermeister - Réponse

    Me too — ditto that.

    Roger Buttermore - —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.

    Roger Buttermore -

    The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

    Isaac Vande Zande - Réponse

    I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

    Philip Nelson - Réponse

    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du capteur thermique LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

    frank - Réponse

    The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.

    JRBv3 - Réponse

    I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.

    JRBv3 -

    • Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier extérieur, en faisant attention aux câbles qui peuvent se coincer.

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    • À partir de cette étape, la réparation sera plus facile si vous tournez l'ordinateur de manière à ce que le bas soit placé directement devant vous.

      • Retirez les quatre vis suivantes :

      • Une vis Torx T10 9,3 mm avec une tête large.

      • Trois vis Torx T10 9,3 mm avec une tête de taille normale.

    In my case the red screw was on the lower left side near the power-data cable!

    sefw4t2efwef - Réponse

    Same here. There are different versions delivered

    Tai - Réponse

    • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

    No need to remove the thermal sensor connector from the motherboard - refer to Step 17 to remove the sensor from the optical drive instead

    osienna - Réponse

    • Soulevez le bord intérieur du lecteur optique et dégagez son connecteur du cadre du processeur graphique (GPU) attaché à la carte mère.

    • Avec précaution, libérez le lecteur optique des broches de montage sur le côté droit du boîtier extérieur afin de dégager un espace suffisant pour débrancher le câble du lecteur.

    • Laissez pendre le lecteur optique pendant que vous dégagez le connecteur du capteur thermique de l'arrière du dissipateur thermique du processeur graphique (GPU).

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    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du lecteur optique de celui-ci.

    • Retirez le lecteur optique de l'iMac.

    I have already installed the second SSD drive, but due to the size of the drive I need to change it with another SSHD 1 TB drive. Am I right that I have to follow the instructions up to Step 18? Because The SSD is already behind the optical drive, so what I need to do is remove it and install the new SSHD drive and put everything back again. Please confirm.

    showmak - Réponse

    • Retirez la vis Torx T10 13 mm par laquelle le ventilateur du lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

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    • Tirez sur le ventilateur du lecteur optique pour le libérer des broches fixées au boîtier extérieur.

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    • Débranchez le connecteur du ventilateur du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Retirez le ventilateur du lecteur optique de l'iMac.

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    • Au cours de cette procédure, vous allez déconnecter les câbles suivants :

      • Carte SD

      • Haut-parleur droit/gauche et microphone

      • Port audio

      • Antenne Wi-Fi

      • Capteur de température droit, Bluetooth/capteur de lumière ambiante/caméra/température gauche et ventilateur du disque dur

      • Ventilateur de l'UC/température ambiante et bouton de mise sous/hors tension

      • Capteur infrarouge

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    • Débranchez le câble de la carte SD de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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    • Débranchez les câbles du microphone, du haut-parleur gauche et du haut-parleur droit en tirant leurs connecteurs vers le côté droit de l'iMac.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur les trois connecteurs d'antenne AirPort pour les débrancher de leurs prises sur la carte AirPort.

    • Lors de la réinstallation, raccordez le câble sans rayures à la prise marquée CH0, le câble avec une rayure à la prise CH1 et le câble avec deux rayures à la prise CH2.

    For me it was originally the reverse order. No stripes for ch2, one for ch1 and two for ch0

    anonymous 9512 - Réponse

    As another user already posted, cables can be in the reverse order as depicted on the guide. Pay attention before disconnecting them.


    Vicente Aguilar - Réponse

    It was reversed for me as well. Be sure to verify your own system as you take it apart

    frank - Réponse

    To simplify this and since there seems to be some variable set ups, take a digital picture of the way it is before following this step so that you can put it back the way it was. (If no digicam then draw yourself a note with paper and pen).

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Also for me reversed.

    davidevismara - Réponse

    Also reversed for mi

    Enoc Sanz Ablanedo - Réponse

    • Tirez le connecteur du ventilateur du disque dur vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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    • À l'aide des ongles de vos pouces, poussez chaque côté du connecteur Bluetooth/capteur de lumière ambiante/caméra/température gauche vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac et sortez-le de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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    • À l'aide des ongles de vos pouces, poussez le connecteur du capteur de température droit vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac et débranchez-le de sa prise.

    Watch out the plastic around the connectors easily breaks. Mine did not sure what to do and what the implication end up being yet.

    Nicolai - Réponse

    • Tirez le connecteur du ventilateur de l'UC/du capteur de température ambiante vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac et sortez-le de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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    • Tirez le connecteur du bouton de mise sous/hors tension vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    My connector came of the wire ends. Now it’s fifty fifty I have it on right.

    Heath - Réponse

    • À l'aide des ongles de vos pouces, poussez le connecteur du capteur infrarouge vers le bord supérieur de l'iMac et sortez-le de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Sortez la carte du capteur infrarouge de derrière la face avant du boîtier extérieur.

    • Retirez le capteur infrarouge et mettez-le de côté.

    For some reason this connector was refusing to come out. I ended up just removing the IR sensor board, putting it in a tiny ziploc bag to protect the logic board and sensor and working around it. No worries at all.

    Steven Kelly - Réponse

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble du port audio vers le bord gauche de l'iMac pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

    • Ne tirez pas le câble vers vous (dans la direction opposée à la face avant de la carte mère) lorsque vous le débranchez.

    • Décollez le câble du port audio de la face avant de la carte mère et laissez-le pendre comme indiqué dans la seconde photographie.

    Be careful not to kink the audio cable, and take note of it’s positioning for when you put it back in

    tjthomas292 - Réponse

    • Retirez les sept vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis Torx T10 7 mm.

      • Une vis Torx T10 30 mm

      • Deux vis Torx T10 25 mm.

      • Deux vis Torx T10 21 mm.

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    • Retirez les quatre vis suivantes :

      • Une vis Torx T10 9,3 mm à gros filetage

      • Une vis Torx T10 25 mm à gros filetage

      • Deux vis 22 mm à filetage fin

    • Soulevez la carte d'alimentation hors du boîtier en la tenant par les angles supérieur droit et inférieur gauche pour dégager les tiges de montage.

    There was no need to remove the power supply.

    kyoder11 - Réponse

    I agree with kyoder11, no need to remove the power supply. But pay attention to not damage it when pull the logic board.

    Luca Waldner - Réponse

    • Soulevez délicatement la carte d'alimentation hors du boîtier extérieur et faites-la pivoter pour exposer le dispositif de verrouillage du câble comme indiqué, en faisant attention aux câbles de sortie CC et d'entrée CA, toujours raccordés à l'iMac.

    • Débranchez le câble de sortie CC en appuyant sur le mécanisme de verrouillage du connecteur tout en tirant sur le connecteur pour le sortir de la prise sur la carte d'alimentation.

    • Une fois le connecteur d'entrée CC libéré de la prise, retirez-le de la carte d'alimentation.

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    • Débranchez le câble d'entrée CA en appuyant sur le mécanisme de verrouillage tout en tirant sur le connecteur de la prise.

    • Retirez la carte d'alimentation du boîtier extérieur.

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    • Retirez la paroi en plastique installée juste à droite de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    I didn’t need to remove this.

    kyoder11 - Réponse

    • Tirez légèrement sur la carte mère pour la sortir de l'arrière du boîtier extérieur, puis soulevez-la pour dégager la partie inférieure de la face avant.

    Be careful when balancing the mother board here, you can damage the RAM bays if not careful. (Had a friend do this, good by motherboard and iMac.) Just be careful and aware of how you have it sitting.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Before you lift the logic board, remove the infra-red receiver ( have a look at the logic board replacement guide )! It will make your life a lot easier.

    Like stated also in the video, it's easier if you put the iMac on its foot again.

    sefw4t2efwef - Réponse

    This was a great tip. Removing the IR made my life easier when putting the board back in place.

    fansntt -

    ABSOLUTELY! Board seemed stuck half way out. Found a way to remove the IR sensor assembly, and the rest seems like cake.

    Carl - Réponse

    Yes you should definitely remove the IR board. Which is why step 31 tells you to do so :P

    John M - Réponse

    • Au cours des prochaines étapes, vous tiendrez la carte mère légèrement hors du boîtier extérieur pendant que vous connecterez les câbles du nouveau disque dur inclus avec le kit Dual Hard Drive.

    • Lors de la connexion des câbles, n'exercez pas une force excessive sur l'un des câbles par lesquels la carte mère est reliée au boîtier extérieur.

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    • Commencez par repérer le petit connecteur sur le câble d'alimentation du SSD.


    it's possible to use a generic power cable like this???

    I thing is more simply.

    it's possible???

    than you

    Antonio - Réponse

    • Branchez la petite fiche du câble d'alimentation SATA sur la prise qui porte l'étiquette SSD Power (Alimentation SSD) sur la carte mère.

    • La prise est située juste au-dessous du dissipateur thermique du processeur graphique (GPU).

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    • Ensuite, repérez le connecteur 90º à l'une des extrémités du câble de données SATA.

    • La couleur de votre câble de données SATA peut différer de celle du câble illustré ici.

    Thanks for great tutorial, will non-angled data cable fit as well ?

    HowlinWolf - Réponse

    • Branchez le connecteur 90º du câble de données SATA sur sa prise sur la carte, à côté du connecteur d'alimentation SATA.

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    • Une fois les deux câbles SATA raccordés, la carte mère doit ressembler à celle illustrée dans la photographie.

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    • Ensuite, tout en maintenant les câbles du nouveau disque dur contre le dissipateur thermique du processeur graphique (GPU), rabaissez le bord inférieur de la carte mère dans le boîtier extérieur.

    • Lorsque vous remettez en place la carte mère, il est utile de fixer les nombreux connecteurs qui sont branchés sur cette dernière à l'aide d'une bande adhésive pour qu'ils ne se coincent pas sous la carte.

    • Avant de pousser la carte mère contre l'arrière du boîtier extérieur, faites passer les câbles du disque dur dans la gorge près du faisceau des câbles d'alimentation.

    • Lorsque vous placez la carte mère dans son emplacement, faites passer les câbles du disque dur dans la petite gorge découpée dans l'entretoise en plastique, près des ailettes du dissipateur thermique du processeur graphique (GPU).

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    • Au cours des prochaines étapes, vous allez installer votre nouveau disque dur dans le boîtier de votre iMac EMC 2428.

    • Le disque dur viendra se loger derrière le lecteur optique, dans l'espace encadré en rouge.

    Isn't there a way to fix the SSD by screws?

    kdanielalex - Réponse

    No. Its just flat aluminum. The adhesive pads will work well. You may even be able to use the picture hanging velcro strips by 3M that you can find any where (they now have ones with stronger adhesive). If using the velcro ones it would make it easier for removal later. I personally have not done it this way, but I think it would work. I just used the red ones they gave (i could find my box of the velcro ones).

    Robert Wacker -

    Wonderful info and explanations, as usual.

    Hope the answer to my question is not very obvious, but can a normal SATA 500GB be installed instead of a SSD drive. The reason being, appart from the cost difference, is that I currently have a PC Laptop that I'd like to "Recycle" into my iMac, meaning memory and HD. Potentially also my Windows 7 with Parallels. Currently have XP, it would be upgrade every way you see it.

    Many thanks

    Alejandro - Réponse

    • Pour fixer le nouveau disque dur dans votre iMac, vous devrez placer un morceau de bande adhésive double-face ultra-résistante dans les quatre coins de l'unité, sur le côté où se trouvent les connecteurs SATA.

    • Après avoir retiré la pellicule de protection d'un côté, collez les morceaux de bande adhésive dans les quatre coins du disque dur.

    They have crucial here pictured (we used crucial and it works phenomenal). Also Samsung has a great line of SSDs called EVO (we used it in our Macbook Pro and it works just as good if not better than crucial). {here is their website, Its a second option for ssd hard drives.

    Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 It is the easiest solution for this issue.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Hello Robert I have a question, I have an Imac 21.5 mid 2011 and I want to add a second ssd drive (Crucial or Samsung Evo) ....I want to know if the second port is Sata 2 (3Gb/s) or Sata 3 (6Gb/s)

    ??? Could you check the¨link velocity¨? Thank you Robert !!!

    Leonardo -

    • Branchez les connecteurs du câble de données et du câble d'alimentation SATA sur les prises correspondantes du nouveau disque dur.

    • Une fois le disque dur installé, les connecteurs SATA se trouveront près du dessus de l'iMac.

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    • Retirez la pellicule de protection de l'autre côté des morceaux de la bande adhésive et placez le disque dur à l'intérieur de l'iMac.

    • Introduisez avec précaution le disque dur dans la baie optique de l'iMac, le plus près possible du coin inférieur gauche.

      • Évitez de coller et décoller plusieurs fois de suite la bande, car l'adhésif risquerait de perdre de son adhérence.

    • Lorsque le disque dur est positionné correctement, appuyez fermement sur les côtés de l'unité pour assurer une bonne adhésion.

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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse, en commençant à l'Étape 33.

234 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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58 commentaires

It should be noted to anyone doing this that RAM should be removed first. When you get towards the end things go bad if your RAM is still in there and you start moving the mainboard around.

azkaban1 - Réponse

You are correct. I followed the ifixit guide on youtube and it was not mentioned to remove the RAMs. But in fact the RAMs should be removed in order to pull the logic board.

showmak -

Seconded ... remove ram first! Spent more time reinstalling main board than anything else.

Added bigger HDD as well as SSD. Buy HDD Fan Control to fix fan speed.

A curse on Jobs & Apple for making it this tedious to add SSD & HDD.

Cudos to ifixit!

tonybaczynski - Réponse

Did it, my imac is extreamly speedy now with the ssd compared with the origional hdd.

Tool me about two hours to do, had to have my brother help me when i was removing the logic board and screen.

Found that the logic board was extreamly hard to remove.

Good tip is to selotape the cables before removing / inserting the logic board as i traped my microphone connector underneath. Luckely i could reach it with a pair of tweesers.

Over all glad i did it.

garethvincenthall - Réponse

Can anybody explain why the PSU module needs to be removed (steps 34-37)? I saw a similar guide elsewhere and it skipped this completely. Is this not required? If so, that might explain why this guide says that to re-assemble do the reverse from step 33 and not 38 as expected!

markbart - Réponse

I can confirm that you do not need to remove the power supply to do this - you can safely skip these steps! Anyway, this install went well for me, not as scary as I thought it would be. You just need to be prepared, remain calm and keep track of all the screws!

markbart -

Having read this comment, I initially skipped the PSU removal steps. While removing the logic board was a bit difficult, putting it back in place seemed impossible until I figured one of the plastic walls (step 37, although it was the one on the other side) was getting in the way: some pieces have a diagonal cut from top to bottom and they have to fit together, and the diagonal shape forces one to be placed before the other (one on bottom, then the other on top, so to speak). I had to remove the PSU to be able to remove the plastic walls, get the logic board in place properly, and then put the plastic walls back "on top" of a piece attached to the PCB.

So while I guess it could be possible to skip the PSU removal steps, I found it easier to put everything back into place by removing it. YMMV, just keep it in mind, and you can always do as I did, skip the steps and do them afterwards if needed.

Vicente Aguilar -

How long is the Sata data cable?

Is a 10" too short for the job??

Help asap would be awesome!


Jordan Shababy - Réponse

The cable is a standard length, but I feel it was too long as it needed to be folded to fit. A 10 inch cable will be fine.

markbart -

Very helpful guide, easy to follow. Took me around an hour and a half to install an SSD.

For the record, instead of using them independently I configured them as a Fusion Drive. Works like a charm, more info here:

Vicente Aguilar - Réponse

The article you link to isn't describing a fusion drive. The whole areticle is a mistake. Read the comments over there...


this is a very helpful guide, I did it success!

86630529 - Réponse

Very helpful guide. I did it in 1 houre without removing the PSU.

Thank´s for the help!!!

Markus Unglert - Réponse

sorry if it's been asked already.

I was wondering, why not just connect DVD drives cable, i thought there is a power and same as SSd, SATA.

Soyib - Réponse

The optical drive SATA connection is only SATA II (3.0 Gb/s) so you won’t gain the full benefit of your SSD drive. In some cases the SSD drive won’t even work as its only a SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) drive Vs a dual speed supporting both.

Dan -

Be advice, I buy the kit and try. It cost me 800$ to repair it after. Yes, I broke the logic board!!!!

patrickfxdelage - Réponse

I was able to do this on my Mid 2011 iMac without too much difficulty. The actual removal of the glass is really easy as it's held by magnets so no need to worry about glue or anything like that.

frank - Réponse

Also, after you get your drive installed and try to create your own Fusion Drive volume, you'll need to make a bootable USB drive and boot from that by holding down Option on a boot. If you try to boot from the internal drive and then create the Fusion drive you'll get a "Error: -69879: Couldn't open disk" error which basically means the disk is in use. Of course, when you do this, all your data will be wiped so be sure to backup via Time Machine before you create the Fusion Drive!

frank - Réponse

Installation d'un SSD samsung 500go avec le kit d'installation Fixit sur iMac 21 mi-2011

L'installation s'est très bien passé. Ce n'est pas si difficile que cela même si c'est assez impressionnant au début.

L'accès au cablage du SATA (coté opposé de la carte mère) est délicate (avoir des petites mains c'est mieux).

La différence une fois l'OS installé sur le SSD est impressionnante... ce n'est plus la même machine!

renaultfrederic - Réponse

Couple more comments:

1. This is a really long, laborious process. To keep track of screws, I drew a little chart and taped them to a piece of paper.

2. Make sure when reinstalling the logic board that the RAM slots line up correctly. They didn't for me, so had to undo the whole thing.

3. When my Mac restarted, the fans ran at full speed. Thought I'd broken something. Turns out, just needed to do SCM reset (see Apple docs)

4. If I was going to do this again, I wouldn't. It's a huge pain -- very annoying project.

helrod3 - Réponse

I gave my iMac to a local Apple store. They offered to place the SSD for about 200 € … a lot of money but I thought it would be better, because they have done it not only once.

Unfortunately they called me and told me that the second SATA port must be broken because they couldn't get the SSD at work. Have you ever heard of such problems?

What do you think? Do I have to switch to a new logic board??

Stefan - Réponse

Thanks.. OWC has a much much better step-by-step video. Successfully added a 240G Crucial M500 disk.. created a fusion drive and it's beautiful!


- Plan well, clean surface, use anti-static band, be very very very careful and gentle

- Can use almost any “cheap” suction cups (like ones in car window shades)

- Ensure 6G SATA cable

- Power cable is unique (SD Power Cable 593-1296 922-9862) and can be bought from AliExpress:

- You’ll need Torx T10, T6 screw-driver bits

- Use tape to put cables in place when putting the logic board back

- Having someone to hold the logic board while putting in SSD cables can be useful

vagarwal - Réponse

Thanks man for the powercable Part number

peter94 -

Excellent guide! Easy to follow, step by step with great pictures that you can zoom in and go at your own pace - THANK-YOU, you've just added a few more years to my iMac!

Note: It was a bit of a pain undoing all those connections, and even more putting them all back, and kind of stressful having it all apart on my coffee table, but I did it! I put my new 240 PNY SSD drive from Best Buy (on sale for $109) in and also upgraded my old main HD to a 2TB SATA, not including the 16GB of RAM upgrade to perk things up, I used Disk Utility to shrink down my old 500GB to 240GB and did a restore on my new drive and boom, it boots up so dang fast I don't know what the heck just happened.

again, many thanks!!!

Oh yea, I also installed a free fan program called Macs Fan Control from crystalidea to help with some of the weird fan issues I was getting in Windows- plus they make it for both platforms.

Phil Tesone - Réponse

Completed this install today. I was kind of nervous, because I didn't want to screw up my Mac. Being really careful and meticulously keeping track of every single screw, I installed a 256GB Samsung 850 Pro and it works like a charm. I think I've messed up the ODD though. That one doesn't seem to be available anymore. The other thing is that my speakers didn't work anymore. While I had just arrived at the point where I was going to take the Mac apart again, I decided to check my settings. My iMac was sending sound to my external display, which doesn't have speakers. I'm not sure if I'm going to open it up again to try to fix the ODD. I never use it, but if I'm ever selling it, it should definitely work...

booyerik - Réponse

I did that upgrade last weekend, with help of my son in law. All ran right, no problem, and now my iMac is working very fast!! I put a SSD OCZ Vertex 460A 480GB under the optical drive. We take three hours to do it.

The most difficult step was step 10, just the first cable to disconnect. This cable have a very small conector and was a little hard to remove, but at the end all was fine.

This guide was extremely important to me, so I translated it to study carefully before start the upgrade. At the same way, the video was very important to show the correct way to do each step.

So, thank you very much for IFIXT team and the author, Andrew Bookholt.

Carlos Sgrillo, June 01, 2015 - from Porto Alegre, Brazil.

Carlos Sgrillo - Réponse

Hi Guys,

I have 2 original hdd cable (data and power) from a damaged imac. These two cable are long enough to add an ssd? maybe using a different path for the cables?

Paolo Spaziani - Réponse

I have successfully installed a Samsung 840 Pro Series SSD 256 GB inside my Mid 2011 iMac following this great guideline. However, I am thinking of replacing the SSD with Seagate 1TB SSHD because of the capacity. I am not sure whether I need to put it in an enclosure or I can attach it as a bare drive? Please advise.

showmak - Réponse

After ADDING an aditional SSD (samsung evo 850 1TB) to my 21.5inch imac mid 2011, I was having a problem with the speed of my cpu fan.

After adding this SSD I upgraded to El Capitan. I also added a OWC thermal cable on the SSD to solve the problem but my fan continued to turn very fast (4000RPM)

Nothing worked, so I installed Mac Fan control based on temperature of other sensors. This worked for one month untill last week my fan started turning fast again.

This time I checked my activity monitor. I noticed that my cpu was running at 700% because of my HP printer driver.

After deleting the driver I put all the fans on "auto" and my mac is now behaving like before the ssd upgrade.

I hope this will help someone who is having the same problem.


Daniel Plaisance - Réponse

If I install an SSD as a second drive (the original main HDD is still stay), no need to use fan control software? That SSD has no data and control the heat?

ferencib - Réponse

That was far and away the hardest computer upgrade I've ever done. So many little cables that I didn't notice were trapped until I had the motherboard back in, had to redo it so many times. And a couple of times I couldn't get the mobo lined up right and had to redo some more. I'm a little shocked the computer still works. 2 hours!

cyadmark - Réponse

best guide for repairing and upgrading your iMac with an SSD.

Jakob Miernik - Réponse

Done today with my dad in 2 hours 30 minutes with an Samsung 850 EVO 500 Go, macOS Sierra in Fresh-Install, "sudo trimforce enable", ...

Prefect !

Thanks for this tutorial and cheers from Belgium !

Geoffrey - Réponse

I tried this but now my imac is not starting where could i have gone wrong ?

nikhildhavale - Réponse

My power cable was loose. Also lcd data cable disconnected

nikhildhavale -


Sur mon iMac (EMC 2428), les trois connecteurs d'antenne AirPort étaient inversés!

Est-ce normal ?



On my iMac (EMC 2428), the three AirPort antenna connectors were inverted!

Is it normal ?


gdarri01 gdarri01 - Réponse

Done on my iMac mid-2011 !

I have shot one of the 3 AirPort antenna slots -the third one- and wifi still works great at high speed. (gdarri01: mine were inverted too, it is not a problem).

More over I have disconnected the fan dedicated to the CD player because it was too noisy and again, everything works great.

Bernard LERAT - Réponse

Is there a preferred SSD brand that works best for this? Can you install 2 SSD drives for maximum speed and capacity?

joemangrum - Réponse

Had a few minor mistakes, like having a couple of connectors hidden, but overall it when pretty well. Thank you for creating this guide! I would have never attempted this without the guide. Now I'm enjoying the SSD performance. I appreciate you taking the time to do this.

Kim Bachman - Réponse

Can you just replace the optical drive with a hard drive caddy like in the dual hard drive macbook pro (pre 2015) upgrade?

Kuldeep Chudasama - Réponse

Not really, The optical drive’s SATA port runs slower (3.0 Gb/s) than the spare SATA port(6.0 Gb/s) which you want to use for your second drive.

Dan -

Thanks a lot

Andrew - Réponse

I didn't want to invest in an SDD, but I still wanted to expand the storage on my 21.5" iMac mid-2011 for storing additional photos, the original 1TB drive was full so I added a 2nd 2TB drive (Seagate FireCuda). The iFixIt kit and upgrade guide were great. Just take your time, follow the guide and pay attention.

Christopher Martin - Réponse

Thanks a lot for this instruction.

If you don't know pinout of "pwr ssd" (j4531):

- v pin (first) - 5v

- second and fourth pins - ground

- third pin - blank

Николай Морунов - Réponse

Awesome, using an Apple SSD (for TRIM support) from eBay, I now have a Fusion Drive as if I'd bought one from Apple.

Jeremy Elgin - Réponse

just to know: could I reinstall the dvd-drive at the end? thanks in advise.

Igor Sampietro - Réponse

Yep DVD can be installed as well as dual hard drives.

Chris Carpenter - Réponse

Be extremely careful when removing the lcd connectors, specifically the large connector with the plastic pul tab. It is extremely fragile so handle with care.

Tape all the wires you remove from the logic board down, use a pencil and write the names or the colours of the wires on the tape. This saves you hours of time looking for wires or messing up and letting wires get hidden.

And lastly, something that is missing from this guide is the next steps. After you install your ssd you obviously want to change the boot drive to the ssd. For me personally, I wanted to copy all my hdd contents onto the ssd.

Firstly I launched the mac in recovery mode, and went into disk utility. From there the ssd wasnt picked up, you need to click file and show devices. Once the device shows up, you then have to format the drive.

Once its formatted, start your mac and use “carbon copy cloner” to clone your hdd to ssd. Once thats done, delete the hdd contents and voila job done.

Dazd - Réponse

Did the upgrade in November 2017, added a Samsung 850 EVO 500gb ssd drive as well as replaced the original (somewhat sketchy) 500 gb drive with a new 1tb drive.

Thanks for the concise step by step and especially all of the comments and helpful suggestions, combined, you saved a lot of potential grief.

I purchased the thermo sensor for the hard drive from OWC as the new 1tb drive caused the fan for the hard drive to run at max speed, it fixed that issue.

Now my aging iMac is much faster and more capable.

Paul Real - Réponse


thank you so much for the precious and precise guide.

I’ve just finished the operation hoping hat this will rejuvenate my iMac.


gabrielebacchetta - Réponse

Thank you so much for this guide. With the offered Toolkit it was really no hassle. I use a Samsung 850 EVO 1 TB SSD in my iMac 21,5 Mid 2011 (12 GB RAM) now, and everything works as planned. The iMac is super super fast now, like a totally new computer. I advise you really to be careful with the logic board, tape all the free cables wisely, to not hide/forget one of those below the logic board when reassembling. It happened to me for 1 small cable, but fortunately could be fixed within minutes ;) … So be careful. For the rest, I just followed all the steps, and had all screws on a safe place, numbers attached (#step = #screws)… It took me about 2 hours, just those steps here, from closed iMac SLOW to closed iMac with SSD :) - No software reinstallation/backup time included. I do have a technical background from my school time, don’t work in this field now. It is not easy to do, but also with less tech background you can do it properly, following this guide. Thanks a lot and Kudos iFixit Team!! You rock!

Thomas Sommeregger - Réponse

This is a great guide and kudos to iFixit for posting it. I’d done the same procedure before on my 27” iMac and added a 500 GB SSD but this was for a friend. It took me about 2 hrs but I was fairly meticulous about putting screws in labeled bags, labeling connectors &etc. Once I had everything out but before I added the new SSD I took it outside, blew out everything with canned compressed air and lastly replaced the PRAM battery.

I’ve had a fair amount of experience building and maintaining computers and if I would suggest anything to anyone looking to do this I would say just go slowly, be gentle and bag and tag the screws. One fingernail and the point of a plastic spudger generally gets the connectors out…take it easy and don’t be ham-fisted and it will work out OK.

Steven Kelly - Réponse

Really good guide, thank you. I would not have undertaken this upgrade without this guide. Took me about 2 hours for the whole job.

Mark Leslie - Réponse

Thanks for this great guide and especially the German translation. It is the first guide I ever followed on ifixit. Took pretty exactly two hours in my case like for many others.

The comments on many steps were also really helpful (especially concerning the different looking cables at the airport express card).

Eike - Réponse

Great guide, thanks a lot! I’ve moved the SuperDrive temperature sensor to the new SSD enclosure to have its temperature reading, just to have it under control.

Lorenzo Villa - Réponse

How do i get the RAM out after i’ve taken the logic board out. I see the comments now about RAM being removed before and unfortunately I simply upgraded my RAM in the beginning and put more in and now I can’t get the logic board seated correctly and I am losing my mind. HELP!

Melissa Horvath - Réponse

I got it! Holy crap that was nothing short of a miracle.

Melissa Horvath - Réponse

Great article! As others have noted, my main issue was getting the logic board back into the housing only to realize that the issue was the RAM not seating correctly. I ended up using my fingers to guide them back into their slots and there are not issues now. Runs great. Thanks!

Jonathan Holland - Réponse

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