Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour changer votre batterie MacBook Air 11" mi-2013.
Remarque : S'il y a un film plastique fin sur votre batterie de remplacement, n'essayez pas de le retirer. Il est collé et protège la batterie lorsqu'elle se trouve à l'intérieur du MacBook.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
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Deux vis pentalobes 8 mm 5-points
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Huit vis pentalobes 2.5 mm 5-points
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour faire levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur de la batterie afin de le déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Repliez légèrement la nappe de la batterie pour l'éloigner de la carte mère pour éviter que le connecteur ne se rabatte accidentellement et n'entre en contact avec sa prise.
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Retirez les cinq vis suivantes fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
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deux vis Torx T5 de 5,2 mm
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une vis Torx T5 de 6 mm
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deux vis Torx de 2,6 mm
Be carful with the torque when reassembling, these screws seem able to go a little too far and crack through the plastic of the battery.
To elaborate on Daniel’s comment, particularly the middle 6mm screw seems to have a lot of range and can be over-tightened. I stopped and backed it off a little when it appeared to be deforming the cell to the left.
After replacing the battery (IF108-063-2) I found the trackpad click pressure to be noticeably higher. The plastic frame on the replacement bowed out some just above the logos below the center cells, pressing on the trackpad once the lower case was reattached. I used some gentle heat from a hot air gun (I used about 150º C) to soften the plastic and bend it back down. This reduced the pressure on the trackpad.
I'm having the same issue. I got the -2 instead of -1 battery also for some reason. iFixit is this advised??
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Soulevez la batterie par les bords près de la carte mère puis retirez la du boîtier supérieur.
The instructions that come with the BRTONG replacement battery state the following:
1) Discharge it to 2% (quite specific) and then charge to 100% at the first cycle after purchasing
2) Do not discharge the battery pack to 0% as that will damage the battery pack and shorten its life (this does not specify WHEN not to do it. Only during the first cycle?)
This is very different from the ifixit instructions above , but ifixit could be referring just to the calibration, which could be done AFTER the first cycle, and the manufacturer could be referring just to the first cycle, and not to the calibration. I am not sure what to do. But I guess I will follow the manufacturer instructions during the first (and second, to be safe) cycles, and THEN follow the ifixit instructions for calibration.
Discharging the battery all the way to zero does shorten the battery life slightly, but it’s necessary for a proper calibration. Without calibration, the 2% reading is kind of meaningless, since the system can’t get an accurate % reading until after calibration (that’s the whole point of calibration). I’d follow the iFixit instructions (which are also Apple’s instructions) and ignore whatever that battery vendor sent you. You can find more background on calibration here.
What do I do with the old battery?
Good question! Please take the old battery to an e-waste facility.
Does it matter what OS is running on the computer during battery calibration? (my laptop is dual boot Linux and MacOS)
I’m putting in the new battery on a MacBook Air 11’ 2015 and the new battery has a black foam piece on top of the connector that seems to be glued on. Do I remove that?
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un point de recyclage certifié.
Votre réparation MacBook Air 11" mi-2013 ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un point de recyclage certifié.
Votre réparation MacBook Air 11" mi-2013 ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
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76 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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10 commentaires
Reminder: Crimp the new battery’s ribbon cable before you screw it in so that you’ll have an easier time connecting it to the power terminal.
That was too easy. After dealing with the glue and all the zif cables to replace the battery on a MacBook, this was just an easy breeze.
Followed instructions, but MacAir lost gattery icon and will not charge replaced battery, despite SCO reboot and recheck on battery connector
installed but now the macbook air trackpad ‘clicks’ when then touch it as if it’s slightly loose (it doesn’t physically do a click)
Same problem. I checked but didn't find the source, all the screws are OK.
Ich habe das selbe Problem, seitdem ich die Batterie gewechselt habe. Alle Schrauben geprüft, sie sind normal befestigt.
même problème depuis le changement de batterie. J'ai vérifié toutes les vis de fixation, elles sont bien serrées et pourtant le touchpad "sonne creux"
Francis -
Was supereasy and works perfectly now !
Great manual !!
Do what Andrew Harris suggested, the battery cable is quite stiff and will have to be bent slightly to align with the battery terminal when plugging the new battery in.
I found the work easier than described. OTOH, the first replacement battery shipped by iFixit was defective: clearly curved and wouldn't fit correctly. After sending photos, iFixit promptly shipped me a second replacement battery, which fit correctly. The almost 10 year-old computer now has far longer endurance on battery power. I am quite satisfied.
If my MacBook Air is not charging at all now will replacing the battery fix it or is it likely there is a bigger issue with the MagSafe component or the logic board? I've done SMC reset (though hard to tell if it is working).
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - Réponse
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - Réponse
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - Réponse
A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.
Michael Mee - Réponse
Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!
Lilljedahl -
I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.
It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.
I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?
AMG - Réponse
The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)
Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.
Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372
Hope this helps! -Dan
danielwen -
I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?
Robert Hermans - Réponse
Hi Robert!
Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!
Arthur Shi -
Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy
vensilver - Réponse
Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.
Arthur Shi -
The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.
Rachel Slatkin - Réponse