Introduction

Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez une vitre avant d'écran cassée. Il est nécessaire de retirer cette vitre pour accéder à l'écran LCD.

Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
  • Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :

    • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

    • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523 - Réponse

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips -

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

johnsawyercjs -

Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

johnsawyercjs -

One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

johnsawyercjs -

Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

David Fear -

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte - Réponse

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk - Réponse

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2 -

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718 - Réponse

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover - Réponse

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie -

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet -

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey -

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson - Réponse

Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

danzeitlin -

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan - Réponse

I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

john - Réponse

Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

Igor - Réponse

The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

Winston -

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - Réponse

I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

tarriojuan - Réponse

Had no idea they were so expensive.

Franklin - Réponse

Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

Luis Soto - Réponse

There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

Luis - Réponse

If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

gkofga - Réponse

What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

John Doe -

<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

Joseph King - Réponse

It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

Mike - Réponse

Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
  • Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - Réponse

  • À titre de précaution, nous vous conseillons de débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère afin d'éviter les décharges électriques.

  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

why is step 3 necessary?

gansodesoya - Réponse

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane - Réponse

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

amiller770 - Réponse

I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

shockaaa - Réponse

Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

Brian -

$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

Lukas Besch - Réponse

You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

Logan Bean -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung - Réponse

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

Berlugana

bduault - Réponse

Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

amiller770 -

I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

Plamen - Réponse

I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

marioluiggi -

A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

.

Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

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Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

Luis Soto - Réponse

Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

Everett Whiteman - Réponse

It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

Knox Karima - Réponse

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - Réponse

Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

clsmithj - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du caisson de basse/du haut-parleur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire levier sous le connecteur comme sur la photo et non pas sous la prise même. Sinon, vous risqueriez de séparer accidentellement la prise de la carte mère.

You must first separate the little foam pad to see better how to pry the cable

connector up. You must be

careful not to root up also its socket

stuck on the logic board

ramonananos - Réponse

My subwoofer/right speaker connection seemed to be soldered on the main board. Of course, I pried this off..realizing right after that there was no reconnecting it (&^$%^@!). There's really no reason to even disconnect this wire on the MacBook pro 13 mid-2009

Glad this is my "project" Mac

srlincoln - Réponse

Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

BWilliams842 - Réponse

A better description would have been worth a lot....

I accidently pried off the socket aswell... gonna have to go to the computer/robotics lab at my college to resolder it -.-

Juliane Aschenbrenner - Réponse

I didn't have to do step 4 for my mid-2010 13" mbp.

jonk2015 - Réponse

CAUTION!! Note is required here! First off step is truly unnecessary! Secondly, just don't do it!

Edward Turkovich - Réponse

A real closeup photo of this small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out would be a great help. !

Peter Mayo - Réponse

Don't follow this step!!!! It is complete unnecessary. I just riped of the socket....

hilbert - Réponse

Thank you for the warning not to perform this step. It is unnecessary to unplug that connector.

Fill IP - Réponse

  • Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de la prise.

    • Une petite pièce en plastique dur est fixée sur la carte mère pour empêcher la nappe de la caméra de sortir de sa prise. Veillez à l'enlever d'abord sinon vous pourriez endommager les connecteurs.

  • Faites attention à tirer sur le connecteur parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, vers le lecteur optique et non vers le haut.

Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

Silvio - Réponse

that's not only the camera but the wifi and bluetooth too. Be extremely careful!

Jose Luis Blas - Réponse

So I unfortunately did not find this guide when I was replacing my keyboard. I did at first force this connection, didn't know I could peel that black plastic piece off, then was able to smoothly get it in. Now my Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/web cam isn't working. I'm looking at the connection now and it looks undamaged. How do I know for certain I damaged the cord and/or socket

Vic - Réponse

Does anybody knows how I can change the cable+connector, and where to buy it? Thanks

Guillermo - Réponse

It would be so helpful if a real closeup of the hard piece of plastic that keeps the connector in place were included. In the photo. it looks to be almost where

Peter Mayo - Réponse

the guys fingernail is in the photo and close to the screw near the top edge of the connector, is that correct ?

Peter Mayo - Réponse

This step is unnecessary. And the connector is very very fragile. Don't follow this step.

hilbert - Réponse

The comment above from hilberg is wrong. You should disconnect this plug, otherwise one can not detach the screen later.

Fill IP - Réponse

Please be VERY careful. I fixed my Macbook Pro A1278 Backlit Keyboard but lost my WiFi/Camera/Bluetooth…

Caio Carvalho - Réponse

  • Dégagez le câble de données de la caméra de la rainure dans le lecteur optique.

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  • Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le câble de données de la caméra et le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 8 mm.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 4 mm.

  • Une des vis cruciformes de 8 mm risque de rester prise dans boucle de la mise à terre du câble de la caméra.

  • Faites glisser la fixation du câble de la caméra hors de son emplacement sous le caisson de basse et ôtez-la de l'ordinateur.

For my mid-2010 mbp, removing the 4mm screw is not enough as the camera cable bracket is under the black cover. I need to unscrew another screw (see the dark cover in step 6). However, the speaker (dark circle in step 6) is a strong magnet and the little screw flew onto it and crack the speaker slightly. You need to be very careful of this. The sound wasn't as clear when I turn on loud volume after that.

jonk2015 - Réponse

in my case the 8-mm screw was stuck. I needed to drill the head.

Fill IP - Réponse

Be careful when taking off the screws here. When I was taking apart the bracket, one of the screws became severely stripped (to the point where it was rounded. I had to wait to wait until my father got home so he can give me his screw extracting tools. The same can be said for the display cable bracket ( but that one wasn’t such a big deal for me since I didn’t severely strip it, a bigger screwdriver helped out for me.)

Willie Narvaez - Réponse

  • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

  • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.

  • Veillez à tirer le connecteur hors de sa prise et non vers le haut.

Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366...

As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

Jonty Levine - Réponse

I did what you said, disconnect and reconnect the display data cable but the problem didn't go away. Any idea how to fix this?

jonk2015 -

I also encountered the issue at the bottom of the screen. I can't get mine to go away. I can make it vary a bit or at least the whole display to vary by fluctuating the connection, but it just won't go away. I'm open to any other suggestions.

I might have manhandled the bottom of my screen a bit. I didn't realize how to get the plastic u-shaped cover off, and I fudged around with it for a while before reading somewhere that it just slides down. I thought I had read that it snapped on, so I had been a little flustered on why it wouldn't snap off.

Anyway, if anyone has suggestions I'd be all ears.

Tim -

It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

brian62 - Réponse

  • Dévissez les deux vis suivantes, fixant le support du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 7 mm.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm.

  • Ôtez le support du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

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  • Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6,5 mm fixant les deux supports de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).

This says t use a 6.5 mm Torx driver. In the required tools list it only mentions a 6 mm Torx driver. Where can we find a 6.5 mm Torx Driver?

Matthew Shaw - Réponse

The 6mm vs 6.5mm is the length of the screw. It is still a T6 head (although mine was a T7 for some reason). I think the middle screw on each side is 0.5mm longer.

Dean Landry -

lol… turns out mine is a mid-2012 model. That accounts for the different screw head. But the 6mm vs 6.5mm still use the same driver if they’re both T6.

Dean Landry -

In my case, i had to use a t8 screwdriver. My tools are not from Ifixit but i’m just sayin.

Willie Narvaez - Réponse

  • Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.

  • Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

  • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx de 6,5 mm restante du support inférieur de l'écran.

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  • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur ensemble avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran/ le boîtier inférieur libéré et donc de les abîmer.

  • Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T6 de 6 mm fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

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  • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que le support supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.

  • Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

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  • Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce qu'aucun support ni aucune nappe ne reste accroché.

Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

Pete H - Réponse

May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

cmackay13stmarys - Réponse

  • Au cours des étapes suivantes, vous aurez besoin d'une pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir la colle fixant la bordure extérieure noire à l'écran toute autour de la face intérieure de la vitre avant. La zone où la colle a été mise est marquée en rouge sur la seconde photo.

  • Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.

  • Ne pointez jamais le pistolet sur la bande souple en caoutchouc autour de la vitre. Si vous chauffez le caoutchouc, vous risquez de le faire fondre légèrement et de rendre brillante sa surface matte. Si vous touchez le caoutchouc surchauffé, vous risquez de le déformer définitivement.

  • Dû à la chaleur appliquée, il est normal qu'une couche de condensation se forme à l'intérieur de la vitre et/ou à l'extérieur de l'écran LCD. Vous pouvez l'enlevez avec du nettoyant pour vitres une fois que la vitre est séparée de l'écran.

Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

Silvio - Réponse

Great piece of advice. Thank you!

Brian -

With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

Athanassios Diacakis - Réponse

First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

contact - Réponse

It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

Jeff Kamis

maccentric -

****EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE GLASS**** Instead of using this large heat gun, I used an Ancor Marine Grade Mirco Thermal Heat Gun (Ancor 702027) I picked up at West Marine. The tip is the exact width of the black trim and really concentrates the heat to the tape without heating outter rubber trim. No lie....I followed the heat gun all the way around the edge with a tiny pry tool and the glass was off in 5 min!!

LKFitzgerald1 - Réponse

what temperature did u have it set at? I have a digital rework station i want to use.

Bradley -

All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

Nick - Réponse

The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

brian62 - Réponse

  • Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.

  • Ne fixez pas la ventouse sur la bande en caoutchouc au bord de la vitre.

  • Si vous utilisez une de nos ventouses, posez-la, la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Puis, tout en appuyant légèrement la ventouse sur la vitre, relevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

  • Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.

  • Si vous arrivez juste à soulever le bord supérieur de l'écran (comme sur la troisième photo), répétez les étapes un et deux jusqu'à ce que le coin de la vitre se soulève.

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  • Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour pouvoir insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.

  • Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.

  • Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.

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  • Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.

  • Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.

  • Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

  • Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.

  • Il peut être utile d'insérer un médiator de guitare ou un autre objet fin en plastique pour empêcher le coin supérieur droit de la vitre avant de se recoller sur l'ensemble écran.

I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

mastover - Réponse

  • Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.

  • Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.

  • Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre, en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.

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  • Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.

  • Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.

  • Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

  • Après avoir séparé le coin supérieur gauche de l'écran, il peut être utile d'insérer un médiator de guitare ou un autre objet fin en plastique pour empêcher la vitre de se recoller sur l'ensemble écran.

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  • Avec un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.

  • Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.

  • Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

  • Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.

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  • Maintenant que les bords supérieur, gauche et droit de la vitre sont séparés de l'écran, soulevez doucement le bord supérieur de la vitre et faites-le délicatement pivoter pour le retirer de l'écran.

  • Si nécessaire, séparez le bord inférieur de la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

  • Avant le remontage, veillez à nettoyer l'intérieur de la vitre ainsi que l'écran LCD, car toute poussière ou empreinte digitale à l'intérieur se verra et gênera dès que l'ordinateur sera allumé.

How do you clean the LCD without damaging it? I have some glass dust and other things including a fingerprint resting on the screen, though I have yet to damage the LCD and would like to keep it that way.

Erin - Réponse

  • Sautez cette étape si vous réutilisez la vitre d'origine.

  • Insérez la pointe d'un outil en plastique entre la vitre de l'écran et la fixation de la caméra et progressez autour de la fixation de la camera pour le séparer de la vitre.

  • N'oubliez pas de monter la fixation de la caméra sur la nouvelle vitre avant avant le remontage.

I had issues getting the panel back on till I got rid of the little camera bracket. I just made sure the glass aligned properly then removed the bracket. The bracket didn't stick worth beans anyway.

mastover - Réponse

  • Il est possible que la nappe de la caméra se prenne dans la colle sur la vitre, puis se déconnecte de la carte caméra au moment où vous soulevez la vitre. Si la nappe est toujours connectée à la carte caméra, sautez cette étape.

  • Pour reconnecter la nappe de la caméra, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF de la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule.

  • Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise de la nappe de la caméra.

  • Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.

  • Refixez le morceau de mousse autocollante couvrant la prise de la nappe de la caméra.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Will the suction cup still work on a heavily cracked screen?

alexf - Réponse

Mine was not all that cracked, but still the suction cups were useless because if you have one crack through the "suction area", it won't work.

namnamkha -

I just replace the glass on my 13" MacBook Pro with badly broken glass screen.

The suction cup did not work because a) my screen was cracked badly and the cup would not hold suction, and b) the glue is too tenacious (even with heating) and over a large surface area to simply pull it away from the frame, especially if the glass is cracked.

I found a hairdryer on hottest setting, but lowest speed works best. It softens the glue enough to pry the glass away from the frame. I had to work around the perimeter using the Spudger tool and a small, flat-blade screw driver. I started prying at a cracked opening in my glass (it was really badly cracked - someone stepped on the computer when my daughter left it on the floor!). Need to be very carefull with using the screw driver - only pry along and parallel to the edge of the frame like using an ice scraper on a sidewalk. Don't pry on the rubber seal on the edge and stay away from the LCD.

I left the cracked glass in place until I cleared all of the glass along the perimeter- this allowed me to rest my hand on the screen without damaging/scratching the LCD underneath.

Be aware that the camera cable runs in a channel from the lens on top to the right corner, then down the right edge of the screen. The channel is in the center of the border, so it is ok to pry under the glass as close as you can get to the rubber seal on the edge, and also on the inside edge of the border, but take care not to pry into the LCD. The camera cable is wider and has connectors within 2 inches of the lens, so you really need to be careful with prying in this area. I saved the lens area for last. Started to the left of the lens and worked counterclockwise around the perimeter.

If you take your time, heat a small area, pry the glass away and continue around the perimeter, it will come out. Need to be patient and not get in a hurry.

When the glass is removed, take care to clean out the glass fragments, especially down between the edge of the LCD and the frame. I used a business card to slide in the gap and pull out pieces of glass. Then used small piece of packaging tape, tacky side out, to dab out the small pieces (don't put the tape on the LCD, just the frame border area). Overall, the instructions on this site are excellent - I had no trouble removing the screen from the base of the computer, and re-assembling with the pictures and the instructions.

One improvement would be to show better detail how to remove the screen power cable - the locking mechanism has to be rotated from flat position to about 90 degrees before pulling the connector. It was not obvious how to do this in the instructions - it is a U-shaped bar that connects on each side of the connector and runs around the stationary part of the socket. Simply lift it up before pulling the connector out. I pulled the connector without lifting this U-shaped arm first, and it fell off when I pulled the plug. I was able to put it back on to the connector without much trouble.

The connecters all went back in to place very well. The machine worked when I started it up after re-assembly. It works and looks great.

Thanks for the instructions!

Joe - Réponse

Looking for tape just in case I need some to affix the glass. Do you carry this, if so which on would best to use?

Raymond Rylander - Réponse

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