Introduction

Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez l'ensemble écran de votre MacBook Pro.

  1. Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

      • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.

      • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

    important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

    mysterioes - Réponse

    Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

    Kyle Spadaro -

    Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

    The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

    I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

    - carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

    - remove the assembly and flip it over

    - again carefully remove the shielding tape

    - undo 3 tiny screws

    - gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

    - reverse process with replacement card.

    image can be found here:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

    Remon - Réponse

    It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

    Human - Réponse

    3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

    -I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

    2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

    1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

    These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

    scottbernardis - Réponse

    I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

    Grace Morris - Réponse

    This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

    Steve Adamczyk -

  2. Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et la ventilation et soulevez vers le haut pour libérer les clips maintenant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur.
    • Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et la ventilation et soulevez vers le haut pour libérer les clips maintenant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

    d68ef792 - Réponse

    • Chaque fois que vous travaillez près de la carte mère, il est judicieux de débrancher d'abord la batterie pour éviter les courts-circuits.

    • Si elle est présente, saisissez la languette en plastique attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la vers le bord avant de l'appareil. Pour les modèles fin 2011, le connecteur de batterie n'a pas de languette mais simplement une prise qui s'insère directement dans la carte mère - pour la retirer, tirez-la vers le haut.

    • Si la languette en plastique est absente, utilisez une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de sa prise.

    • Tirez la languette parallèlement à la face de la carte mère.

    This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

    yary hluchan - Réponse

    Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

    Tobias Hahn - Réponse

    As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

    bhodges2 - Réponse

    Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

    Stephen -

    * There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

    ** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

    Pinguman - Réponse

    Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

    Dave - Réponse

    I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

    jmueller -

    I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

    Doug Hogg - Réponse

    With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!

    Phil Boy - Réponse

    • Avant de déconnecter la nappe de la caméra, il faut enlever un petit dispositif d'attache en plastique, fixé à la carte mère. Sur les modèles fin 2011, vous pouvez sauter cette étape, car ils n'ont pas ce dispositif d'attache du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le petit dispositif d'attache en plastique hors de la prise de la nappe de la caméra, de façon à y voir clair quand vous retirez cette nappe.

    I think I should have a photo of the plastic retainer as there may be more people like me who were afraid to take the part.

    Cassio Machado - Réponse

    • Tirez la nappe de la caméra vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique pour la déconnecter de la carte mère.

    • La prise de la nappe de la caméra est très fragile. N'exercez pas de pression sur la prise vers le haut, car elle pourrait se détacher de la carte mère. Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Tirez délicatement la nappe Bluetooth vers les ventilateurs pour la déconnecter de la carte Bluetooth.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface du lecteur optique.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, décollez la fine couverture en plastique sur le haut et les bords du boîtier de la carte Bluetooth. Pour les modèles fin 2011, regardez la seconde photo, car le connecteur est à un tout autre endroit.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de l'antenne Bluetooth pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte Bluetooth.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Enlevez la petite pièce de mousse EMI, si il y en a une à côté de la carte Bluetooth.

    • Dégagez la nappe de la caméra de la fente moulée dans le boîtier de la carte Bluetooth.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 7,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la caméra au boîtier supérieur.

    • Ôtez du boîtier supérieur le support de la nappe de la caméra.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique noire fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et faites-la pivoter vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Tirez le câble de données de l'écran hors de sa prise.

    • La prise du câble de données de l'écran est très fragile. Ne tirez pas le connecteur vers le haut, car la prise pourrait se détacher de la carte mère. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 7,1 mm fixant le support du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez le support du câble de données de l'écran.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx T6 de 6,8 mm fixant chacune des deux fixations de l'écran (quatre vis au total).

    • Nous vous demandons intentionnellement de laisser une des vis fixant les fixations de l'écran au boîtier supérieur, car cela facilite les étapes suivantes.

    I viewed a YouTube video showing this process. There was a warning about the stripping of the Torx screws being common on this mid-2009 model MBP. Is that something you have come ever across? It's the only thing holding me back from attempting this myself. TY in advance!

    s0mvh - Réponse

    Taking those hinge screws out can be difficult (they are fat, and they resist turning). In my first attempt I destroyed the Torx screwdriver bit (soft metal, I discovered, so the bit twisted into a corkscrew before it snapped off). After buying the ifixit screwdriver set I found that the driver bits were tough enough, but the screws still would not budge! So, I used a small mole-grip wrench to hold the metal part of the screwdriver, and GENTLY turned until I felt the screw give way with a click. Luckily, the threads did not strip. However, if you find that even with that extra torque from the wrench, it is still resisting in a big way, go one more step and try a very tiny drop of thread-loosening fluid on it. (That last suggestion, however, is risky, so be careful.... do not let any fluid get anywhere except the screw, and then give it time to work).

    rpwl -

    What's the url to the youtube video you mentioned?

    David Fear -

    I just did this now (11:21 am, Sept 18 2014) A tip for removing glass bezel on the frame if you don't have a heat gun. I used a very sharp but super thin razor (the one for shaving) and slice the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the lcd. After slicing all around, get any thin plastic card and slide it all around the bezel until the glass comes off. I have a mid 09 macbook pro 17" that had a broken lcd and a 2010 macbook pro i7 17" that had a logic board problem but good lcd. Both A1297. I did it twice using my method.

    J A N Marquez - Réponse

    Thanks! This made my display so much easier ...and I just love my new ifixit toolkit. Now... what else can I fix! lol Much appreciated!

    Leshell - Réponse

    • Ouvrez votre MacBook Pro de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.

    • Posez votre MacBook Pro ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

    • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur de la main gauche, dévissez la vis Torx T6 restante de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier inférieur et donc de les abîmer.

    • Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T6 fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

    • Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que ni fixation ni nappe ne reste accrochée.

    Ajouter un commentaire

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

28 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

94%

Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›

This guide was a bit difficult to follow because the photos didn't represent 'exactly' what I was seeing. I was able to find the corresponding connections.

The trouble I'm having is the guide seems to end a few steps too soon. I still have a display inside the upper shell, the piece with the Apple logo. I'm very concerned for the well-being of the 'old' pieces in question. I have to save the upper case piece while extracting the display.

Any ideas please?

buz - Réponse

The title is misleading, and only covers the upper shell removal. I believe your issue is that you want to replace the display panel only, and not the enclosure or camera device. In most cases, however, technicians will simply counsel replacement of the entire upper shell, as replacing inner display components will rack up service hours and end up costing the equivalent of a new shell.

From an iFixit perspective, however, this is moot. You could find a display panel component on ebay, and do the work. I hope you found a more in-depth guide.

brendonwbrown -

According to comments from iFixit on the teardown (MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Teardown), they don’t consider the upper case assembly to be repairable. See comments on step 23 of the teardown.

If anyone has been able to open and close the upper case without damaging it, please share the procedure with the rest of us!

shamino -

How much of this do I need to do simply to replace the LVDS cable?

RB1234 - Réponse

17” 2011 Macbook Pro 2.5 (BTO) has a different section at the left hand side, the part where the cables for the wireless hook up. Pay attention to the layout and think before untying any screws. The board that hooks up the wireless is “in” a separate bridge, installed next to the DVD writer with independent screws for suspension.

aramis - Réponse

Excellent guide, thank you. My laptop is a bit different to pictures, but by looking at other guides and using this one as my main source it was easy to work it all out. I found it easier to lay the keyboard side on a foam mat on edge of table to remove and refit upper shell as in this demo: https://youtu.be/u7jjMI1Et0k?t=200 - I couldn’t manage it with sitting it on its side. Biggest problem was stripping screws, which I finally figured out I was doing by using too small a driver - best advice from my experience is to have good quality tools with a few sizes either side of the drivers specified, and use the largest driver that catches before going too far with it. I had an extra wi fi cable from my new screen (early 2011 screen for a mid 2010 mbp), which just I taped and tucked it in. Was so stoked when I turned it on and it all works beautifully!

Trish - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Voir les statistiques:

Dernières 24 heures : 9

7 derniers jours : 69

30 derniers jours : 273

Total : 61,412