1. Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.
    • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

    • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

      • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Réponse

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Réponse

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - Réponse

  2. Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
    • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

    • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

    • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

    • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

    • Si l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au milieu pour le toucher, continuez de l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il ait assez refroidi pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé doit rester chaud pendant 10 minutes environ.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Réponse

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Réponse

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Réponse

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Réponse

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Réponse

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Réponse

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Réponse

    • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates pour éviter le milieu qui est très chaud.

    • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez un gant de cuisine si nécessaire.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Réponse

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Réponse

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    • Si votre écran est fissuré, et afin de prévenir une nouvelle casse ou une blessure pendant la réparation, recouvrez de ruban adhésif toute la vitre de votre iPad.

    • Placez des bandes superposées de ruban adhésif transparent sur l'écran de l'iPad jusqu'à ce qu'il soit entièrement recouvert.

      • Cela permettra de ne pas faire tomber les éclats de verre et de garder une certaine stabilité lorsque vous ferez levier et enlèverez l'écran.

    • Faites de votre mieux pour suivre le reste du tutoriel tel que décrit. Cependant, une fois que le verre est cassé, il continuera sûrement à craqueler et vous devrez peut-être utiliser un outil en métal pour dégager les éclats de verre.

    • Portez des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux et faites attention de ne pas endommager l'écran LCD.

    In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

    - I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

    - Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

    - Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

    - Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

    - Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

    - Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

    - If needed: repeat in other direction.

    - If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

    Good luck, you brave person!

    volty - Réponse

    This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

    Bill Roughen - Réponse

    • En le manipulant par le attaches de chaque côté, placez l'iOpener chauffé sur le côté de l'iPad à gauche du bouton home.

    • Laissez l'iOpener agir pendant environ cinq minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

    I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

    jaromhyde - Réponse

    • Placez soigneusement une ventouse à mi-hauteur du côté chauffé.

      • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère à l'écran sur toute sa surface pour obtenir un joint étanche.

    • Tout en maintenant l'iPad enfoncé d'une main, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement la vitre du panneau frontal de la coque arrière.

    • Veillez à soulever le vitre de juste ce qu'il faut pour insérer un médiator, car vous risqueriez de la briser en soulevant trop.

    This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

    robloomis - Réponse

    just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

    Ethan Chow -

    for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

    George - Réponse

    • Tout en tenant le verre avec la ventouse, faites glisser la pointe d'un médiator dans l'espace entre la vitre et le reste de l'iPad.

      • N'insérez pas la pointe plus profondément que le cache noir sur le côté de l'écran. Aller trop loin peut endommager l'écran LCD.

    • Tirez sur la ventouse pour ouvrir le joint d'étanchéité sous vide et retirez la ventouse de l'écran.

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    • Refaites chauffer et Reposez l'iOpener.

      • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez toujours au moins dix minutes avant de réchauffer l'iOpener.

    • Laissez reposer pendant quelques minutes pour chauffer le bord gauche de l'iPad.

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    • Placez un deuxième médiator à côté du premier et faites-le glisser le long de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

    • Si, au long du reste de la procédure, vous rencontrez une grande résistance en faisant glisser vos médiators sous le verre, arrêtez et réchauffez la section sur laquelle vous travaillez. Forcer sur les médiators risque de briser le verre.

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    • Continuez à déplacer le médiator vers le bas de l'écran pour détacher l'adhésif.

    • Si le médiator reste bloqué dans l'adhésif, faites-le tourner le long de l'iPad, en continuant à décoller l'adhésif.

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    • Prenez le premier médiator que vous avez inséré et faites-le glisser vers le coin supérieur de l'iPad.

    • Si vous pouvez voir la pointe du médiator à travers la vitre, ne paniquez pas, tirez-le juste un peu. Tout se passera certainement bien, mais évitez, car vous pouvez mettre ainsi de l'adhésif sur l'avant de l'écran LCD et c'est difficile à nettoyer.

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    • Refaites chauffer l'iOpener et placez-le sur le bord supérieur de l'iPad, sur la caméra frontale.

      • Veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la procédure de réparation. Attendez au moins dix minutes avant de réchauffer l'iOpener.

    • Si vous avez un iOpener flexible, vous pouvez le plier pour chauffer le coin supérieur gauche et le bord supérieur en même temps.

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    • Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur gauche de l'iPad pour séparer l'adhésif.

    Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

    Padraic Hoselton - Réponse

    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord supérieur de l'iPad, en vous arrêtant juste avant d'atteindre la caméra.

    • La troisième image montre l'emplacement de la caméra frontale et de son boîtier dans l'iPad.

      • Évitez de faire glisser le médiator sur la caméra avant, sinon vous risquez de mettre de l'adhésif sur la lentille ou d'endommager la caméra. Les étapes suivantes détaillent la façon d'éviter d'endommager la caméra frontale.

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    • Tirez légèrement sur le médiator et faites-le délicatement glisser le long de la zone de la caméra frontale.

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    • Laissez le médiator dans l'iPad juste après la caméra frontale.

    • Prenez un deuxième médiator et insérez-le à gauche de la caméra, là où le premier médiator était. Faites-le glisser vers le coin pour décoller complètement tout adhésif restant.

    • Laissez le deuxième médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif dans l'angle recolle en refroidissant.

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    • Insérez le médiator précédent plus profondément dans l'iPad et faites-le glisser depuis la caméra vers le coin.

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    • Laissez les trois médiators dans les coins de l'iPad afin d'empêcher toute nouvelle adhérence de l'adhésif du panneau frontal.

    • Réchauffez l'iOpener et placez-le sur le côté long restant de l'iPad, le long des boutons de volume et de verrouillage.

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    • Faites glisser le médiator droit supérieur autour du coin pour décoller complètement le bord supérieur du verre.

    • Laissez ce médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle et prenez un nouveau médiator pour l'étape suivante.

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    • Insérez un nouveau médiator et faites-le glisser jusqu'au milieu du bord droit de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif au fur et à mesure.

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    • Continuez à faire glisser le médiator vers le bas de l'iPad, en décollant l'adhésif.

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    • Laissez les médiators en place et refaites chauffer l'iOpener.

      • N'oubliez pas de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener – pas plus d'une fois toutes les dix minutes.

    • Posez l'iOpener chauffé sur la zone du bouton home et laisse-le agir pendant quelques minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif sous le verre.

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    • Faites glisser le médiator inférieur gauche vers le coin inférieur gauche pour couper l'adhésif dans ce coin.

    • Laissez-y le médiator. N'allez pas plus loin et ne retirez pas le médiator de l'iPad.

    • Il y a un certain nombre de choses à éviter sous la vitre inférieure, alors étudiez attentivement la troisième image :

      • Antennes

      • Emplacement du bouton home

      • Nappe de la vitre tactile

    • Les étapes suivantes vous diront où il faut travailler pour éviter d'endommager ces composants. Ne faites chauffer que les endroits indiqués.

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    • Laissez le médiator de la dernière étape en place pour éviter que l'adhésif recolle.

    • Faites délicatement glisser un nouveau médiator par-dessus l'antenne gauche et arrêtez-vous avent le bouton home.

      • Faites glisser simplement le médiator depuis bord extérieur vers le centre de l'iPad. Ne le déplacez pas vers le bord extérieur, car dans ce sens, vous endommageriez l'antenne.

      • Si vous devez passer plusieurs fois, retirez le médiator et réinsérez-le sur le bord extérieur et faites-le glisser vers l'intérieur.

    • Laisser les médiators en place avant de poursuivre.

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    • Insérez la pointe d'un dernier médiator à côté de celui de l'étape précédente et faites-le glisser sous le bouton home.

    • Arrêtez à environ 2,5 cm du côté droit pour éviter de couper la nappe de la vitre tactile.

    • Insérez le médiator un peu plus profondément et retournez vers le bouton home.

    • Encore une fois, assurez-vous de faire seulement glisser le médiator vers le centre de l'iPad lorsqu'il est complètement inséré. Sinon, vous risquez d'endommager l'antenne sous le verre.

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    • Réchauffez et reposez l'iOpener sur la partie supérieure du joint de l'iPad.

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    • Faites très attention pendant cette étape. Prenez votre temps et assurez-vous que l'adhésif est chaud et mou, et que vous avez coupé tout l'adhésif avec un médiator. N'ayez pas peur d'arrêter et de refaire chauffer.

    • En haut de l'iPad en face du bouton home, vous devriez avoir un médiator logé dans chaque coin. Faites-les pivoter pour soulever légèrement le verre et séparer ainsi le reste d'adhésif le long des quatre bords.

    • Si vous rencontrez une grande résistance, arrêtez de pivoter. Laissez les médiators en place, refaites chauffer et reposez l'iOpener sur les zones problématiques, avant d'y insérer un médiator une fois de plus.

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    • Soulevez lentement et délicatement pour détacher l'adhésif le long du bord inférieur.

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    • Une fois que tout l'adhésif a été enlevé, tournez la vitre de l'écran comme une page d'un livre et posez-la sur votre plan de travail.

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    • Le boîtier de la caméra frontale peut rester accroché au panneau frontal. Décollez le boîtier et placez-le sur la caméra pour la protéger.

    • Faites pivoter le boîtier de la caméra sur un bord pour le libérer de l'adhésif et retirez-le du panneau frontal.

    • Remettez le boîtier de la caméra à sa place dans la coque arrière.

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    • De petits morceaux de mousse autocollante recouvrent les vis droites supérieures et inférieures, fixant l'écran LCD à la coque arrière.

    • Utilisez une pincette pour décoller et enlever le morceau rectangulaire de mousse recouvrant la vis supérieure droite du LCD.

    • Retirez le morceau triangulaire de mousse recouvrant la vis inférieure droite du LCD.

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    • La vis en haut à gauche du LCD peut être recouverte d'un ruban adhésif venant du panneau frontal.

    • Dans ce cas, utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le ruban vers le haut et à l'extérieur, accédant ainsi à la vis en dessous.

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    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes #000 de 3,9 mm fixant l'écran LCD à la coque arrière.

    In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.


    Mitja Jankovic - Réponse

    Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

    Walter Galan -

    The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

    sandro - Réponse

    On mine the top right screw is longer

    oliver - Réponse

    top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

    sagert - Réponse

    • Utilisez une pincette pour décoller le petit morceau de bande adhésive reliant le châssis du LCD au haut-parleur droit.

    I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

    K8L - Réponse

    • Une mince bande de mousse autocollante sur le cadre du LCD recouvre une bande d'adhésif reliant l'écran LCD au panneau en dessous. Pour continuer, vous devrez déchirer et décoller un peu cette bande de mousse pour accéder à l'adhésif caché en dessous.

    • Utilisez une fine pincette pour tirer le haut de la bande de mousse entourant l'écran LCD.

      • Veillez à ne pas toucher l'écran LCD avec la pincette, car vous risquez de l'endommager.

    • Utilisez la pincette pour décoller le ruban de mousse pour accéder au haut de l'écran LCD.

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    • Insérez la pointe d'un spudger entre le châssis du LCD et la bande adhésive sur le dessus de l'écran LCD.

    • Faites glisser le spudger le long de l'espace entre le châssis LCD et la bande adhésive, en décollant la bande du châssis du LCD.

    I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

    Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

    Kenneth Snyder - Réponse

    • L'écran LCD est collé à la plaque de protection métallique du LCD, derrière celle-ci, le long des bords supérieur, gauche et droit. Afin de décoller cet adhésif en toute sécurité, vous utiliserez un médiator pour déplacer plusieurs fois l'écran LCD de quelques millimètres de gauche à droite.

    • Insérez un médiator dans l'espace entre l'écran LCD et la coque arrière, près du haut du côté gauche de l'écran LCD.

    • Inclinez légèrement le médiator pour l'éloigner de l'iPad, juste assez pour élargir l'espace entre l'écran LCD et la coque arrière.

    I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

    bababooey - Réponse

    The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

    Brandon Lukasik - Réponse

    This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

    Dan Harris - Réponse

    Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

    brauliox - Réponse

    I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

    northstar - Réponse

    I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

    northstar - Réponse

    • Insérez le médiator à trois endroits de plus sur le côté gauche de l'écran LCD et inclinez-le à chaque fois, pour faire glisser l'écran LCD sur le côté droit de la coque arrière.

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    • Passez maintenant au côté droit de l'écran LCD et faites levier avec le médiator à plusieurs endroits le long du côté pour déplacer l'écran LCD vers la gauche.

    • Répétez cette étape et la précédente plusieurs fois, jusqu'à ce que l'écran LCD soit facilement démontable vers la gauche et vers la droite.

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    • Dans les prochaines étapes, vous ferez glisser un spudger entre l'écran LCD et la plaque de protection en métal pour séparer complètement l'écran LCD de l'adhésif en dessous.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le châssis du LCD et la plaque de protection en métal.

      • Assurez-vous d'insérer le spudger entre le cadre LCD et la plaque de protection, et non sous la plaque. Faire levier sur la plaque l'endommagerait, car elle est vissée à la coque arrière sous l'écran LCD.

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    • En commençant en haut à droite de l'appareil, faites glisser le spudger entre le châssis du LCD et la plaque de protection en métal. L'adhésif se décollera au fur et à mesure que vous faites glisser votre outil.

      • L'objectif est de séparer l'adhésif et non de faire levier sur l'écran LCD. Pour cela, maintenez la pointe du spudger aussi bas que possible pour éviter de plier l'écran LCD.

    • Si l'insertion du spudger plie le coin de l'écran LCD, répétez les étapes avec le médiator pour décoller davantage l'adhésif.

    These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

    Padraic Hoselton - Réponse

    • Répétez la procédure précédente en haut de l'écran LCD.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger entre le châssis LCD et la plaque de protection en métal et appuyez doucement sur le haut de l'appareil pour décoller l'adhésif.

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    • Continuez du côté gauche de l'écran LCD : insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger entre l'écran LCD et la plaque de protection et faites-le avancer autant que possible.

    • À ce stade, l'écran LCD doit être décollé de l'adhésif qui le retient. Si ce n'est pas le cas, insérez le spudger sur le côté droit ou en haut pour dégager complètement l'écran LCD.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Soulevez l'écran LCD à quelques centimètres de la coque arrière pour vous assurer qu'il est exempt d'adhésif.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Deux larges bandes d'adhésif relient l'écran LCD aux haut-parleurs.

    • Tout en tenant l'écran LCD d'une main, insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'adhésif et le haut-parleur gauche.

    • Retirez doucement l'écran LCD des haut-parleurs tout en faisant pivoter le spudger vers l'extérieur pour séparer l'adhésif du haut-parleur.

    I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

    northstar - Réponse

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger dans l'espace entre le haut-parleur droit et l'adhésif du LCD.

    • Tout en retirant l'écran LCD des haut-parleurs, faites pivoter le spudger vers l'extérieur pour élargir l'espace et décoller l'adhésif du haut-parleur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retournez l'écran LCD et posez-le sur le dessus de la vitre du panneau frontal.

    • N'essayez pas d'enlever l'écran LCD de l'iPad, car il est toujours connecté par son câble de données.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les vis suivantes, fixant la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD à la coque arrière de l'iPad :

      • Deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,6 mm

      • Treize vis cruciformes #00 de 2,6 mm

      • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 1,7 mm supplémentaire sur certains modèles

    At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

    sandro - Réponse

    On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

    volty - Réponse

    On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

    gfriedman99 - Réponse

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger sous la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD, au milieu du côté inférieur de l'iPad.

    • Faites levier avec le spudger pour dégager la plaque des côtés de la coque arrière.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD de l'iPad.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #00 de 1,3 mm fixant le cache du connecteur à la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de ne pas substituer ces trois vis par d'autres vis, en particulier les vis qui fixent la plaque de protection de l'écran LCD à la coque arrière de l'iPad. Toute vis légèrement plus longue peut détériorer les trous des vis et endommager irréparablement la carte mère.

    Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

    jessabethany - Réponse

    Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

    Walter Galan -

    Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

    sandro - Réponse

    • Utilisez une pincette pour saisir et retirer de l'iPad le cache du connecteur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour retirer délicatement le connecteur de batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Soyez très prudent de faire levier seulement sur le connecteur de la batterie et non sur la prise elle-même. Vous risquez autrement de briser complètement le connecteur.

    Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

    Mattis - Réponse

    I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

    Grillwrecka -

    Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

    Andrew Kivell -

    There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

    jessabethany -

    After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

    While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

    Michael Vovaris - Réponse

    Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

    WolfyHD - Réponse

    I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

    Rory Filer - Réponse

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour retirer le connecteur LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne faites pas levier contre le grand IC à côté du connecteur, vous risqueriez de le casser. Faites délicatement levier sur côté du connecteur comme sur la photo.

    Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

    Michael Vovaris - Réponse

    • L'écran LCD est toujours connecté au reste de l'iPad par deux larges bandes de ruban adhésif qui passent de l'intérieur de la coque arrière à la partie avant du cadre LCD.

    • Tout en tenant l'écran LCD d'une seule main, insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre l'écran LCD et la bande adhésive sur le côté droit de l'iPad.

    • Faites glisser le spudger vers l'extérieur, en décollant la bande adhésive et en soulevant doucement l'écran LCD pour les décoller.

    • Il peut être utile de faire pivoter le spudger, pour agrandir l'écart et décoller l'écran LCD de la bande adhésive.

    Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

    Nick Hughes - Réponse

    When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

    Muhammed Kilic - Réponse

    When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

    Muhammed Kilic - Réponse

    Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

    Rory Filer - Réponse

    • Tout en tenant l'écran LCD d'une main, passez au côté gauche de l'iPad et répétez la procédure de l'étape précédente pour décoller le deuxième morceau de bande adhésive.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le cadre LCD et la bande adhésif, et faites-le glisser vers l'extérieur tout en soulevant doucement l'écran LCD.

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    • Soulevez et retirez de l'iPad mini l'écran LCD.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour tirer doucement le connecteur de la vitre tactile hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire levier de façon uniforme sur le connecteur et pas du tout sur la prise. La prise et le connecteur sont très fragiles et si vous endommagez un des deux, votre vitre tactile ne fonctionnera pas.

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    • Retirez délicatement de la coque arrière la carte de la nappe de la vitre tactile.

    Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

    Simon - Réponse

    • Soulevez et retirez le panneau frontal de l'iPad.

    == After step 55 ==

    Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

    Good Luck!!!!

    Mike - Réponse

    If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

    Mike -

    might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

    gfriedman99 - Réponse

    If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

    Jennifer Fordyce - Réponse

    Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

    northstar -

    • Si vous installez un nouveau panneau frontal complet, il peut être nécessaire de procéder comme suit :

      • Décollez les bandes plastiques recouvrant l'adhésif autour du panneau frontal.

      • Retirez le petit morceau de ruban adhésif sur la nappe de la vitre tactile.

    • Assurez-vous que tout le cuivre est recouvert sur l'écran de remplacement. Autrement, l'écran se déplacerait au hasard, une fois installé.

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - Réponse

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - Réponse

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - Réponse

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - Réponse

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - Réponse

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - Réponse

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - Réponse

    • Repliez la nappe de la vitre tactile sur elle-même et appuyez fermement pour fixer l'adhésif.

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - Réponse

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - Réponse

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - Réponse

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - Réponse

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - Réponse

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - Réponse

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - Réponse

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - Réponse

    • Avant d'installer votre nouveau panneau frontal, vous devrez transférer les aimants Smart Cover de votre ancien panneau frontal sur le nouveau.

    • Placez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique de chaque côté de l'aimant près du coin supérieur gauche du panneau frontal.

    • Calez soigneusement le bord de l'outil d'ouverture en plastique de droite sous l'aimant.

    • Maintenez-le fermement en place.

    • Calez l'outil d'ouverture en plastique gauche sous l'aimant et faites levier en le poussant vers l'outil d'ouverture en plastique droit.

    • Cela nécessitera une certaine force, car l'aimant Smart Cover est collé avec de l'adhésif solide.

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - Réponse

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - Réponse

    • Si nécessaire, utilisez une pincette pour retirer partiellement le morceau de ruban adhésif recouvrant l'aimant près du coin inférieur gauche du panneau frontal.

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    • Utilisez la procédure décrite précédemment pour retirer l'aimant Smart Cover près du coin inférieur gauche du panneau frontal.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Dans cette étape, vous transférez les aimants Smart Cover sur le NOUVEAU panneau frontal.

    • Utilisez une pincette pour placer soigneusement l'aimant supérieur gauche à sa place.

    • Répétez la procédure avec l'aimant inférieur gauche.

    • Si nécessaire, utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour aplatir le morceau de ruban adhésif sur l'aimant inférieur gauche.

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - Réponse

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - Réponse

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - Réponse

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - Réponse

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - Réponse

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - Réponse

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - Réponse

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - Réponse

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - Réponse


Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

387 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

Membre depuis le 17/10/2009

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48 commentaires

This really isn't that hard of a repair, I struggle more with iphones than an iPad. Just be careful and diligent when you work. Hardest part for me is the stupid adhesive haha

Brendan McDonnell - Réponse

ifixit is forgetting crucial steps in this repair. First off they need to make note of the small magnets on the back of the digitizer which are needed to use the smart cover feature on the ipad. And second they need to make note of the issues people are having with the touch acting up as soon as the digitizer is laid back down. you need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame. also the iopener burned my microwave, your better off just using a heatgun and guitar picks/spudger.

info - Réponse

Hi, I am having the exact issues where the touch is not responding. Where exactly do I need to put tape on the contacts of the digitizer so that it does not directly touch the frame? Can you explain in detail. Thanks.

yungwun619 -

Either it was updated or you overlooked it. For newcomers, the info implied about is covered in Step 60-63.

Keypad -

Again, ifixit leaves out a VERY important part that will BREAK the LCD if you forget to remove them. The sides of the LCD in the ipad mini has tape on it as well(you can even see the tape in the pictures above in the tutorial). If you do not remove this tape before inserting a tool under the sides of the LCD the LCD will BREAK! You must remove the foam ALL THE WAY AROUND THE LCD and peel back the tape from not only the top (as in the tutorial), but the sides of the LCD as well, holding it to the metal shield behind the LCD. The tape can be replaced, or re attached later, but it HAS to be removed before attempting removal of the LCD itself. I wish I would have known this before digging into the ipad mini. Fix the tutorial PLEASE!

Edward - Réponse

too LATE, I BROKE THE TAPE lcd =((((((

Quynh Vu -

I completed a repair using this guide this past weekend. It took 2.5 hours mostly because the screen was too shattered to use the suction cup, and I had to clean up all the little bits of glass and adhesive. But the repair was a success! The iPad worked perfectly after I was done with the rebuild. I did forget to put back the two mini magnets that were for the smart cover but it was too late and I wasn't too worried about it at that point. Thanks again for a great guide.

Gregory Caporale - Réponse

I was using the guide on the google app for Android and it was not as complete as this version on the website. Otherwise this was a great guide! Thanks again for the very detailed steps and photos.

Gregory Caporale - Réponse

The only issue I had was the screen was shattered and made the use of the suction cup useless. I just continued to heat and remove the shards of glass a little at a time.

paulmcneely - Réponse

Place clear packing tape or a screensaver on the shattered glass before you start and generally the suction cups will stick.

Patti Pender -

The adhesive on the packing tape will liquify under the heat of yhe iopener making it pretty useless. Heating and chipping seems to be the way to go. Ifixit eally should have adressed this ahead of time as i am assuming most people will be teplacing shattered screens. I mean why else would you go through this?

David Stotz -

Hopefully someone can help me. I have replaced the digitizer, but something is wrong. The digitizer is basically unresponsive, and acts like it is being touched in multiple places at once. This only happens when fully assembled. I tested with the digitizer NOT mounted to the chassis, and it works perfect. Is this a grounding problem?

bradj47 - Réponse

Do you have to replace the smart magnets? is this a necessary step if you do not use the smart covers?

Michael - Réponse

I didn't. No need.

Patti Pender -

This guide and the pictures are the best way to destroy your ipad, sorry to say so. If you insert the picks as deep as shown, you cut various wires such as the 3G antenna, the camera, the home button - all of them are placed on both narrow sides of the ipad. Further on you risk scratching the LCD surface, which consists of a dark foil that you may scratch off.

So to make it short: Fingers away from this guide!

dadoc - Réponse

There is no 3G antenna on the Wi-Fi version. Use the correct guide for your device and these issues go away.

The guide carries warnings where the cables and antennae are and cautions you where to place picks.

Patti Pender -

After connecting the new digitizer I plugged in the LCD the digitizer and the battery connectors, installed the metal shields and tried to power on the iPad. Unfortunately the screen is grey white while booting, only half the Apple is visible and upon booting the colours are strange but I can use both the digitizer and the home button. Do you think I damaged the LCD during the process or did I break anything on the motherboard?

finn2k1 - Réponse

I would check that the lcd cable isn't trapped or kinked under itself when plugged into the board. The iPhone 5 does exactly this when the cable isn't located spot on.

Gavin -

I did this over the weekend, took about 2 hours all told, as others have said cos the glass was shattered.

I found it very easy to just use a hairdryer to melt the glue enough to get the panel and digitiser off the chassis.

Unfortunately the home button is behaving a little oddly, and Im guessing its grounding out as it keeps kicking back to the home screen.

Ill report back when I have found out more.


Gavin - Réponse

This was my first attempt at repair. So I went with an older model. He's what I've learned. Quite a bit of attention was made to keep the digitizer connected to the device. In my case, I was replacing it, so it didn't make a difference if I kept the broken glass attached. It was pretty annoying to have glass all over the place (even after taping) when I could have just cut the ribbon cable. Secondly, as previously posted, bend your ribbon cable on the new digitizer FIRST. But, it's not clear how it should be bent. After folding the digitizer back, it becomes straightened back out a bit before you use it as an example for the new cable. It should really be folded up accordion style so that there's a tight backward S shape to it. If you don't get the fold right the first time, just reheat the corner, pull just enough on the suction cup to slide a guitar pick in and push the cable into it's little space where it belongs.

jefowler4th - Réponse

Good thing! I did it with success!!

Few things to make it easier for new users, said above but now clear.

- if your glas is shattered, its hard to remove it. But keep tryin it will work if you give it enough time.

- be careful at removing the lcd. The glue is holding it back on the metal plate. Slow an easy.

- bend the flex cable of the front panel before you reassemble. Or be very careful if you already reassembled but have to glue the glas onto the body. Push with a stump tool onto the cable until its an "s" and fits into the gap.

- finally, there are many versions of new glas. The adhesive isnt very strong on them. Maybe put some extra glue under the glas. Otherwise it wont stay fixed.

Good Luck

harry - Réponse

I did my iPad Mini repair yesterday, took me 4 hours because I was slow and careful and it was my first time with this device, and here is my 2 cents'worth:

If the glass is cracked I wouldn't bother with taping it. I put the tape on, found I couldn't proceed because I couldn't get any suction with the suction cup, so took the tape off again.

Disconnecting the battery and LCD connectors is a swings and roundabouts thing. If you leave them connected, especially the battery connector, and you short something, you have a bad situation. However, if you disconnect them, and in the process of doing so, you damage the delicate connector. that is also a bad situation. I did it without disconnecting them and it worked OK.

The tape over the copper contacts is important. I put ordinary clear tape over the contacts and I got random movements on the screen. Then I put a strip of electrical tape on top of that and the random movements improved. Then I put another strip of electrical tape on and it's OK now.

Peter Gray - Réponse

Another couple of things: the self adhesive strip around the edge of the new screen isn't anything like the original glue. It's OK for a temporary repair while you see if the thing works or not, but to make it permanent you really need to use iGlue or whatever Apple uses.

When I reassembled the unit I found that the front facing camera wasn't quite aligned with the spyhole in the front glass. This is because the camera is on a flexible mount which allows for a couple of millimetres movement in all directions. You just need to watch this when reassembling.

Peter Gray - Réponse

Mischief managed, though it would have been nice if there was process for changing out the home button. One I ordered did not come with one. Ended up going to YouTube to find a video on how to do those steps.

Greg Beaudry - Réponse

how to order a digitizer for ipad mini 1

kent bacalso - Réponse

Why didn't anyone cover how to tak out the home button and replace it in the new digitizer?

gocaps25 - Réponse

Troubles with the home button why isnt there steps on how to put it ?

Marvin - Réponse

The following should be added to this guide

Digitizer random touch after replacement

aRI - Réponse

How do you remove the old adhesive?

There is nothing in the repair kit to remove the adhesive.

Pierre St Gelais - Réponse

Did this fix the other day and everything works except the iPad won't charge past 2 percent and keeps restarting.

Any help on what is causing this?


Steve - Réponse

Did the repair everything works except the screen keeps acting like the magnet case is on and turning itself off at random I took the magnets out and am still having the same issue.

Robert - Réponse

Well the yellow tape that came with the new screen came off replaced it and works like it should make sure the yellow tape stays on the screen

Robert - Réponse

I did it. Everything whent smoodly but one small problem. The digitaser reads nothing. :( the button works.

Sandor Falkesund - Réponse

Didn't work. =( Did the whole replacement, seemed to go mostly okay, but when I powered the device back on the touchscreen is completely unresponsive. My daughter is very sad, and I'm out $60. All the connectors clicked into place, so I have no clue what I did wrong, or if the part is bad, but the thought of spending another 2+ hours re-doing it is more than I can stand.

bh - Réponse

I had successfully done 5 minis with no issues the last one had ghost touch then the digitizer died i think I damaged the digitizer flex I used kapton tape over the copper contacts this should stop the screen jumping and ghost touch be very careful when bending the digitizer flex it so easily damaged take time to get it right. For sticking the digitizer back down the adhesive supplied is not man enough to keep screen down on its own so I used IPAD ADHESIVE TAPE DOUBLE SIDED REDTAPE SUPER STRONG STICKY comes in different width's Easily got on eBay I found 'this worked the best and so far had no issues with digitizer lifting since using this tape

Jon maccallum - Réponse

Followed this to replace a broken LCD. Turned out I needed the front screen with digitizer. Word of warning: I might have been a bit rough removing the screen first time and damaged the digitizer.

Stephen - Réponse

After doing this repair the cameras aren't working... :( The camera app starts up and appears to be working with all the white buttons, but the screen is black. I can change between front and back camera (I see that it does it because one of the cameras has HDR.

I don't know what to do here. I've tried to reset it with the power- and home button but that doesn't fix it.

Any ideas?

Krister Turøy - Réponse

If you're on the fence about your abilities, give this a try. It really isn't too bad.

I decided to remove the old (shattered) digitizer with an Xacto knife as I had seen elsewhere. That made quick work of that stage, but I would recommend gloves and being extra careful on the sides. The rest is fairly familiar, a lot like an iPhone if you've ever repaired one of those.

Another tip is to use a magnet from your fridge to keep the right screws together.

Wesley Applequist - Réponse

The new adhesive doesn't stick very well and the side of the screen keeps popping up and I don't know what to do what should I do about this?

Peter Carlson - Réponse

Hi Peter! As with all adhesives it will work best on a clean surface. If you can pop the glass up without damaging it or the adhesive, you may be able to check for any dirt or leftover adhesive, and rub down the case with some isopropyl alcohol to clean up any grime or finger oils. You can also check for misplaced cables or other components that didn't settle back correctly. If you don't want to risk reopening the device, you may be able to help set the adhesive by applying light pressure for a few hours. Warning though, if there is a hard high-point on the case anywhere, adding pressure on the device may cause the glass to crack in that location. Stack a few mid-sized books on the iPad overnight to help activate the pressure sensitive adhesive, you don't need to press hard, just light pressure over time will help. You can also check out our Answers forum for more help. Good luck!

Sam Lionheart -

Me tomó como 3 horas completarlo por que fui super cuidadoso y pendiente para no cometer un error. Es tedioso por los detalles pero facil de hacer con las herramientas correctas (utilize las de ifixit). Si tienes prisa busca el dia adecuado para hacerlo con calma ya que vale la pena hacerlo uno mismo. Tener mucho cuidado al sacar el LCD y de eliminar bien la pega que tenia en el marco del digitizer para que selle bien el nuevo. Thank you ifixit!


Just completed this repair. Left the ipad out in the sun, playing music while I worked outside. It overheated, and afterwards exhibited “ghost touches” making it nearly impossible to use. It also had a dead spot on the touch screen just above the home button. Research indicated the digitizer was a likely suspect. Sure enough, that fixed it! These instructions were great. A few differences in what was taped and where as the LCD came out, but everything else was spot on. The kit I received from ifixit had kapton tape over some exposed copper at the bottom of the new screen assembly. That may have been all that was necessary, but I put some scotch tape over the copper touch screen traces at the bottom of the screen as well. The copper traces along both sides and the top appeared to be covered completely by a thin plastic sheet, just like the original screen, so I did not tape them. So far, no ghost touch behavior! Thanks for the great site!

Matt Mischnick - Réponse

My son dropped our iPad Mini 2 and the glass shattered. Other than that it works perfectly. My question is, do I have to replace the LCD or can I just buy the glass (much cheaper, around $20) and replace that? It seems that repair would be much simpler as well. Thanks in advance.

Richard Cacciato - Réponse

Hi Richard, sounds like you only need to replace the glass, although I highly recommend you buy a replacement digitizer that includes the home button. We also have iPad Mini 2-specific digitizer guides. You can find the iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi guide here, and the iPad Mini 2 cellular guide here.

Sam Lionheart -

Thanks, Sam. How can I tell for sure if I need to replace the digitizer as well or only the glass? As I said, the iPad seems to work perfectly other than the shattered glass.

Richard Cacciato - Réponse

Richard, my bad on terminology, the digitizer is embedded in the top glass, if the display is undamaged, then you won’t need to replace the LCD, just the digitizer/glass.

Sam Lionheart -

Successfully repaired cracked screen, although more difficult than I anticipated after replacing screens on iPhone 5 and 6. I should have read more of the comments before starting.

The packing tape I used wouldn’t hold suction after heating, find tape with heat resistant adhesive, or pick out multiple pieces.

When I removed the protective film from the inside of the new screen, the yellow tape covering the Home button ribbon came with it, which caused the Home button to short out when the screen was put in place. Replacing the yellow tape solved the problem.

kimhoover - Réponse

well i started this repair got the iopener and everything took it slow, got the glass of relised that it was the screen protector (am fixing for a friend). *facepalm* great practice though

GLaDOS .V42 - Réponse

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