Introduction
Remplacez votre disque dur poussif par un SSD rapide comme l'éclair.
Pièces
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm (14,1 mm).
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.
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Retirez le boîtier inférieur et mettez-le de côté.
After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?
16 GB is the max
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Retirez les deux vis Y1 Tri-Wing par lesquelles la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.
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Remarque : pour certaines réparations (disque dur, par exemple), le retrait de la batterie n'est pas indispensable, mais permet d'éviter un court-circuit accidentel sur les équipements électroniques de la carte mère. Si vous ne retirez pas la batterie, faites attention, car les composants de la carte mère peuvent être sous tension.
A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.
I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.
The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.
I believe they are Y1 screws, no?
Mark -
Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?
What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!
A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).
It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.
Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?
Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.
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Avec le bout du doigt, décollez avec soin l'angle de l'étiquette d'avertissement pour accéder à une vis Tri-Wing cachée.
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Retirez la dernière vis Y1 Tri-Wing par laquelle la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.
It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.
Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.
Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."
To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...
Thanks for that warning, Andrew.
Happened here too, thanks for the tip!
As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.
Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?
One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.
James -
Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver
Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)
I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?
new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.
Is this a battery from iFixit?
Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?
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Inclinez la batterie vers l'arrière suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur du câble de la batterie.
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Débranchez le câble de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.
I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.
Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?
I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.
Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.
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Retirez les deux vis Phillips par lesquelles le support du disque dur est fixé au boîtier supérieur.
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Soulevez le disque dur en tirant sur sa languette d'extraction et sortez-le du châssis, en faisant attention au câble qui le relie à l'ordinateur.
After having changed the drive my disk works some times only, other times not. Some times it will boot other times not. I see that the sleep indicator is not working. Might have damaged the cable? Thought I was really careful when changing the drive.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 de chaque côté du disque dur (quatre vis au total).
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Réutilisez ces vis sur le nouveau SSD.
i just successfully installed a Samsung spinpoint 1000Gb HDD.
yes 9.5 mm work fine!
Making your SATA3 drive work, in your early or late 2011 15"mbp:
If you are unfortunate, and have the "faster" SATA3 chipset for the optical bay, use a hard drive that is either ONLY SATA2 or has a bootable utility you can use to FORCE the drive to run at SATA2 (3gpbs) ONLY. Otherwise, the hard drive (in the optical bay) will NOT be recognizable by the system...This is a lesson in futility, but....There is a cure. I know for *SURE* if you use fast (as of 2014.08) HGST 7k1000 (model HTS721010A9E630), you will NOT be able to run it at 6Gbps. You WILL be able to run it at 3Gbps though, and that beats 0Gbps!
1. Get the HDDFT10.iso (from here: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.p... ),
2. Burn it to a CD
3. Plug in a USB keyboard WITH FUNCTION KEYS (You WILL need them)
4. Holding down the Option key, select the CD when you boot up
5. When prompted, hit F1 to change drives
6. Hit F3 to change to 3Gbps
7. Reboot
8. *POOF* magic Pixie Dust rains down upon you...and your MBP
If you want to install OSX on it, this is what I've done (without a USB or bootable drive). First, if you're replacing the hard drive with the SSD (for example), then you just need to plug in the harddrive you replaced and boot it up via USB. Format the new hard drive you installed as a Mac OS Journal (eg: a drive that Mac understands it can install an OS on). Then, restart the computer, press CMD+OPT+R to start up the internet recovery off of the USB-attached hard drive, which will allow you to install a copy of Lion or Mavericks or Yosemite (depends on what was on your old hard drive) to the new one within the computer.
So far, It's installing and it seems to be doing amazingly well.
Kratsgfixit-
Could you format the new drive before taking out the old one and replacing it? I'd rather know I had it formatted correctly, etc....before taking the old one out and putting a new SSD in. Could I just put the new SSD into one of those eSata drive holders (sorry can't remember official name) that connects via USB and do it using the instructions you provided in your post?
Liz -
Can I use this? http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD...
The nuts sticking out of the hard drive are definitely not T6 Torx, the smallest key in my hex set worked, which I believe says .05 inches on it.
Yes. .05 worked. Thank you.
I had to reset the SMC after installation to fix the fan noise (https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295).
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce guide.
337 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
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17 commentaires
I went all over the place trying to find that stupid 7.4 mm Tri-Wing bit or driver to remove the battery per your instructions then I took a harder look and realized there was no need for all that SMFH!
We have you remove the battery because as long as it is connected, certain components on the logic board are electrified. If you accidentally drop something metallic on the board or touch the wrong part with a screwdriver, you could fry the board be out another $700+.
I bought the 1TB and the tool kit. Got it today. The step by step directions made it a piece of cake. Afterwards I booted up my MacBook Pro off of my system software cd. The new hard drive didn't show up so I called iFixit and talked to Scott. He told me how to format my drive and had me up and running in about 2 minutes. You guys are awesome! My computer works great and I went from a maxed out 500 GB hard drive to a full 1 TB Hybrid hard drive. Thanks for the new lease on life.
So, SSD´s can replace an the original HDD without any sort of fitting?
Thanks for instructions, I ordered the triwing screw driver especially to shoe in my Tb SSD.
This allowed me to disconnect the battery, there were a couple of minor reboot issues, but my main problem is that my battery has stopped charging. The little green light stays on, whilst the battery although acknowledging it is connected isn't charging.
Any tips? People have talked about SMC, which will be first move, followed by reconnecting the battery cable.
Thanks though for the guide a big help, onwards and upwards!
I bought a Samsung EVO 1tb SSD for my mid 2010 Macbook Pro to replace the 500gb HDD. Swapping the drives around is no problem. The problem is, getting the MBP to recognize the SSD via a SATA adaptor with a USB 3 connector. My MBP only has USB 2 but I thought it would still work with the USB 3/SATA adaptor? Someone call me a dumb ass so I can move on! The SATA is not registering at all on my Finder or anywhere else on the Macbook. The SATA/USB3 cost me £50. Is there another way to transfer the data so I can still reboot without having to reinstall OSX? Ten questions in one I know.
Hi guys, I would like to ask for some help. I bought the 1 TB SSHD Hybrid 2.5" Hard Drive from Seagate and used the external USB case to transfer all data from the old internal disk to the new SSHD.
Currently the new SSHD is not being readable by my Mac Book Pro Unibody 15" 2.66 GHz (Mid 2010) when I use the USB external connection. The Pop-Up Window tells me The disk you inserted was not readable by this computer".
Question 1: Do I need to initialize the new disk?
Question 2: What exactly is an initialization
As soon as I got the new disk running via external USB access, how can I copy the entire data kit incl. mac os Software from the old disk to the new one.
Thanks a lot for your support.
Maplins they sell a tool kit for £9 with all right mini screwheads Naplins 17 piece smartphone repair kit
Blow me down ! It took exactly 40 minutes and it worked like a charm! Thanks !!!one flabbergasted 51 year old lady …
After replacing the drive, how do i transfer my software & install Mac OS on the new drive?
Used this guide to replace my stock Hitachi HDD with an Intel SSD. I also figured I would replace the battery while I had the case open, it had almost 700 charge cycles and about 70% capacity remaining. My MBP has been running like hot garbage, literally. The fans would spin up and it would get dangerously hot near the upper left of the keyboard just doing mundane tasks like web browsing. It would chug along and I’d get the beach ball constantly. I decided to reset the SMC while I had the battery out as well out just to be safe. After the repairs were done my laptop booted up perfectly on the first try and it’s running like new again. Great guide and I hope this comment helps anybody having the same issues as I was.
This guide was of great help! Thank again iFixit!
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - Réponse
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - Réponse
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - Réponse
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - Réponse
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - Réponse
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - Réponse
for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy
mindful - Réponse
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - Réponse
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - Réponse
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - Réponse
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - Réponse
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - Réponse
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - Réponse
Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.
Danno - Réponse
Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?
If so, what is the best way to do this?
Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.
Sibyl Smith - Réponse
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - Réponse