Introduction

Remplacez l'écran LCD sans l'inverseur, les nappes et les cadres.

Vidéo d'introduction

  1. À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.
    • À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.

    I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

    ServiceDocs - Réponse

    This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

    Thanks again!

    skraggle - Réponse

    Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

    Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

    mikeutter - Réponse

    Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

    Mike Woodruff - Réponse

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Calvin - Réponse

    Quote from Calvin:

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

    skraggle - Réponse

    Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

    josefsalyer - Réponse

    Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

    Peter Wood - Réponse

    i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

    howard bederman -

    Outstanding guide - thank you!

    owen bullock - Réponse

    My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?

    Beth Tomasek - Réponse

    Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!

    Loy Lum - Réponse

    Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.

    Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

    Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…

    Aaron Cooke - Réponse

    Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.

    harwood - Réponse

  2. Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.
    • Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.

    I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.

    Jean Wallemacq - Réponse

    I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!

    See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....

    Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.

    Jean Wallemacq - Réponse

    • Dévissez les trois vis Phillips espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.

    • Les vis sont intégrées au capot métallique de la mémoire, vous ne pouvez donc pas les perdre.

    please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

    manochu - Réponse

    Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

    decristoforo - Réponse

    The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!

    Wytchkraft - Réponse

    I found when putting this back in that I had to use a spudger to work the mesh/foam into the slot where the memory cards are so the bracket would lay flat again when screwed back in.

    slwatts2 - Réponse

    What size screwdriver

    edward greene - Réponse

    • Faites pivoter le capot de la mémoire en forme de L de manière à dégager l'ouverture du compartiment de la batterie, soulevez-le et sortez-le de l'ordinateur.

    That looks so easy!

    caiden rutledge - Réponse

    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :

      • Une vis Phillips n°00 11 mm au milieu du boîtier (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

      • Deux vis Phillips n°00 14,5 mm (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

    • Si les vis adhèrent au boîtier, vous pouvez utiliser un tournevis aimanté pour les sortir.

    • La plus courte de ces vis est celle du milieu.

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    ryan64 - Réponse

    Quote from ryan64:

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

    Alaerus - Réponse

    The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

    HandyMac - Réponse

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

    manochu - Réponse

    I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

    Alice - Réponse

    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :

      • Une vis Phillips n°0 3 mm (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

      • Deux vis Phillips n°0 4 mm de chaque côté (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

      • Soyez particulièrement prudent avec ces vis. Elles s'abîment très facilement.

    On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

    The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

    LaNoobieFixer - Réponse

    On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

    scottgriz - Réponse

    I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

    HandyMac - Réponse

    Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

    Thomas -

    My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

    Ernie K -

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

    If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever

    Ike Broflovski -

    I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

    Eliotus - Réponse

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    BeatJunkie - Réponse

    please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

    manochu - Réponse

    Quote from BeatJunkie:

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

    Cong Trieu - Réponse

    For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

    Paul Collins - Réponse

    I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

    doublel - Réponse

    In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

    Julien Lesage - Réponse

    Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.

    quentinlow - Réponse

    me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.

    Johhnie Doe -

    Stripped a head on my left screw (A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz). Used a precision 1.5 slotted screwdriver to get enough bite to screw it out and back in.

    Daniel - Réponse

    I couldn't get the suggested Phillips #0 tip to grab. PH#00 worked, but I found the PH#000 to work the best.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    I found this step to be the hardest to put back because of the angle - even with iFixIt's driver Flex Extension.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).

      • Deux vis Phillips n°000 6,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

    Cong Trieu - Réponse

    Screwdriver PH0

    Projectors Band - Réponse

    • Retirez les quatre vis Phillips indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.

      • Quatre vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 4 mm).

    It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.

    The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    I used PH0 for this

    Projectors Band - Réponse

    • Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :

    • Les vis les plus longues vont à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur, les plus courtes à l'extérieur.

      • Deux vis Phillips n°00 11 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,2 mm x longueur 2 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

      • Deux vis Phillips n°00 7,25 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2 mm x longueur 3,75 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

    ptb - Réponse

    I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

    David A - Réponse

    I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?

    Olivia - Réponse

    Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.

    Jakub Clapa -

    Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.

    Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!

    S van Dam -

    When reassembling, do not fully tighten the two 11 mm (orange) screws. When the plastic starts to flex, back it off until the strain on the plastic housing is released and leave it at that. The two 7.25 mm (red) can be snug.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips du côté de l'ordinateur correspondant au lecteur optique.

      • Deux vis Phillips n°00 5,2 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,3 mm x longueur 3,5 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    • Il est inutile de retirer les vis similaires présentes de l'autre côté de l'ordinateur.

    The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?

    Aidan Morey - Réponse

    With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!

    S van Dam -

    • Ne retirez pas complètement le boîtier supérieur, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par le ruban du pavé tactile et du clavier.

    • En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Vous pouvez vous aider d'un médiator moyennement rigide pour cette opération.

    • Le boîtier supérieur risque d'adhérer à l'endroit où il est en contact avec le lecteur optique. Dans ce cas, dégagez d'abord les autres côtés, puis tirez sur le boîtier de chaque côté de l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    • Si vous laissez la base posée, il se peut que vous retiriez quatre clips gris qui maintiennent le clavier en place. Pas de panique ! Ils s'insèrent dans quatre fentes situées dans le coin supérieur droit près du lecteur optique.

    There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

    tim7866 - Réponse

    No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

    Ernie K -

    Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

    Dako - Réponse

    As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

    David Higgins - Réponse

    I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

    manochu - Réponse

    The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

    James Pearson Hughes - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip. Saved me!

    Joe -

    Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

    Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

    Thomas - Réponse

    When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

    Andrew Dent - Réponse

    I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

    Eliza - Réponse

    If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

    frood - Réponse

    Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.

    Neil Steiner -

    The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

    Henry S - Réponse

    On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

    Hendryk1982 - Réponse

    this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

    Chinarut Ruangchotvit - Réponse

    • Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main, tirez sur la languette noire du câble argenté pour débrancher son connecteur.

    • S'il n'y a pas de languette, servez-vous d'un spudger et faites levier sur le connecteur afin de le débrancher. Le connecteur est haut. Veillez à le maintenir bien droit pendant l'opération.

    • Si vous rompez le câble lors du retrait du boîtier supérieur, sachez que vous pouvez l'acquérir en tant que pièce détachée et que nous proposons un guide pour faciliter son remplacement.

    • Une fois le boîtier supérieur démonté, vous aurez peut-être envie de saisir l'opportunité de le débarrasser de cheveux, de poussière, etc. Le mieux, c'est d'utiliser un petit soufflet, même si vous pouvez prendre une brosse. Si c'est la cas, veillez à utiliser des poils naturels non électrostatiques pour ne pas nuire aux composants électroniques.

    • Quatre clips en plastique gris sont présents sur le côté du clavier correspondant au lecteur optique. Lors du remontage, veillez à bien les insérer dans leurs logements pour que le clavier s'enclenche en position.

    • Pour faciliter le remontage, il est préférable de retirer les clips d'abord en tirant vers le haut doucement. Faites attention de ne pas mettre trop de force parce qu'ils casseront..

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

    spi - Réponse

    The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

    Chris - Réponse

    I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

    Roger - Réponse

    I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

    Takuma - Réponse

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    carlos - Réponse

    Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

    Harry - Réponse

    it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

    manochu - Réponse

    After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

    jgreengold - Réponse

    Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

    jgreengold - Réponse

    Quote from carlos:

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    E Chambliss - Réponse

    Quote from E Chambliss:

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    carlos - Réponse

    Quote from carlos:

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    Francisco - Réponse

    Citation de Francisco :

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

    carlos - Réponse

    Quote from spi:

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

    How do you do it? I can't get it out

    Superb guide thank you guys

    eli - Réponse

    This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

    Andrew Dent - Réponse

    Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

    eaksut - Réponse

    Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.

    Johhnie Doe - Réponse

    After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(

    Sorry my bad english!

    glecyo medeiros - Réponse

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique blanc fixée au disque dur et tirez-la vers la gauche pour retirer le disque dur de l'ordinateur.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips du bord avant du lecteur optique.

      • Deux vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm, (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,3 mm)

    After installing the caddy successfully, I could not make the screw on the right fit in again. The distance between the hole and the caddy seemed to be too big.

    ThomasKS - Réponse

    !! I can't remove the left screw, and ended up "screwing" it.. it's a round hole now. What should I do?

    wkurosawa - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble-ruban orange du lecteur optique de la carte mère. Pour débrancher ce câble, vous pouvez également utiliser un spudger pour le soulever en faisant levier.

    Pull straight up from the left

    tjkredo - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran qui est à présent accessible. Si aucune languette d'extraction n'est présente sur le dessus du connecteur, vous pouvez vous servir d'un spudger pour débrancher ce connecteur.

    The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.

    supershibbydude1 - Réponse

    Pull the connector firmly straight up.

    Eric - Réponse

    I have found over the years that a connector puller is invaluable in these situations. I believe that I bought mine from iFixit. In steps 16 and 17 you'll have to partially de-route two cables at the base of the connectors in order to get a good grip with the connector puller.

    randy3833 - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble du disque dur auquel vous avez maintenant accès.

    This step is not necessary

    nycstb - Réponse

    Left Off Here

    velopro - Réponse

    When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!

    mrphiliprichard - Réponse

    I've found it very useful to take photos of wire routing on disassembly for later reference.

    randy3833 - Réponse

    • Décollez le ruban adhésif alu entre le ventilateur et le lecteur optique. Enlevez le ruban du côté du ventilateur et laissez-le sur le lecteur optique.

    • Lors du réassemblage, faites attention de bien positionner les câbles sous le ruban adhésif avant de les recoller.

    I was gently pulling up the tape with a spudger, but the tape snapped clean in half right at the edge of the optical drive. I'm really pretty surprised because I see no reason why it would have done that.

    Neil Steiner - Réponse

    Leave the foil on the fan side cause you’ll be taking it off the optical drive anyway

    Luke - Réponse

    • Tirez vers le haut le câble de données de l'écran, qui longe le côté du lecteur optique de manière à avoir accès à une vis Phillips argentée.

    I had to unscrew a screw securing flat ribbons keeping cables in position between beeper and fan to reach for the dvd screw

    t0m - Réponse

    • Retirez la vis Phillips de 2 mm par laquelle est fixé le lecteur optique.

    • Il est possible que la vis soit recouverte par le câble Bluetooth ; dans ce cas, déplacez précautionneusement ce dernier avant de retirer la vis.

    STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.

    xtian - Réponse

    As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.

    Ernie K -

    After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.

    Tom Roinisto - Réponse

    Please add this notes to the actual step. I missed the comments and bent the bracket.

    huso - Réponse

    I used a #000 Phillips.

    Eric - Réponse

    I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.

    patjmccarthy - Réponse

    There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.

    Leo LeBron - Réponse

    As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!

    muir mackean - Réponse

    • Soulevez la carte Bluetooth sur le côté droit du lecteur optique.

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    • Déroutez le câble du disque dur qui passe à l'avant du lecteur optique.

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    • Soulevez le bord avant du lecteur optique et faites-le glisser vers le haut pour le sortir de l'ordinateur.

    On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.

    armin - Réponse

    • Dévissez les 3 vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm à côté du haut-parleur droit.

      • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm fixée à travers un trou dans un dispositif en plastique au-dessus du caisson de basse.

    • Veillez à ne pas trop serrer la vis au-dessus du caisson de basse, le plastique pourrait craquer.

    • Les MacBook Santa Rosa et Penryn n'ont pas cette pièce de support. Si vous démontez un de ces modèles, dévissez seulement l'unique vis cruciforme de 3 mm du haut-parleur droit et sautez l'étape 26.

    If you don’t have the c-channel it seems you can skip steps 24, 25, and 26.

    mike s - Réponse

    Santa Rosa and Penryn use a #000 phillips for the speaker screw.

    Eric - Réponse

    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit de son emplacement et mettez-le de côté.

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    • Si vous avec un modèle Santa Rosa/Penryn, sautez cette étape.

    • Avec une spatule, faites délicatement levier pour ouvrir la fente en plastique blanc, glissez le profilé métallique vers la droite et enlevez-le de l'écran.

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    • Avec une spatule (spudger), déconnectez soigneusement le câble du microphone de la carte mère. Travaillez d'un côté à l'autre et faites sortir lentement le connecteur de sa prise en le remuant.

    • En tirant sur ce connecteur verticalement, vous pouvez briser la prise sur la carte mère. Ce connecteur doit être retiré horizontalement en tirant doucement le câble du microphone vers l'écran et en travaillant avec une spatule entre le connecteur et la prise.

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    • Soulevez le câble noir du haut-parleur droit d'une main et enlevez le câble du microphone du clip en métal argenté juste au-dessus de la fente de la RAM de droite.

    • On ne trouve pas ce clip en métal dans tous les modèles. Assurez-vous que le câble est dégagé du clip de retenue dans cette zone avant de poursuivre .

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    • Si vous n’avez pas retiré la vis de mise à terre lors de l'étape 20, faites-le maintenant . C’est une vis cruciforme Phillips de 7 mm (peut être de 4,2 mm dans les modèles Santa Rosa/Penryn) fixant la mise à terre du câble du haut-parleur droit et du câble du microphone au châssis métallique.

    Put close attention to how the cables are laid out to get the same staking order, when reassembling I did not care about the order and as a result they were not as "Flat" as before and made the DVD drive insertion a bit more hard as it did not sit as deep as it should, so I had to re arrange the cables and once they were right the DVD drive sat perfectly. I would suggest taking a photo before re-routing them.

    Daniel - Réponse

    For the second time that I changed an inverter I skipped to disconnect the microphone cable (steps 27 to 30) because it's really hard to wiggle the connector out of its socket and it looks very fragile.

    By doing this you can not move the display assembly far from the case BUT it's not a problem for the next steps (front bezel and clutch cover).

    I won time and did not have to replace display and microphone cables what is not easy because of the lack of place and if the SuperDrive is compressed it can block CDs.

    Not sure if that will help...

    Charlocom -

    • Dégagez le câble du microphone et le câble noir de données de l'écran des onglets fixés en bas du caisson de basse.

    Is the silver wire really the microphone? I noticed wear right down to the wire on mine, and the macbook often has yellow/goofy looking screen, then adjusting the angle helps.

    Luke - Réponse

    On my Penryn model, it helped to deroute the data display cable and the microphone cable from under the tabs of the subwoofer by loosening the two Phillips screws to the right of the speaker.

    randy3833 - Réponse

    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 3 mm, qui fixe la mise à terre du câble de données de l’écran, se trouvant juste au-dessus de la carte Bluetooth .

    The ground screw also holds down a ground loop that is part of the speaker cable. The two loops may be stuck together so you need to carefully separate them.

    kyoungdale - Réponse

    • Débranchez les trois câbles d'antenne de la carte Airport. Il peut y avoir un morceau de mousse carré sur le connecteur de la carte mère.

    • Débranchez le câble de l'inverseur en insérant la spatule entre le bord droit ou gauche de la fiche et en la soulevant doucement. (Ne retirez PAS toute la prise de la carte mère, tirez sur la fiche depuis l'intérieur de la prise.) La fiche de l'inverseur se tire verticalement. Ne tirez pas vers les fils de connexion, vous arracheriez le connecteur.

    • Si vous avez un MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, il n'y a que deux câbles d'antenne et le câble noir de l'inverseur est situé ailleurs.

    Don't pry the plastic connector from the board, but rather, the plastic connector is two pieces. Separate them.

    Joscon5 - Réponse

    For the MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn: the inverter cable is a bit tricky. I was fooled into thinking that there were pins which went INTO the inverter cable. Because of this, I was afraid of lifting up on the cable (off the board), but this is what you actually must do to separate them.

    For clarification, here's a pic (low-res, sorry) of the inverter cable disconnected from it's on-board plug: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_l0f6yKkaxDU/S0FOHS...

    jetrost - Réponse

    The inverter connector comes off vertically from the motherboard.

    James - Réponse

    Can I get a replacement connecter that the inverter cable connects to and solder it on? I broke mine taking to of how it says in the guide

    edward - Réponse

    i also broke mine off the motherboard on accident. it appears to be a fairly clean break. is there anyone who has had luck soldering them back on?

    michael -

    Antenna connectors pull up.

    Eric - Réponse

    About disconnecting the inverter cable. I had more luck wedging the pointed end of spludger between the PCB near the cables and the shoulder of the connector nearest the display. I then pushed the pointed end of the spludger away from the display and the connector popped up off the socket. when trying to use the spludger on the sides of the socket, i deformed the plastic edges of the socket.

    Linda Vanasupa - Réponse

    This worked well for me too.

    Jeremiah Banks -

    Pull vertical for santa rose models as well, be delicate with this part, very tricky.

    Abraham Q - Réponse

    The inverter cable was fine if a little fiddly, but I can't get the antenna cables back on at all - anyone got any ideas? Even with bright lights and magnifiers I can't see why they won't go back in. (And I don't know why ifixit thinks I'm called facebook -- Sam)

    facebook - Réponse

    ... and of course as soon as I ask for help I find the answer. Don't try to push the plug vertically into the socket on the Airport board, start it at an angle with the cable running up and away from you towards the screen, then rock it back horizontal and it just clicks into place. -- Sam

    facebook -

    A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.

    randy3833 - Réponse

    After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.

    randy3833 - Réponse

    • Retirez les 2 vis suivantes de la charnière de droite :

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 6 mm sur le côté gauche de la charnière.

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm sur le côté droit de la charnière.

    • Pour les modèles Santa Rosa/Penryn, voir la deuxième image et enlever :

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 3 mm et de plus petit diamètre tout à gauche.

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 5,2 mm et d'un diamètre de 4,2 mm au milieu.

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm tout à droite.

    • Démontez la charnière droite avec la petite pièce en plastique et enlevez-la de l'ordinateur.

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    • Maintenez l'écran d'une main tout en retirant les vis de la charnière gauche.

    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la charnière gauche :

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 7,2 mm et de plus petit diamètre à droite.

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 5,2 mm et de plus grand diamètre au milieu .

      • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm à gauche.

    • Soulevez la charnière gauche avec la pièce en plastique et sortez-la de l'ordinateur.

    • Vérifiez que les câbles à droite ne sont pas cachés par d'autres câbles.

    I tried this last night and the screen fell backward, cracking the components of the hinge. Be careful and support the screen here once you unscrew the hinges!

    TheLordSmurf - Réponse

    What is that plastic hinge thingie called in step 34. The piece broke and I'd like to replace that.

    shawniemichael8 - Réponse

    • Saisissez l'ensemble écran des deux côtés, soulevez-le et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.

    For those wishing to go further into the LCD, the steps are identical to the MB CD, see this repair guide for more:

    Remplacement de l'inverseur du MacBook Core Duo

    MC25 - Réponse

    • Les étapes suivantes sont les mêmes pour le MacBook blanc et le noir.

    • Avec une fine carte en plastique, détachez les clips fixant le cadre de l'écran et l'ensemble écran. Il y a cinq clips le long du côté gauche du cadre de l'écran.

    • Ne prenez pas une carte irremplaçable en cas de dégât. Les clips sont difficiles à ouvrir et la carte peut se plier et se casser, ce qui la rendrait inutilisable.

    When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.

    The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn’t fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.

    mike s - Réponse

    Hello I've seen a video on Youtube where the guy skipped all the previous steps and got to the inverter without taking the screen off. Seems like it saves a lot of time and potential problems, since I have never done anything like this. Does anyone recommend doing it? I see it's more accessible to just try to get to the inverter without taking the screen off first.

    Miquel - Réponse

    • Continuez à détacher les clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran complet.

    • Faites attention quand vous travaillez près de la caméra iSight.

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    • Ensuite, détachez les cinq clips fixant le cadre de l'écran sur le côté droit.

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    • Soulevez le cadre de l'écran par le haut et détachez les clips le long du bord inférieur du cadre de l'écran avec votre carte en plastique.

    • Veillez à ce que la carte se trouve entre le châssis en métal autour du panneau LCD et le cadre de l'écran et ne touche pas le panneau LCD même.

    • Après avoir détaché tous les clips de retenue, soulevez le cadre de l'écran et ôtez-le de l'ensemble écran.

    A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

    It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

    These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

    WillyDavidK - Réponse

    This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.

    For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.

    Another note:

    The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.

    Quote from WillyDavidK:

    A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

    It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

    These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

    MC25 - Réponse

    • Parfois, lors du retrait du cadre de l'écran, les clips de retenue, qui devraient rester pris dans les fixations de l'écran LCD, partent avec le cadre de l'écran. Suivez cette étape et la suivante pour retransférer les clips sur la fixation de l'écran LCD.

    • Avec une spatule en métal ou un autre outil fin, faites doucement levier pour enlever les clips en plastique gris des attaches moulées dans le cadre de l'écran. Un tournevis plat de 0,8 mm peut être utile pour cette étape.

    • Faites attention car les clips sont en plastique fin et donc fragiles.

    I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!

    Iron Kettle - Réponse

    The plastic clips deform easily, making it difficult to reuse them. The tabs on the back of the bezel that fit into the clips also break off easily.

    If any of the tabs or clips are omitted, the bezel will not lie flush nor will it hold the cables that run beneath it in place.

    Wear gloves while wrangling with the white bezel—like the white topcase, the matte-finish plastic is very porous and quickly gets grubby.

    CG Hughes - Réponse

    • Insérez l'extrémité la plus longue du clip de retenue dans le trou creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD.

    • Avec la spatule en métal, enfoncez l'extrémité plus courte de l'autre côté du clip de retenue dans le trou creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD.

    • La deuxième photo montre la fixation de l'écran LCD montée correctement.

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    • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 4,2 mm fixant le cache charnière.

    In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)

    GotMac - Réponse

    • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran d'une main, enlevez le cache charnière des gonds de la charnière de l'autre.

    • Il peut être utile d'agiter le cache charnière de gauche à droite quand vous le séparez de l'écran.

    There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.

    Iron Kettle - Réponse

    • Soulevez le côté droit du cache charnière et guidez le câble de données de l'écran et la nappe iSight à travers le trou dans le cache charnière.

    • Ôtez le cache charnière de l'ensemble écran.

    • Lors du remontage, veillez à ne pas coincer la nappe du rétroéclairage (avec le connecteur blanc) quand vous remettez le cache charnière en place. La nappe est composée de deux fils visibles menant à la partie inférieure droite de l'écran LCD. (Certains modèles sont munis de fils rose et blanc qui sont plus longs et se coincent plus facilement.)

    Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.

    maccentric - Réponse

    • Retirez le petit morceau de bande adhésive en mousse fixées en bas de l'écran, au-dessus de chacun des caches du cadre.

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    • Avec une spatule (spudger), faites glisser le cache gauche du cadre vers le panneau LCD.

      • Ne soulevez pas verticalement le cache ! Contrairement au grand cadre de l'écran, celui-ci est maintenu en place par des clips horizontaux qui se cassent facilement.

    • Ôtez le cache gauche du cadre de l'ensemble écran.

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    • Avec une spatule, faites glisser le cache droit du cadre vers le panneau LCD.

    • Ôtez le cache droit du cadre de l'ensemble écran.

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    • Soulevez l'inverseur légèrement hors de l'écran et déconnectez la nappe du rétroéclairage du côté droit.

    • Remettez l'inverseur en place.

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    • Dévissez l'unique vis cruciforme de 3,2 mm fixant le câble de données de l'écran au gond droit de la charnière.

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    • Retirez le câble de données d'écran de son emplacement sous le bras de la charnière droite.

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    • Dévissez les douze vis cruciformes de 4,2 mm fixant l'ensemble LCD au capot arrière de l'écran.

    • Faites attention à la façon dont la nappe du microphone (et la nappe de l'antenne sur certains modèles) est placée tout autour des deux vis les plus proches du bas de l'écran (à droite comme à gauche). Les nappes s'endommagent facilement si elles ne sont pas placées correctement au moment de revisser ces vis.

    For the re-install, the cables that run along the sides of the LCD display do not follow the entire length of the display on either side. Both the iSight cable and the Airport antenna cables come away from the sides of the display about 3" from the corner where the hinges are. They move to the outside around the aluminum hinge supports. This is important so the cables do not get pinched and the bezel can snap into place.

    kyoungdale - Réponse

    Finding the correct route for these cables took some head scratching but the end result worked fine. In hindsight some more detailed pictures of the cable positioning when re-installing would be helpful. I also found that previous Apple authorised repairers had lost screws and removed tape, and charged me £400 for the priviledge.

    Keir -

    • Ôtez l'ensemble LCD du capot arrière de l'écran, en évitant d'accrocher les nappes.

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    • Faites attention à ne pas perdre le petit aimant le long du côté gauche de l'écran. Il pourrait rester accroché au châssis du LCD ou au capot arrière de l'écran. Lors du montage, veillez à ce que le côté court soit orienté cers le haut.

    “Make sure to replace the sleep magnet with the shorter edge facing up.”

    Hi, could you please explain to me how and where exactly should be placed this small magnet? I didn’t noticed it when I dismounted and now, from the image, I do not understand where it should be. If you can also explain to me what is it for I’ll double thank you …

    mdirenzo - Réponse

    This is quite an important step, as misplacing the magnet will mean that the display will not sleep at all when the cover is closed (which is what happened when I had my broken screen replaced).

    udorotheo - Réponse

    • Tournez l'ensemble du panneau LCD de sorte que l'écran est en bas. Il vaut mieux étendre une pièce de tissu sur votre surface de travail pour éviter de rayer l'écran.

    • Décollez les bandes adhésives jaunes fixant le câble de données de l'écran et la nappe iSight à l'arrière du panneau LCD.

    • Vous devez transférer l'adhésif à votre nouvel écran lors du remontage de l'ordinateur.

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    • Déconnectez le câble de données de l'écran de la face arrière de l'écran.

    When I worked at an Apple Authorized Repair Center one thing I remember from this step was to make sure to remove this cable straight down because it is easy to bend and damage the connection.

    nephite - Réponse

    • Déconnectez la nappe iSight du haut de l'écran.

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    • Soulevez le câble de données de l'écran et la nappe iSight et mettez-les de côté. Il n'est pas nécessaire de les retirer complètement de l'ensemble écran.

    • Enlevez la nappe du microphone du côté droit de l'ensemble LCD.

    • Sur les modèles Core 2 Duo, enlevez aussi la nappe d'antenne du côté droit de l'ensemble LCD.

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    • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm le long du bord gauche de l'écran.

    The iSight cable should be pulled down toward the bottom of the screen, not pulled up vertically away from the screen.

    sbmonkey - Réponse

    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm fixant le support iSight en haut de l'écran.

    • Veillez à dévisser les vis fixant la fixation métallique au bord de l'écran et non pas les vis sur la carte iSight même.

    • Si vous remplacez votre écran par un nouveau, il est possible que votre pièce de rechange n'ait pas ces deux trous de vis. Ce n'est pas grave. Vous pouvez toujours remonter votre ordinateur sans ces vis.

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    • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm le long du bord droit de l'écran.

    Do not forget the two square foam pieces at the bottom of the display. My new display did not have them.

    huso - Réponse

    • Soulevez le panneau LCD par le bord inférieur et faites-le glisser hors des fixations métalliques.

    If you're replacing the display then take the time to make sure you've trasfered anything across that you may need. For example there are two sticky foam blocks at the bottom corners. You can see them in the picture above

    Marc Carroll - Réponse

    I was able to successfully complete this guide and go all the way back putting the machine back together with a new LCD from iFixIt. Unfortunately the LCD was DOA. I tried the old broken LCD (it was cracked, but showed some graphics, so I know it worked as it should). Because the repair job was a rush job, I had to get a new LCD from elsewhere and completed it the first time. Needless to say, doing this guide 6 times I learned a lot about this little guy. Bad LCD purchase, but I think I'd still buy from iFixIt again--we just had bad luck with one part here.

    John Adam Wickliffe - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.

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11 commentaires

This guide is fantastic and has worked well for me. As other commenters have said and noted in the "Difficult" difficulty, it does require some skill and repair knowledge. The most important thing here is to keep track of your screws. I use a bead organizer for some perspective. All things said and done, be patient, keep your head, have the right tools and this fix is a piece of cake.

Takahashi - Réponse

The directions are excellent! I did it... and it worked!!! The whole thing took me about 2 hours or so. While you have the computer apart, it's probably a good idea to replace the backlight inverter too (only about $20). I used the top and bottom of an egg carton to sort the screws by step, then reassembled using the screws in reverse order.

Jordan - Réponse

Quick Question: I seem to have an "extra" cable on my White Macbook (2007, IIRC) LCD. If you look at foto for Step 52 above, I have a thin BLUE cable running down the right-hand side - near the silver one - that goes down between the hinge and the edge of the back cover and then along the edge behind the inverter and then behind the other hinge, then goes up towards the LCD panel and is taped together in a 3-cable bunch with the 2 thin cables you can see on the left of of foto 52. This blue cable has the same "tip" as the other 2 in the foto.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Matt - Réponse

In reply to Matt; there are 2 types of airport cards that come on these machines, some require 2 antennae leads and others use 3 (I believe the newer type uses 2). Some machines have the older style 3 leads even though they used the newer airport card, so they just left the tip off the unused lead.

maccentric - Réponse

To replace JUST THE CCFL BULB, would I really need to do all of this? Can the face of the LCD be removed to reveal the bulb enough for removal?

Billy Stanley - Réponse

An authorized apple repairing center told me that the backlight lamps of my mid 2009 macbook's lcd was broken and with 410 $ they could fix them (assembling a new lcd).

So i decided to replace the inverter cable, inverter and lcd panel on my own saving 235 $.

I've never replaced anything of electronic parts, laptop parts and i'm not an expert of computers (hardware and software).

ifixit's guide helped me a lot!

be careful when reassembling all the parts! it is easy to broke tiny cables or similar pieces like wifi, isight cables and the display data.

helvidar - Réponse

To say that this job is "Difficult" is an understatement. What I went through was nothing short of a NIGHTMARE. If it wasn't for this guide, I would have bricked my Mac to the point of no return.

PART I.

First off, I'd like to plug ScreenAid, a 5-star distributor with rave reviews (sarcasm) in Brooklyn, run by Mr. Hangfeng Wu. I bought "Screen #1" from them and they sent me an LED SCREEN with a completely different part number. they made me chase them through the fires of !@#$ just to return it. The first time I called, they answered, but after establishing that I wanted a refund, they pretended to not speak English and hung up on me. I think they programmed my number because they never answered the again. When I reached them through email, they wanted me to send pictures, pay for return shipping and charge me a restocking fee, even though it's CLEARLY their mistake. I wish I would have Googled them before ordering because their reviews are atrocious.

Ninth Ward - Réponse

PART II

I decided to go with a "reputable" seller and bought Screen #2 from PowerBookMedic and it cost me 3x more than what Mr. Wu was charging, but hey, it was the right panel.

So I start removing screws and stop at step 11 when I see the BIG ! symbol. I took extra care to ensure that I didn't damage that cable, but the left side of the keyboard (not the DVD side) got stuck on some little metal thing. So I'm poking and probing at it with a guitar pick and all of the sudden, the case comes flying off and I ripped the !@#$ keyboard cable... And now I clearly saw where this was going.

Ninth Ward - Réponse

PART III (Final)

I then took the liberty to skim the rest of the 61 step guide and decided it best to turn it over to a pro before I break it any worse. I told my horror story to the local mac repairman and he took pity on me and said he'd do it for only $90 bucks since I had already bought the panel.

He does it right in front of my eyes and like a boss is finished in under an hour. He then starts going off on some epic Steve Jobs rant and how Apple is now a sinking pirate ship, but then we turn it on and it starts BEEPING. Repairman say the chip is bad and pulls one out of his pocket (as if he already knew this was going to happen). So he replaces the chip and it magically works. I still can't help but think he was tricking me, but he only charged me an additional $25 so I didn't really care because I had my Mac back. Honestly, if he would have said it was $100, I probably would have paid it, I was that desperate. This is the LAST TIME I attempt to follow a 61 step DIY computer repair guide for sure!!!

Ninth Ward - Réponse

Dude to replace the chip did he have to do it all over again ?

Espignole - Réponse

4 hours, it is necessary to take time when your are not a pro !

the most difficult is to remount the bezel ! pay attention to step forty and forty one when you remount !

after all is Ok

Didier Cugy - Réponse

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