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Introduction
La batterie ne dure pas longtemps ? Remplacez-la (soudure nécessaire).
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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To aid in visualization, the two clips boxed in red are located closest to the headphone jack.
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Insert the large iPod opening tool into the seam between the front case and rear panel of the iPod, above the dock connector. The tool's edge should point toward the rear panel to prevent any accidental scratching of the anodized aluminum front case.
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Insert a small iPod opening tool into the seam on the headphone jack side of the Nano, with the edge of the tool pointing toward the rear panel.
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Gently enlarge the existing gap by pressing/wiggling the small iPod opening tool into the gap near each of the the two tabs attached to the rear case, pushing the clips toward the center of the Nano until both have been freed.
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Repeat the same procedure listed in the previous step to free the three clips along the hold switch side of the Nano.
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Insert an iPod opening tool into the gap near the top left corner of the Nano and work to free the three clips along the top edge of the rear panel.
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After ensuring all tabs are free, separate the two halves of the iPod.
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The rear panel is now free from the iPod.
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With the rear case removed, the back side of your Nano should now look like this.
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Remove the following six screws:
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One 1.8 mm Phillips.
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Three 1.9 mm Phillips.
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One 2.4 mm Phillips.
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One 2.6 mm Phillips.
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Using a spudger, flip up the brown click wheel ribbon cable retaining clip.
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Use the tip of a spudger to slide the click wheel ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Lift the logic board assembly out of the front case from the click wheel connector side (the cable you just disconnected). Rotate the logic board assembly about the display ribbon cable and lay it next to the front case.
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Use a spudger to flip up the display ribbon cable retaining clip.
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Slide the display ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Before proceeding, remove the metal EMI finger shown by pulling it away from the adhesive on the logic board.
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Before de-soldering the battery cables, you must remove a small amount of black rubbery adhesive securing them to the logic board.
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Push the tip of a spudger beneath the rubber adhesive and toward the battery to free it from the surface of the logic board.
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Start freeing the adhesive from around one of the outer leads, then free it from the two gaps between leads, and finally push the spudger along the back side of the leads to completely remove it from the logic board/battery leads.
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The battery leads, now free of adhesive, should look like this.
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Begin by heating the exposed end of the white battery lead with the tip of a soldering iron while simultaneously pulling the lead away from the connection, using tweezers to grasp the lead by the insulation.
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De-solder the remaining leads, following the procedure illustrated in the previous step.
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All leads should now be de-soldered and disconnected from the logic board.
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Using a spudger, pry the battery up from the adhesive holding it to the battery shield.
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Start prying at the upper right corner of the battery and work your way around the perimeter until the battery has lifted enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Remove the battery from the battery shield.
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Pour ouvrir les trous de soudure, dépliez une agrafe et enfoncez-la dans la soudure qui bloque le trou, tout en chauffant la même pastille de soudure de l'autre côté de la carte mère.
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Place the new battery in the metal battery tray, sticking it down to the adhesive.
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Using a pair of tweezers, insert the stripped ends of the battery leads into their respective holes.
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Insert the black lead into the rightmost hole.
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Insert the red lead into the center hole.
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Insert the white lead into the leftmost hole.
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Solder the connection by momentarily placing the tip of the soldering iron against the connection, pressing solder into the connection (melting it), and quickly removing both the solder and the tip of the soldering iron from the connection. The solder should flow around the new battery lead, solidly connecting it to the pad on the logic board.
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Solder the other two battery leads in the same fashion, taking special care not to bridge any of the connections together with solder.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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18 commentaires
I have one suggestion about replacing the back cover after you are all done (If you did not purchase a new replacement cover). I noticed that in the process of removing the back cover, the metal clips get bent up. This causes the cover to be very loose when you replace it (this is the "considerable damage" I presume the article talks about. In order to get a tight fit, you must press down the clips very gently. One of the tack welds came off of mine, and I had to remove one of the metal tabs because it was useless, so be careful. Anyway, keep this in mind and you won't have to buy a new back cover. Thanks for the article, it really helped!
This is NO EASY TASK. Much HARDER than the steps shown here. There is no way in !@#$ the plastic tool will separate the case...but I am sure someone will say there is.
Not I though.
I will be purchasing the back case now since it is obvious to me after receiving the replacement battery in the mail that I am going to butcher this thing up and the clips.
Peace.
I totally agree, the plastic tool broke the tangs right away. I had to use a small flat blade jewelers screwdriver to pry around. And yes, I bought a new cover
Bud -
I successfully opened the ipod with a walmart brand set that contained a large and small plastic tool. You gotta work it.