@thomaso77906 this could be a backlight issue. Since your monitor still comes on try this. Decrease your backlight to a bare minimum lets say 1/2 of what you normally work with. Check your menu and see if you have some sort of warmth/different modes for the display that you can decrease as well. Then try to turn it on and see if that made a difference.

Check some of the forums and reviews and you will find out that there are dimming issues with theis series monitor. Seems like a firmware update can resolve this. Check this video for the firmware issues.

If none of the software or menu issus resolves this, then it is possible that you are having backlight issues. Yes, there is always a possibility that it is your backlight inverter circuit as well. For that, you would need to measure the output voltages to your backlight and see what you get on that and if you have that voltage consistent.

While you are at it, check your ribbon cables as well to rule out any damage on those. To disassemble your monitor and check the board as well as the back lights use this video

Pictures are always good to see when it comes to errors like this. Use this guide Ajout d'images à une question existante to post your pictures with your Question.

@vitin40128 check the port for any debris or bend contacts. If cleaning it or if the contacts are broken, you will need to replace it. Luckily the charging port is soldered to a charging board. It will be much easier to just change the complete board. You are looking for something like this

iFixit doesn't yet have a guide for this. Use something like this video to get this repair done.

While you work on your drive, take lots of pictures. Once you are done with it, take those pictures and create a guide for iFixit. That will help the next person that has the same problem as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.

@harikall if the wobble is felt in the handle bars and goes away if you use both hands pushing somewhat against the bar, then it could be the stem bearings. Otherwise there are a few more possibilities. Could be caused by a bad tire, bad wheel bearing, and an out of balance wheel. Easiest would be to start by getting the wheel professionally balanced. As for maintaining your bike, here is the maintenance chart PMChartDiscover100.pdf

I found that the round-shaped filter “spout piece” inside the tank has clogged, far too many occasions I would dare to admit. Letting straight vinegar sit in the tank overnight helped the situation. After a couple of years, I’ve grown tired of this process so I actually grabbed a knife and popped that thing out. Coffee flows normal, however it’s not being filtered (shouldn’t be a problem if you don’t spill the ground coffee when preparing it). I tried going online looking for that little spout part with no luck. You can buy the entire tank part for $20, but really? All I need is to replace this tiny spout (strainer/filter) piece. All in all, the actual piece I removed looks like it was painted with black ink, impossible for anything to filter out through this anymore. I would submit pictures, but I don’t see how I could do that.

Hi @geofreynazarius

Try a full power refresh, in case it is a corrupted BIOS that is the cause of the problem.

Turn off the PC if it is on - long press of the power button and then disconnect the power cord from the PC.

Open the PC and locate the coin cell RTC (Real Time Clock -aka cmos) battery on the motherboard and remove it from the motherboard. Whilst the RTC battery is out measure its voltage. If it is <2.5V DC replace it. It is a CR2032 Lithium non rechargeable coin cell battery that lasts about 4-6 years. It is commonly available e.g. supermarkets.

Here's an image of the motherboard for your PC showing the battery location

(click on image)

Press and hold the PC power button for a full 30 seconds and then release it.

Reinsert the RTC coin cell battery into the battery holder on the motherboard - +ve side up as marked on the battery.

Reassemble the PC and connect the power cord to the PC and try turning it on and check.

If it starts OK there may be a message regarding the Date and Time being incorrect. This is normal as the BIOS has been reset. Once the D&T have been corrected, the message won't appear the next time the PC is started.

Also if you have changed any user definable settings in BIOS to suit whatever specific operating requirements, these will have to be changed back again to what you had.

It is possible, but it is a bit of an involved process. Sony did make a Teardown Video, and it does not seem that replacing the cable is that difficult. You'll need to remove the headband from the goggles as shown in the 0:30 mark, and then disassemble the headband as shown at the 9:00 mark. Hopefully, this is helpful.

Hi @carsman248

Not a good idea.

There is a risk of hardware damage to the amplifier in the stereo system. Connecting speakers which have a lower impedance than what the amp is rated for, may cause damage to the amp.

At the very least the sound will be distorted.

Clearly SMC encountered an extreme issue which is likely why the system shut down. I would focus on the power for starters.

What is the color of the MagSafe charger cord LED? Amber, Green or not lit?

After letting it charge does the case feel overly warm around the MagSafe connector?

When did you replace the battery?

The next step would be to disconnect the battery and just try running the system from the charger. Did that also fail?

@arjanj - OK, we have two problems then! First your battery has past its life expectancy! At best with good charging practice you might be able to squeeze out five years, for most four is at best. Just like a car battery the chemistry breaks down over time. But let’s wait on that until we get the system working correctly with the charger.

Inspect the connector surfaces are the pin surfaces clean both sides? Is the plastic area as well clean? If not I would start there. Post a picture of the system’s MagSafe connector straight in so we can see the pin area zoomed in as far as you can go with your camera.

The MagSafe connection has a one wire comm link to the charger with the middle pin. Make sure it’s not damaged. Often I find the knockoff chargers don’t make good contact so you may need a new one. Did you have a friend with a MacBook Pro of the same series? If you do see if you can use his charger to see if it is working on your system.

If the systems connector looks bad you may want to replace it it’s a bit of work but that would be the next step. Here’s the needed part MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board and the guide to put it in Remplacement de la carte de raccordement MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012.

Also do a good inspection of the logic board for any staining or corrosion or burnt components. You might want to use a small soft paint brush to scrub the board and fans of any dust buildup and using a can of can’ed air to blow it out.