Difficulté
Modérée
Étapes
7
Temps nécessaire
20 minutes
- Boîtier inférieur 2 étapes
- Connecteur de batterie 2 étapes
- Batterie 3 étapes
Tutoriel vedette
L'équipe iFixit trouve ce tutoriel particulièrement réussi.
Introduction
Grâce à ce tutoriel, remplacez une batterie usée.
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm (14,1 mm).
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.
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Retirez le boîtier inférieur et mettez-le de côté.
After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?
16 GB is the max
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À l'aide de l'extrémité d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
nails work pretty well as well...
At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.
It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.
Other than that, an excellent guide!
the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)
the hard drive changing worked though.
Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.
Patrick.
So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.
Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?
Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...
I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks
Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.
xtophr -
I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.
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Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.
My battery connect was like mid 2010 model
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Retirez les deux vis Tri-Wing de 7,4 mm fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur.
Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!
I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.
Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...
I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.
Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.
I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.
For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.
I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.
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Retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur à l'aide de la languette en plastique qui y est attachée.
Ridiculously simple process to replace the Mac’s battery. iFixit replacement process was completely accurate. I used the Egoway battery which is highly-rated: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F73...
Instructions for recalibrating the power system and recharging sequence ^_^ (skip forward to 3:30):
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce guide.
326 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.
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33 commentaires
I'd say this difficulty should be rated as easy, not moderate - it's well written and easy to follow, and documents one of the more simple procedures.
I think they rate it as "moderate" for needing to acquire the "Y" type screwdriver, but, (and here's a protip for first timers...) A small straight-blade actually fits and turns the screw as normal, with no need for special tools. :)
pyrodice -
The guide says to use a Y1 Triwing for the battery screws. The Triwing heads are smaller than that. I had a Y1 and it didn't fit. I kludged it with pliers and a Philips P000.
The Y-1 worked perfectly for me.
Use a small straight-blade. Sounds odd, but works perfectly.
pyrodice -
@pyrodice what do you mean a small straight blade?
Liz -
Very useful. I was having problems with my trackpad, the cursor was jumping around irratically, and I figured the problem was likely to be either swelling of the battery that I could not see, or dust and dirt on the trackpad. I was at the end of my patience, and my warranty has expired anyway, so this time I VIOLATED APPLES' IMPERITIVE and took out the stupid battery. Piece of cake.
Two things I found, 1) the plastic tabs that hold down the battery were all three broken; the screws had been over tightened from the factory. There were small pieces of plastic from it under the battery on the trackpad. When I got the battery out, I found a very tiny screw loose on the trackpad. I have no idea where it came from, I suspect someone dropped it when this unit was put together, since this has been an on- again off- again problem since
the computer was new. I removed the screw and dust, and put three small pieces of Velcro (just the fuzzy side) on the battery so that the back case would hold it in place, since the three ridiculous tri-screws were not doing anything, anyway. And put it back together.
And now, it works very, very well!
Somehow, I think an Apple genius would have not told me about having a screw loose...
Difficulty level should be revised to Easy but perhaps Moderate makes sense depending on how swollen the battery is.
Wasn't even aware that my battery was about to die until my trackpad started to stick and eventually became useless.
In my case, my Early 2011 (MacBook Pro 8,2) battery had over 1,300 cycles and the swollen battery was pressing against the trackpad rendering it basically useless.
Purchased a 3rd party battery off OWC for $99, arrived 3 days later and magic. My cycle count is zero now and the trackback works perfectly.
Easy as can be. I have never done any computer repair work, and this was simple!!! Thank you!
I originally bought a battery from amazon. But the battery did not work at all.
I then bought the battery here and those tools. It was perfectly working and the tools were very precise and easy to use. The quality of tools was much better than my amazon purchases.
I recommend to replace the battery using the iFixit products.
Thanks.
Bought the battery, the tools noted and the process was smooth. Took some care to take the warp out of the base cover and the machine is back in action.
I recommend this and add the note that with the right tools the process was EASY.
Cheers.
Before you remove the old battery and install the new one, make sure that you go in the System Preferences / Date and Time and have them set to "manual" (i.e. check off "Set date and time automatically" to an Apple server). That could save you lots of hassle when rebooting after replacing the battery.
See the thread “krb5kdc + Wrong OS Time + Losing Wifi Password ... | Official Apple Support Communities”, at https://discussions.apple.com/thread/239...
Lami -
Only two little details: I had to plug the new battery in first; then put in the three screws that hold it down. Also would be useful to sort the 4 screw types and match them with the proper holes. Otherwise perfect directions. And I chose to ignore the AUCHTUNG!
So, I replaced the battery, but the machine cuts out after a indeterminate amount of time, necessitating switching it back on again.
This is with no warning, it has done it a couple of times with the battery monitor showing 80% or more.
The machine is completely fine when running on mains power.
Any ideas?
Peter, I just replaced the battery on my MacBook Pro 2011 and I’m experiencing the same as you did. It shuts down unless I have it plugged to the main power. Am I suppose to let it charge for a few hours?
After I replace the battery should I first charge it fully or should I use it first and charge after depleated?
Thank you so much!! Have new life in my early 2011 MPB now!
If the battery is too swollen, this becomes a challenge to perform as some screws don't want to get out. As much as I really, /really/ did not want to and felt a part of me die inside as I did, I actually wound up ripping the bottom case off of the last three screws that just wouldn't get out (the battery's force actually caused one of the three screwholes to pop out of place, I simply bent the bottom case until the other two popped out.) From there on it was smooth sailing.
...Now to wait for my new battery to come in! (I could've had the swollen battery in there until the new battery came in, but honestly, I feel it's better to do without the Mac for a few days for the peace of mind in knowing I'm not going to have to worry about it blowing up or something of the sort at any given moment ^^") I'm going to feel so cool if this all works; I picked up this Mac for just $100 because of the battery swelling issue.
Just want to say thank you! You are selling a formidable battery here. I bought one over at eBay for 50 dollars or so and it works, but only gives me app. 2 hours on a full charge. The battery I got from fixit is a little more but still not as expensive as a proper Apple battery where I live and I get around 6 hours on a full charge. I did a calibration, even though I read somewhere else it shouldn't matter when the battery is internal and "non-removable". Thanks again.
cheers,
-jsteweii
I replaced the battery via your great directions. At first, it seemed to be working perfectly, but then shut off. I turned it on and it worked briefly, but then shut off again. Now it won’t even boot up…What’s going on? Cathy S
Looking to do this repair soon, as my battery is indicating “replace soon” to me.
Did you get your Macbook to work in the end?
Hello everyone. I just installed a new battery on my Macbook. But I can’t seem to calibrate the battery. It won’t give me accurate predictions regarding the percentage and duration of the battery. I have already tried every calibration procedure that I could find. But it just won’t work. Any idea would could be wrong ?
I am just about to replace my swollen battery (ordered with tools from iFixit) however my trackpad is cracked owing to battery swelling - should i buy and replace trackpad at same time to save opening up twice?! Thanks
Harriet - fortunately I read all the comments and questions - including yours. Otherwise I would have described exactly the same problem:
My early 2011 MacBook Pro’s battery is so swollen, that the touchpad sticks out of the keyboard and even the underside of the laptop became curved instead of flat. I wonder whether you got any reply from iFixit? I am afraid to buy the new battery and tools today - only to find out, that more parts need to be replaced which were destroyed by the swollen accu?
Hello Harriet,
After my message yesterday I ordered the replacement battery, and all the three recommended tools. The Phillips and the Tri-Point screwdrivers as well as the spudger. I almost didn’t believe it: this morning, before nine o’clock, DHL was here already with the parcel. The tools are of an excellent quality and I needed all three of them, but within less than 20 minutes the replacement was complete and, against all odds, the MacBook runs again. And to answer your question about the trackpad: mine oozed out by 4mm. But no problem. From the inside the trackpad is held by two thin and short metal stripes, each one fastened by four tiny little screws. Probably the tiniest screws I ever handled, but also here the scPhillips Screwdriver was perfect. Those metal stripes were severely bent bent but could be pressed flat again and I re-mounted them upside down so that they could hold the touchpad perfectly again. Much easier than expected, but obviously a 100% success!
I was given a dead MacBook pro with a battery that was bulging so much that the bottom cover was pushed out almost a half inch. The battery was quite easy to replace using this guide. I bought the battery sold by iFixit. I have only one piece of advice - BUY THE TRIPOINT SCREWDRIVER! I was impatient and removed the tripoint screws by trying to jam in a flathead screwdriver. I got them out, but now the screwheads are stripped a bit. Also, as others have recommended, be sure to calibrate the battery: Turn on the computer and let it drain down to 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - Réponse
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - Réponse
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - Réponse
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - Réponse
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - Réponse
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - Réponse
for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy
mindful - Réponse
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - Réponse
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - Réponse
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - Réponse
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - Réponse
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - Réponse
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - Réponse
Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.
Danno - Réponse
Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?
If so, what is the best way to do this?
Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.
Sibyl Smith - Réponse
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - Réponse