Introduction
Suivez ce tutoriel pour changer votre disque dur iMac. Le remplacement du disque dur requiert la séparation de l'écran et le déplacement du haut-parleur gauche.
Ce tutoriel inclut aussi les étapes pour mettre à niveau votre disque dur iMac avec un SSD. Il montre aussi comment installer le capteur de température du SSD afin que les ventilateurs du Mac opèrent à la bonne vitesse.
Avant tout travail sur votre iMac : Débranchez l'ordinateur et appuyez dix secondes sur le bouton de marche pour décharger les condensateurs de l'alimentation.
Faites très attention de ne pas toucher les pattes du condensateur ou les soudures à l'arrière de l'alimentation.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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La charnière n'étant pas coincée, l'iMac est instable et difficile à manipuler. Vous pouvez effectuer votre réparation sur l'iMac couché, mais c'est plus facile en le stabilisant avec une cale de maintien pour iMac.
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Si vous utilisez la cale de maintien iFixit en carton, consultez ces instructions pour l'assembler.
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En commençant à gauche de l'écran, à côté du bouton de marche, insérez l'outil d'ouverture pour iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le panneau arrière.
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Servez-vous de votre outil comme d'une roulette à pizza. Progressez le long de l'interstice pour couper la mousse adhésive le long du bord.
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Parcourez le bord gauche de l'écran.
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Continuez à rouler votre outil le long du coin gauche supérieur.
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Posez l'iMac à l'endroit sur une table.
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Insérez une carte en plastique entre l'écran et le châssis, dans le coin supérieur droit de l'iMac.
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Faites délicatement pivoter les cartes insérées dans chacun des coins pour augmenter l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier.
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S'il semble que certaines parties adhèrent toujours et ne se décollent pas, arrêtez de faire pivoter les cartes et servez-vous de l'une d'elles pour trancher l'adhésif coupable.
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Commencez à soulever le bord supérieur de l'écran du châssis.
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Tout en tenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez la nappe d'alimentation de l'écran de l'autre.
Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.
These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.
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Soulevez l'écran presqu'à la verticale.
After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.
It's possible to skip this step and go to step 24, leaving the display attached. You'll want to open the display just enough to replace the drive, with the machine upright and supported so the display doesn't swivel (I fold up a small pillow and wedge it in there). This way you don't have to worry about damaging the display when removing it, or aligning it when replacing it (which can be difficult to do solo as it's big and heavy).
Using a T8 with a short handle is helpful here, and make sure it's well magnetized so you don't drop the screws for the hard drive (just leave the other ones in the speakers).
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Saisissez la petite languette au bout d'une des bandes adhésives en bas de l'écran et tirez-la vers le haut de l'iMac pour la décoller.
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Recommencez pour décoller la seconde bande adhésive.
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Soulevez l'écran du châssis et retirez-le de l'iMac. Posez-le à l'envers sur une surface plate et lisse.
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Si nécessaire, soulevez-le lentement d'un côté pour défaire l'adhésif restant.
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Avec un tournevis T10, dévissez les deux vis de 10 mm qui fixent le haut-parleur gauche.
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Tirez tout droit sur le câble SATA pour le débrancher du disque.
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Prenez un tournevis T8 pour dévisser les deux vis de 7,3 mm qui fixent le dispositif d'attache du disque dur au boîtier arrière.
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Retirez les quatre vis T8 de 8,1 mm du disque dur et transférez-les sur votre nouveau boîtier de disque.
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Alignez les connecteurs de SSD avec les prises du boîtier métallique.
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Appuyez le disque contre les prises du boîtier jusqu'à ce que le SSD soit bien encastré.
what if I’m installing a hard drive?
Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!
Been using them for years...works great.
Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:
1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)
2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if
Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.
Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.
A 14Tb HDD does not represent any problem. But I will care about rising temperature. Must attach a heat sensor. If rise to high, it will suddenly shutdown to protect it.
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Branchez le câble d'alimentation SATA compatible avec sonde dans le port du boîtier.
Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.
If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.
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Décollez le film de protection blanc qui recouvre l'adhésif derrière la petite sonde de température,
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Collez le circuit de la sonde de température à la surface métallique du SSD, à côté du connecteur SATA.
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Repliez les câbles de la sonde de température, qui dépassent, de façon qu'ils ne vous gênent pas quand vous montez le boîtier.
Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?
Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.
Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD
Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.
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Attachez les dispositifs d'attache provenant de l'ancien disque dur sur le boîtier.
i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable
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Glissez le boîtier du SSD dans l'espace occupé précédemment par le disque dur.
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Disposez les câbles SSD de façon qu'ils n'interfèrent avec aucun autre composant.
The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.
Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.
As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.
This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.
For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.
I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.
Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!
In my Late 2012 27" iMac I Scotch-taped the SATA connector to the case to stop it from pushing against the screen after reassembly.
Only 39 steps!
Is it possible to clone the internal disk and have the imac boot off the external SSD?
The extension cable is too long. I folded it over carefully & stuck it down to the case using a double sided sticky pad. Photo here
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Comparez votre nouveau disque dur iMac à la pièce d'origine - il se peut que vous deviez transférer les composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans le sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électronique chez un recycleur certifié.
Votre réparation iMac ne s'est pas passée comme prévu? Allez voir notre Forum pour obtenir de l'aide.
Comparez votre nouveau disque dur iMac à la pièce d'origine - il se peut que vous deviez transférer les composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans le sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électronique chez un recycleur certifié.
Votre réparation iMac ne s'est pas passée comme prévu? Allez voir notre Forum pour obtenir de l'aide.
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9 commentaires
What’s the difference with this guide? Remplacement du disque dur de l'iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K
Hello, I have an iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) and I would like to change my hard disk, which is a 3.5GHz 1TB Fusion Unit, for an SSD disk, would you recommend doing it? And if so, what reference or brand do you recommend to do it?
I can confirm the OWC thermal sensor cable is not needed for HDD to SSD upgrade. I successfully upgraded my 2017 5k iMac fusion drive’s HDD to WD blue 2TB SATA3 ssd without it and the fans speeds don’t ramp up at all. Anyhow thanks for your guides Ifixit on how to DIY. I successfully upgraded my 128gb NVME to a 1TB NVME and to a SATA3 ssd for storage. Transfer speeds are insane and my boot up time now only takes 12 seconds compared to 32 seconds previously. I also upgraded my cpu from the i5-7600k to the i7-7700k. My 2017 5k iMac is blazing fast now. Thanks again ifixit.
Successfully upgraded to a 2TB SSD from the 2TB Fusion drive. As soon as I turned on Bootcamp, the Fusion drive went nuts for a few weeks I think because it prioritized the Windows side onto the SSD and the Mac side onto the spinning drive. It eventually corrected itself but it was a helluva time. And it was time for a fresh hard drive anyway. $500 is much cheaper than a new iMac. Highly recommend this one. This was way easier than my upgrades to the 2009 and to a Mac Mini.
Excellent instructions. The process is straightforward - the only tricky bit is reinstalling the screen accurately. There seems to be some conflicting views on the internet about the best way to do it and which adhesive strips to use - the 2012-2015 strips now seem to be supplied for later models, and they worked fine on my 2017 iMac.
My advice is just to take take it all very steadily and always read one stage ahead before you start on your next stage just to know where you are going next. I installed a 2TB Crucial SSD and the results are very good.
ive been looking for info on the blade drive as wiping a newly installed SSD and installing OS works, but what is best practice for this? what do we use the blade for after, is it just wiped and left redundant? - as for the temp control, just install Macs Fan Control.
i did this but then my imac showed a folder with a question mark on it
Great guide! Amazing work here.
What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.
ebay - Réponse
I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.
I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…
…apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.
Erich Hentschel - Réponse