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Droit à la réparation

Boutique

Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the Home Button Assembly, including the gasket and cable, in your iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi. Note that home buttons are paired with their respective logic board, so Touch ID will no longer work after you replace the Home Button Assembly.

Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Réponse

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Réponse

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Réponse

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Réponse

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Réponse

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Réponse

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Réponse

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Réponse

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Réponse

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Réponse

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Réponse

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Réponse

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Réponse

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Réponse

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - Réponse

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - Réponse

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - Réponse

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - Réponse

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - Réponse

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    At what power (how many watts) does the 30 seconds apply?

    Jarl Friis - Réponse

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Réponse

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Réponse

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Réponse

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Réponse

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Réponse

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Réponse

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Réponse

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Réponse

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Réponse

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Réponse

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Réponse

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Réponse

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Réponse

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Réponse

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Réponse

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Réponse

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Réponse

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Réponse

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Réponse

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Réponse

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Réponse

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Réponse

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Réponse

    The iOpener is, well, sort of silly. I used it for a while by immersing it in a pot of water regulated at 180 F, which worked, but I ultimately found it far faster to use a hair dryer. I do have an inexpensive IR thermometer which seemed to indicate that the adhesive softened sufficiently when the outer surface of the ipad display edge registered about 140 F. That said, the reflectivity of the outer surface is probably not suitable for reliable temperature indications with an IR thermometer. Just be patient. If you don’t have an IR thermometer, just heat the surface until it is almost too hot to the touch.

    Also note the instructions are VERY different for the WI-FI vs. the Cellular version when attempting to release the adhesive along the bottom (home-button) edge. In one case (on left side) you are to cut towards the center, in the other case you are to cut away from the center. I ended up cutting the right-side cellular antenna cable because I didn’t pay close enough attention here.

    Leon - Réponse

    Delete the second paragraph above. I had confused the top and bottom of the ipad. Do pay attention to the direction in which you slide the pick. It MUST be toward edge from camera, not home button. Sorry.

    Leon - Réponse

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Réponse

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Réponse

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Réponse

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - Réponse

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - Réponse

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Réponse

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Réponse

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Réponse

  4. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Réponse

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - Réponse

  5. The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
    • The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.

    • Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.

    • Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Réponse

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.

    Alexander Chrisman - Réponse

    Hi!

    Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..

    Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!

    BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!

    Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3

    Magnifika Mole - Réponse

    Hello Magni!

    Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.

    Arthur Shi -

  6. While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step. As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Home Button
    • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

    • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Home Button

    • Front Facing Camera

    • Main Camera

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Réponse

  7. Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal. To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
    • Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.

    • To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

  8. Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case. Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass. Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

    • Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.

    • Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  9. Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack. If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat. Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.
    • Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.

    • If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.

    • Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.

    • A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the iPad.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Réponse

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Réponse

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.

    Peter Goodall - Réponse

    I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.

    To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.

    I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.

    I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.

    Daniel Corks - Réponse

    6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.

    tobiasscholand - Réponse

  10. Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera. Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.
    • Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

  11. Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button. Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button. Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.
    • Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

  12. Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera. Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.
    • Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

  13. Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad. Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad. Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.
    • Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

  14. Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet. Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet. Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.
    • Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

  15. Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.
    • Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

  16. SAUTEZ LA MISE À NIVEAU

    Économisez en réparant avec un kit tout-en-un.

    Fix Kits pour iPhone

    SAUTEZ LA MISE À NIVEAU

    Économisez en réparant avec un kit tout-en-un.

    Fix Kits pour iPhone
  17. Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display. Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display. Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.
    • Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

    take care not to insert more than 4mm!

    tobiasscholand - Réponse

  18. Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.
    • Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

  19. Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display. Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display. Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.
    • Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

  20. Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad. If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly. If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.
    • Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

  21. Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner. Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner. Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.
    • Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

  22. Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.
    • Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

  23. Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad. Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad. Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.
    • Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

  24. Repeat for the left-hand pick. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
    • Repeat for the left-hand pick.

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  25. Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad. Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.
    • Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

  26. Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad. Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath. Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.
    • Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

  27. Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case. Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case. Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.
    • Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.

  28. Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side. Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case. Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.
    • Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.

    • Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.

    • Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display yet—it is still attached to the rear case by three delicate ribbon cables.

  29. Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.
    • Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Réponse

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - Réponse

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

    If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.

    Brendon Gould - Réponse

  30. To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery. The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board. If you use this method, take extreme care to insert it gently and straight in the direction of the logic board. Do not twist or swing the pick side to side.
    • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board. If you use this method, take extreme care to insert it gently and straight in the direction of the logic board. Do not twist or swing the pick side to side.

    • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

    Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick

    Raid One - Réponse

    Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can’t you just disconnect the battery?

    Pontus Sennerstam - Réponse

    So if this method is outdated, what is the current method to disconnecting the battery?

    Orochi - Réponse

  31. Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

  32. Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

  33. Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable. Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable. Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.
    • Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.

  34. Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • If you plan to reuse your display assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Follow our iPad Adhesive Guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.

    Raza Toosy - Réponse

  35. Lay the display assembly facedown. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the  bracket off the back of the Home Button. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the  bracket off the back of the Home Button.
    • Lay the display assembly facedown.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the bracket off the back of the Home Button.

    May require pushing back some tape to access the slot for the opening tool

    Terry Dactil - Réponse

    • Remove the Home Button bracket and peel up the tape connected to it.

    • During reassembly, after installing the home button, you'll need to glue this bracket into place to secure it

    • Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue from the bracket as you can, then clean it with acetone or high-concentration (90% or greater) isopropyl alcohol.

    • Secure the bracket with hot-melt glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.

    attention à cette étape de ne pas décoller en même temps la gappe du bouton. Celui ci peux etre tordu et difficile à remettre.

    jipilabont - Réponse

  36. Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector. Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector. Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector.
    • Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector.

  37. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the Home Button cable socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the Home Button cable socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the Home Button cable socket.

  38. Disconnect the Home Button ribbon cable. Disconnect the Home Button ribbon cable.
    • Disconnect the Home Button ribbon cable.

  39. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip.

  40. Peel up the remaining corner of the Home Button ribbon cable. Peel up the remaining corner of the Home Button ribbon cable.
    • Peel up the remaining corner of the Home Button ribbon cable.

    What is the purpose of the contact finger that is exposed on the corner of the home button ribbon cable. What connects to this?

    Steven Teraoka - Réponse

  41. Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the display to loosen the adhesive on the Home Button gasket.
    • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the display to loosen the adhesive on the Home Button gasket.

    • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before moving on to the next step.

    Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

    Thaddeus Lee - Réponse

  42. In the following steps, you will be separating the home button gasket from the iPad's front panel. This gasket is extremely delicate and can tear easily. If the gasket does not separate easily from the front panel, reapply heat using the iOpener before continuing. Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display. Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display.
    • In the following steps, you will be separating the home button gasket from the iPad's front panel. This gasket is extremely delicate and can tear easily. If the gasket does not separate easily from the front panel, reapply heat using the iOpener before continuing.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display.

    Another option… heat it up a bit and then apply gentle pressure from the front of the button. Start with one “corner” and work your way around.

    Mine came out like very smoothly with this process.

    Good luck!

    John Monahan - Réponse

  43. Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel. Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel. Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel.
    • Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel.

  44. Remove the home button assembly. If you are replacing your LCD assembly, some assemblies have a slightly different home button connector placement that will require you to fold over the home button cable in a &quot;S&quot; shape like shown in the picture. If you are replacing your LCD assembly, some assemblies have a slightly different home button connector placement that will require you to fold over the home button cable in a &quot;S&quot; shape like shown in the picture.
    • Remove the home button assembly.

    • If you are replacing your LCD assembly, some assemblies have a slightly different home button connector placement that will require you to fold over the home button cable in a "S" shape like shown in the picture.

    There is also a plastic waster around the hole which can be lifted and placed on the new screen - not just the grommet.

    John McDonnell - Réponse

    Yeah, that’s a big problem with this guide. Not to mention the home button bracket needs the little magnet in the circle dimple. I broke my original home button from trying to get the darn thing to work using a new home button bracket until I used the old bracket with the tiny magnet and suddenly it worked. Since the original home button ribbon had broken I can no longer use touch ID.

    Overall this guide is really lacking in critical details, like how exactly the home button assembly is put together and taken apart, like where the little plastic washer, and grommet go.

    Grant Godfrey - Réponse

    And this picture is out of focus, making it hard to differentiate the items that are mentioned/warned about in the written portion.

    Evan A Boyle - Réponse

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

32 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Evan Noronha

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11 commentaires

There is a small black plastic ring between the back of the glass and the home button gasket that no one seems to be mentioning. Do you see it? It does not appear on any of the photos. What's up with that?

Tim - Réponse

Its the washer, better to transfer to new screen if the screen does not come with the washer. Without the washer the home button will work fine, just feel weird. Good luck

hatrongminh -

Changing the home button, the touch ID stills working? Or we lose this function?

Jose - Réponse

As I understand it, the touch ID chip on the home button ribbon cable is paired to the logic board at the factory. Unless you put the same home button assembly back, you will lose the touch ID when a replacement home button assembly is installed. The home button will work but without touch ID

James Sturgeon - Réponse

I confirm it. I had personally checked it on iPhones and now on iPads. Thanks for the answer ;)

Jose - Réponse

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - Réponse

James, I am having the same problem. I think the iFixit stock is goofy in this regard. Not good.

William Setterberg -

Anyone have a fix for this? I am having a similar problem and can't get the home button to work

Joseph Graham -

Same issue. Their solution is to put an “s” curve on the ribbon. Mine has a stiff piece on it and I’m afraid I’ll tear it if I remove it. Very frustrating and very little help

Jack -

If the Home Button and Touch ID for an iPad Air 2 are not working.

What Part number would you recommend so I can replace them both and have the functionality of Home Button and Touch ID?

Please give me your recommendation.

Thank you, EA

eafg66 - Réponse

I replace the new screen of iPad Air 2 successfully with original same home button. Everything works except finger prints failed. I tried to fix from software but finger prints does not work, only home button function works. Any idea what is solution ?

iRepairMan - Réponse

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