Le remplacement de la batterie nécessite un fer à souder à panne fine. Il s'agit d'un travail difficile que seuls les soudeurs expérimentés devraient tenter.

  1. Insérez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod dans l'espace entre la coque extérieure et le cache supérieur.
    • Insérez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod dans l'espace entre la coque extérieure et le cache supérieur.

    • Faites levier sur le cache supérieur pour le décoller de l'adhésif le fixant au dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

    • À ce stade, le bouton Arrêt n'est plus fixe et risque de tomber. Veillez à ne pas le perdre.

    Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.

    captcarl13 - Réponse

  2. Retirez le bouton Arrêt du haut du Nano.
    • Retirez le bouton Arrêt du haut du Nano.

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    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes coudées des deux coins du dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

    • Ces têtes de vis sont extrêmement petites et s'abîment facilement.

    Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.

    iTronics Repair - Réponse

    The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

    I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

    bodieg - Réponse

    Citation de bodieg :

    The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

    I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

    Step 12 is misleading as it does not show to remove the screen from the metal frame.

    bodieg - Réponse

    Sorry guys, but the explanations are really bad. Go onto youtube and watch it. This site misses heaps of steps. I just broke my iPod :(

    S Mile - Réponse

    Like others have noted, screws are covered in adhesive and difficult to remove. Take extreme care to not strip the heads. I'd suggest using a very small flathead to scrape some of the adhesive off before attempting to remove the screws.

    captcarl13 - Réponse

    a 1mm slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch, but be carefull and make sure you get the angle just right

    andrew - Réponse

    The tools list doesn't say you need an iPod opener to, nor does the parts list day you'll need a new click wheel, though this is called ” wheel REPLACEMENT​”. I don't get the feeling these are very trustworthy instructions, ESPECIALLY after having read other comments. I'd say BEWARE, and look at a variety of resources to get a much more comprehensive picture.

    Skyfire - Réponse

    Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod, which means that you must not try to unscrew them vertically. If you do there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus look carefully with a torch to see at what angle you have to unscrew them.

    Fabrice Sarelli - Réponse

    Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod. That means that if you try to unscrew them vertically, there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus, look carefully with a torch to see exactly at what angle you need to unscrew them safelly.

    Fabrice Sarelli - Réponse

    Everything was good up to this point. I could barely see the screws and ended up stripping them. Just gave up at this point and threw the

    Ipod on the ground and stomped on it.

    gonzalo gonzalez - Réponse

    I agree with several other contributors here, that a properly sized flat screwdriver *that is not worn* held at the correct angle is a better option than a phillips because the screw head is filled in with adhesive tape. BEWARE: The screws on the top and bottom outer edges are not parallel to the case. They are offset by 25 or 30 degrees, with the tips of the screws pointing out towards the outer edge of the case with respect to where the heads are. Use something to get magnification so you can really see how your screwdriver fits, and whether it’s engaged. An undamaged and properly sized standard screwdriver held in the appropriate orientation will readily remove the top and bottom side screws without stripping and with very little force. Feel for engagement — press the screwdriver in just enough to get past the adhesive. Not much torque or pressure is required — just a good fit. You must have the right tools to do this job successfully, and look under high magnification. Align your screwdriver!

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre la coque extérieure et le dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

    • Utilisez l'outil pour faire légèrement légèrement l'écran de la coque.

    • Ne faites pas pivoter le dispositif de retenue de l'écran autour du bord supérieur de l'écran, car il est fixé à un support en acier mince qui se casse facilement.

    • Ne forcez pas le retrait du dispositif de retenue de l'écran, car la nappe du bouton Arrêt est susceptible de casser.

    I found I had to gently pry the retainer open with a craft knife (xacto knife?) as the plastic opener tool was too blunt or soft to get any purchase...

    aaaidan - Réponse

    My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!

    oliver - Réponse

    • Faites glisser l'écran hors du Nano. Il se déplacera d'environ 1 cm jusqu'à ce que le câble de données de l'écran vous empêche de tirer plus.

    • Ne forcez pas sur le très mince câble de données de l'écran.

    I have several problems in taking it out. I don't know if it is dued to the glue that the iPod has inside. Could you help me. Thanks

    Hector - Réponse

    instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

    pedalsandpicks - Réponse

    Citation de pedalsandpicks :

    instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

    If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.

    Frank veenis - Réponse

    The glass panel can be very difficult to get moving requiring a lot of downward force. I have found good old fashioned spit to be very useful here.Just lick both thumbs and rub on fingers until just sticky enough.

    This willl move the glass.

    Pete Green - Réponse

    • Lorsque l'écran est sorti du boîtier autant que possible, appuyez doucement sur le bord inférieur de la vitre jusqu'à ce qu'elle se soulève légèrement (~ 1 mm).

    • Appuyez vos pouces sur le bord inférieur de la vitre pour la faire glisser vers le bas et dans le boîtier jusqu'à ce que le bord supérieur sorte du boîtier.

    I found the adhesive (or fit) quite strong. Pushing on the bottom part of the glass created a small gap at the top, which I could fit a craft knife (xacto blade) into. This made it easier to carefully lever the glass out for me.

    aaaidan - Réponse

    I slipped and broke the LCD. So !#^&@@ off. What an absolute bastard of a job!

    lf - Réponse

    What is the "rear edge" of the nano? Can this be a bit clearer please? Maybe a video of this step would be a good idea. Then again, since Apple owns this site, I guess that's not gonna happen, is it?

    lf - Réponse

    I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.

    Rene Jeddore -

    You could do all these steps and really mess up your nano. Instead of disassembling the iPod, carefully remove the remnants of the old glass which I assumed you have cracked. With the new glass in hand CAREFULLY sand one edge of the glass evenly. I used my fine grinder on my dremel tool. After assuring a snug fit I removed the adhesive and installed the glass. Looks great and functional and I didn't ruin my iPod in the process. And when I said sand one edge I mean one of the edges that has a "lip" on it. The other lip you can slide right in and push gently down for a nice fit. Do not remove the adhesive until you are sure of a good fit. This is a quick fix for those who are too queezy to take apart their device.

    Jim - Réponse

    • Soulevez la vitre du Nano.

    • Avant de réinstaller la vitre, assurez-vous de nettoyer la face de l'écran et l'intérieur de la vitre, car toute poussière ou empreinte digitale sera nettement visible lorsque le Nano est allumé.

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    • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller le bouton Arrêt de l'adhésif le fixant au bord supérieur de l'écran.

    • La nappe du bouton Arrêt est extrêmement fragile et se casse facilement. Travaillez avec précaution.

    Be extremely careful while doing anything around the screen. The slightest bit of pressure in the wrong direction and you will be replacing the screen along with the battery. I speak from experience.

    Brian Campbell - Réponse

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    • Décollez le ruban adhésif Kapton recouvrant la prise du câble de données de l'écran.

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    • Tout en appuyant sur la prise de couleur claire vers le bas avec un doigt, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le dispositif de verrouillage ZIF du câble vers le bas du Nano.

    Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.

    Brian Campbell - Réponse

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller le câble de données de l'écran de la mince plaque métallique attachée à l'écran.

    • Veillez à ne pas déchirer le câble de données de l'écran.

    Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.

    Martin Mccaffrey - Réponse

    The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.

    Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.

    aaaidan - Réponse

    As commenter Brian Campbell wrote on the previous step, it is important to hold down the white cable socket while carefully working the cable loose from the adhesive. Even a small amount of upward force on the display data cable while it is still inside the socket could be enough to tear the socket off the board. Try not to pry up - use a thin, new (undamaged) opening tool to get under the ribbon cable and keep it parallel and as close to the metal plate as possible. It needs to be worked *under* the data cable, not to pry, as the cable just slides straight out the bottom of the white socket.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Retirez l'écran du Nano, en tenant compte de la nappe du bouton Arrêt qui pourrait rester accrochée.

    • Lorsque vous sortez l'écran de la coque, veillez à ne pas casser la nappe du bouton Arrêt.

    WATCH THE HOLD SWITCH!! Be *sure* it is disconnected before pulling out the screen! (I've made that mistake too many times :P)

    iTronics Repair - Réponse

    disconnected from what?

    I never saw where it was connected to!

    Fred Rodolf -

    By "caught" do you mean glued to the case? Mine was, and I cant tell how I could possibly have removed the screen without it breaking. Luckily my Ipod was already broken, but now its even more broke because of this guide.

    swd311000 - Réponse

    • Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre le joint inférieur et le connecteur de dock.

    • Décollez le joint inférieur de l'adhésif le fixant au Nano et mettez-le de côté.

    Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.

    iTronics Repair - Réponse

    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes au fond du Nano.

    • Ces têtes de vis sont extrêmement petites et facilement endommagées.

    • La vis légèrement plus longue parmi les trois se situe au milieu.

    In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.

    Any advice?

    Gauthier Scavée - Réponse

    If a screw is stripped, you need to somehow get another under the head to apply pressure to unscrew it (while unscrewing it). It’s an unpleasant operation where you have to apply pressure to keep the screwdriver pressed into the head while prying outward so the threads back out. Try not to strip the head, and try not to strip the threads, while helping the threads to catch.

    If this happens, you’ll need to replace the screw. It’s not a good idea to reinstall a stripped screw.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour extraire du Nano le joint en aluminium du dock.

    • Le joint du dock de l'iPod Nano est en aluminium très fin et fragile. Ne le pliez pas trop pendant le démontage pour éviter de le casser.

    I found using the opening tool to wedge up (toward the case) from between the metal bit (which is a plate) and the dock socket was the easiest way to do this.

    aaaidan - Réponse

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour décoller la batterie de l'adhésif qui l'attache à la coque extérieure.

    • La batterie lithium-polymère utilisée dans le Nano est très flexible. Essayez de ne pas ls déformer excessivement quand vous l'enlevez de la coque extérieure.

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour pousser l'ensemble formé par la carte mère et la batterie légèrement hors du fond du Nano. Arrêtez-vous une fois qu'elle se soulève un peu.

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    • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller la nappe de la molette de cliquable et sa prise ZIF du connecteur de dock.

    No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.

    John beGood - Réponse

    Pay heed to the word “peel”. Don’t pry. Work the tool slowly under the connector, keeping it as close to the board as possible. Don’t pry. The unit I repaired also had a small piece of Kapton tape, the corner of which can be lifted with tweezers.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour faire basculer le clapet de retenue ZIF de la nappe en direction de la prise casque.

    you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(

    juliforsyth - Réponse

    • Utilisez une paire de pincette pour faire glisser la nappe de la molette cliquable hors de sa prise.

    • Avant de procéder, assurez-vous que les deux, la prise de la nappe de la molette cliquable ainsi que sa nappe sont décollées de l'adhésif qui les fixent au connecteur de dock et à la carte mère.

    • Décollez la nappe des deux côtés !

    You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my ipod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

    Mike - Réponse

    Citation de Mike :

    You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

    Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD

    Chris Green - Réponse

    There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?

    reedc1 - Réponse

    Does anyone know of a source of mainboards for this Nano. Preferably in the European Community or China? Every other part seems to be available but this one.

    I've even found dud mainboards for sale on the U.S. Ebay site. What on earth would anyone do with a faulty Maiboard?

    Pete Green - Réponse

    TOOLS: I've ben reading a few commments regarding difficulty wth the screws. I was also told the Phillips screwdriver isn't a true Phillips but has an offset leg. Not having seen one I can't comment with any certainty.

    However,being an improvisor,I've been doing very well with a couple of watchmakers screwdrivers.The flat blades are about 1mm across and made of hard blued steel. The sharp corners dig into the screw and push any glue out of the way. A phillips won't push though glue. I used to buy these in a small plastic box - usuallly on street markets.

    Pete Green - Réponse

    Well... beware, this part is tricky ! the click-wheel ribbon stuck and get cut when pulling the battery+motherboard out. Too bad :(

    Anyway it was "last chance" for my 7-years old blue nano, battery wasn't providing more than 15 minutes autonomy.

    Too bad, it was my fist iPod and I liked it much than my new 7th gen'.

    Playoff - Réponse

    Your photos are showing the wrong cable being removed from the zip lock connector and freed, you are not showing that the cable coming from the click wheel is disconnected and freed. Your photo is showing that the cable from the logic board is disconnected and freed. This means that when the logic board is removed, the cable to the click wheel breaks. Your text and warnings are correct, but your photos are misleading. Very bad compared to the rest of the instructions in steps 1 - 16, which are excellent and better than anything else I found. A shame to spoil it with this step. It is not sufficient to warn in the text that “both ends of the cable need to be freed”, you have to add a photo showing the click wheel cable has been disconnected and freed (and what do you mean by both ends of the cable need to be freed - there are TWO cables, one to the logic board, one to the click wheel and you are showing the wrong cable to the logic board as being freed.

    John beGood - Réponse

    • Retirez l'ensemble de la carte mère de la coque extérieure, en tenant compte des nappes du bouton Arrête et de la molette cliquable, susceptibles de rester accrochés.

    • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous que la nappe de la molette cliquable est orientée vers l'avant du Nano et non sur les rainures de côté. Si elle est dans la rainure, vous allez probablement la couper quand vous mettrez la carte mère en place.

    My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.

    Randall Theobald - Réponse

    Instead of pulling it out, I found it easier to use the display hole to push on the top part of the battery straight down toward the bottom of the unit. This gives you far greater control of the battery/mainboard removal operation; you can push it out (down) in tiny increments and confirm no cables are caught as you do it. Pulling can cause a sudden, catastrophic release and if something is caught, it’s destroyed.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Décollez la nappe du bouton Arrêt du bord de la batterie et mettez-la de côté. La nappe du bouton Arrête n'est pas attachée à la batterie.

    • La batterie est fixée à la carte mère par un adhésif solide. Il sera peut-être nécessaire de forcer un peu pour retirer la batterie de la carte mère.

    • Décollez la batterie de l'adhésif la fixant au plateau métallique sur la carte mère.

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    • La batterie est attachée par des plaquettes de soudure avec des petits trous qui traversent la nappe de la batterie et se fixent sur des plaques plates sur la surface de la carte mère. Dans cette étape, vous chauffez chaque point de soudure individuellement tout en le soulevant de la carte mère avec un spudger métallique.

    • NE PAS créer de contact entre les points de soudure sur la carte et sur la nappe avec votre spudger. Un court-circuit pourrait détruire la carte mère.

    • Veillez à ne surchauffer ni la carte ni la nappe. Maintenez la panne du fer sur la plaquette suffisamment longtemps pour que la soudure fonde. Trop de chaleur risque de détruire la carte mère ou de faire fondre la nappe. Pensez à laisser la carte refroidir entre la soudure de chaque point.

    • Commencez d'un côté de la nappe de la batterie. Nous avons commencé à gauche. Chauffez le point de soudure le plus à gauche tout en faisant délicatement levier sous la nappe pour l'enlever de la carte.

    i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.

    iTronics Repair - Réponse

    Citation de iTronics Repair :

    i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.

    I did it this way and lifted the center trace off the board. Now the logic board will need to be replaced.

    Tom Buttner - Réponse


    In the course of soldering on the new battery, I bridged a couple of the tiny pads. In my attempt to fix, I delaminated the tiny pads from the new battery's lead. So I reattached the old battery's circuit and leads, and then soldered the new battery (cut from its board) to the old battery circuit.

    To do this, simply remove the tape from the end of the battery, unfold the leads, and unsolder the two pads that connect the battery to its board. Do the same with the new battery, and then solder the two leads from the new battery to the old board.

    I believe this is an easier way of fixing (assuming the battery is dead, and the circuit attached to the battery is fine, as mine was. My wife dropped the ipod in water).

    Bradley Borch - Réponse

    When desoldering, you should REALLY be using braid instead of just "pulling up". That makes it 100x easier.

    Drew Jensen - Réponse

    I used scissors to very quickly cut the ribbon cable off close to the battery so it’s not in the way. Work under a microscope if you have one — I taped the logic board down with black electrical tape so it stays centered in the field and is easier to work with. Note that there is adhesive on this cable (at the top in the above photo) which should be carefully pried loose before desoldering. I used tweezers to grip the ribbon cable, one terminal at a time while heating with the soldering tip. Without the battery hanging there, you have a good feel for how much pressure is being applied. It was very clear when it was melted loose (comes off with no resistance and no prying, which leaves the pads intact) because there’s no heavy battery hanging on in the way nor adhesive working against you. This also avoids the possibility of shorts electrically damaging the logic board.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    I forgot to add, my soldering station was set to 590 degrees Fahrenheit, for both desoldering and resoldering the new battery. I taped down the new battery cable with a very small triangle of tape prior to soldering — align it; tape it in place, put a little solder on your tip and just touch. It melts right through the hole, and bonds. Then remove the tape and solder the other two terminals (then I also remelted the first one). I would not want to do this job without a 1X-3X microscope! Always let the board cool completely between terminals as the guide suggests. There is a reason surface mount work is almost exclusively done by machines or with hot air and skilled technicians.

    Don’t apply any upward force to a SMT pad, ever! If it doesn’t release on 1st attempt, don’t continue heating. Let it cool and try again in 10 minutes. Most components and pads are rated for only 5 seconds of melt temp. (and very little force). Cut off the dead battery and detach adhesive so you can feel what you’re doing.

    Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

    • Répétez l'étape précédente pour chacun des deux points restants, en travaillant de droite à gauche ou de gauche à droite.

    • À ce stade, la batterie ne doit plus être rattachée à la carte mère.

    • Soulevez la vieille batterie hors du Nano et mettez-la de côté.

    Me too lifted the center pad off the board :( :( :(

    Can the center pad of the battery be wired to a point wich is connected to center pad?

    I mean, does anybody know where to wire center battery pad when logic board's center pad is lifted?

    perepe - Réponse


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13 commentaires

There is one small point which is worth a mention here.After disconnnecting the screen by flicking up a little black bit on the ZIF Connector, I went on to open the next ZiF (The Click Switch)

Yes- bits of ZIF connector everywhere.I actually had to examine a new Click Switch circuit carefully to find that this one is different.

Yes - you flick the White bit. Do apple do this just to keep us on our toes?

Pete Green - Réponse

I have taken the nano apart and started to use a solder iron to remove the old battery. I must have pulled on the battery before fully melting the solder and have pulled off two of the three tabs from the board.

Can this be fixed?

Vicente - Réponse

I tried what Bradley suggested because it really seems easier than to solder the new battery to the iPod circuit board, which is really tiny. Still I couldn't do it. The battery pads are very fragile and I had an hard time folding the leads and the battery circuit board so that it looked the way it originally was. This was the part where I failed because afterwards I wasn't able to insert the battery plus the iPod circuit board inside its case again and ended it breaking it.

ruigsantos - Réponse

When I soldered my battery in I first touched the top and bottom of the pads on the new battery with flux and then added a little solder to the top and bottom of the pads. When I put the pads in place I only had to apply a quick touch and it soldered on perfectly.

Overall it was a real pain! :)

Rene Jeddore - Réponse

After 3 hours of hard work I did it !

It's the first time I try such a job, and I found it "quite easy" to change the battery with the guide. Just follow the pictures and you'll be done.

The hard work for me was the solder part - and a friend of mine gave me a hand as he was more used to do this.

You can do it, it worth a try :)

maxdelamure - Réponse

He forgot step one where it says "Go on Amazon and purchase a new Ipod."

haaren - Réponse

Was able to do it, but got lucky with the soldering working out before I burned it beyond repair. If you're going to do this I recommend getting the toolkit! Or at least having an exacto knife, very tiny phillips screwdriver, and tweezers and PATIENCE. Also be sure to have a very sharp tip soldering iron, and I used .032 soldering wire - but a bit smaller would work too. Also the most important thing is be able to see very small close up details, or use reading glasses or a microscope. Honestly if I had to do it again, I wouldn't - but I love the scroll wheel on the 4th gen over the touch screens and also wanted a challenge. Be prepared to fail, but do your best! Good luck.

baranowskijoe - Réponse

Awesome directions.

williamauld1964 - Réponse

I have soldered for almost 20 years, for occasional hobby stuff. I'm nowhere near an expert (some people are amazing!), but I am quite experienced. I have a good power soldering iron with interchangeable tips. I've also repaired countless phones, ipods, computers, etc. But this stupid thing kicked my butt. I hate dealing with such tiny components, and I hate dealing with Apple's fear of exposed fasteners.

Just buy a new one at this point.

Jon Miller - Réponse

Great instructions. Very easy job to complete if you work carefully and follow each step. Pictures were a big help. If you are not experienced with a soldering iron, I recommend getting help with this part. It is very easy to overheat these tiny components and make a mess of the whole job. Comments above seem to reinforce this point.

chuckjohnson89 - Réponse

Hello Chuck. I have a blue iPod Nano 4th Generation in perfect condition that needs a battery swap. I don’t have time to set aside to swap it yet don’t want to see it in a landfill. If you shoot me your address I’d be happy to send you this unit for you to keep if you don’t mind doing another battery swap. Kind Regards.

Dan Lee -

Is there anywhere Uk I can send this to be done by someone more expert ? I don;t want to tackle it myself. My son picked it up in a charity shop and it worked for a bit, but then died, defiantly the battery problem.

derekndonna - Réponse

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Dernières 24 heures : 72

7 derniers jours : 403

30 derniers jours : 1,824

Total : 377,812