Introduction
Consultez ce tutoriel pour remplacer l'ensemble écran fissuré ou défectueux de votre MacBook Pro. L'ensemble inclut également les nappes de l'écran et du rétro-éclairage
Même si nous avons testé avec succès de remplacer l'écran avec une pièce d'origine Apple, il est possible que la puce T2 d'Apple empêche les écrans aftermarket de marcher correctement et que votre MacBook Pro ne démarre plus.
Pour votre sécurité, laissez la batterie de votre MacBook Pro se vider en dessous de 25 % avant de vous lancer. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut déclencher un incendie dangereux et incontrôlable si on la perce accidentellement.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Allumez votre Mac et lancez Terminal.
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Copiez-collez ou tapez la commande suivante dans Terminal :
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Cliquez sur la touche [return]. Si nécessaire, saisissez votre mot de passe d'admin et cliquez sur la touche [return]. Remarque : il est possible que cette touche porte le symbole ⏎ ou l'inscription "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Prenez un tournevis Pentalobe P5 pour dévisser les six vis du boîtier inférieur, aux longueurs suivantes :
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Quatre vis de 4,7 mm
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Deux vis de 6,6 mm
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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Posez une ventouse à côté du bord avant du boîtier inférieur, entre les trous de vis.
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Soulevez la ventouse juste assez pour ouvrir un léger espace sous le boîtier inférieur.
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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Poussez fermement le boîtier inférieur vers l'avant du MacBook (en l'écartant de la partie charnière) pour ouvrir le dernier des clips qui fixent le boîtier inférieur.
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Tirez d'abord un coin, puis l'autre.
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
The amount of force required for removing the bottom cover is absolutely ridiculous. Almost feels like i'm about to push my MacBook towards the wall the second it comes off.
Be careful, I ended up breaking 2 grounding pins on the motherboard last time I tried opening my computer up.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
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Retirez le boîtier inférieur.
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Posez-le au-dessus de l'ordinateur et alignez les clips coulissants à côté de la charnière. Appuyez et faites glisser le boîtier vers la charnière. Le mouvement devrait s'arrêter de lui-même quand les clips s'encastrent.
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Une fois que les clips coulissants sont fixés et que le boîtier inférieur est correctement aligné, appuyez fermement sur le boîtier inférieur pour rattacher les quatre clips cachés. Vous devriez les sentir et entendre s'encastrer.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Décollez et retirez l'autocollant isolant qui recouvre la puce de la batterie et se trouve dans le coin de la carte mère le plus proche de la batterie.
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Si le cache ne se décolle pas facilement, faites-le légèrement chauffer avec un iOpener, un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud pour faire ramollir l'adhésif en dessous. Puis réessayez.
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Décollez le morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie.
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Prenez une spatule pour retourner délicatement la clapet qui verrouille le connecteur ZIF de la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie.
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Faites glisser la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie hors de sa prise sur la puce de la batterie et ôtez-la complètement.
Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?
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Soulevez le connecteur de l'alimentation de la batterie avec une spatule pour débrancher la batterie.
Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.
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Servez-vous d'un tournevis Torx T3 pour dévisser les deux vis de 3,5 mm qui fixent le cache de la nappe du circuit imprimé de l'écran.
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Ôtez le cache de la nappe du circuit imprimé de l'écran.
T3 or T4? I almost damage the screw trying with the T3.
I’d say T4 as T3 was definitely too small
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Gardez le même tournevis pour retirer les deux vis Torx T3 de 1,7 mm qui maintiennent la fixation du connecteur de la nappe du circuit imprimé de l'écran.
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Enlevez la fixation du connecteur de la nappe du circuit imprimé de l'écran.
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Déconnectez les trois câbles d'antenne en soulevant chacun d'eux à la verticale de sa prise.
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Faites glisser votre pincette ou l'extrémité plate de votre spatule sous chaque câble en direction de sa prise. Puis faites délicatement levier avec votre outil ou faites-le pivoter pour les débrancher.
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Prenez un tournevis Torx T5 pour dévisser les quatre vis de 3,3 mm qui fixent le circuit imprimé de l'écran.
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Assurez-vous que la nappe du circuit imprimé de l'écran se trouve au-dessus du circuit et n'est pas coincée en dessous.
When reassembling, I found that I had to press in on the outer edge of the antenna (top edge when looking at the picture) at the midpoint between the left 8 screws and the right 8 screws as I screwed the display board screws in. I found that the outside antenna edge would otherwise rub against the display halfway through opening it making a pop sound. Installing this way fixed the problem.
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Prenez un tournevis Pentalobe P2 pour dévisser les seize vis de 1,5 mm qui fixent l'ensemble antenne.
I’m having difficulty removing the screws. I’m not sure if the p2 screwdriver is defective but I am now stuck at this step.
We had 4 MBP's that I removed the displays from. On this step, I stripped a 'middle' screw on each side.
On the second one, I also noticed the middle screws didn't exactly want to easily come loose as I worked my way down the row.
I wound up putting all screws back in, loosened then tightened the screw on the opposite end, then removed the two in the middle (without issue), then an outside screw going back and forth, until I just had one on each end. Since I had already removed and replaced them, they came out without issue.
I used this method on the remaining 2 MBP's and had no further issues.
YMMV and it may not even be necessary. Just seemed removing the screws from end to end put enough pressure on the remaining ones that they were harder to remove. Whereas a patterned removal seemed to resolve that 'issue'.
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Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à la pièce d'origine. Il vous faudra peut-être transférer d'éventuels composants restants ou retirer des films adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de commencer le remontage.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide au démontage.
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à la pièce d'origine. Il vous faudra peut-être transférer d'éventuels composants restants ou retirer des films adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de commencer le remontage.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide au démontage.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
17 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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8 commentaires
This is such a noob question but how do I marked that”I did this repair”.
I followed all of these steps to replace my display and when I put it all back together my Mac would only turn on when it was plugged into the wall. So the new display works fine but it doesn’t seem to recognize the battery at all. Has anyone run into this problem and know what the issue might be?
Jason - did you plug the battery connector and cable back in correctly?
I need anew battery connector mine i missing one end maybe …
my screen was replaced by a dealer and I found missing screws and the battery board data cable was glued so hard with a piece of tape when I pulled it out one side showed connection wires the other was nothing ,what don I do when I get a new one (if i can get one?..,,,
i am confused by the direction and how difficult such a simple step can stop me cold the battery connector is very fragile and i was not prepared for the outcome
i need help what can i do next. Thanks
Robert Reser
Can this model MacBook Pro 2019 A1990 work as a headless Mac
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Réponse
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Réponse
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Réponse
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Réponse
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Réponse
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Réponse
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Réponse
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Réponse
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Réponse
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Réponse
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Réponse
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Réponse
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Réponse
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Réponse
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Réponse
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Réponse
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Réponse
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Réponse
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Réponse
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Réponse
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Réponse
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Réponse
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Réponse
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Réponse
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Réponse
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - Réponse