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Le haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus sert également de double haut-parleur pour le mode stéréo. Si votre haut-parleur interne fait des siennes, suivez ce tutoriel pour l'enlever et le remplacer.

  1. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Vis Pentalobe: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone au dessous de 25%. Une batterie au lithium peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.

    • Enlevez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,4 mm sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

    • Ouvrir l'iPhone va compromettre son étanchéité. Préparez de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer, ou prenez bien soin d'éviter tout contact avec un liquide si vous souhaitez remonter votre iPhone sans remplacer les bandes adhésives.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Réponse

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Réponse

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Réponse

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Réponse

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Réponse

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.


    Neil Eriksen - Réponse

  2. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Procédure d'ouverture: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Chauffer la partie basse de l'iPhone aide à ramollir la colle qui maintient l'écran. Il sera alors plus facile d'ouvrir celui-ci.

    • Utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou préparez un iOpener, que vous posez sur la partie inférieure de l'iPhone pendant environ une minute afin de ramollir la couche d'adhésif en dessous.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Réponse

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - Réponse

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - Réponse

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - Réponse

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - Réponse

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - Réponse

    How can I get all this tools

    Ajibol emmanuel - Réponse

  3. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 3, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • Posez une ventouse sur la partie basse de l'écran, juste au-dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous de ne pas poser la ventouse sur le bouton home, car cela empêcherait le joint entre la ventouse et la vitre d'adhérer de façon étanche.

    • Si votre écran est fortement endommagé, le recouvrir de ruban adhésif transparent peut vous aider à faire adhérer la ventouse. Ou bien du ruban adhésif très collant peut faire office de ventouse. Si rien ne fonctionne, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur écran à la superglue.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - Réponse

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - Réponse

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

  4. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 4, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 4, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • Tirez sur la ventouse de façon ferme et constante pour créer un petit espace entre le panneau avant et la coque arrière.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) dans l'espace créé.

    • L'adhésif étanche maintenant l'écran en place est très résistant, et créer ce premier espace demande de la force. Si vous avez des difficultés pour ouvrir un interstice, bougez l'écran de bas en haut pour décoller l'adhésif jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez y insérer une spatule (spudger).

    • Pendant que vous tirez sur la ventouse, bougez la spatule (spudger) pour agrandir l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - Réponse

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - Réponse

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - Réponse

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - Réponse

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - Réponse

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - Réponse

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - Réponse

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - Réponse

  5. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) au bord inférieur gauche de l'iPhone entre le panneau frontal et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser la spatule le long du côté gauche en commençant par le bord inférieur et en travaillant vers les boutons de contrôle du volume et le commutateur du silencieux, pour défaire l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.

    • N'essayez pas d'enlever le bord supérieur de l'écran du boîtier arrière, car il est maintenu par des clips en plastique qui risquent de casser.

  6. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez la spatule (spudger) du côté gauche du téléphone, et insérez l'extrémité plate au coin inférieur droit.

    • Faites glisser la spatule le long du bord droit du téléphone tout en défaisant l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran.

  7. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 7, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 7, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez sur la ventouse pour soulever l'écran et ouvrir l'iPhone.

    • Evitez de soulever l'écran à plus de 10°, il y a des nappes délicates le long du bord droit de l'appareil reliant l'écran à la carte mère.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 - Réponse

  8. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Tirez sur la petite bosse de la ventouse afin de la séparer du panneau frontal.

  9. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 9, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 9, image 2 de 2
    • Faites glisser un médiator sous l'écran le long du bord supérieur du téléphone pour décoller l'adhésif restant.

  10. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 10, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 10, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 10, image 3 de 3
    • Éloignez légèrement l'écran complet du bord supérieur du téléphone pour ouvrir les clips le maintenant à la coque arrière.

    • Ouvrez l'iPhone en faisant pivoter l'écran vers le haut en partant du côté gauche, comme s'il s'agissait de la couverture d'un livre.

    • N'essayez pas encore de séparer l'écran complètement, car plusieurs nappes fragiles le relient toujours à la carte mère de l'iPhone.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - Réponse

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Déconnexion de la batterie: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis tri-point Y000 suivantes fixant le cache de la nappe d'écran inférieur à la carte mère :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,6 mm

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Réponse

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Réponse

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Réponse

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Réponse

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Réponse

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Réponse

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - Réponse

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - Réponse

  12. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 12, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 12, image 2 de 2
    • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran inférieur.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Réponse

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Réponse

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Réponse

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Réponse

  13. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 13, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 13, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 13, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Pliez légèrement la nappe du connecteur vers le haut pour éviter un contact avec la prise ce qui risquerait d'alimenter le téléphone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Réponse

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Réponse

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Réponse

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Réponse

  14. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Écran complet: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Assurez vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de toucher aux nappes dans cette étape.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger (spatule) ou d'un ongle, faites levier sur les deux connecteurs d'écran inférieurs afin de les déconnecter de leurs prises sur la carte mère.

    • Pour remettre des connecteurs à pression, appuyez sur un côté jusqu'à ce qu'il se mette en place avec un clic, puis répétez la même chose de l'autre côté. N'appuyez pas sur le milieu. Si le connecteur est ne serait-ce qu'un peu mal aligné, il risque de se tordre et causer des dommages permanents.

    • Si vous avez un écran blanc, des lignes blanches sur l'écran, ou s'il n'y a pas de retour tactile après que vous ayez remonté votre iPhone, essayez de déconnecter et soigneusement reconnecter les deux nappes et vérifiez qu'elles sont bien insérées.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Réponse

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Réponse

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Réponse

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Réponse

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Réponse

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO Gurney - Réponse

  15. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 15, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 15, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Retirez les trois vis tri-point Y000 fixant le support au dessus du connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal:

    • Une vis de 1,3 mm

    • Deux vis de 1,0 mm

    • Retirez le support.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Réponse

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Réponse

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Réponse

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Réponse

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Réponse

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Réponse

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Réponse

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Réponse

  16. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 16, image 1 de 2 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • Déconnectez le connecteur de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ce connecteur à pression doit également être remis un côté à la fois, pour réduire le risque de le tordre.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Réponse

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Réponse

  17. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 17, image 1 de 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Réponse

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Réponse

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Réponse

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

  18. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus, Haut-parleur interne: étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes fixant le cache du haut-parleur interne :

    • Deux vis de 1,8 mm

    • Une vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 2,4 mm

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

  19. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le cache du haut-parleur interne.

  20. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 20, image 1 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 20, image 2 de 3 Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 20, image 3 de 3
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever la caméra frontale hors de son emplacement.

    • Reliez doucement la nappe de la caméra sur le côté pour accéder au haut-parleur interne en dessous.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze - Réponse

    The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.

    I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.

    Federico Montes - Réponse

  21. Remplacement du haut-parleur interne de l'iPhone 7 Plus: étape 21, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le haut-parleur interne.

    • Ne touchez pas les quatre contacts à ressort avec vos doigts : les résidus cutanés peuvent provoquer un dysfonctionnement. Si vous les touchez accidentellement, nettoyez-les délicatement avec de l'alcool isopropylique (90 % ou plus).

    If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.

    Remplacement de la caméra frontale et de la nappe de capteur de l'iPhone 7 Plus

    tgruetzm - Réponse

    I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.

    Maganafixes - Réponse


Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine - il se peut que vous deviez transférer les composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Amenez vos déchets électroniques à un point de recyclage certifié.

La réparation iPhone 7 Plus ne s'est pas passée comme prévu ? Vous pouvez essayer des étapes de dépannage basique ou consulter notre Forum pour obtenir de l'aide.

72 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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Jeff Suovanen

Membre depuis le 06/08/2013

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iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit


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3 commentaires

I did that and the earpiece still did not work… Can the problem be the front camera flex cable (the front camera is working)?

Nick K - Réponse

nicht vergessen: wenn man das iPhone in umgekehrter reihenfolge wieder zusammenbaut, wie hier beschrieben, ist das iPhone nicht mehr wasserdicht.

Georg - Réponse

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