Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer la vitre avant et le tacile d'un iPad Air.

Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.
  • Nous recommandons de nettoyer le micro-ondes avant de commencer. D'éventuels restes au fond risquent d'adhérer à votre iOpener.

  • Placez l'iOpener au centre du micro-ondes.

    • Pour les micro-ondes à plateau tournant : assurez-vous que le plateau tourne bien. Si votre iOpener se coince, il risque de surchauffer et de brûler.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Réponse

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Réponse

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Réponse

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Réponse

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Réponse

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Réponse

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Réponse

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Réponse

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Réponse

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Réponse

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - Réponse

Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.
  • Chauffez l'iOpener pendant trente secondes.

  • Comme l'iOpener refroidit au cours de la réparation, rechauffez-le à nouveau au micro-ondes, mais ne dépassez pas les trente secondes à chaque fois.

  • Faites attention de ne pas surchauffer l'iOpener pendant la réparation. En cas de surchauffe, l'iOpener risque d'exploser.

  • Ne touchez jamais l'iOpener s'il vous paraît gonflé.

  • Si l'iOpener est encore trop chaud au milieu pour le toucher, continuez de l'utiliser jusqu'à ce qu'il ait assez refroidi pour le chauffer à nouveau. Un iOpener correctement chauffé doit rester chaud pendant 10 minutes environ.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Réponse

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Réponse

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Réponse

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Réponse

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Réponse

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Réponse

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Réponse

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Réponse

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Réponse

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Réponse

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Réponse

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Réponse

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Réponse

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - Réponse

  • Sortez l'iOpener du micro-ondes en le tenant par l'une des deux extrémités plates pour éviter le milieu qui est très chaud.

  • L'iOpener sera très chaud, alors soyez prudent en le manipulant. Utilisez un gant de cuisine si nécessaire.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Réponse

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Réponse

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Réponse

  • Si la vitre de votre appareil est fêlée, pour éviter toute autre casse et de vous blesser, il est préférable de scotcher la vitre.

  • Utilisez du ruban adhésif transparent et appliquez-le sur la surface totale de l'écran de votre iPad.

    • Le ruban adhésif va maintenir les éclats de verre et apporter une certaine intégrité à la vitre lorsqu'il sera nécessaire de faire levier et de la soulever.

  • Faites votre nécessaire pour suivre au mieux la suite du guide de démontage. Cependant, une fois que la verre de la façade est cassé, cela va s'empirer avec le démontage et il sera peut-être nécessaire d'utiliser un outil en métal pour faire levier et retirer complètement la vitre de l'iPad.

  • Il est recommandé de porter des lunettes de sécurité pour protéger vos yeux. Attention à ne pas non plus abimer l'écran LCD.

If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

jfmartin67 - Réponse

If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

aaroncope - Réponse

The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

Mike Martin -

If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

Blair Miller - Réponse

Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

notalawyer - Réponse

I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

Vince Asbridge - Réponse

Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

dale kingsbury - Réponse

  • Disposer l'iOpener, une fois chauffé, sur le bord de l'iPad, à gauche du bouton home.

  • Laisser l'iOpener au moins une minute pour ramollir la glue qui maintient le verre.

The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

jfmartin67 - Réponse

The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

kinchma - Réponse

“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

Blair Miller - Réponse

I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

Joel Tyson - Réponse

Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

Travis Dixon - Réponse

The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

Javier Lozada - Réponse

The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  • Même si rien ne se distingue de l'extérieur de l'iPad, il y a de nombreux composants fragiles situés sous la vitre avant. Pour éviter tout dommage, veuillez chauffer et faire levier uniquement dans les zones décrites à chaque étape.

  • En suivant les instructions, évitez absolument de faire levier dans les zones suivantes :

    • Caméra avant

    • Antennes

    • Câbles pour écran

Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

  • Placez précisément une ventouse au milieu de la partie chauffée.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse est bien à plat pour avoir la meilleure traction.

  • En même temps que vous retenez l'iPad vers le bas, tirez progressivement sur la ventouse pour séparer le panneau vitré avant du boitier arrière.

In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

jfmartin67 - Réponse

Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

kinchma - Réponse

It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

Scott S - Réponse

Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

Simone Gabbriellini -

Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

Jeff Suovanen -

The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

Blair Miller - Réponse

After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

Taiji Saotome - Réponse

It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

phongsiri nirachornkul - Réponse

Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

Micah Sledge - Réponse

In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

Jack Williams - Réponse

This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

William Thompson - Réponse

  • Glisser le "médiator" dans la fente obtenue en tirant avec la ventouse.

    • Attention de ne pas introduire le "médiator" plus loin que la marge noire sur le bord de l'écran de l'iPad sous peine d'endommager l'écran LCD.

  • Tirer la tétine de la ventouse afin de libérer l'air et ainsi la décrocher de l'écran.

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  • Réchauffer et replacer le iOpener (toujours du même coté).

    • Attention de ne pas trop chauffer le iOpener pendant le démontage. Attendez toujours au moins 2 minutes avant de le chauffer à nouveau.

This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

Scott - Réponse

Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Placez un deuxième 'médiator' à coté du premier, puis glissez le vers le bas de l'iPad, en décollant le joint au fur et à mesure.

You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

Scott S - Réponse

This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

Corey Barcus -

How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

chrisweiler - Réponse

  • Continuez à déplacer votre médiator vers le bas, le long de votre appareil, afin de décoller le joint

  • Si le médiator reste collé dans le joint, tournez le d'un quart de tour le long du bord de votre iPad, tout en continuant à décoller le joint.

This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

Scott S - Réponse

  • Reprenez le premier médiator que vous aviez précédemment inséré et glissez le vers le coin en haut de votre iPad.

  • Si vous pouvez voir le bout de votre médiator à travers le verre, pas de panique !! tirez le légèrement vers l'arrière. Normalement cela ne devrait pas avoir de conséquences, mais évitez autant que possible, car cela peut déposer de la glue sur l'écran LCD qui sera difficile à enlever par la suite.

I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

What's the best way to clean 'em off?

What's the safest way?

Mike McIntosh - Réponse

What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

Bonnie Baxter - Réponse

  • Réchauffez le iOpener et placez le en haut de votre iPad, sur la caméra avant.

    • Attention de ne pas surchauffer le iOpener durant la procédure de réparation. Attendez au moins deux minutes avant de réchauffer à nouveau votre iOpener.

  • Si vous avez un iOpener souple, vous pouvez le plier pour chauffer en même temps le coin gauche en haut et le haut de votre iPad.

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  • Glisser le médiator le long du coin en haut à gauche de l'iPad pour décoller le joint.

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  • Déplacez le médiator le long du coin supérieur de l'iPad et continuez jusqu'à atteindre la caméra.

  • La troisième photo indique l'emplacement de la caméra frontale et son logement.

    • Évitez de déplacer le médiator sur la caméra. Vous pourriez malencontreusement déposer de la glue sur la lentille, voire l'endommager irrémédiablement. Les étapes suivantes détailleront le meilleurs moyen d'éviter ces désagréments.

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  • Retirez le médiator afin de n'utiliser que son extrémité. Déplacez-le précautionneusement le long de la caméra avant.

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  • Laissez le médiator dans l'iPad juste après avoir passé la caméra.

  • Prenez un second médiator et insérez le à gauche de la caméra Ensuite, déplacez le vers le coin gauche afin de retirer le restant d'adhésif

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  • Enfoncez le médiator précédent plus profondément dans l'iPad et déplacez-le vers le coin droit pour continuer de détacher la vitre

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  • Laissez le médiator au coin de l'iPad afin d'éviter que la vitre ne se recolle

  • Chauffez à nouveau le iOpener et placez le sur le coté de l'iPad, le long des boutons de volume et de verrouillage.

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  • Déplacez le médiator le long du coin supérieur droit afin de retirer l’adhésif.

  • Laissez le médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif ne ré-adhère à la vitre. Prenez en un nouveau pour la prochaine étape.

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  • Insérez le nouveau médiator et déplacez le vers milieu du coté droit de l'iPad, afin de retirer l'adhésif.

  • Les câbles de l'écran sont approximativement situées dans la moitié inférieur de l'iPad. Ne déplacez plus le médiator quand vous arrivez à environ 10 cm du bas de l'iPad.

Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

Blair Miller - Réponse

Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

Sam Lionheart -

My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

Dylan Bouterse - Réponse

And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

David - Réponse

  • Laissez le médiator en place et placez le iOpener, chaud, sur le bouton home et le bas de l'écran

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  • Déplacez le médiator situé en bas, à gauche, vers le coin de l'iPad pour détacher l'adhésif.

  • Laissez le médiator en place, sur le coin. n'allez pas plus loin et ne le retirez pas

  • Vous pouvez voir, sur la troisième photo, le berceau du bouton home et les deux antennes, situés dans la partie inférieur de l'iPad.

    • Les prochaines étapes donneront les directives précises afin d'éviter d'endommager les composants. Ne chauffer et faites levier qu'aux endroits expressément indiqués.

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  • Laissez le médiator utilisé dans la dernière étape en place pour éviter que l'adhésif ne ré-adhère.

  • Avec un nouveau médiator, faites le glisser en douceur du coté gauche de l'antenne vers le bouton "home".

    • Faites glisser le médiator uniquement de l'extérieur vers le centre de l'Ipad. Ne revenez pas en arrière, vous pourriez endommager l'antenne.

    • Si vous devez faire glisser le médiator une nouvelle fois, ré-insérer le à partir du coté gauche et faites le glisser vers la droite.

  • Laissez le médiator en place avant d'aller plus loin.

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  • Prenez un nouveau médiator et insérer le juste à droite du précédent.

  • Faites le glisser à partir du bouton home en allant vers la droite en utilisant seulement l'extrémité du médiator pour retirer l'adhésif.

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  • Comme l'adhésion a été diminuée, vous pouvez maintenant insérer le médiator dans le coin en bas à droite

    • Comme pour l'antenne du coté gauche, faites glisser le médiator seulement de l'extérieur vers l'intérieur. Faute de quoi vous déteriorerez l'antenne.

I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.

Fin Hirschoff - Réponse

  • Faites chauffer à nouveau le iOpener et appliquez le du coté du contrôle du son de l'iPad.

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  • Faites très attention avec cette étape. Prenez votre temps et assurez vous que l'adhésif reste chaud, mou et que vous avez décollé tout l'adhésif avec un médiator tout autour de l'iPad. N'hésitez pas à faire une pause et de réchauffer l'adhésif.

  • Du coté opposé aux contrôleurs de volume, vous devez avoir deux médiators insérés dans chaque coin. Faites tourner délicatement les médiators de manière à soulever doucement la vitre, séparant le reste d'adhésif le long du bord du câble de l'écran.

  • Si vous sentez de la résistance, laissez les médiators en place, réchauffez le iOpener et appliquez le de nouveau sur les zones problématiques.

You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

Travis Dixon - Réponse

  • Soulevez lentement et doucement pour continuer à détacher l'adhésif le long du bord de l'écran.

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  • En tenant l'écran d'une main, utilisez un médiator pour couper l'adhésif restant.

  • Faites attention de ne pas couper ou endommager les câbles de l'écran.

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  • Une fois que tout l'adhésif a été séparé, ouvrez la vitre avant comme une page dans un livre et reposez-le sur votre plan de travail.

  • Lors du remontage, nettoyez les restes de l'adhésif de l'étui (et de la vitre avant si vous le réutilisez) avec de l'alcool isopropylique et remplacez l'adhésif par des bandes adhésives pré-découpées.

  • Une nappe est vite coincée entre le panneau frontal et le châssis de l'iPad lors du remontage. Faites attention aux nappes et veillez à les replier et insérer délicatement sous le châssis. Si vous appuyez trop et que vous aplatissez complètement les plis d'une nappe, vous risquez de l'endommager de façon irréversible.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Retirez tout morceau de bande adhésive recouvrant les vis de l'écran LCD.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Retirez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes fixant l'écran LCD.

    • Trois vis de 4,0 mm

    • Une vis de 4,8 mm

Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

Brecht Bocket - Réponse

  • N'essayez pas d'enlever complètement l'écran LCD. Il est toujours connecté à l'iPad par plusieurs câbles du côté du bouton home. Soulevez-le uniquement du côté de la caméra avant.

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour faire levier sur l'écran LCD et le retirer juste assez de son emplacement pour le saisir avec vos doigts.

  • Retournez l'écran LCD de l'iPad comme la page d'un livre, en le soulevant près de la caméra et le tournant sur l'extrémité du bouton home de la coque arrière.

    • Opérez délicatement et gardez un œil sur les nappes LCD lorsque vous retournez l'écran.

  • Posez l'écran LCD sur sa face avant pour accéder aux nappes d'écran.

    • Mettez l'écran LCD sur une surface douce, propre et non pelucheuse.

Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

Cobus de Beer - Réponse

  • Retirez la seule vis cruciforme #000 de 2,3 mm fixant le connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère.

  • Pour réduire le risque d'un court-circuit, vous pouvez utiliser un médiator d'isolation de batterie pour débrancher la batterie.

    • Faites glisser un médiator d'isolation de batterie en dessous de la zone de connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère et laissez-la en place pendant votre travail.

after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

Matt - Réponse

Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

Drew -

Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

goodcyning - Réponse

I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

Peter Gray - Réponse

A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

dougintexas - Réponse

Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

Tech-ER - Réponse

  • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #000 de 1,4 mm du cache de la nappe d'écran.

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  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites délicatement levier sur le cache de la nappe d'écran pour le soulever de la carte mère.

  • Le connecteur de la nappe d'écran est collé sur la face inférieure du cache, donc ne poussez pas le spudger trop loin sous le support, ou vous risquez d'endommager le connecteur.

bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

originalpaintballpanda2 - Réponse

I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: ネジ山が潰れたネジを取り出す方法

goodcyning -

Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

gwarren - Réponse

  • Enlevez l'écran LCD.

Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

Travis Dixon - Réponse

  • Retirez la bande adhésive qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.

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  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire pivoter le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF de la nappe du bouton home.

  • Retirez avec précaution la nappe du bouton home tout droit hors du connecteur ZIF.

I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

Moses Roman - Réponse

Moses Roman

Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

Bilal Kinali - Réponse

I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

daviddesignbristol - Réponse

I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

Please give us some feedback.

Elektromic - Réponse

Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

RayM - Réponse

To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

Have fun!

Josh - Réponse

Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

Luis Tamborrell -

Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

Neil Davis -

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle pour ouvrir avec précaution les deux connecteurs des câbles du tactile directement de leur prise.

  • Pour éviter d'endommager votre iPad, ne faites levier que sur les connecteurs eux-mêmes, et non sur leur prise sur la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Décollez soigneusement la nappe du bouton home de l'adhésif la fixant au boîtier arrière.

THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

scottgogos - Réponse

  • Retirez l'ensemble du panneau frontal.

  • Lors du remontage, assurez vous de bien essuyez toute poussière ou empreinte de doigts sur la face intérieure de la vitre frontale pour avoir un affichage bien propre.

  • Lors du remontage, pour éviter les problèmes d'entrée tactile «fantôme» avec votre iPad, vérifiez qu'il y a bien une couche de mousse ou de bande adhésive sur le cadre métallique à l'arrière du verre.

    • Ces zones, qui font partie de la vitre tactile, sont recouvertes d'un adhésif en mousse sur le panneau frontal original de votre iPad. Certaines pièces de rechange laissent cette zone exposée, ce qui peut provoquer la mise à la terre contre d'autres composants. Vous pouvez les protéger en ajoutant une couche de ruban isolant très mince, comme la bande adhésive Polyamide (Kapton).

In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

Joe Kazura - Réponse

the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

TJ Hellmuth - Réponse

The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

This was a very good ifix ii

Rowell - Réponse

Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

xsubguy - Réponse

It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

Randall Hooper - Réponse

I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

tsolorio - Réponse

Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

Micah Sledge - Réponse

Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

Ronny Barlow - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

458 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Sam Lionheart

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59 commentaires

Actually, I didnt remove the crashed front panel(the old one) as this guide. The edge of front panel didnt stick so much with the cover case, so I use force to tear off the crumbled edge. Be prepared for the "dust of glass", it will really hurt your body, if you plan to do as my way.

Additionally, there is another difficulty part of me. When I stick the new panel on. There is always some small dust between the screen and the front panel.

yzg1199 - Réponse

Great guide, a lot harder with a cracked screen due to no flat surfaces for suction cup but eventually got it off, thanks

Billy Rooke - Réponse

How to put it back? LCD + digitizer do not want to "cooperate" in ribbons area

jacekzarzecki - Réponse

Use the spudger to gently push or pull them into the slot. That's what I did. It's charging now so I don't know if it works yet or not

Kristin Mcgeehan -

Assembled back with a new digitizer. Powered on.

1. Screen keeps to be black, no image. Put on a charger, iPad makes "boing" sound very quite every 10 seconds or so. Plugged it into a Macbook Air, iPad show up in iTunes and iFoto, all data can be accessed.

2. Suddenly, after few minutes connected to the Macbook Air, iPad boot screen appears on iPad and device boots-up.

3. Now, input is very sporadic and unreliable. Device keeps selecting items on its own and starting apps on its own, doesn't react reliably to user input. Seems as if the digitizer or its connection is damaged. Hard to tell, everything went ok, only problem was the removal of the old adhesive to have a plain surface for the new one.

As is, this is a failure, device does not work as expected. Data is safe though.

Marc - Réponse

Seems to be the same problem talked about here at step 39 (don't know why under 39 this is why I didn't see it in the first place.

The guide does tell you to put a narrow piece of tape at the bottom left and right from the home button. I will try this now and hope it helps. I guess it is this problem since the digitizer works perfectly once detached from the screen. A picture of this would be very helpful since it is not clear, how far this tape should go. I will try a complete cover of this area but the downside is, that there will be some space that may hinder the adhesive. I'll see.

I covered the whole bottom copper with tape, digitizer still glues on the frame and... everything is shiny and works as expected. Hence don't forget this tape. Glad I reopened the device, first I was reluctant and wanted to call it a failure, now I have a working iPad again.

Marc -

Now I did some 6h of testing, digitizer works good, only thing that happens now is that the magnetic cover does wake up the iPad when opened and let it sleep when closed, so that is ok but now it also sleeps the device if you open the cover (device wake up) and wrap it 180 degrees around the iPad (as is one of the resting positions). Guess I did something wrong in the inside.

Marc - Réponse

Tremendous guide!

Omar Lasanta - Réponse

I'm studying the instructions, getting ready to fix my iPad. My questions is, what type of tape do I use to tape the copper/silver on the digitizer? Will normal scotch tape work as I have around the house, or do I need a specialized type of tape?

David Carroll - Réponse

You need to ether use kapton tape mate or electrical works good to

Dillon -

I had some trouble with the touch ribbon cable, when i close the iPad touch go crazy.

Danilo - Réponse

Great video and great picture quality as is the text to go with it i had followed every single step, as i have patience of a saint, only my problem is before i fully stick it down i have tested it by switching it on and nothing, put the charger through and left for 5 minutes as battery was 30% anyway, so probably drained over the last few days while i was away from the office to await a new part to arrive. Is there something i am doing wrong or not. thankyou for your patience and answering this question hopefully.

waynenotley - Réponse

I have a problem after the replacement, after a month or so, the screen or display start shacking when I press the touchscreen, somebody told me it was the censors, anyone can help me?

Luis Tamborrell - Réponse

I had an issue with replacing the digitizer after replacing the battery on the A1474. The digitizer cracked during removal while doing the battery replacement. All went well with the battery replacement, although this is quite a difficult repair to do. When I installed the digitizer after the new replacement arrived from Amazon, I tested it before sealing everything together. All tests passed, no problems. When I got the unit repealed (everything working), I noticed a tiny spec of lint or something on the interior of the glass between the LCD and the digitizer. I had to take the unit apart again to clean the spec off, and when I re-assembled, the digitizer doesn't work now. I have never had this happen before despite doing a lot of screen replacements. I see from others posts, that Kapton tape is required to be placed at the bottom of the digitizer to avoid 'digitizers gone wild' like I am experiencing. Ordering Kapton tape today. Wondering if anyone is experiencing this with the iFixit Digitizers.

David Hoffman - Réponse

Screen removal: Be sure to heat the adhesive to at least 135f

xocornhole69 - Réponse

I wear latex gloves when dealing with the screen and LCD. Upon disassembly, the parts go on a clean sheet of printer paper, then covered with more paper. Then, before assembling i use one of those compressed air keyboard spray cans to remove dust.

xocornhole69 - Réponse

This is great for the hi rez pics but anyone planning on doing this should seriously watch one of the numerous videos on youtube

Elpoep - Réponse

replaced LCD on iPad air that I bought from iFixit. Instructions were good, but the digitizer removal didnt work ask expected. Suction cup and iOpener would not work. I had to use a hair dryer and a razor blade to start. Made a couple very minor nicks in the metal edge, but I use an Otterbox case so you'll never see them anyway. So far, everything is still working. I thought there would be some kind of digitizer calibration, but everything fits so tight I guess it's not needed.

kinchma - Réponse

The guide only states heating the iOpener in 30 second intervals with a minimum of 2 minutes in between heating sessions. I found this to be in adequate. I heated the iOpener for 40 seconds and it, indeed, came out of the microwave a lot hotter! I placed it on the left side of the iPad, from top to bottom, for about 15 seconds then placed the suction cup in-front of the iOpener on the left side middle edge of the screen and scooted the iOpener back and pushing down on the suction cup. The extra temp of the iOpener is transferred through the glass really quick. I pulled up and the adhesive became very malleable. Maybe try some extra heating of the iOpener next time to use it properly. I have used the hair dryer method in the past and the iOpener is by far the easiest and cleanest method I that tried.

Joshua Sullivan -

If you screen is very cracked you might want to consider going for the complete screen assembly. When I got mine apart the clip the holds the button to the screen was too damaged to use. Strangely the clip isn't listed as a part of the iPad Air 1st get if you navigate through the iFixit website looking for iPad Air 1st gen parts but it's for sale here iPad Air Home Button Bracket weird.

James - Réponse

I just accomplished this guide yesterday with an iFixit repair kit (digitizer and tools).

My question is, if we covered the metal part by the home button with tape and our digitizer is still freaking out. Do, or can, we send it back to iFixit as a warranty problem?

Joshua Sullivan - Réponse

I completed this repair successfully with no major issues, and it works well enough that I am writing this from the said iPad, but the touchscreen does not work well or at all near bottom corner to the left of the home button (although as far as I have used it it has not "gone wild" yet). Does anybody else have this problem or have an idea on how to solve it?

juliefarbarik - Réponse

How do you remove the home button bracket and home button?

I need to transfer my home button to the new piece of glass but there's no instruction as to how to remove the button from the old glass. I assume it's adhesive because I don't see any screws, but I also don't want to bend or damage the bracket.

evankirsh - Réponse

Correct, it's very strong adhesive. You'll need a lot of heat, patience, and a very thin pry tool or blade to separate it. Wear gloves and eye protection as it's easy to break the glass in the process. The iPad 4 procedure is similar enough that you can use it as a rough guide (although the Air is more difficult IMO). If you're doing more than one, skip the hassle and pick up a replacement panel with the home button preinstalled.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you Jeff for the reply. I just wish this guide included step-by-step instructions how to do this. How exactly do I get the home button assembly back on the new screen? What type of adhesive do I use? How do I apply the new bezel adhesive?

So many questions, I wish I bought the panel with home button pre-installed, but it's too late now.

evankirsh -

No worries, it's still a perfectly do-able repair! Here's a video of the process for reference. For re-adhering the button, a bit of Loctite super glue should do the trick. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Sent my iPad in for a repair for a replacement screen, and the company have replied

Your device has suffered damage to the top right section of the front

screen. Directly underneath this impact area sits the power/volume flex.

This component connects the power button and volume buttons to the main

board. Based on previous repairs, we have found that if this component is

not repaired then it may cause issues in the future; potentially resulting

in the part either developing a fault or failing completely. This would

result in not being able to turn the device on and off using the power

button and/or be able to control the silent/mute switch and volume buttons.

I have replied saying just to repair the screen they have come back with this

I

Zoe Ellis - Réponse

Due to the damage we cannot guarantee how long the component will work

for. From past experience we have found if not replaced it can cause

reliability issues in the future. The technician has therefore recommended

this is replaced. The added problem is that to repair this component at a

later date involves having to break the screen to gain access to the

component, which would then incur further costs.

We would be happy to offer the repair at a discounted price of £29.99 on

this occasion as a good will gesture as some of the work would have already

been carried out. This will of course include a 12 month warranty on the

repair for your peace of mind.

Please Note; If a recommendation is declined and this part later fails, this

will not be covered under warranty and may incur further charges.

Please advise how you would like to proceed.

I feel that they just want more money from me. Your views would be appreciated

Kind regards

Zoe Ellis - Réponse

Please help me proplem touch screen after chang digitizer

عصام خضر - Réponse

Great guide!

I did run into two issues after following it though:

1) After I start up the ipad and the get the Apple logo the screen goes black, but if I hold down the power button I get the power off screen and I can click cancel to get me to the lock screen that asks me to press the home button to open, but this leads me to the next issue

2) when click the home button, nothing happens. I've taken the screen off for the second time and made sure the cable and latch are connected securely, and still nothing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Gary Yee - Réponse

After having replaced a couple of iPhone screens, this was a real breeze having had the prior experience. Thanks again. BTW, I used a blow dryer in conjunction with the iOpener to remove old screen.

Brandon Van Leer - Réponse

A proud dad: My wonderful seven year-old performed all of the steps after the (admitedly tricky) removal of the digitizer, this with a little supervision but she was following the instructions herself. She has much more delicate control than me for these tiny components :-). Thank you for this fabulous guide. Agreed with other readers that two unphotographed steps of the reassembly are stress inducing and hazardous: The pads either side of the home button, and tucking in the cables.

Ralph Purtscher - Réponse

GREAT!

I wrote a flowing commentary on my success using these instructions...wouldn't post.

SO I'll just say, take your time, have a clean work area and use magnifyer glasses!

Thanks again!

1JohnEd - Réponse

Great guide that proved successful for me as well! Only improvement to the guide I would suggest is around the heating pad and time of application. The first 30 second zap does not get it as hot as waiting 10 minutes and zapping again in the microwave. From there on in 10 minute increments it is at a good temperature. Applying for 3 to 5 minutes at a time seemed necessary but perhaps it the glue on the older iPads is even more stubborn. Spudger made for a good clean out tool for the glue, tape, and glass bits. Total time for me was 4 hours but the glass was really broken and lots of working around that.

edl - Réponse

I followed the instructions to the letter. However, the instructions leave out what to do about the Home button. I used the Digitizer assembly intact and put everything back together and the Home button did not operate though it was in as assembled. It would be nice if the Repair Guides had a little troubleshooting help. I have followed several dozen of iFixit Repair Guides in the past from B&W G3 days through all the iPhones and this is the one thing wanting in the guides.

David Larson - Réponse

Hi David—If your home button isn't responding, I'd probably start by re-seating the ribbon cable connector and inspecting the ribbon cable for damage. I happen to agree with you about adding a post-repair troubleshooting/FAQ section to the guides. I think that's a great idea. For now, try posting your question in our Answers forum—there are lots of helpful folks in there who can offer troubleshooting suggestions.

Jeff Suovanen -

Everything went fine.

I do notice now however that when I open the magnetic cover and place it against the back of the iPad, it goes to sleep.

Im not sure if this procedure affects the magnets.

The only way to stop this is to turn off the auto on/off when you close the cover.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

kurt heuser - Réponse

I only have to replace the glass, so I'm making sure I don't have to replace the digitizer to, am I correct in this? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Susan Canavas

scanavas1 - Réponse

The glass and digitizer come as a single component—there's no practical way to replace one without the other. That said, the glass/digitizer assembly is very inexpensive.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did it! But had to use a heat gun because the shards were too small to be removed. It took more than 3 hours, but when I got the old glass panel out, it was a very smooth job.

Josue Acosta - Réponse

As others have pointed out: With a completely shattered glass, especially on the left side, the first steps of this guide are only vaguely useful. Be creative! A trick I discovered is that there is a hollow area beneath the glass and above the lcd. The glass was broken completely there, and I was able to crack the glass along the entire left edge from there, slowly but surely, using the edge of the pick as a saw. Finally I could get beneath the edge and follow the guide on the bottom and top, and then again use the sawing technique on the right side. In the end I could lift off the (rest of) the digitizer, and finally scrape the remaining glass and adhesive off the aluminium bezel. It was not a very clean operation, but it worked.

Sigve Indregard - Réponse

I really have to ask:

What ever happened to Gorilla Glass?

Obviously the glass on iPad Air can simply shatter just playing RealRacing3

being throttle is right at edge of hole of home button,

and if heavy duty case has slightly off center access hole

to home button, this is in fact how mine shattered,

Cruising Le'mans circuit 243 mph requires full throttle,

seriously...

Philscbx - Réponse

Search results:

Apple products are not listed

https://www.corning.com/gorillaglass/wor...

Philscbx - Réponse

I was hoping there was internal messaging option here, so Ill just

ask if you have time to do a screen

repair., all prepaid door to door.

I just moved or Id attempt mission

myself, and at the moment, have a stack of repair tools sitting in the cart here, to attack it with.

I still use the iPad some, but its so glitchy with phantom actions, and 2 days ago, my 09'MacBook Pro just died, so I'm down to my V20 just purchased 2 months ago.

If not able, we'll gladly use a reference.

Thanks

Phil, Mpls Mn.

Philscbx - Réponse

Worked smooth for me. Pain in the behind getting the screen off. With patience it came off in about 90 minutes and then it was smooth sailing.

ablits82492 - Réponse

Great!

First time I did something like this. Now that I have the experience, it will only take me 15 minutes next time! Broke the cracked screen when trying to pry it out. Wow! That screen bursts into a fine cloud of dust. Make sure you wear eye protection. Unless you know what you are doing, you will probably break the screen while trying to remove it. Even if it does, just keep going, it won't effect the outcome, it just gets a little messy.

iPad works like new! Few tricky moments, but once you figure it out, you will appreciate the way iPads have been designed. minimal fuss and as easy to put together as a Lego kit!

Steve Bosman - Réponse

Cracked screen replacement went well. Had to use a hair dryer instead of the iOpener. Has any experienced this issue after reassembly…. Randomly the screen seems to go into sleep mode. Sometimes it doesn’t do it, sometimes it happens after a few minutes. The screen will go black and have to be unlocked again… Any advice would be helpful, I don’t believe any of the cables were pinched or messed up during assembly.

Alex Craig - Réponse

Started with a badly cracked screen so removal in the suggested manner didn’t work. In the end it took several hours to slowly work the shattered screen off using Spudger and razor knife (be slow and methodical if you go this route as a slip it drop can damage the LCD. Once the old one was removed the rest was easy. Not sure if I could have removed the old one in a single piece even if it wasn’t already shattered

final warning on the heat pad. Accidentally hit 3 minutes on the microwave rather than 30 seconds. Now that was a mess!!!

Ken DeRoo - Réponse

I fixed my wife’s co-worker Ipad air Wi-Fi tonight. this guide was very helpful. I had to replace the front panel. only thing I think this guide is missing is a how replace the home button and ribbon. other then that.  Thanks for the great guide.

jac02874 - Réponse

Fantastic guide! Easy to follow, in my case I had splintered glass which made the removal of the digitiser harder to get off but once that was done the rest of the process went smooth even the use of the polyimde tape. Put it all back together and everything works perfectly with no glitches.

Thank you so much for putting together this guide.

cheers Owen

Owen Petersen - Réponse

Gerade Fertig geworden! Perfekte Anleitung! Wichtig ist das gute abkleben des Glases wenn es euch gesprungen ist, außerdem behutsam mit dem LCD Panel umgehen und vor Staub schützen während dem “lagern” ;-) … Klasse! Vielen Dank

Daniel Welzenbach - Réponse

thank you for god discription

I have Problem to disconect the accu from mainboard.

Have you got i idea for me?

Thank you very much for answer, i will not damage the board

i use razor blade to separeta the glas but you mus be very carefol that you not damage home button ribbon

christian - Réponse

This was my first Ipad Air WiFi replacement. It went off without a hitch. A couple observations or comments.

#1- Check if everything else is working before you begin, i.e. The headphone jack, Front and Rear Cameras, WiFi and Bluetooth, Home Button, Volume buttons, Speaker, EVERYTHING.

#2 - You don’t have to mess with the battery if the battery is drained.

#3 - BUY THE TAPE THAT GOES BETWEEN THE LCD AND DIGITIZER BEFORE YOU BEGIN !!!

Oscar Fernandez - Réponse

#4 - Once you have folded the digitizer to the side, study the digitizer with the new one and visualize how and where the ribbons go. THEN CUT THE RIBBON FROM THE BROKEN DIGITIZER. There is no need to be fumbing with a broken digitizer all over the place.

#5- PRACTICE WITH THE CUT-OFF RIBBONS. When you get to the part of removing conections…Connect them again…Get a feel of how to make these connections if it’s your first time. It will reduce the percentage of you bending the connections of the new digitizer AND you won’t have a feeling of, “how the heck does this connect”.

#6 Finally DENTS, DENTS, DENTS…If the ipad has dents anywhere ESPECIALLY on the corners, the new digitizer WILL NOT go in and be flush with a dented Ipad frame. You have to buy the tool to fix dented corners or learn how to fix and straighten dents somehow.

Oscar Fernandez - Réponse

just finished this repair after a cracked screen. The lcd looked basically ok.

iPad looks like this now:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a09mkbnpgj8di0...

any idea what’s the problem?

friesdan - Réponse

The iOpener heating thing was not effective...a heat gun worked much better. The guitar picks to open the ipad were a joke, that glue is so strong it needs a metal spatula style tool to really get in there (other companies have this). A suction cup to open the glass, which was badly cracked, also didn't work at all, giving more reason for needing a metal spatula. No mention was made in the guide that you'd need new adhesive to use the old home button, which would have been helpful, now I have a sunken in home button. The end of the guide mentions a certain tape you need to isolate the screen electrically, but doesn't say that that tape is included with the new glass purchased from ifixit, which is clearly misleading so that you will think you need to buy the tape (which you don't actually need). On top of all this, I can see lines in the new glass, which is clearly not as high end as the OEM glass. The guide and tools suggested were just not good enough for this very difficult repair.

Zack Howard - Réponse

It is a difficult repair—sorry you had a bad time. The Kapton tape instruction was clearly written to cover all the bases, not to gouge customers—people buy cheap, poorly insulated panels from all over the place, but still use iFixit guides to install them and then they complain here when the repair fails. We update the guides to try and help everyone succeed, even if they don’t buy their parts here. Also, having done this repair a few times, I disagree about using a metal tool—if you need that much force, you haven’t gotten the panel hot enough. Your home button adhesive comment is fair—we wrote this guide for the “full assembly” panel that comes with a new home button preinstalled, which is why there are no instructions for transferring the home button, but it would be nice if we had a longer version for folks who need it. As far as lines in the glass, if you are unhappy with the quality of the part I’d recommend you contact the customer service team directly and they will probably send you a replacement.

Jeff Suovanen -

thanks for your help my ipad is now fixed for less than $20. mine was really badly smashed up got glass shards everywhere but after carefull cleaning complete success like brand new. thanks

james snaith - Réponse

The only advise I would add is to check that your LCD is not damaged before sticking new digitizer to aluminum body. Mine looked to be in good shape but luckily I checked it first before re-assembling digitizer and it had been damaged. My other advise is if your Digitizer is shattered bad like mine was you will need to use an Exacto knife to work the broken adhered edges off aluminum frame after softening adhesive and be prepared to spend a lot more time removing glass and small debris from inside Ipad body.

Jason Carney - Réponse

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