Introduction
After searching for hours on the internet to find some instructions to be able to remove stuck grounds from my Cuisinart DGB 850 coffee maker, I decided to tackle the problem myself.
Starting with the DGB-850, Cuisinart has sealed off the ability for the customer to clean the grinder. To their credit, ours has worked flawlessly for the past two years, but just recently, I accidentally started a grind and stopped it a few seconds into it. It then started to brew. That resulted in wet grounds in the grinder.
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The Cuisinart DGB-850 is a great "Grind and Brew" 10-cup coffee maker and we've been very happy with it. One drawback thou is on this model (and ones going forward) Cuisinart has disallowed the ability for the user to clean out the grinder hooper shoot. Ours has worked reliably for about 2 years.
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But recently I accidentally stopped the grind in the middle of the cycle and because of this, coffee started to brew and the grind in the grinder and became wet and stuck in the grinder. I've heard of other customers who had a power failure durning the middle of the grind and the same thing happened to them.
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Unfortunately, Cuisinart has made it almost impossible to get at the grinder to clean it out manually because the domed cap is permanently molded to the bean hopper shoot area and there is no visible way to remove the hopper shute. Fortunately, being a Product Designer, I figured out how to get to the grinder to clean it.
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before disassembling, I would first recommend that if you have an air compressor or compressed air canister ( purchased at a hobby store) attach a small vinyl hose to it (6mm or smaller) and stick it down into the opening underneath the dome to blow out the stuck grind. Be sure to let the grinder dry for at least 24 hours before doing this.
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But if compressed air does not work, the following is to show you how to disassemble the hopper from the coffee maker so that you can get to the grinder to clean.
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The first step is with a spudger (I like to use a no. 11 Xacto chisel blade) carefully lift the snap panel in front of the hopper area. Start at the outmost corners and carefully pry/lift at the parting line until all the snaps are free and the panel is removed.
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Once the panel is removed, you will see three M2.5 self-threading Phillips screws underneath. Remove these.
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Now open the water door and in the rear corners you will see at left and right rear corners a small screw plugs at each corner. Unfortunately, this will be impossible to remove without damage. So I decided to drill them out with a 1/8" drill to remove them.
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An alternate method to remove the plugs (that I didn't try) is to try hot-melt glue a stir-stick to the top of the plug to see if you can remove it this way.
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Once these are removed, then you can get to the two M2.5 self-tapping screws underneath them. Remove them.
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The last step in removing the hopper is to overcome the two snaps at the top of the rear housing. Using a medium flat-blade screwdriver, press into the slot while at the same time lifting up on the hopper housing. until the snap hook is released. Do this for both left and right hooks.
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Now you can lift the bean hopper housing from the outer housing. You can now look directly into the hopper shute and see your stuck grounds. At this point, you can easily clean out any stuck grounds.
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because I pretty much destroyed the screw plugs, and because I have a 3D printer, I just printed some new plugs and use them to replace the ones that I destroyed.
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If you don't have a 3D printer, you could then, when reassembling, Insert and tighten the screws. Then, hot melt glue the hole to fill it. This should work fine to avoid water ingress.
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Now you can reassemble the three screws in the front and replace the snap cover panel and you're good to go.
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Reverse order of disassembly to reassemble.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
6 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
4 commentaires de tutoriel
This worked great! All told sans waiting for the 242 to dry to pull out the plugs. It might’ve taken me an hour start to finish. I don’t have a 3-D printer so I didn’t want to destroy those plugs and I want to be able to get back to the screws for when I plug up the grinder again. We drink dark coffee so it’s a little bit oily and the first chunk that came out of the grinder was the size of a black olive and it was hard as a rock.
Worked great to get into the grinder. I would add I went a step further and removed the grinder/motor, took off the front section and cleaned in there as well.
Great instructions! Fortunately for me, I read elsewhere that SOMETIMES if you "push and hold the BREW button" it will force the grinder to run. I had tried this once or twice with no results, then, as a last resort before I started disassembly, I did the push and hold for about 10 seconds and suddenly the grinder started spinning! It bounced a few beans out the top (lid was off) and deposited about a tablespoon of ground coffee into the basket. From that point I loaded fresh beans and it seems to be working fine.
A bit of back-story... I got myself into this mess because I mistakenly thought I had emptied the basket, hit brew and tried to force a 12 cup grind into a full basket. It bogged down to a halt and did nothing but make a sound like something was slipping inside. I emptied it as best I could and let it sit on the counter for 2 weeks, then used my shop vac to suck everything I could from the top and bottom. Same result, until I tried the trick above.
