Ce tutoriel vous explique comment installer un second disque dur dans votre iMac 27" EMC 2390.


Aucune pièce nécessaire.

  1. Desserrez les trois vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée en dessous de votre iMac.
    • Desserrez les trois vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée en dessous de votre iMac.

    • Ces vis captives sont intégrées à la trappe d'accès.

    • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

    • Lors du remontage, fixez la trappe d'accès sans serrer, puis alignez-la sur l'ouverture du compartiment mémoire dans le boîtier extérieur de l'iMac avant de serrer les vis à fond.

    I am going to put a very important comment here. Before you start this process listen to the fans on your iMac do any of them sound obviously loud (think about how quiet your iMac used to sound as a reference) If you notice one or more of them sounding substantially loud compared to the others consider locating a replacement fan prior starting this process. After all if you are already “in the neighborhood” it is a shame to do all this work only to have to disassemble your imac a couple weeks later because you realize the fan is failing. I speak from my own personal learning experience of having to disassembly my iMac 3 weeks later because the HDD was failing and apparently the moving the fan around was just enough to push it to start really under performing.

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    I’m not sure why it is necessary to remove the RAM. As far as I can tell, it can remain in place during this procedure.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

  2. À l'aide de vos doigts ou de la pointe d'un spudger, sortez la languette d'extraction en plastique noir de l'emplacement de la RAM.
    • À l'aide de vos doigts ou de la pointe d'un spudger, sortez la languette d'extraction en plastique noir de l'emplacement de la RAM.

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    • Tirez sur la languette en plastique noir pour éjecter le module de RAM de son emplacement.

    • Les modules RAM sont solidement installés. Il faudra tirer dessus assez fortement pour les retirer.

    • À l'aide de vos doigts, faites glisser le module de RAM hors de l'emplacement.

    • Si nécessaire, répétez l'opération pour les autres modules de RAM.

    How many 4MB cards can I install?

    nowsc - Réponse

    None. 4mb ram is too old to fit into any computer manufactured after like 1998.

    Brett Davison - Réponse


    I suggest that you learn your unit symbols before you try to appear clever:

    4mb == 4 milli bits

    4MB == 4 mega bytes

    nowsc was obviously meaning 4GB not 4MB, try not to be a dick.

    Simon - Réponse

    Take care to note which way out the RAM comes - there is a notch in each RAM and it is not centered, therefore either the notch will be on the left or to the right (depending on which way up you have your iMac). This will make it easier to replace the RAM without damaging anything.

    Mike Haines - Réponse

    If damaged the notch inside one pair of RAM slots, is it fixable ?

    Gavriil Bordyukov - Réponse

    • Collez une ventouse dans chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre.

    • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre (comme illustré dans les première et deuxième photographies).

    • Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée (comme illustré dans la troisième photographie).

    • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

    • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour porter l'écran. Si l'une d'entre elles se détache, l'écran risque de tomber.

    • L'emballage d'origine de votre iMac est un endroit sûr pour conserver votre écran. Sinon, vous pouvez aussi étaler une serviette sur une table et poser l'écran dessus.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - Réponse

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - Réponse

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - Réponse

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - Réponse

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this:

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - Réponse

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - Réponse

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    • Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.

    • Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté.

    • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour transporter le panneau en verre - Si l'une ou l'autre des ventouses venait à se détacher, le panneau pourrait tomber et se briser.

    • Après avoir déposé prudemment le panneau en verre, assurez-vous de retirer les ventouses, car la force de succion pourrait à la longue briser le verre.

    • Lors de la réinstallation, veillez à nettoyer soigneusement l'intérieur de la vitre et la face avant de l'écran LCD, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - Réponse

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - Réponse

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - Réponse

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - Réponse

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - Réponse

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - Réponse

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 par lesquelles l'écran LCD est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    The replacement display I received did not have a bracket around the edges so I can reinstall it. On the old display, it seems the bracket is screwed in, but even with all screws removed, I cannot get it to budge. Is there a trick? Is this even possible?

    wooten1138 - Réponse

    Reassembly: be careful with the screws! The magnets attract them and the screwdriver as well! Better to use a screwdriver without replaceable end insert. I had to use one of this second type and I struggled a lot!

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    Try this easy GPU fix before buying a new graphics card! It fixed the white screen issue on my EMC 2374.

    adamg5 - Réponse

    • Avec précaution, posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane.

    • En raison des tolérances étroites, vous devrez utiliser un outil fin recourbé pour soulever l'écran hors du boîtier externe. Nous nous sommes servis d'un trombone plié, comme illustré dans la troisième photographie.

    • Utilisez un outil fin recourbé pour soulever un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran hors de son cadre extérieur en acier.

    • Après avoir soulevé un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran, maintenez-le hors du cadre tout en soulevant l'autre côté à l'aide d'un outil recourbé.

    • Lorsque vous soulevez le bord supérieur de l'écran hors du boîtier, n'allez pas trop loin, car les deux composants sont toujours reliés par plusieurs câbles-rubans courts.

    Be careful with any tool while lifting the edge of the display. Under the top left edge of the display sits the bluetooth-antenna-connector. I pulled it out while lifting. It was not such a great problem, cause i could just plug it in again. But maybe you could cut the small cable depending on the tool you use to lift.

    Gee - Réponse

    The display is quite heavy, an is fitted with a tight tolerance. I found it very difficult and dangerous, lifting it with any tool in one corner while the iMac was lying down. Instead, after removing the T10 screws, it was quite easy pulling the display out of the iMac with my fingers on both sides, while the iMac was in the upright position. By doing that, you can easily hold the display with one hand and reach for the connecting cables with the other

    Georg P - Réponse

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches to the inner top of the display but all the pics show the display completely removed after all cables are disconnected without the short ribbon cable intact. Does this short ribbon cable have a purpose and does it need to be reconnected? If so, how? Or is it just some worthless control put in by Apple to show its been messed with when brought back for repair? Thanks

    alligator69 - Réponse

    • À l'aide de vos doigts, retirez le câble de synchronisation verticale de sa prise sur la carte de rétro-éclairage, près du coin supérieur gauche de l'iMac.

      • Lorsque vous tirez sur le connecteur pour le sortir de la prise, veillez à ce que le mouvement soit bien parallèle à la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    This cable is very small and fiddley to remove if you don't have much in the way of finger nails. The cables are very thin and fragile.

    James York - Réponse

    It took me a bit of work to remove this cable, it was a hassle actually. What worked for me, without any tools, was to use your index and middle fingers' nails and pull it. That worked better than the index and thumb. Took me like 15 minutes, more than what it should take.

    thefinalzeta - Réponse

    Yes, me too! It stuck terribly hard and I spent most of the time for the repair for this s**** little connector. I thought all the time, I'm gonna break it or tear off these tiny cables... All the other cables were *rather* easy-going. In the end I finally got a new SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB SSD working.

    And thanks to the SDD Fan Control app it is sooo silent. Thanks to Exirion!

    Nick van Hill -

    When the cable comes out, make note of which side has the gold contacts visible. On my cable, you could only see them from the "top" side (aka, as you look down on it). From the "bottom" or back side of the cable, you could NOT see any gold contacts. This will help to orient the cable when reconnecting it.

    markcerv - Réponse

    In my case, all the cable connectors were oriented having the golden contacts, as seen from the wide side of the connectors, oriented facing away from the board

    Georg P - Réponse

    From this point onwards I found very useful a flashlight to illuminate inside the iMac.

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    Take care not to pull off the socket off along with the connector as happened to me.

    Fortunately there are used pull on eBay. Even saw one that had the same socket ripped off also.

    Joel Yang - Réponse

    FYI; Cable in 27 EMC 2390 I just worked on looked different. Was simple flat connecter with nothing other than blue coloring on end. Just flat gold connectors on bottom side. These kinds are very tricky to extract and even trickier to reinsert as there is too much flex and not enough slack/room for finger/tool to get back in.

    My solution is unconventional but works. I do not remove the cables (!). I work on the floor, lying on my belly. I open slowly and carefully only as far as the cables inside will allow. Use a flashlight so you can really see clearly. Then I prop up the both sides of the display using anything the right size (box, a pair of boots…) It is crucial of course that you have things propped up securely so screen can stay a few inches up without hands! I use a very short #10 Torx so I can remove the old HD. There is barely enough room to work but it is do-able with care (and light!). As I am usually putting in an SSD these days, I simply use electrical tape to secure it. Close slowly. Test

    Jed Wevaer - Réponse

    • Exercez une pression sur les deux bras du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le libérer de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran hors de la prise sur la carte mère.

    This connection is very fragile, and many people have broken the display connector on the logic board. You need to carefully pull the connector out, and when putting it back together, you need to carefully push the connector back in.

    pmah - Réponse

    i did break mine. do you know where to buy that component?

    Cris - Réponse

    In my iMac the cable was stuck to the structure of the computer with a piece of foam tape. Pulling it very gently, gradually it detached with no damages.

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    I pulled a bit too hard and metal cover over the module attached to the logic board came off from one side exposing metal teeth. To my surprise I managed to put it back. Even bigger surprise Mac works just fine!

    Wojtek - Réponse

    • Faites pivoter l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur, suffisamment pour débrancher le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    You need to squeeze the connector top to unlatch, then pull it parallel to the LED backlight board.

    Charlie - Réponse

    Here I used the flat end of a spudger to unlatch the connector top.

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    • Soulevez l'écran afin de libérer un espace suffisant pour débrancher le câble du capteur thermique LCD de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Si votre ventilateur tourne trop vite après la réparation, vérifiez si le capteur thermique est bien connecté.

    Before you take/remove the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket, make a note of which color cable is on the left, and which is on the right. When I removed the cable, the black cable was leftmost, and the grey cable was rightmost.

    markcerv - Réponse

    I replaced hard drive and added a second SSD on a 2010 27" iMac. Everything seemed fine for about a year, and now the fans run continuously. I think it's this cable in Step 8; I'll get around to opening it up to check.

    pigeonf16 - Réponse

    • Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier extérieur.

    And if the panel has no frame? How you unattach the frame from the old panel to place it on the new one?

    Daria Drozd - Réponse

    • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    Is it possible to use the DVD drive after installing the SSD, or is there no space left?

    Joel - Réponse

    • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

    This step is not necessary. I have problems with the pulling out, and found that it's not necessary to out it in this case.

    Steve - Réponse

    Agreed. Leave it plugged in and peel the buffer tape and temp sensor off the optical drive assembly while it's still in the computer.

    John Lavenia -

    What problems did you have?

    Toni Marmol - Réponse

    Don't do that! It's not necessary to pull the sensor cable out. And it cost me an hour to find out that it was this sensor cable and not the LCD sensor cable that made the fans spin at 3000+rpm. The less sensor cables you remove, the easier to find the culprit if you stumble into fan issues.

    bhager - Réponse

    • Insérez un spudger entre le connecteur du lecteur optique et le lecteur optique.

    • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer doucement le connecteur du lecteur optique de ce dernier, puis débranchez le connecteur du lecteur en vous servant de vos doigts.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin - Réponse

    Can the superdrive connector cable (possibly just SATA and SATA power bundled) be used for SSD? I wanted to replace the superdrive completely with an SSD, and thus having in total 2 SSDs and one HDD inside the iMac. Thanks in advance.

    Krisna - Réponse

    There is another SATA connector on the back side of the logic board for an SSD.

    Neal Sofge - Réponse

    • Soulevez légèrement le côté gauche du lecteur optique et dégagez-le du côté droit du boîtier arrière.

    • Lors du rassemblement, faites attention aux deux trous dans la plaque frontale du lecteur optique. Il faut que deux petits et courts dispositifs en plastique s'enclenchent correctement dedans.

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    • Déplacez avec précaution le câble-ruban de la carte E/S de manière à accéder au connecteur du ventilateur du lecteur masqué par ce dernier.

    • Déconnectez le ventilateur du lecteur optique en débranchant son connecteur de la prise sur la carte mère.

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    • Retirez la vis Torx T10 par laquelle le ventilateur est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    • Tirez le ventilateur du lecteur optique hors du boîtier extérieur et soulevez-le pour le libérer des trois broches en plastique disposées sur son pourtour.

    • Manipulez le ventilateur avec précaution lorsque vous le sortez de l'iMac en faisant attention aux câbles qui peuvent se trouver coincés.

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    • À l'aide de vos ongles ou de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez les trois connecteurs du côté droit de la carte logique.

      • Lecteur de carte SD

      • Carte d'E/S arrière

      • Haut-parleurs gauche et droit

    There is a small missing step here!

    Just on the bottom left part of the red box in the first picture you can find a MIC connector.

    It needs to be unplugged and replugged back.

    I suggest to add this part to the guide.

    Claudio Fantacci - Réponse

    • À l'aide de vos ongles, débranchez les six connecteurs parallèles du dessus de la carte mère, en tirant dessus parallèlement à la carte mère.

      • Température de surface

      • Température du disque dur

      • Ventilateur du disque dur

      • Caméra

      • Bluetooth

      • Capteur de température ambiante

    • Débranchez le câble AirPort de la carte mère en faisant pression à l'aide d'un spudger.

    One of the 5 pin connectors’ plastic disintegrated during disassembly and now all the pins are loose. Is there a replacement connector I can get?

    John Rieffel - Réponse

    • En procédant comme décrit plus haut, utilisez vos ongles pour enlever les deux connecteurs de câble du côté gauche de la carte mère.

      • Bouton de marche

      • Ventilateur du CPU

    Everything going fine until I tried to remove the power button connector to the board. The connector on the wire came apart. What do I do now? Anyone sell these connectors? Can I just solder it? Wires are same colour. Not sure which is which.

    Morgan Tamplin - Réponse

    • En procédant comme décrit plus haut, débranchez le câble de la carte du capteur infrarouge de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Avec précaution, tirez la carte du capteur infrarouge vers le haut, en la tenant droit, et sortez-la de l'iMac.

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    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 suivantes par lesquelles la carte mère est fixée à l'iMac :

      • Quatre vis 25 mm.

      • Deux vis 21,4 mm.

      • Une vis de 7,2 mm.

      • Une vis de 9,3 mm.

      • Lorsque vous remontez l'iMac, veillez à ce qu'aucun des câbles ne soit coincé sous la carte mère avant de replacer les vis.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le câble d'alimentation SATA de sa prise sur le disque dur.

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    • Soulevez la carte mère hors de l'iMac, tout en la faisant pivoter.

      • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement la carte mère. Elle est encore reliée au côté arrière par plusieurs câbles.

    • Avec précaution, inclinez la carte mère vers l'avant de l'iMac de telle sorte qu'elle penche vers l'extérieur de la machine.

    Actually, if you have gone that far, there are only approx. 2 cables left on the other side of the board (As I recall the power connector and some data cable), so that if you want to access the CPU, it is then a small step removing the whole board.

    Georg P - Réponse

    When reinstalling the board, look through the access door to check that the RAM slots are properly lined up with the grooves in the case. Sometimes the board looks like it is properly installed from the front, but if you look from below you can see that it is misaligned,.

    Robert Lazarus - Réponse

    • Branchez le raccord mâle du répartiteur d'alimentation SATA sur le câble d'alimentation du disque dur d'origine.

    • Raccordez l'un des câbles de dérivation au disque dur.

      • Le câble est conçu de façon à ne pouvoir être raccordé que s'il est orienté correctement. N'essayez pas de forcer pour le brancher sur le disque dur.

    • Faites passer l'autre câble de dérivation du répartiteur d'alimentation SATA au-dessous du dissipateur thermique du processeur graphique (GPU).

    • Il existe un petit décrochement dans le plastique tout près du châssis du lecteur optique. Faites passer le câble à travers ce décrochement.

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    • Penchez la carte mère vers l'avant suffisamment pour pouvoir accéder à l'arrière.

    • Raccordez l'extrémité droite du câble de données SATA à la prise de données SATA secondaire sur la carte logique.

    In the kit i ordered, there was a SATA Cable with an angulated and an straight end. I would suggest to insert the angulated end in the board connector

    Georg P - Réponse

    I agree the kit came with 2 straight ended SATA. Not Helpful.

    JONPAUL - Réponse

    • Start leaning the logic board back into the iMac.

    • Route the SATA data cable underneath the edge of the metal plate behind the logic board.

    • Continue routing the SATA cable up through the cable slot in the plastic frame.

    • Finish routing the SATA cable though the cutaway in the plastic frame near the optical drive, just below the GPU heat sink.

    • The SATA data cable should be laid over the SATA power cable that is already routed through this cutaway.

    I succeeded with this guide and an upgrade kit from ifixit, however the sata cable was VERY VERY short and almost too short (way shorter then in the guide's pictures). a couple of extra centimeters would have made the process much easier.

    besides that, thanks for the detailed guide. took me about 2 hours until the mac was booting from the ssd successfully.

    michaelf - Réponse

    After haveing completed the installation of the dual Hard Drive, I have to say that routing the SATA cable was the most difficult part of the whole procedure. The SATA cable is quite short, there is little space in the cable slot, which makes the power cable already there to leave its position. The Airport Cable is always in the way. Finally, I had to cut a piece in the cutaway in the plastic frame near the optical drive, just below the GPU heat sink, so that the SATA Cable fits. Perhaps a slightly longer cable would be more helpful.

    Georg P - Réponse

    SATA cable is very short, 3-5 cm more will be enough.

    bieniekmichal - Réponse

    I had the kit as well and also had a spare sata data cable that terminating with a L connector and was about 2” longer. Made routing the cable substantially easier.

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    • Connect the SATA power and data cables to the secondary hard drive.

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    • After removing the backing from the adhesive pads, press the secondary hard drive firmly against the aluminum frame of the iMac.

    Better placement: between original HDD and optical drive, below GPU heat pipes. this will leave the air flow from the ODD fan to the GPU heat sink intact. WIll only work with 1.8" SSD's.

    30cm SATA cable will do.

    jes ta - Réponse

    I agree, I put the ssd where ifixit suggested but owc suggested under the graphics heatsink'so pipes. I think my ssd is now blocking airflow, we'll see how long it lasts and I hope my sata cable doesn't melt!

    Jeff 3F - Réponse

    Just replaced the ODD as suggested by iFixit.

    I suggest to follow this guide because, in my honest opinion, the air flow is not blocked by the SSD (which is by far thinner than the ODD). Moreover the space below the GPU heat pipes is very tight and it requires some more tweaks to properly set the SSD with the sticky tapes.

    Claudio Fantacci - Réponse

    I am also going to add a SSD under the superdrive. A data cable has been plugged in the secondary onboard SAT A (27" mid2010) since I had to remove the mainboard and everything else to remove the dust from my iMac and check the PSU and backlight (noisy backlight) due to a non working iMac (no diag led switched on on the mainboard.).

    I have ordered a PSU but finally found out that mine was working and it was mainly due to a bad grounding of the PSU... No more backlight noise since then...

    Anyway, thank you for your tutorials. The 27" iMac mid 2010 is quite simple to take part (more than a standard laptop).

    cyrilgregoire - Réponse


Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse, en commençant à l'étape 20.

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Brett Hartt

Membre depuis le 12/04/2010

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138 tutoriels rédigés


iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit


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18 commentaires

Adding a SSD drive for the system was a simple process and has completely transformed my old i3 iMac - definitely worth the money and effort

adrianpearmund - Réponse

5 hours an IT support officer. This task is not for the feint hearted. A guide from OWC suggested locating SSD near HDD and this proved easier for me. This guide was accurate and the many images were very helpful. Thanks.

KrazeyNKrusty - Réponse

<i>Apple never sold the 2010 27" iMac with the option of having a second hard drive,</i>

This isn't true. Mine has a 256GB Apple-installed second drive.

seligerj - Réponse

Great guide. I followed it but found after removing the logic board there was no secondary sata port!!! Either way I hooked up the original hard drive to power and temp sensor to stop the fan spin up and used the sata for the SSD so works great. One problem! My sound is now greyed out? Any physical reason for this? When the imac powers on it makes a sound but no sounds in Mac OS. I feel it must be physical not software related.

Damian Wright - Réponse

I had a 15cm SATA cable, which is too short to reach an SSD under the Optical Drive. I ended up putting the SSD right on top of the hard drive (then 15cm is just enough).

oluc - Réponse

Great guide. I installed an SSD behind the optical drive, plugged it into the primary SATA port and used a different cable to plug the 3.5" HDD to the secondary SATA port. Now for some reason my iMac can see the SSD but the HDD is invisible, as if it wasn't connected. I checked all cabling and it is most definitely connected to the motherboard. Any suggestions?

bkfwas - Réponse

Check to make sure your iMac has the ports on the motherboard for this expansion. Not every iMac has them. For additional consideration, large solid-state capacity hard drives are available now; it's easier to simply replace your existing hard drive with a terabyte solid-state.

Oh and, make every possible effort to avoid fingerprints on the inside of your glass or the front of the LCD.

Kevin McCartney - Réponse

I am an 80 year old Mac addict and found this guide exceptional and easy to follow adding an SSD to make a Fusion Drive was capable. .

pboivin - Réponse

Great guide and comments. I installed an SSD on top of the HDD. There is enough space on the lower left corner to tape an SSD. I just lined it up to the plastic partition. Everything has been running great.

Hoo00 - Réponse

I removed the OLD ODD/DVD Drive and put an Laptop HDD 1gb from an old MacBook that met with a tragic death. It jumped off our 4th floor balcony. The HDD survived, but not any other part. But that 750GB Laptop Drive was put in the place of the ODD with a ODD to HDD conversion part. (I figured that the last time I had put a disk in the ODD had been over a year ago) the other 2 SATA ports were occupied by 2 SSD’s each 240GB So I Could have VM’s on one HDD and segmented from the primary OS and the Media (documents, Pictures, videos on the HDD) The first time I booted it I though for sure I had some failure. Rather than the normal crawl across the screen of the progress bar it zipped across in under 3 seconds. One of the best upgrades I could ever do. (besides replacing fans that are starting to be loud (their warning they are starting to fail)

Wizbang FL - Réponse

If I do it like this and leave the old hard drive in even if my old hard drive is on the verge of death, will my iMac still rely on the new SSD and work fine?

Jacob Robinson - Réponse

>Jacob Robinson, I am about to attempt this upgrade and this is what i found out.. You will need to use software such as Carbon Copy Cloner to copy your entire HDD (including Operating System) onto the new SSD. Then (using Disk Utility) set the new SSD as your boot drive. You can use your old HDD as storage for non essential data. Always make sure you back up. Make sure you switch on TRIM for the new SSD before cloning. Google is your friend. :)

Alun Harrison - Réponse

@jacob_robinson I’m about to attempt this upgrade myself. What I have learnt online so far; Once installed, format the SSD using Disk Utility. Switch on TRIM for your new SSD to ensure data is written to it correctly. Use software such as Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your entire old HDD (including operating system) to the new SSD. Use Disk utility to make the new SSD your boot drive. Now you can use the old HDD for non essential files. Make sure you back up first and (if you don’t also replace the HDD while you have the case open) back up regularly to prevent data loss. Good luck!

Alun Harrison - Réponse

Does this guide apply to 2010 27" iMac only? I have a late 2009 iMac (iMac11,1) and wonder if I can add a new SSD without removing the HDD or the optical drive . Thanks!

Vincent - Réponse

You’ll need to swap out your optical drive for a special carrier to hold the 2.5” SSD Installazione dell'SSD Dual Drive nell'iMac Intel EMC 2309 ed EMC 2374 da 27". Unlike this model which has three SATA connections, yours only has two SATA connections.

Dan -

Great guide, just completed adding an 1T SSD. I have taken the opportunity to clean both heatsinks (oh boy were they filthy) and clean install macOS High Sierra. Btw this tip ( show how to unmount the old drive volume at boot. Now I have a quiet and fast PC (quite an experience). Too bad macOS Mojave will not support this trusty old friend…

EBis - Réponse

After having reassembled everything, at power on, the fans were running at maximum speed.

To return to a normal situation, it was necessary to reset the SMC.

To do this, disconnect the power cable for 15 seconds.

Reconnect the power cable, wait 5 seconds and press the start button. The Mac restarts normally.

Eric PETIT - Réponse

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, starting from Step 20 should read

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, starting from Step 23? Fortunately, this is where the link takes you.

Geoff Jankowski - Réponse

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