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MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement

Andrew Bookholt

Andrew Bookholt et 12 autres contributeurs

Dernière mise à jour le June 10, 2024

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Ce tutoriel est uniquement destiné à être utilisé comme prérequis d'autres tutoriels. Il ne se suffit pas à lui-même.

Introduction

Passez à l'étape 1

Internal Prerequisite.

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Outils

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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: étape 1, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: étape 1, image 2 de 2

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Traduire

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 2, image 1 de 1

    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • The camera cable slides out from its logic board connector. If your cable feels fragile, use a spudger to walk the cable out from the metal tabs on each side of the connector head.

    Traduire

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 3, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 3, image 2 de 2

    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

    Traduire

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 3 de 3

    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • The cable may be difficult to insert. If you are having trouble, temporarily attach a piece of tape to the cable to help you guide the cable into the socket.

    Traduire

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 1

    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

    Traduire

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 6, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 6, image 3 de 3

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Traduire

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 1

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    Traduire

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 3 de 3

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Traduire

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1

    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

    Traduire

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 10, image 2 de 2

    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

    Traduire

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 11, image 1 de 1

    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    Traduire

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 1

    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    Traduire
Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Une autre personne a terminé cette réparation.

Un commentaire

If I have a MacBook Pro 13’’ A1278 Mid 2012 with i5 2.5GHz logic board, am I able to put a 2.3 GHz i5 A1278 early 2011 macbook pro logic board onto the Mid 2012 macbook pro?

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