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Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le pavé tactile.

  1. Avant de commencer, éteignez votre MacBook. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface souple.
    • Avant de commencer, éteignez votre MacBook. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface souple.

    • Utilisez un tournevis P5 Pentalobe pour retirer les dix vis qui fixent le boîtier inférieur, dont les dimensions sont les suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 9 mm

    • Huit vis de 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Réponse

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Réponse

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Réponse

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Réponse

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Réponse

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Réponse

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Réponse

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Réponse

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Réponse

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Réponse

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Réponse

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Réponse

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Réponse

  2. Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.
    • Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.

    • Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Réponse

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Réponse

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Réponse

  3. Saisissez la petite languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie, et tirez-la vers l'avant du MacBook Air pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère.
    • Saisissez la petite languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie, et tirez-la vers l'avant du MacBook Air pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère.

    • Ne tirez pas le connecteur vers le haut en le déconnectant.

    @&?! - pulled plastic tab on new battery to line up with logic board pins look to be coming out of male connector? Argh?!

    James Bowkett - Réponse

    Can expect anyone from ifixit to get back to me?

    James Bowkett - Réponse

    Hi James,

    It may be that one of the pins did not lock in properly into the plastic housing. You can try pushing the corresponding wire into the connector housing to try to lock the pin in.

    If that does not help, please respond to my email. Thanks!

    Arthur Shi -

    When I pulled the plastic tab, it separated from the battery connector. However, I was able to remove the batter connector using a scalpel to separate the batter connector and disconnect the battery from the logic board without any damage.

    Annabell - Réponse

    Well, I was trying to detach the battery cable from the logic board and the housing on the logic board that the cable slides into popped off with it. Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I out one logic board? :-(

    Dale Roe - Réponse

    The original battery plastic pull tab broke off when I tried to pull it towards the front of the Mac. How do I get to disconnect the battery connector now?

    shukry.saw08 - Réponse

    My connector would not release as shown, using reasonable force, so I unbolted the battery to slide it back, then was able to slide the connector back. Ultimately, it popped up on its own - suggest review of this process. No drama, nothing broken, all good.

    Marc Bracken - Réponse

    > und ziehe sie in Richtung des vorderen Rands des Air, um … <

    besser ausgedrückt: ziehe sie waagerecht nach hinten aus dem Stecker ….

    > and drag it towards the front edge of the Air to ... <

    better said: pull it horizontally backwards out of the plug….

    Blatt - Réponse

  4. Dévissez les cinq vis suivantes, fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
    • Dévissez les cinq vis suivantes, fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :

    • Trois vis Torx T5 de 6,3 mm

    • Deux vis Torx T5 de 2,4 mm

    When going in reverse, it's easier to do step 3 before 4.

    John Heffernan - Réponse

    Screw normal torx T-5

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    I can confirm. When doing the steps in reverse, it is definitely better to do step 3 before step 4! It’s a lot easier.

    Krangh - Réponse

  5. En manipulant la batterie, évitez de presser ou de toucher les 4 cellules lithium-polymère apparentes.
    • En manipulant la batterie, évitez de presser ou de toucher les 4 cellules lithium-polymère apparentes.

    • Soulevez la batterie par les bords du côté de la carte mère et retirez-la ensuite du boîtier.

    • Si vous installez une nouvelle batterie, vous devriez la calibrer :

    • Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement. Lors de l'avertissement de batterie faible, enregistrez votre travail et laisser votre ordinateur allumé jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    • Si vous remarquez un comportement inhabituel ou des problèmes après l'installation de votre nouvelle batterie, vous devrez peut-être réinitialiser le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre MacBook.

    Two Questions and a Comment:

    1) “Allow the battery to drain overnight” - Should the computer shut down automatically (during the first drain, as well)? If not, what percentage should the battery reach before charging it to 100%?

    2) While the battery is draining, can I use the computer?

    When installing the new battery, I found it much easier to insert the battery connector before screwing in the battery.

    Paul Larkin - Réponse

    When reinserting the battery, plug in the battery connector before screwing the battery into place. Some wiggle room is required to reconnect the batter and tweezers will help with the plugging in.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    Check to ensure that all 5 holes in the battery enclosure are drilled through. One of mine wasn’t and needed a little push through before setting the battery in place.

    Also, as noted above, definitely re-connect the cable before screwing in the battery!

    Les Klassen Hamm - Réponse

    agree on reconnecting before securing battery.

    David Covington - Réponse

    Followed this guide step by step for a successful battery swap thanks iFixit!

    FYI, as someone else pointed out, if you try removing the battery connector after you have installed it for one reason or another the pins pull out of the plastic connector piece (the adhesive does not hold). You have to push the cable back into the plastic connector so the pins are all the way back in.

    Kent O - Réponse

    I did all of that BUT while I tried to pull the plastic battery connector in step 3 , instead the whole connector got out of the board and I can’t insterted back, I don’t know what to do now, any advice ?

    Gorashi - Réponse

    Kommentare 1 und 2: sehr wichtig. Danke Paul Larkin und Andre Clement!

    Comments 1 and 2: very important. Thank you Paul Larkin and Andre Clement!

    Blatt - Réponse

    Really useful and simple instructions, done in 10 minutes. Many thanks! H

    Hugh Blackman - Réponse

  6. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourenr le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du pavé tactile. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise même. Tirez la nappe du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise, vers le bord arrière de l'Air.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourenr le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du pavé tactile.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise même.

    • Tirez la nappe du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise, vers le bord arrière de l'Air.

  7. Tout en soulevant soigneusement la nappe du clavier d'une main, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourner le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise même.
    • Tout en soulevant soigneusement la nappe du clavier d'une main, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourner le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise même.

    • Tirez la nappe du clavier tout droit hors de sa prise, vers le bord avant de l'Air.

    the trickiest step on re-assembly is reinserting this back-folded cable into the socket and then making sure the retaining flap (now hidden) is firmly down again. You can tell if it is still up (and so the cable loose) if the cable does not feel flat when you run your finger lightly over it.

    Jon May - Réponse

    A magnifying glass and bright light can help immensely in this step. The retaining flap is tiny and difficult to see while the cable is still connected.

    Dick Young - Réponse

    Dick, do you have a suggestion for a magnifying glass/light set up? I used a magnifying glass and a small flashlight. But found that the job required two hands so it was hard to see while I was trying to do it. I thought about ordering the magnifying glasses sold here but don’t know how well they work.

    Joanna Bridges -

    A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.

    lamajr -

    This is where I had a problem. Part of the plastic retaining flap broke off. Now my trackpad, which had a problem, is working but about half the keys on my keyboard, which was working before, aren’t. I don’t know whether its because I damaged this cable connections in the attempts to seat it earlier or whether not having the pressure on one half of it is causing the connection to not be made with a number of the keys. Since my keyboard had worked with my old trackpad and the socket clamp isn’t broken on that, I was thinking of attaching it to see if clamping the cable down properly will solve the problem. But of course then my trackpad wouldn’t work anymore. But it might tell me that I have to replace the trackpad again with one with a working clamp (retaining flap?) to make the keyboard work. And then I am back with dealing with troublesome trackpad screws. I can use an external keyboard but since I wanted to be able to use this laptop for traveling, that’s not my preference. Any thoughts???

    Joanna Bridges - Réponse

    Use a small strip of electricians tape on one end fold it over to make a pull tab, then place on the ribbon cable so you can pull the ribbon into the slot.

    Most of the time the latch clip can be refitted in if you haven’t broken it in half. The system won’t work correctly without it!

    Dan -

    Hi Dan, I did, unfortunately, break the latch clip. Only about a third of it is left- the other 2./3rds broke off completely. From what you said that is the most likely explanation why certain keys ( 3,e,d,c,6,y,h,n,space bar and /) don’t work. I had wondered if I might have damaged the cable connections when I was trying to get them into the slot earlier (not realizing there was a retaining clip down.) If it is the clip, then the answer seems to be to replace the trackpad again. Which would be no problem if the screws weren’t so bad. But am worried that I will never be able to get all the screws out and new ones screwed in properly. But maybe worth a try. Any suggestions?

    Joanna Bridges - Réponse

    Have no magic here…

    Somehow you need to replace the latch. Getting a replacement part is one way, the other is looking for a broken system to steal the latch off of carefully removing it without breaking it, then popping it on your systems connector.

    Dan -

    Dan, that’s a great idea. I have my old Apple trackpad and the piece is still intact on that. It hadn't occurred to me that I might be able to take it off and put it on the cable on the new trackpad. Thanks for the suggestion!

    Joanna Bridges - Réponse

    I do not think there is a latch to be opened.

    Jean Peuplu - Réponse

    Both the logic board and the trackpad connectors use a compression bar (latch). When you have it in the open state its ZIF but to secure the cable you need to close the latch to hold the cable and make the needed electrical connection Trackpad Flex Connector

    Dan -

    Yes there is a latch towards the back of the connector, opposite of where the cable enters the connector. It is very thin. Opens from back to front.

    Jean Peuplu - Réponse

    There are two versions of the connector depending on the trackpad and logic board. Yours should be like the one I posted.

    The other one is more like this one Keyboard Connector

    Dan -

  8. Retirez les douze vis suivantes :
    • Retirez les douze vis suivantes :

    • Six vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm fixant le pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.

    • Six vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm fixant les dispositifs de support du pavé tactile au pavé.

    I have a Macbook Air early 2013 A1466 Model. These are not PH00 screws in my case— like not even close. i am going by a jewelry store. Maybe, it is the case for the US version. Not working for this German model. Just FYI. Or perhaps you know as you are leaving the ph00 out of the description here and are just referencing the 1,6 mm.

    Ronny NoneOfYourBusinessGoogle - Réponse

    Actually I went and got a phillips ph00 1,6 now specifically: screws up the screws. Doesnt work as many are saying on youtube. But whats the right screwdriver then??

    Ronny NoneOfYourBusinessGoogle - Réponse

    So how did you do it after all?

    Vrag Naroda -

    Same problem, can't find a tiny enough screwdriver

    Vrag Naroda - Réponse

    A Phillips triple zero PH000 is the bit that worked for me for my Early 2014 MacBook Air trackpad brackets

    bob - Réponse

    I also had problems with the screws. Started out using the PH00 screwdriver and the screwheads were being stripped. Switched to the PH 000 as suggested by the commenter above and it still stripped screws (ones that hadn’t been touched before). Finally gave up, put the screws I had managed to get out back in (surprisingly they screwed back in without much difficulty), and put everything back together without being able to replace the trackpad. Luckily the computer worked but still having to use an external mouse to click. It seems that the screws for the trackpad are very soft and the heads strip easily. Not sure what to do at this point.

    Joanna Bridges - Réponse

    Apple uses a thread sealer which makes it hard! I first try a little bit of some acetone around the base of the screw dripping a little down letting spork and adding a bit more as it evaporates. When that fails I reach for my small nozzle heat gun as I want to focus the heat just to the head of the screw using foil to protect the rest of the area.

    Dan -

    I had an easy time with the JIS000 screwdriver bit I have so if you have one, give it a try.

    Lareina The Math Mama - Réponse

    What is a JIS000 screwdriver and where do I find one?

    Joanna Bridges -

    JIS is japan Industrial Standard which sets a standard for both screws and the tools needed for them.

    Here’s one set iFixit - JIS Driver Set

    Dan -

    screw JM-CRV J000

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    The brackets on mind had stripped screws a d are now broken. Anyone know where I can buy those brackets?

    Trenten Stanley - Réponse

  9. Retirez du boîtier supérieur les dispositifs de support droit et gauche du pavé tactile.
    • Retirez du boîtier supérieur les dispositifs de support droit et gauche du pavé tactile.

    on re-assembly, having the front open slightly so that I could put some pressure on the other side of the trackpad behind the holes for the screws made it easier to reseat them

    Jon May - Réponse

    During reassembly keep in mind the bottom half of the trackpad is the half with motion. This top edge is to be secured tightly to the top brackets. Previous tip was helpful regarding rear pressure during reassembly.

    airshack - Réponse

  10. Retirez la vis T5 Torx de 1,4 mm de son trou près du bord avant du boîtier supérieur.
    • Retirez la vis T5 Torx de 1,4 mm de son trou près du bord avant du boîtier supérieur.

    • Lors du remontage, ne serrez pas trop la vis de réglage, car le bouton finit par arrêter de cliquer. Ajustez la vis de réglage jusqu'à ce que le côté de clic du pavé tactile ait un jeu minimal.

    Help I stripped it can't get the screw out

    Daniel West - Réponse

    And it didn't go in easy either

    Daniel West - Réponse

  11. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire soigneusement levier sur le bord du pavé tactile le plus proche du clavier et l'enlever de son emplacement dans le boîtier supérieur, en l'écartant des dispositifs de support fixés au boîtier supérieur. Retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier supérieur.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire soigneusement levier sur le bord du pavé tactile le plus proche du clavier et l'enlever de son emplacement dans le boîtier supérieur, en l'écartant des dispositifs de support fixés au boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier supérieur.

    if you open the front case slightly at this point a little pressure on the trackpad helps to lift it - but just a millimetre or two.

    Jon May - Réponse

    I suggest leaving the brackets attached to the trackpad until after removing the trackpad from its recess, and then attaching the brackets to the new trackpad before replacing it in the recess. Otherwise, the loose trackpad will drop onto the screen.

    Dick Young - Réponse

    As usual, the instruction video was absolutely great. No trouble at all (well, except I lost one of the pentapoint screws, but not your fault). Could not have been better!

    jerrymack - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

29 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Great write up. Where can I find the keyboard ribbon cable? (the wide one that doesn't make any 90s. I tore mine with metal tweezers. Can't find the wide cable anywhere.

ahaffke - Réponse

shhhhh, it's called ie bAe eYe

emaginechild -

even a 65 year old can do it! (with magnifying glasses) Thank! Fixed the dirty, sticking trackpad!

Scott Salling - Réponse

Step 10 should not be done! This is a pure adjustment screw for the clickpoint. Only readjust there, in case clicking does not feel okay after a change of the trackpad. Usually no adjusment is necessary. The trackpad comes out easily after Step 8

Schritt 10 ist falsch! Diese Schraube dient lediglich der Justage des Druckpunkts des Klicks. Sie muss nur verstellt werden, falls der Klick nach dem Wechsel des Trackpads nicht mehr ok ist. Das Trackpad lässt sich aber bereits nach Schritt 8 problemlos entnehmen.

Marc Malkwitz - Réponse

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