It's possible you have oily debris trapped in the drain filter. To access the drain filter, remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom.) Directly below the tub is a whitish-nylon round access hatch. Surround the floor with plenty of old towels to soak up the water, then open the hatch and clean it out.

With the generic description of "electrical" problem, I'd suggest first reseating the cables. (1) Unplug the washer first. (2) Open the top panel (unscrew three Torx T-20 screws along the back of the panel, or use a 9/32" socket wrench or driver) then slide the panel about half an inch towards the rear of the washer. (3) There is a grey box hanging from the top rear frame bar. It is the machine's computer, and has several ribbon cables and other connectors plugged into it. Starting with the connector at one end, disconnect it, examine the connector and wires for any possible damage, then reconnect it, being sure that any hold-in clips snap back into place. Sometimes the act of reseating a connector can break up old oxidation that prevents current from flowing. If that doesn't help, try visually checking the CPU board for damage or blown parts. It's located inside the grey box. You're most of the way there already, but instructions for accessing it are the first five steps of this guide: Réparer les relais...

The iFixit guide I'm working on explains how to clean or replace the door lock relay, which is the cause of some of the F-DL errors. Réparer les relais de la carte électronique d'une machine à laver Kenmore Elite HE3 Could I ask you a favor? Before you follow the whole guide and replace the relay, could you please try something? Remove the top panel of the washing machine, and tap the grey control box (hanging in the back) with a screwdriver, then see if the F-DL error goes away. This is something we did as a temporary measure while the problem was getting progressively more frequent. I'd like to know if tapping it works, as that might be a good diagnostic check someone could do before going the whole 9 yards to unsolder the relay. Thanks in advance, John

@Elias, I used a heavy duty razor blade utility knife slipped under the end by the switch, and twisted gently to not damage the finish along the edge. Patience to wait while the glue stretches and releases is key. The same knife along one side of the case was enough to open that as well.

Unfortunately in my washing machine induced case, the corrosion in the battery charging circuit appears to be fatal.