Finding another brand chassis that would fit seems almost impossible. I suggest getting the same model from scrap, and swap the parts.

Your hard drive may be in the midst of failing. To verify this you have to look at the drive with another operating system and run a diagnostic test, especially looking for the S.M.A.R.T. data stored on the drive. Two ways to do this: One, Boot your laptop from a bootable diagnostic CD such as HIREN or The Ultimate Boot CD. Once booted, each has several HDD diag utilities. Two, and my preferred approach, is to remove the drive from the laptop and attach it to another machine where you can run Windows-based diags, such as HD Tune. Most important here...do you have a backup of your data?

Are any keys stuck? If not, a restart might fix it. If not, you can, at least temporarily, attach a USB keyboard to use the machine until you replace the cat-damaged keyboard.

Did you drop it? This symptom may also indicate a virus, the deaded "FBI" virus, which may also claim to be from DHS, Justice Department, or whatever. Occasionally this malware breaks and doesn't work properly, leaving the user with a white screen. Try restarting in safe mode command prompt. (Hit F8 as the BIOS screen flashes past and select that option) If it starts up normally in that safe mode, then you have a virus. If the screen is still white you probably have a broken LCD.

Try starting it up with the battery removed, and the charger attached. It might start. If not, if it does even less than before, then it points to the possibility of a dead charger. If it does the same thing then try holding the power button for about 20 seconds. You can try re-seating the memory modules as the contacts get dirty. If none of this works it points to a failed motherboard or CPU.

Possibly some sediment clogging up a filter. Try turning off the cold water where it's hooked up to the washer, and remove the hose. Have a bucket handy... There may be screens on the hose ends and one of them is likely filled with sand, iron, or whatever. There might also be a screen on the washer inlet, so look there, too. When you reattach, first connect the hose to the water faucet and crank the valve open to see if it flows like a hose should, into the bucket. If not...you might need a plumber. If the screens are clean, water flows fine from the hose, then there's possibly a stuck or clogged solenoid in the washer.

I'm curious...did the sound work for a long time prior to this? What happened just before the sound quit working? Bad speakers can (and do) blow audio output circuits. More likely, headphone jacks become intermittent due to the connector getting banged around with headphones or external speakers attached. They break. Replacing the jack can be (relatively) easy if the jack is on a small daughter-board...you can buy those and swap them out. But.....if the jack is mounted directly to the motherboard then you have to pull the entire thing apart, pull the motherboard out (paying attention to static) then unsolder the old one and solder in a new one. I do this kind of stuff for a living, and frankly I don't like doing it because of the risk something else goes wrong. If you're not experienced with de-soldering (that's the hard part) I wouldn't recommend attempting it on an otherwise-working laptop. An alternative I normally offer is an external USB audio device. They're cheap and dead-simple to install, assuming...

These units have two parts: the HDD, which is nothing more than a regular HDD with a SATA connector. The second part is a simple SATA-to-USB converter. And there's a cable, too. Any of the parts can fail. First, try another USB port, then another cable if you have any reason to think it got damaged. Try another computer if you can. Beyond that...the device's internal USB converter can fail, and they do, but most often the drive itself is bad. They get dropped, kicked and abused, and the cushioning is bare-minimum. The only way to troubleshoot this thing is to tear it apart and separate the pieces. But first, call Western Digital support. In my experience they'll honor a warranty if a professional shop takes it apart, and you call them first. Once it's apart, it's a simple matter to test the drive by attaching it directly to a SATA port or a known-good USB converter. -John

Kenneth...be sure to use some new heatsink grease between the CPU and the heatsink. The gray stuff on that laptop is likely old and crunchy. Scrape it all away with a plastic tool and clean with alcohol first....both the heatsink and CPU. The other reasons for random shutdowns on that model....bad batteries in combination with a wonky power connector or charger cord. Also re-seat the memory modules. The D620 is a workhorse. It's got a magnesium frame, WAY more solid than the junk you see in retail models today. You can find CPU upgrades on ebay for under $20, I think the D620 handles 4GB of RAM, and swap out the spinner for an SSD.....like a new system, almost. ;-)

BE CAREFUL if you try the glue... :-) Use as little as possible. I've used dentists tools and a strong magnifying glass to get these stubs out of headphone jacks. Hopefully you have some little remnant you can grab onto.