Ed Rutmayer

The problem is that most of the drivers are too pointy, and the screws arw nowhere near as deep. If you take some fine sand paper and sand or file the tip flat so that when you look at the end of the bit under a light you’ll see a “Y” shape that’s rather thick or “bold”, instead of a sharp point, or a very thin “Y” shape that’s not well defined. Remember though, don’t keep trying bits that don’t grab right away. every attempt that fails to turn it will take a little more metal from the screw. UPDATE: after finally finding a proper Y000 driver at a local electronics store I was able to complete a repair on an Apple Watch series 3. While I did have some success filing down a cheap tri-wing driver until it fit the screws, there was one screw that it wouldn't loosen. The bottom line is this: (1) Get a proper Y000 driver, don't use Y00 as someone suggested. Don't use hot glue. Rubber bands do sometimes work but they won't in this case because the screw is too small and the driver will poke right through the...

(3D) Games are much more demanding than most other software. The pc needs to work hard, doing a bazillion calculations a second, in order to provide, in (perceived) real time, a realistic and interactive virtual environment. The random colored screen you are experiencing is likely caused by your game software trying to get the PC to do more than it was designed to do. Sometimes this causes a loop somewhere and that can be heard as audio buzzing or maybe the last quarter-second of audio endlessly repeating while the machine is completely unresponsive. There are some things you can do besides purchasing upgrades (but upgrades are nice): If you have already gone to the PC brand’s website and updated all your drivers then check the minimum requirements on the game box, or find a web site that lists those minimums. It sounds like you need to go into the game options and lower or disable some settings. Typically you will trade graphics quality for performance so: *turn off volumetric lighting, *reduce lighting...

Just curious as to what you mean by “tried thermal paste”. Could you describe the steps you followed and what it looked like (was there extra paste squished out from underneath the heat sink?) Is there a heat sink on it? When was the last time that it worked perfectly? Did it get jarred or something spilled on it, maybe a power surge? When you look at the main board closely do you see anything that looks like it doesn’t belong? Blown capacitors, black or scorched areas, areas with dust blockages, etc. Does it power down instantly or does it initiate a proper power-down sequence. Are there any noises right before it turns off? (bzzzz, whirrr, bonk, tink, pop) I know it seems unprofessional to describe things like that but it actually can help alot.

AppData is typically hidden from the average user to prevent them from deleting important system files. So, while you may not see it in the file manager, if you open a command prompt and type cd \users/XXXX/AppData/local/temp” you should then in be that directory (if it exists). replace XXXX with your user name, of course. Now you can type “dir” to see the files and sub-directories in that directory. If there are too many, then use “dir /p” so it pauses the listing at the end of each full screen. I suspect that viewing the contents of the dump isn’t going help you much but make sure you don’t delete or alter it in case a technician needs it later. Typically if your computer used to be a great machine but then at some point it started crashing all the time, there are some things that you could check but first: Your Optiplex may need to be opened - don’t do it if you are not trained to do so. If you’re experimenting, exploring, or otherwise learning about all of this just remember that a little bit of...

This happens with a number of different makes and models . Sometimes it shows up after an update, and then goes away after another update. Sometimes it never goes away. If you’re under warranty I would try getting it replaced. There’s no known fix for this as far as I know.

This is likely a blockage issue caused by a combination of factors. Inside the phone case, on the other side of the mic hole, next to the audio jack, there is a little tunnel (wave guide) for the sounds to get from the hole to the microphone. The “tunnel" is removable either by unscrewing or unclipping it (I don't remember) once you've got the case opened. The "tunnel" sits on a protective “grommet" held in place by an adhesive that's not a good choice considering the range of temperatures and moisture that a phone will be exposed to. The adhesive is much like what you'll find on cheap electrical tape, greasy crap that sticks to skin really well but nothing else. This protective grommet may have a permeable film spanning the center opening or it may not. I wasn’t able to determine the original condition of mine or those inside the other phones that I have repaired. Anyway the grommet (this is my terminology and not necessarily what LG calls it in their service manual) is a ring shaped sticker that...

Hi Jeff, is this supposed to work with series 3 watches. All I see is the time and a red lightning bolt which then disappears and then reappears