Ce tutoriel vous aide à installer le kit second disque dur.


Aucune pièce nécessaire.

  1. Desserrez les trois vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée en dessous de votre iMac.
    • Desserrez les trois vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée en dessous de votre iMac.

    • Ces vis captives sont intégrées à la trappe d'accès.

    • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

    • Lors du remontage, fixez la trappe d'accès sans serrer, puis alignez-la sur l'ouverture du compartiment mémoire dans le boîtier extérieur de l'iMac avant de serrer les vis à fond.

    I am going to put a very important comment here. Before you start this process listen to the fans on your iMac do any of them sound obviously loud (think about how quiet your iMac used to sound as a reference) If you notice one or more of them sounding substantially loud compared to the others consider locating a replacement fan prior starting this process. After all if you are already “in the neighborhood” it is a shame to do all this work only to have to disassemble your imac a couple weeks later because you realize the fan is failing. I speak from my own personal learning experience of having to disassembly my iMac 3 weeks later because the HDD was failing and apparently the moving the fan around was just enough to push it to start really under performing.

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    I’m not sure why it is necessary to remove the RAM. As far as I can tell, it can remain in place during this procedure.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

  2. À l'aide de vos doigts ou de la pointe d'un spudger, sortez la languette d'extraction en plastique noir de l'emplacement de la RAM.
    • À l'aide de vos doigts ou de la pointe d'un spudger, sortez la languette d'extraction en plastique noir de l'emplacement de la RAM.

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    • Tirez sur la languette en plastique noir pour éjecter le module de RAM de son emplacement.

    • Les modules RAM sont solidement installés. Il faudra tirer dessus assez fortement pour les retirer.

    • À l'aide de vos doigts, faites glisser le module de RAM hors de l'emplacement.

    • Si nécessaire, répétez l'opération pour les autres modules de RAM.

    How many 4MB cards can I install?

    nowsc - Réponse

    None. 4mb ram is too old to fit into any computer manufactured after like 1998.

    Brett Davison - Réponse


    I suggest that you learn your unit symbols before you try to appear clever:

    4mb == 4 milli bits

    4MB == 4 mega bytes

    nowsc was obviously meaning 4GB not 4MB, try not to be a dick.

    Simon - Réponse

    Take care to note which way out the RAM comes - there is a notch in each RAM and it is not centered, therefore either the notch will be on the left or to the right (depending on which way up you have your iMac). This will make it easier to replace the RAM without damaging anything.

    Mike Haines - Réponse

    If damaged the notch inside one pair of RAM slots, is it fixable ?

    Gavriil Bordyukov - Réponse

    • Collez une ventouse dans chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre.

    • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre (comme illustré dans les première et deuxième photographies).

    • Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée (comme illustré dans la troisième photographie).

    • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

    • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour porter l'écran. Si l'une d'entre elles se détache, l'écran risque de tomber.

    • L'emballage d'origine de votre iMac est un endroit sûr pour conserver votre écran. Sinon, vous pouvez aussi étaler une serviette sur une table et poser l'écran dessus.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - Réponse

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - Réponse

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - Réponse

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - Réponse

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this:

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - Réponse

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - Réponse

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    • Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.

    • Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté.

    • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour transporter le panneau en verre - Si l'une ou l'autre des ventouses venait à se détacher, le panneau pourrait tomber et se briser.

    • Après avoir déposé prudemment le panneau en verre, assurez-vous de retirer les ventouses, car la force de succion pourrait à la longue briser le verre.

    • Lors de la réinstallation, veillez à nettoyer soigneusement l'intérieur de la vitre et la face avant de l'écran LCD, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - Réponse

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - Réponse

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - Réponse

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - Réponse

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - Réponse

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - Réponse

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - Réponse

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 par lesquelles l'écran LCD est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    • Faites attention de ne pas toucher l'écran. Vos doigts peuvent laisser des traces difficiles à nettoyer.

    • Si nécessaire, repoussez les placées près du centre en haut de l'écran.

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - Réponse

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - Réponse

    • Avec précaution, posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane.

    • En raison des tolérances étroites, vous devrez utiliser un outil fin recourbé pour soulever l'écran hors du boîtier externe. Nous nous sommes servis d'un trombone plié, comme illustré dans la première photographie.

    • Dans notre Dual Hard Drive Kit, vous trouverez des pincettes adaptées à cette réparation.

    • Utilisez un outil fin recourbé pour soulever un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran hors de son cadre extérieur en acier.

    • Après avoir soulevé un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran, maintenez-le hors du cadre tout en soulevant l'autre côté à l'aide d'un outil recourbé.

    • Soulevez l'écran et maintenez-le suffisamment haut pour accéder aux câbles.

    • Lorsque vous soulevez le bord supérieur de l'écran hors du boîtier, n'allez pas trop loin, car les deux composants sont toujours reliés par plusieurs câbles-rubans courts.

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - Réponse

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble de synchronisation verticale dans le coin supérieur gauche de l'écran. À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, faites pression sur les deux pattes latérales du connecteur.

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - Réponse

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - Réponse

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - Réponse

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - Réponse

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - Réponse

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - Réponse

    • Lors de cette étape, vos mains seront très près de la face arrière de l'alimentation. Pour éviter de vous prendre de grosses décharges, ne touchez PAS la face arrière de l'alimentation.

    • Débranchez le câble du rétro-éclairage LED d'une main tout en appuyant sur le clip et en faisant glisser le connecteur vers le bas de l'écran.

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - Réponse

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures:

    fabio4 - Réponse

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - Réponse

    • Tirez la languette noire vers le haut pour soulever le loquet sur le connecteur ZIF du câble de données de l'écran.

    • Ne tirez pas trop fort, car vous risqueriez d'endommager le connecteur et la prise.

    • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran en tirant le connecteur vers le bas de l'écran à l'aide de la languette noire.

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - Réponse

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - Réponse

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - Réponse

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - Réponse

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - Réponse

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - Réponse

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - Réponse

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - Réponse

    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, débranchez le câble d'alimentation de l'écran à côté du câble de données.

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    • Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier de l'iMac.

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - Réponse

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (

    zackduchene - Réponse

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job.

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - Réponse

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - Réponse

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le câble de données du lecteur optique.

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    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise.

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    • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier de l'iMac.

    • La vis positionnée en bas à gauche a une tête légèrement plus grosse que les autres.

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    • Soulevez légèrement le bord gauche du lecteur optique, puis tirez-le sur le côté pour libérer les broches de centrage.

    • Faites attention à ne pas arracher le câble du capteur thermique en retirant le lecteur optique.

    There are two small plastic positioning pin holes on the right of the optical drive. When you replace the drive, make sure to align the pins with the holes as you slide the drive back into place.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du ventilateur du lecteur optique de sa prise.

    I would recommend placing STEP 21 (L/R speaker connector disconnect) before STEP 17…because the speaker wires sort of go over/on top of the connector in STEP 18. By putting step 21 first, those wires can be lifted and pushed aside making steps 17-20 easier.

    thburrows - Réponse

    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du câble de données de la carte SD de sa prise.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du câble d'E/S de sa prise.

    • Poussez alternativement sur les pattes de chaque côté du connecteur pour dégager le connecteur de sa prise.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone de sa prise.

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    • Libérez les connecteurs des haut-parleurs droit et gauche de leurs prises à l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger.

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    • Positionnez la carte AirPort en haut au centre de la carte mère et juste sous le disque dur.

    • Utilisez l'embout plat d'un spudger pour retirer avec précaution chacun des câbles d'antenne de leur prise.

    • Ne déconnectez pas les antennes en tirant sur les câbles au risque d'endommager les câbles, les connecteurs et les prises.

    • Les antennes ont des marques pour vous permettre de les rebrancher à la bonne place. L'antenne sans marque se branche sur "CH0", l'antenne avec une marque sur "CH1" et l'antenne avec deux marques sur "CH2".

    Do not disconnect the wires. Way over complicated. Follow the OWC instructions instead: unscrew the single Torx T6 screw and then wiggle the airport card off of its socket completely. No need to remember markings or add warnings about sensitive cables. Very easy step if done as described.

    Pim - Réponse

    If you do it this way check the optical connections afterwards. They are easily disturbed and in my case 2 of them came adrift. Fortunately I spotted this before re-installing the screen.

    startingtopuff - Réponse

    I concur with Pim. The WiFi card Torx screw in question is a T6 size.

    thburrows - Réponse

    I tried to unscrew the torx T6, but for some reason the screwdriver did not fit the screw. I had a T6. The screw is acting like the head is stripped already. Oh well, disconnected the tiny cables just fine.

    Andrew Van Vlear - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du capteur de caméra/Bluetooth/lumière ambiante de sa prise.

    I have got the ssd installed as my second drive using the dual drive kit. However, after reassembling everything, the CPU fan is running at full speed. Apple Hardware Test shows a failure for the error code TA0P, which points to a failure of ambient temperature sensor/connector. I have reassembled this machine 3 times now, with and without the ssd installation components and the problem is not going away.

    Does anyone know a fix for this? I do not have warranty on this machine (2011 iMac. 27'') to get the logic board replaced for free. However, I'm willing to get the sensor connector checked by a technician if that would fix it.

    Requesting help! :-(

    Gurpartap Singh - Réponse

    Does the additional sata cable has one male and a female end or else? Could someone post a link to the right cable on amazon for example?

    tokamilian - Réponse

    Today I have completed the installation of a Crucial MX100 254GB successfully. With help of the guides from ifixit and OWC it was not that difficult.

    However, when I booted my iMac the fans started raving.

    I reset SMC and PRAM several times. Opened the machine again to check connectors and cables. Same story as above.

    Everything looked fine, but the fans kept spinning at max. Seems like a booby- trap, it happens again and again.

    I would prefer things to work different but I now use Macs Fan Control to keep the peace.

    I hope this riddle will be solved one day.

    Clemens - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites pression sur les pattes du connecteur du ventilateur du disque dur pour le débrancher de sa prise.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites pression sur le connecteur du capteur thermique pour le débrancher de sa prise.

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    • Aidez-vous de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour débrancher le câble du ventilateur de l'UC.

    When you pry up the connector make sure you don’t knock off the two resistors at the bottom left of the CPU fan and the ambient temp sensor!

    Dan - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, poussez le connecteur du capteur de température ambiante hors de sa prise.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, débranchez le connecteur du bouton de mise sous/hors tension de sa prise.

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    • Localisez le capteur infrarouge situé derrière le logo noir Apple.

    • Si nécessaire, retirez l'adhésif qui recouvre le capteur infrarouge.

    • Tirez le capteur infrarouge vers le haut hors du boîtier.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement le capteur infrarouge du boîtier, car il est encore relié à la carte mère.

    The infrared sensor can be unplugged from its connection on the MLB and removed from the case completely. Doing this makes it much easier to reposition the MLB after ‘surgery'.’

    clinton - Réponse

    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 par lesquelles l'ensemble de la carte mère et du dissipateur thermique sont fixés au boîtier de l'iMac.

    The screws are of various lengths, so note carefully which order you remove them so as to replace them correctly. Especially note that of the three screws surrounding the right fan, the one closest to the optical drive is slightly longer that the other two (which are the same length).

    Matt Strange - Réponse

    • Soulevez, tout en en le faisant pivoter, l'ensemble de la carte mère et du dissipateur thermique de manière à l'écarter du boîtier de l'iMac jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez accéder facilement au dos de la carte mère.

    On the back of the MLB, below the graphics card socket, are 4 connections. While freeing the board, & as you tilt and lift it, gently rotate the whole assembly a bit less than 90˚ to the right, i.e. clockwise. This provides the slack needed to reach behind the board and disconnect them.

    Should you want to completely remove the MLB (in order to repair a dead Graphics Card, for example) be sure to note the orientation of these 4 rear cables. During re-assembly, replace these in the same orientation. Otherwise there will be a tangle and you will experience problems getting the MLB back in place.

    clinton - Réponse

    • Repérez la prise SATA secondaire, à côté de la prise principale.

    • Branchez le câble de données/alimentation SATA inclus.

    • Le côté du câble du disque dur avec un seul connecteur va sur le connecteur de la carte mère.

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    • Faites passer le nouveau câble SATA à travers la même encoche que le câble SATA principal et dans la baie du lecteur optique.

    • Tous les iMac 27'' (2011) ne présentent pas une encoche dans la baie du lecteur optique pour faire passer le câble. Si vous avez un de ces iMac, vous pouvez simplement faire passer les câbles sous le lecteur optique.

    • Remettez la carte mère en place, en faisant attention à ne pas accrocher, recouvrir ou pincer les câbles.

    • Veillez à ce que le câble SATA ait le plus de place possible et qu'il ne s'emmêle pas avec d'autres câbles.

    • Assurez-vous que le câble SATA ait suffisamment d’aisance et qu’il ne soit pas emmêlé à d’autres câbles.

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    • Pour fixer le nouveau SSD dans votre iMac, vous devrez placer un morceau de bande adhésive double-face ultra-résistante dans les quatre coins de l'unité, sur le côté où se trouvent les connecteurs SATA.

    • Retirez la pellicule de protection d'un côté de la bande adhésive double-face.

    • Collez le côté visible de la bande adhésive double-face sur l'angle du SSD.

    • Veillez à ne pas couvrir les connecteurs SATA avec le ruban adhésif double-face.

    • Répétez la procédure pour les trois autres coins.

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    • Branchez les connecteurs du câble de données et du câble d'alimentation SATA sur les prises correspondantes du SSD.

    • Retirez la pellicule de protection de la bande adhésive double-face.

    • Introduisez avec précaution le SSD dans la baie optique de l'iMac, le plus près possible du coin inférieur gauche.

    • Évitez de coller et décoller la bande plusieurs fois de suite, car l'adhésif risquerait de perdre de son adhérence.

    • Lorsque le SSD est positionné correctement, appuyez fermement sur les côtés de l'unité pour assurer une bonne adhésion.

    • Lors de la réinstallation du lecteur optique, le câble SATA sera pris en sandwich entre le rembourrage en mousse et le lecteur optique.

    Mac upgrades website do an optical bay conversion kit that means you do not need to remove the board and the whole install takes about 30mins. Also, fan issues- if you carefully remove the thermal sensor from the optical drive (its only stuck down with a little glue on the drives surface ) you are removing and then stick it onto the surface of the new hard drive the fans work perfectly.

    Colin Bladon - Réponse

    This guide says that “When re-installing the optical drive, the SATA cable will be sandwiched between the foam padding and the optical drive.” There’s not much foam padding to sandwich in the iMac that I have open.

    Richard Murray - Réponse


Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse, en commençant à l'Étape 27.

280 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Phillip Takahashi

Membre depuis le 22/08/2011

74 770 Réputation

85 tutoriels rédigés

50 commentaires

Don´t forget to take out the RAM first. Otherwise it is very difficult to replace the logic board back in it´s place.

B Riefel - Réponse

Excellent guide. Thank you!

I got through everything, turned on the iMac, got the start up gong, and ... nothing. Screen stayed black and the fans started blowing like crazy, indicating failure of Apple Hardware Test. All my attempts to remedy (zap PRAM, reset SMC) failed. Uh oh.

Opened the machine back up, took out the LCD, and re-seated all four connections from display panel to logic board. Crossed my fingers and put it back together. This time, the displayed turned on, the Apple logo appeared, system booted up, and the new SSD appeared on the desktop. Yay!

The connectors from the LCD are delicate. It's tricky to seat them properly without damaging them, but don't close it up without a positive click on each one.

The upgrade has been fantastic so far. SanDisk 120GB SSD. Dramatic speed improvement. Well worth all the surgery on the machine.

claytonhibbert - Réponse

in step 22 you can see the wifi cables are not connected anymore. but there is no step that shows you should disconnect them

R Sonnema - Réponse

+1 Unfortunately mine has been broken (CH1 cable is out from the UFL connector). Unfortunately I do not now how to repair it.

It would be important to add this step in order to protect others falling into the same issue.

PeterZ -

i followed this guide to the T. used a 240gig Corsair GS and after it gets far along the boot process the fans blow at max speed! i took the monitor off again to make sure i had all the connections in the right place. there was one i was missing... the ambient temp lol. but i plugged it back in and still fans blow full blast :( gonna keep messing with it to see if i can figure it out :)

paulhizo - Réponse

Hi, I have successfully installed a 1TB Seagate Hybrid hard drive and everything seems fine, except the fans are blowing at full speed constantly. Is this because the heat sensor for the optical drive is missing now? Has anyone got a solution?

Thank you

Andy - Réponse

It's because the standard Seagate drives contain a proprietary thermal sensor. you will have to purchase HDD Fan Control to get it to stop. It's the only solution short of shorting out the thermal sensors (dangerous).

Install the trial and you'll see.

Steven Hanlon -

I wouldn't recommend using HDDFanControl, because its not really a long term fix... I used it for a while, but it frustrated me that the fans didn't idle until the machine was fully booted, so if you need to do anything in single user mode, safe mode or even a boot camp or separate OSX boot up, you cannot use it. In the 2011 range, i'd recommend using this as a long term hardware solution

Jon Ridley -

All sorted!! I didn't realise I could install the optical drive back over the new hard drive, the fan keeps both very cool. Once I connected the optical drive & thermal sensor the fans calmed down to 1100 rpm. If you don't want to install the optical drive just take off the thermal sensor and connect it to the new hard drive and the logic board. Another thing I have learned in this experience is you need the optical drive in to install Windows (bootcamp) or you get a partitioning error at install. It is a safety feature Apple incorporated. Hope this helps others!! Thanks again for the replies

Andy -

OWC has a pretty good vid of this mod, including lots of important cautions which are absent from this guide. OWCmacsales is the channel name. I will be using all available material as this mod is high on the pucker-power scale.

Russell Hodin - Réponse

Why has double sided tape been used in this guide instead of the SSD brackets that are designed to be screw mounted under the optical drive? there are 3 screw mounts allocated to the mounting of the SSD. With the heat that is generated by the iMac machines, i'd be worried about it losing its bond and falling down, especially using tape bought from Boots instead of high strength industrial tape...

Jon Ridley - Réponse

We found that Apple removed the SSD brackets / screw holes in later units of the same model, and we wanted a universal solution that would help everyone add a dual drive to their iMac.

Miroslav Djuric -

The hack worked perfectly, thank you ifixit team & support!

There was a slight amount of compression when re-setting the logic board, but it doesn't appear to have stressed or pinched anything (yet). It certainly goes in a bit awkwardly. It does suffer a bit of a twist while man-handling it in & out. A bit unnerving.

The first set of suction cups had a defect and one wouldn't hold, & ifixit sales got one in the mail lickety split. +5 stars, ifixit sales!

A few suggestions managing airborne dust:

— do the hack on a windless, foggy day

— see the OWC video for how to handle & temporarily store the glass & LCD

— use a small camel-hair brush to drag dust mites to the edge of the LCD or glass during re-assembly.

Not sure what I'll do about internal dust in a year or so . . .

Russell Hodin - Réponse

I followed this guide successfully with the kit from ifixit and everything works very nicely. However, I somehow lost the sd card cable, which is not a big deal since my mom doesn't use the sd card slot. I'll put it back next year when I replace the hdd.

If you are planning on doing this, I have a couple of suggestions for you:

* count the cables you disconnect

* before putting the logic board back in, tape all the cables to the sides with some masking or electrical tape and count them again

* try not to touch the lcd, fingerprints are a pain to remove, don't touch the underside of the glass panel either, put it down suction cups down

The guide may look scary, but it's really not that bad.

Rafael Kitover - Réponse

Don't forget to install Trim Enabler or Chameleon SSD Optimizer for TRIM

Trim Enabler:

Chameleon SSD Optimizer:

Pepijn - Réponse

In the guide step 32 I see that connector is L-shaped, but in the kit picture it is not L-shaped. How important is to have L-shaped connector? Is there a place for a straight one?

Ivars Strazdins - Réponse

Thanks to you iFixit ! Perfect guide !

Iron42 - Réponse

I did this upgrade this week and was successful. I definitely don't recommend attempting this if you've never done a PC build, studied PC repair, or don't have steady hands. It helps a lot if you have a spare laptop playing the OWC video and playing/pausing it as you do each step. Also, I wore latex gloves to help prevent fingerprints from getting on the LCD.

A tip for migrating to the SSD: install a new OS instead of cloning. After I installed the SSD, I could not get into the Recovery due to some error, which using Recovery is an essential step to migrate OS X from the HDD to the SSD. A way around this issue is downloading Mavericks via the Mac App Store and do a new OS X install. From there, install OS X on your new SSD, then use the Migration Assistant to move everything to your new drive, which it does really well for you. Then, you can toggle Startup Disk in System Preferences (in case you aren't booting using the SSD).

Oh, and don't forget to manually enable TRIM on your new SSD.

mtlangr - Réponse

I installed the ssd and now I have the cpu fan running at full blast. it seems to start about 10 seconds after the iMac starts. I've go far as to undo and redo all of the steps TWICE. I've also detached the ssd and the cpu fan still runs at full blast. I've also tried the software solution and nothing works? It seems to be running at 3800 constantly. Any ideas? Please HELP!

andrewbpark - Réponse

Hi Andrew,

did you get that solved ????

I have the same problem now :-(



digdagdigedag -

Great guide.

Today I installed a Samsung EVO 840 250GB SSD behind the optical drive and swapped out the original 1TB Seagate HDD for a 2TB one. Works great.

This is not a very difficult thing to do. Just keep calm.

The hardest thing was to put the motherboard back in place...

My tips:

1. Read the steps a couple of times.

2. Have someone helping you holding the panel up while disconnecting those 4 cables.

3. Use a spudger and your fingernails to remove the cables. (spudger on one side/tab, fingernail on the other tab, or if possible just fingernails.

4. Mark every cable you disconnect (for example "pwr btw"). This make the rewiring a piece of cake.

5. Don't clean the "glass" with anything other than very hot water. I held it on the edges and held it in the shower. Any glass polisher or so will give you a headache. (I have tried to get it really clean several time before) Now its as good as new.

6. Yes. The fans WILL spin, but I use HDD fan control. Now it's super-SILENT ;)

twebbas - Réponse

There are too many steps in this guide that are unnecessary. Reading the comments, it seems like people are making mistakes and having problems. Follow the online video at OWC and it is an easier process, although still advanced. When you buy an SSD kit, it includes the proper length SATA cable and thermal double-sided tape. Someone commented about an SSD bracket behind the optical drive. Apple did not include the SSD bracket unless you bought the Mac build-to-order directly from Apple with their SSD installed. That is why thermal double-sided tape is used to secure the drive behind the optical drive. It won't go anywhere because the drive rests on the top of the optical bracket when you press it against the back panel, and the optical drive is re-installed in front of the SSD holding it in place. I did this upgrade about a year ago using a Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD and it is awesome.

Peter Hillman - Réponse

Done it in a hour and a half, great guide! "Hardest" part was replacing the mother board :s.

If you want to save money, you can buy your tools on eBay, 1st prices 3$ Torx T10, 3$ opening tools set, 10$ sata power cable, guitar pick instead of suction cups

Remi Nguyen Dinh - Réponse

Well. First I tried to source all of the parts in Canada, thinking it would take forever to get here from ifixit. I wasted more time doing that than anything else. It took 3 days for the HD, cables and repair kit to get here.

I have worked on, in and around computer my whole career so I was eager to take this on. The tear down and installation were straight forward (have the guide handy) but getting the main board seated in the right spot was frustrating to say the least. It wouldn't go back in, it took me over 30 minutes of careful attempts . It is all in there now and I am extremely happy with the performance and the storage!

You will need a fan controller software.

clevepohl - Réponse

Anyone know of a GOOD 'how to' on using the terminal to make this a functional Fusion Drive? I can't get mine to unmount to wipe then merge it, been trying for 2 days

William Evans - Réponse

I used this guide when I did a similar upgrade to my 21.5" iMac. Worked like a charm.

zachary -

Nice, and thank you very much for the guide !

Now I have a very strange behaviour here.

Since I installed the "Dual Hard Drive Kit" (the second cable basically) the FIRST SATA connector doesn't work any longer !

(I installed my second drive, wondered why it was not recognised, though it might even be broken 'till I switched the two disks and found out now my new disk was recognised but the old one was no longer visible).

My main objective was to switch my old (slow !) 1TB disk for a new 2TB with 4GB SSD cache.

So that's done.

But any idea why the primary SATA connector would no longer work ?

Is there anything like "primary" and "slave" switch (sadly known in the PC world ...) I should worry about ?

TIA for you help, and best regards,


Roger Kapp - Réponse

After installation of this setup my ODD Fans are going crazy. I did run a AHT and the error told me there is something wrong with the ODD temp sensor. So i tried replacing the temp sensor with a new one. I also tried removing the SSD and get back to the default state, also nothing.

Any tips or tricks on how to resolve this?

simonelberts - Réponse

just installed a SSD, but now I can't hear any sound from the OS. when I start the MAC, I get the usual "Bong", though. What mistake did I do? should I be looking for?

Mandarina Duck - Réponse

can't you just use the optical drive sata connectors to connect the new HD? just wondering cos i've seen other solutions which seem to attach the hd to a mount and then re-plug the optical sata cable back to that mount and looks MUCH MUCH MUCH easier.

i'm still to do this i've just ordered the kit, but if i would have seen the other kit before i would have ordered that one instead i think :/

Albert - Réponse

So many of us are having issues with the fans running at high speeds but no response from ifixit. Frustrating that they don't pay attention to their users

Jeffrey Hanley - Réponse

I did the upgrade and now my computer gives me the 3 tones of no ram installed no matter what way I insert the ram? Any suggestions.

Rick Hahn - Réponse

Hi, is it possible to add two SSDs and totally 3 disks?

Ferhat Yurdam - Réponse

Hello! I looked all of the instructions and read all the comments, but did not understand why so many complex actions with removing the motherboard? Why no one uses optibay as here: Installing iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 Dual Drive ???

Zhurik - Réponse

EVERYONE WITH FAN ISSUES: After searching for days only finding conflicting explanations for my fan issues, this site explains it all:

I installed the SSD as described below the optical drive, but the fans still went full blast. I thought this was only supposed to be happening if you replaced the original drive?

Well, at least it is now properly explained, and a solution exists.

Karl Ivar Dahl - Réponse

UPDATE: I still had fan issues after the "shorting trick" described above. However, running Apple Hardware test I found that I had a ambient CPU temperature sensor error. THIS DID NOT SHOW UP AS AN ERROR USING FAN CONTROL SOFTWARE, all sensors reported OK. I t turns out that sensor sockets can very easily be installed reversed when reassembling. It was very easy to fix when the sensor was identified. If you have trouble running the Apple Hardware test, have a look at the sensor connections: The solid plastic side should be down.

I now have no fan issues with an SSD installed as secondary, keeping the original HDD intact to make a great fusion drive. The "shorting trick" is probably only necessary if you replace the drive with the SSD.

The morale is: RUN THE APPLE HARDWARE TEST, do not trust the sensor values reported by the fan control programs.

Booting with D or OPTION-D should start the hardware test. This did not work for me, so I googled to find instructions on bootable USB stick installation.

Karl Ivar Dahl - Réponse

Stupendo tutorial molto esaustivo e ben illustrato. Complimenti.

ilario bignasci

edelweiss7 - Réponse

I have a question about this. What is the procedure to make a 2nd SSD the boot drive instead of the original HDD? Do I need to swap SATA Cables or can this just be done during the OS X Install? Thanks!

corymullen - Réponse

Option key at boot lets you specify boot device (DVD or external drive or secondary drive), but otherwise - if you're already in macOS on the old drive, goto System Preferences and select Startup Disk. You get to pick and choose whenever you want!

quiksel33 -

Successfully completed, was not so difficult :)

John Grace - Réponse

Excellent guide, thank you very much. I have just followed it to replace the SSD in my iMac (added 3 years ago following the same guide) and I took the opportunity - while I was up to my elbows in iMac bits - to swap the CPU. Replaced the OEM Core i5-2500S with an i7-2600. So far, touch wood, everything is running just fine. Thank you again!

davidhollway - Réponse

Addendum to my previous comment, because apparently there’s only a 5-minute edit window, grrr..

A couple of observations:

- Have a can of dry compressed air to hand. You’ll need it to blow dust off the exposed LCD panel (as the guide says, do NOT touch the panel… even wiping it with a cloth can leave a residue). Chances are there’ll be an accumulation of dust on the internal fans & heatsinks. Take the opportunity to give everything a good blast.

- Screwing the LCD back is perhaps the trickiest part, because there are strong magnets around the chassis frame (to hold the glass front panel). The screws will try to “snap” to the magnets rather than lining up. Care, patience, & a steady hand are required. A sleeved screwdriver would make this MUCH easier.

davidhollway - Réponse

More points - wish I could have put these in one comment but there’s a length limit. I’m trying to be useful here!

- There are a LOT of small connectors (temp sensors, speakers, fans, etc etc). I suggest small labels to put on the cables as you remove them; easy to miss one as you put them back, or make a mistake.

- The screws that hold the mainboard in place are of different lengths. Make a note of which screw came from where, so you can put them back in the right place.

That gives me an idea - hey, iFixit, why don’t you make available life-size templates of device internals, so that someone following your guides can print out the template and use it as a place-mat to keep the screws while working? I.e. “this screw came from the corner of the mainboard, so I will temporarily store it on that location on the printed template”…?

davidhollway - Réponse

Not a bad idea! Paper printouts have their limitations though—one good sneeze or gust of wind and everything gets messy fast. Printouts are also arguably a bit wasteful as people tend to use them once and then toss them out. If you haven’t yet, give the magnetic project mat a try—personally it’s my favorite tool for electronics repair, hands down. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

I use markers of different colors to mark the position of the connectors and screws.

Just paint the male and female of the connector with the same color and do the same with the heads of the screws and a paint point of the same color in the PCB.

alozano -

Complimenti, tutorial molto comprensibile ed esaustivo. Bravo

edelweiss7 - Réponse

Upgrade done. It is hard to connect the lcd to the motherboard (step 10). The first time I didn’t do it well and when turn on the computer, the display doens’t show nothing and the vents run like crazy. I turn off, connect again the connector (step 10) and all run well! Five star to this guide.

André Senra - Réponse

I added a 500GB Samsung SSD and also replaced the i5 2500S with a i7 2600. It works like a breeze! Had some issues with the ram, causing beeps after reassembly, but fortunately that was solved when switching the ram sticks a bit. Now I have a very fast iMac and together with 20GB of ram, a nice machine to do development on. Hoping that newer iMacs will again be more serviceable, but for now I am happy with this one!

Peterdk - Réponse

Successfully added a 1TB Samsung SSD in a little over an hour, cloned the old HD over and voila! This has breathed new life into my iMac and I couldn’t be happier.

Laura Calabro - Réponse

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