Introduction

Si votre MacBook n'a plus de batterie ou si vous ne voyez pas le petit voyant de recharge orange ou vert lorsqu'il est branché, vérifiez si le cordon est endommagé.

Dans ce tutoriel, nous changerons le cordon reliant le chargeur au MacBook. Vous pouvez également utiliser ce tutoriel pour réparer votre câble existant plutôt que de le remplacer.

  1. Les outils nécessaires :
    • Les outils nécessaires :

      • Un bon fer à souder et de l'étain

      • Une pince coupante

      • Une pompe à dessouder

      • Un grand levier plat (spudger) ou un tournevis plat fin en épaisseur mais assez costaud

      • Une paire de pince à anneau pour installer la bague du cordon externe. Ou une pince à bec long fera l'affaire, c'est tout simplement parfait pour ce travail si vous arrivez à en avoir une paire :-)

      • Super glue

      • Une ou deux étaux pour tenir pendant le séchage

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  2. Ouvrir les ailettes d'enroulement

    There is an easier way to open the case. Get a number 10 spanner and use it to prise off the case below the cable tidy clips. Wedge the outer 'fork' into the near corner of the space below the cable tidy clips and push the spanner away from you. Pop! Off it comes. Takes 2 seconds with very little physical effort. It is similar to the pliers approach but easier to do.

    Stephen Ashworth - Réponse

    Steven, could you elaborate on your suggestion? I think you’re suggesting we use a spanner bit, which looks like a a flathead screwdriver with a notch in the center of its straight edge. But spanner also means wrench in British English, so clarification would be helpful.

    Where is the near corner of th space below the clips. Could that also be described as “one of the side seams, right where it terminates and the depression that accommodates a tidy hook that’s not in use not in use begins”?

    El Crashitan - Réponse

    Dear Pierre:

    I’m not able to envision a successful implementation of this step. I don’t have a bench vise handy so I can’t just mess around until it works. If the needle-nose pliers is just sitting on the vise, and I’m holding the adaptor, what forces the pliers to pry the case open instead of clattering to the bench? Got photos?

    Carrie aka El Crashitan

    El Crashitan - Réponse

    What works for me is to put the power brick into a bench vise with the top of the vise jaws aligned with the power brick’s mid-case seam. Use a shop rag to prevent the case plastic from being scarred by the vise jaws. Slowly tighten the vise until you hear the popping sound of the plastic joint glue breaking. Repeat as necessary, with the power brick in different orientations within the vise. Eventually the seam will be broken and you can remove the case halves.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    Stephen’s visionary suggestion to use 10 mm open end wrench (also called 10 mm ‘combination ‘ wrench…) proved an EASY way to pry open the casing !

    Hold the case w/ left hand ; with ‘cord-winding flaps’ facing up .

    Flip open the ‘cord-winding flap’ nearest your left hand thumb which is gripping the case.

    Insert open end of your handy 10 mm wrench ( I tried 9, 11, & 12 mm wrench to compare …the 10mm is best ! ) into the newly exposed space under the just opened ‘cord-winding flap’. Pinning the ‘pointed end ‘ of wrench into corner under the flap which is about to become a PIVOT point… gently rotate the wrench about 30 degrees away from you , UNTIL the outside rounded shoulder of the wrench comes into contact w/ the OTHER inside edge of the case !

    While keeping the wrench pinned firmly against its ‘pivoting’ corner… CONTINUE trying to slowly rotate the wrench away from you… You are now PRYING the case open !

    Saved me on this one… Thanks,Stephen !- JJoslin ( Detroit, Mich.-south of Canadian borderline)

    John Joslin - Réponse

    Put adaptor in vice as described above & gently squeeze. You should hear at least one click/snap as I did to crack to glue seal. Don’t squeeze too tight or you’ll crack the body. Use a strongish knife blade, I used a cheap swiss army knife blade along the joins on all four sides. Don’t give up if 3 sides don’t come loose. Mine started to come loose on the cord side as it has less glue/surface area to hold it together. Start at the corners, there the easiest & tapped firmly with a hammer. It will start to come apart. Then use a thicker knife blade or similar & repeat. Pry open with small screwdriver slots & even the shaft of smaller drivers. Thanks to the above ideas. The more the merrier.

    ignas - Réponse

    • Si votre chargeur n'est jamais été ouvert avant, il sera difficile de l'ouvrir. Essayez d'utiliser un 'étau pour ajouter de la force à votre pince à pointeau

    • La poignée de votre pince à pointeau est posée sur l'étau fermé, insérez-la dans le bloque, puis fermer lentement l'étau.

    • Le boîtier sera fissuré aux jointures et vous pouvez continuer à l'étape suivante

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    • Terminez-le à la main; Vous devrez appliquer une certaine force.

    • À un moment donné, le bloque sera ouvert. (Les bords sont collés tout au long de l'arrête du bloque, et des bandes métalliques intérieures peuvent également être collées sur le boîtier avec un adhésif en mousse).

    • Les pièces d'angle à l'intérieur des volets d'enroulement, avec leurs ressorts métalliques plats, peuvent également se perdre; Notez leur disposition avec des ressorts orientés vers le cordon, pour réinstaller plus tard.

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    • Sortez-le avec précaution de sa coquille

      • Veillez à ne pas toucher l'un des conducteurs du condensateur, ou vous risquez de subir un choc électrique.

      • Si l'intérieur colle à la moitié de la coque, il est probablement dû à (a) une colle autour du bord du connecteur A / C, et / ou (b) une colle en mousse entre l'intérieur et l'intérieur de la coque.

        • Utilisez un spudger lourd ou un autre outil de levée pour gratter le bord du connecteur A / C de la coque et soigneusement entre la coque et l'intérieur pour briser la colle en mousse.

        • Utiliser uniquement des outils de sécurité anti-ESD. N'utilisez pas d'outils ou de tournevis métalliques.

      • Vous pouvez constater que les feuilles métalliques se brisent un peu; Ça va, mais essayez de minimiser les dommages!

    Sorry for my English, but I wanted to tell you that for security, before repairing the charger, it is recommended to download the power source, for this I share a video where it shows how you can download the capacitors with a simple screwdriver.

    https://youtu.be/G1HYBqeWSHI?t=310

    sosapple - Réponse

    Do you mean discharging the capacitors?

    It’s better to use probes connected to a power resistor than to use a screwdriver. Bumbling around with a screwdriver, you risk shorting the capacitor to something else, causing damage.

    tooki - Réponse

    Definitely avoid using a screwdriver. Use the right tool or follow this guide if you need to make one.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  3. Répandez la magie de Noël
    Obtenez 12 $ de réduction sur les commandes de 50 $ ou plus avec le code FIXMAS12
    Répandez la magie de Noël
    Obtenez 12 $ de réduction sur les commandes de 50 $ ou plus avec le code FIXMAS12
    • J'aime insérer un gros poteau pour faire plus de place au travail.

    On the 60W adaptor you might find a small metal tab with 2 tiny rivets holding the metal plate in place. This can be pried off gently and then the metal plate can be pulled out a little to make more space to work in.

    PiersC - Réponse

    • Assurez-vous de respectez la position pour les pôles négatif et le positif.

    • Pour commencer enlevez un peu d'étain avec la pompe à dessouder

    • Retirez les câbles, il faut un peu forcer mais soyez prudent pour ne pas casser la plaque (circuit imprimé).

    On the smaller 45W adapters, it is virtually impossible to desolder the white cable because the solder joint is hidden behind a capacitor.

    Tip: Pull with some force on the white cable with the pliers, it should come out clean without causing damage. It is not soldered directly onto the board, there is a receptacle in between which you can pull the cable out of. You can use this receptacle to solder or clamp in the new cable, too.

    Matthias Huber - Réponse

    (on the 45W) Be careful not to pull too hard on the white cable/clamp - I managed to rip a piece out of the PCB. Fortunately, I had another power adapter (with the same cable issue) lying around.

    One point that is missing from this guide:

    Partially remove the copper shielding to gain access to the white cable.

    Do it on the side that does not have the capacitor lead soldered to it.

    Simply peel off the adhesive tape, remove the tab out of the slot and peel up the shielding (it will look like a tent) to gain some space to access the 'white' solder spot. Be careful not to put too much strain onto the electrolytic capacitor's lead.

    redwoood -

    From the pictures, it looks like too much heat was applied when desoldering, so the eyelets/vias, which connect the wires to the conductive traces on the PCB, got pulled off the PCB along with the wires. This is something to be careful with, because if it happens you can end up with a useless/irreparable power adapter. Or at least the effort and cost involved in fixing it might be something not worth dealing with. It might be simpler/safer to clip the old wires and then solder them together with the wires of the new cord (like in this repair guide: Restoring Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable).

    blerkh - Réponse

    • Étamez le câble de remplacement, s'il ne l'est pas déjà, avant de le souder sur la carte ; il suffit de mettre les fils en place et de chauffer pour les installer.

    • Faire un angle à 90 degrés aide à les insérer.

    you need to solder those new leads to the board - that part seems to be missing here

    deanholdren - Réponse

    Are you talking about the ends of the cable ?

    If it is the case, just strip a little bit no longer than 3/16" of an inch ( like 3mm ) you have to make sure it is not too long; you can see at the step 8, there is no room on the other side of the board.

    And heat it to apply soldering on it so it looks like the picture, it is easy to insert and it weld solidly.

    Pierre Merineau - Réponse

    • Remettez le transfo dans le boîtier

    • Ce sera serré !

    When I opened the charger, it turns out the white wire is attached to a connection on the PCB marked "Out +", but the black one is loose so I don't know where it used to be. There are two options next to where the white wire is, one marked "Out -" and the other "ID"; also slightly further back there's one marked "ADJ". Anyone know which of those the black wire is meant to go into?

    Sorry if this should be obvious, but I'm a bit of a noob... :}

    Rob - Réponse

    • Placez le passe-câble dans la bonne position dans le boîtier.

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    • Mettez les ailettes d'enroulement du cordon en place.

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    • Mettez un peu de colle sur le couvercle du block

    • Évitez les zones de rabat et la zone du passe-fils.

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    • Gardez les ailettes en place en mettant le couvercle du haut.

    • C'est étroit alors soyez patient !

      • Assurez-vous que les ailettes tiennent en place.

    • Vous devriez porter des gants, quand vous manipulerez la super glue, vous risqueriez d'en mettre sur vos doigts.

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    • Fixez le boîtier et donnez-lui quelques heures pourvue la colle prenne bien.

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    • Comme neuf !

    Good articel.

    I just repaired the power adapter for my friend's MacBook and it's now working perfectly. The case cracking method is inspired! Never would have thought of using a pair of needle nose pliers that way. I hate that cliche about "thinking outside the box" but it truly applies in this case. Thanks.

    BTW,this articel is also very usefull.

    http://www.eachbattery.com/guide/how-to-...

    hewanyv557 - Réponse

    Just did this repair on my wife's MacBook a little while ago, but I only cracked the case open enough to pull put the cable and clip the wires at the strain relief. Then I soldered the new cable to those cable ends, added the shrink tubing, and re-sealed the case with superglue. It looks and works like new! Much easier than going to the board. I also held the ears in place with scotch tape so they wouldn't move while closing it up.

    John Lewis - Réponse

Conclusion

Une fois terminé, dites-le à tous vos amis ayant un câble défectueux ;-)

117 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Pierre Merineau

Membre depuis le 10/02/2010

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1 tutoriel rédigé

28 commentaires

This guide was very helpful in figuring out what needed to be done and how to do it. I don't have access to a lead pump so I ended up removing the old wires and then soldering the new ones on top of the remaining solder. So far it's working just fine!

Wildlife Ecology - Réponse

I wasn't able to open my charger, even when using heat, the pliars as shown here and even a knife. As the damage to my cable was a few inches from the charger I just cut the cord and soldered a new one to the end. Cable looks a bit ratty but you could use white tubing to place over the top.

This guide is great and would definitely use it if possible =)

Ben Winkler - Réponse

Try using bench vise with needle-nose plier

ridwan -

Thank you guys.. this guide was super helpful, without this I would have to spend 73 box unnecessarily.

Thanks again..

Lorenzo Cremisi - Réponse

My powersafe adapter(a1436) has broken cable and i want to repair it, do you know how many volts out if you connect the multimeter on the black and white cable? I get 9,77v is that correct?

Fotis Karolos - Réponse

Great instructions. No solder pump either but so far it is working. $6.50 for parts instead of $40 for a new unit. Thanks very much!

Frederick D - Réponse

Great guide thanks, I bought my replacement lead on eBay for £5 and it's now working a treat.

One word of warning though, careful where you stick your fingers as I got a couple of zaps of electricity from something inside (yes it was unplugged :)

If you don't have a solder pump / solder sucker then I recommend you buy one before you start, it'd be tricky to clear out the holes on the board without one.

Andy B - Réponse

I did this on an 85W adapter (official from apple, the one that came with the laptop) and the system is now reporting the connected charger as 60W. Any ideas on why this would be the case?

steve - Réponse

Because your magsafe replacement cable inner electronic ID is 60W.

Terrence Zhu -

My guess would be that even though you have an 85 w charger, your computer only needs and draws 60w. Hope this helps

Harry - Réponse

The electronic ID for the adapter is on a small circuit board inside the MagSafe connector, so it looks like the cable you bought emulates the 60w model.

Grangerham - Réponse

Very useful guide. My 85W's charger's lead was damaged near the charger. I opened it up following your guide. Accessing the back of the circuit board where the black lead is soldered on was tricky due to the copper shielding, so I cut the leads and soldered it them back together, with the join inside the unit. This lost me the cable strain relief but I improvised one with hot melt glue and Sugru! Not exactly looking like new, it works nicely - thanks!

Seb Wills - Réponse

Failure to connect is a common problem; i.e. no light on the connector, and partial or no charging. The magnetic surface of the connector may be damaged. To fix, take a snap off blade knife, & run the back of the blade across the mating surface of the connector, to remove any bumps. Had trouble with mine for months; just tried this now, worked immediately. ;-)

stuart21 - Réponse

Once I knew what to do, it was easy. I'd like, however, to add one additional hint: the housing splits open a little bit easier on the mains plug side, because the glued seam is shorter there.

R.D. Z. - Réponse

Great guide!!! I've now replaced two MagSafe cables without much of a problem. I bought the replacements on amazon.... no problems yet.

If you use regular needle nose pliers (or snap ring for that matter) tape the ends so that you don't damage the case. Also, start prying apart on the short end of the case as there is less adhesive. Two clamps are better than one when closing up the case. Good luck!

Voscillate - Réponse

great guide - thanks. I made a right mess of removing the soldered wire (I was fixing an 85w magsafe 2). I was using a pretty rubbish soldering iron, but amazingly it all works now! The hair dryer worked well, but amazing how much force was require and amazed I did not break it.

Steuart - Réponse

On ifixit, all I found or on the net in gereral, al I found is how to fix the adaptoer itself. But what about the plug? It is my second time, the wiring inside of the plug itself came lose. But I don't seem to be able to open the plug to fix the wire, any idea how to fix it? By plug I mean the small end of the adaptor where the orange or green led lites up on the Macbook Air

rich1812 - Réponse

Thank You. Your guide is very helpful and I can fix my adapter like a new one.

ridwan - Réponse

I just fixed my 45w charger from 2011 (Macbook Air) and it is not possible to get to the + wire in the charger. I ended up cutting the wire, and connecting the new one to it - and covering the solder with shrink-wrap.

Casper Pedersen - Réponse

I had a frayed cord, with the conducting metal wire completely detached from the rest of the conducting wire (below the insulating material). If that's the case for you, you can peal off the insulating layer from an old iPhone charger, remove the conducting wire and use it to join the two dead ends on the cord of your macbook charger. Apply some electrical tape on top of it and you now have a working charger!

btw, does anyone know what metal this wire is made of?

al 4515 - Réponse

Mine, was difficult to reassemble. I fix the original cable, cutting the damaged part and drilling a hole in the original cable grommet with a dremel rotary tool then passing through the cable and solder it to the board.

Juan Gonzalez - Réponse

Many thanks. Unfortunately, I think the cable shorted out the power supply before breaking in two. The fuse needed replacing but not a whimper after completing your excellent instructions.

Peter - Réponse

Dude, Your “replacement cable 5 pins(magsafe)” shop link doesn’t work now, I find a useful purchase link. https://goo.gl/MxQT5S

Terrence Zhu - Réponse

Very very uselful guide!!!! thanks!!!!

I found that the ground (negative) connection on the pcb a bit tricky to desolder, since (I think) there’s a RATHER BIG grounding area right under the inner component area, there, that dissipates the soldering iron heat too much. I used an 100W soldering stick to have a short desoldering / resoldering time.

Also I found there’s a chocke coil, put there probably for interference suppression. I completely removed it since I found no interference at al with the macbook, nor other appliances around.

Mario Di Stefano - Réponse

Slightly different question.

I’d like to replace the Wall Plug on the long AC cord included with the Magsafe. The one I have is for UK outlets, but I’d like to remove and replace it with a “Schuko” type plug, which for me in Europe is more convenient. I don’t want to use those little plastic adapter kit things.

Is there anything I should be careful with here? Or is the wiring pretty straightforward? What about grounding?

Just asking basically if it would be a standard kind of electrical cord change, or if the Magsafe has anything particularly different about it.

Thanks.

Matt - Réponse

Matt, Apple sells replacement cables with whatever plug is used in your country (even though magsafe 2 adapters-in Europe- now come with an in-line plug rather than Schuko). Schuko cables are also pretty easy to find, used, online.

If you want to fix the cable yourself, you will find that the wall-outlet end of the cable is pretty straightforward: 3 different-color wires. The Schuko plug also has three cable receptacles, just be careful which wire is Ground.

Enrico -

Hello everyone,

I replaced the cable around two years ago and it worked fine until now. No more power coming out of the magsafe since last week.

So I opened it again and while testing if there was a parasite connection or something, I found out that the + and - of the “new” cable are somehow connected (resistance test with multimeter). So I unsoldered the white cable from the charger and there is still a connection somewhere between the white and black cable.

With my understanding of electronics, this seems highly problematic for the charger to work but maybe I am missing something.

Any idea?? Could be that the replacement cable is not working anymore (default contact somewhere)?

Thanks for your help

Nicolas

Nicolas deville - Réponse

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