Introduction
Follow this guide to remove or replace the logic board in a Wi-Fi only iPad Air 3. The cellular model will require disconnecting the upper cellular antennas.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The logic board is paired to the Touch ID fingerprint sensor. If you replace the logic board, your Touch ID sensor will no longer work as a fingerprint sensor. It will still work as a home button.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
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You may need to reapply heat repeatedly throughout this process to prevent the adhesive from cooling and hardening.
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Prepare an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad's screen for about two minutes.
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Place a suction cup next to the iPad's home button and press down to create a seal.
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Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
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Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Slice through the adhesive under the screen by sliding the pick along the edge of the display, towards the bottom left corner.
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Leave the pick in place temporarily to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply heat to the left edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
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If necessary, re-heat your iOpener for a few seconds or until it's a bit too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener, or it may burst.
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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
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Slide the second opening pick along the left side of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.
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Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply heat to the final, right edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
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Insert a fourth opening pick at the top right corner of the iPad.
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Slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to cut the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner—pausing to apply more heat if needed—and cut the remaining adhesive on the bottom edge, but stop before you reach the home button.
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To disconnect the battery, slide one prong of a battery blocker or the tip of an opening pick under the battery power connector to ensure the power circuit is interrupted.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket:
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Three 1.4 mm-long screws
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Two 2.4 mm-long screws
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Use a spudger to push the upper component bracket towards the upper edge and off of the clips located near the rear camera.
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Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect a logic board antenna cable by lifting up on the cable as close to the connector as possible.
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Repeat for the other logic board antenna cable.
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the antenna cables away from the logic board.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel the right antenna cable away from the logic board.
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Fold both the left and right antenna cables out of the way.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape covering the right speaker connector.
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Repeat for the left speaker connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape from the back of both speaker connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Repeat to disconnect the front camera and microphone assembly cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.3 mm-long screw securing the logic board shield.
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Insert the tips of a pair of tweezers into the gaps under the the logic board shield on the upper right corner.
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Pry up slightly to loosen the logic board shield.
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Grip the logic board shield with your fingers.
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Slowly lift the shield up and remove it.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the rear case:
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Two 2.4 mm-long screws
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Two 1.7 mm-long screws
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the rear case for a minute.
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Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board arm near the rear camera.
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Pry up the arm until you can slide in an opening pick underneath it.
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Push the opening pick underneath the logic board to slice the adhesive.
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Use a spudger to move the Smart Connector cable behind the opening pick.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 3 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 3 Answers community for help.
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