on my early-2011, these screws were Torx

This is the trickiest step in this whole process, both detaching and reattaching. I’ve been through this logic board repair scenario with my Early 2011 about 4x now, and if, when you reassemble, you’re still having problems with your display of any sort, this is your number 1 achilles heel is this connector getting dirty (use high purity over 90% isopropyl alcohol often found at drug stores next to the regular 70% stuff for cleaning) or not seating properly. I have broken off the connector bracket mount that goes over the top but was able to use pure silicone to safely reattach it. Don’t break that top bracket off sliding this puppy out; it’s a very dicey situation!

Not a big deal maybe but I have an Early 2011 and it doesn’t have the plastic tab on the battery connector (as if it were a Late 2011) AND it uses torx screws. So if you’re planning to tear into a 2011, get a torx screwdriver—there’s a chance you might need it even if you don’t have a Late 2011

“Pro” means flexibility, and always has. It isn’t about whether the user does the upgrades themselves; it is about the power to upgrade a machine. This ability to continue to invest in your investment is part of what makes a machine “Pro.” I would rather pay an extra $1000 for a machine that is upgradeable, than for one that is not. Apple got it all wrong in this arena this time. Thin is overrated in a “Pro” product; Apple could have traded thinness for upgradability.

Everything works except now my headphone jack doesn't work. I see when I take it apart again that there is a flex cable that needs to either touch or attach to the motherboard. Which is it? Does it need to 'snap on' like the other flex cables? It is in a nearly impossible location to reach. Thanks!