It would seem that the camera is having issues completing its Power On Self Test or POST. In this particular camera this can be caused by two main issues. (1) Mainboard Failure - The camera has physical damage internally that is preventing the mainboard from competing its power on sequence and presenting you with an error code. (Bad - only canon can fix this) (2) Corrupted Firmware - The software that runs the camera is corrupted preventing the camera from properly starting. (There is hope - read on!) I have had success with reloading the firmware on my old camera when this same error happened after I left my camera in my minivan on a sweltering day. Follow the link below for the latest firmware and instructions on how to reload it. http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eosdigital5/firmware.html

DO NOT attempt to repair your camera. This will VOID the warranty which is one year from date of purchase. The warranty covers parts and labor. Please allow Canon to repair your camera. They will be sure to return your camera to factory new!

The Motorola Droid 3 is not easy to get apart due to the fact the little bugger has no security screws, is a slider, and the display and digitizer are glued together, and the assembly is glued to the phone as well. In the war against adhesive a moderate quality heat gun is your ally, as at softens the adhesive allowing you to remove the components without utterly destroying the fragile plastic housing. A step by step guide can be found here: http://www.repairsuniverse.com/motorola-droid-3-screen-repair-take-apart-guide.html If you wind up doing this, take photos and document it on iFixit as a giude!

This is quite the popular question! However I have bad news for you. The cameras, although similar in physical size and dimensions are made by different manufactures and thus have different connectors to communicate with the phones motherboard. In short you can not plug one into the other. Sad I know.

I would not recommend attempting to repair this phone. Specifically the AMOLED screen is attached to the digitizer by glue. The digitizer/screen is glued into the bezel. No one has succeeded in replacing the screen and Digitizer without breaking the old one into many dangerous sharp pieces. Removing the glue involves heating the device to levels that risk damaging the device, 130C. This has led to speculation that Samsung just replaces defective i9000 devices due to the high cost of labor involved with repair. I really can not explain how much glue is involved. If however you really want to give it a go, read this forum post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=745262

You may want to see the little preview of text messages that turn up on your home screen when a new text (SMS) message comes in. To turn this on, head to your iPhone settings and go to: General -> Passcode Lock -> Show SMS Preview Turning on 'Show SMS Preview' will enable the text message preview on your iPhone. You will get an alert that the message came in, including the sender's name/number, as well as a portion of the message.

Your 1999 Tahoe may be equipped with GM's Vehicle Anti Theft System or VATS. The VATS system is composed of a set of contatcs integrated into the ignition carrier, which reads the unique resistance value of a resistor embedded within the key. When you attempt to start the vehicle the Tahoe's VATS module reads the resistance value from the key. If it does not match the programmed value the VATS module will command the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to disable the injectors and the spark system. If you change out your ignition tumbler, you will have to use the new keys, which contain different resistance values! This will prevent your Tahoe from starting. But all hope is not lost. The most expensive and easiest option would be to have a dealer change out the ignition and use their Tech2 tool to reprogram the VATS module to the new keys. This takes less than 10 minutes. The cheaper and more time-consuming option is to attempt to use the owner key re-learn procedure. The steps are as follows. (1) Replace the...

From the description of your symptoms it sounds like the LCD itself is the failure point. In between the layers of glass, masks, liquid-crystals and more glass is a grid of transparent conductors. three for every row, RGB, or Red Green and Blue the component colors of light. On the opposite side of the liquid crystals is another grid, but with only one conductor for all three, this is known as the common line. The displays circuitry places a voltage across the front three changing the color of the pixel and the minute current is returned via the common. Now if the common line fails, an entire column, or row of pixels fails in the full open position, giving you that white line. The iPod itself has no idea this is happening, it is just commanding the display and listening to the touch screen. This is why you can still control it, but can not see the interface. If you can connect a set of AV cables and get un-corrupted video you have even more proof that the display is at fault. Consider replacing the display...

The Acer Aspire One, and all modern laptops use Lithium-Ion battery cells to store the energy needed to run the laptop when disconnected from mains, or wall power. Unlike older battery technologies, Lithium-Ion batteries are high-maintenance batteries, the prima donna of the battery world. The battery pack attached to your laptop has battery monitoring and maintaining circuitry inside the pack itself, making sure the battery pack does not get over-charged, under-charged, makes sure every cell in the pack is charge leveled, and even disconnects the pack if too much current is drawn which could result in a thermal runaway or explosion. This circuit could be interrupting the the charge around 60%. Alternatively you could be experiencing battery wear. Each time you charge a Lithium-Ion battery it "burns" off a tiny fraction of its capacity. Over the years, or after many many charge cycles you could in fact be left with only 60% of your original battery capacity. In either case the best and safest thing to do...

Looks like a General Hardware Failure.