Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer l'ensemble écran Retina, vitre et caméra iSight.

Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
  • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Réponse

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Réponse

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Réponse

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Get it!

marketing - Réponse

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - Réponse

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - Réponse

Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
  • Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

  • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

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  • Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

  • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Réponse

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Réponse

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - Réponse

  • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

jodieabc - Réponse

There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

Jaime Leonard - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Réponse

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Réponse

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -


I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Réponse

  • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Réponse

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Réponse

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Réponse

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - Réponse

  • Retirez délicatement la protection en caoutchouc du bord du dissipateur de chaleur.

  • La protection s'enroulle autour du dissipateur thermique et s'insère dans les fentes du conduit de ventilateur. Lors du remontage, assurez-vous d'insérer les languettes dans les encoches du conduit.

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  • Insérez la pointe d'un spudger sous chacun des câbles d'antenne près de leur connecteur et soulevez-les pour les débrancher de la carte AirPort.

  • Les trois câbles correspondent à des manchons noirs de différentes longueurs. Lors du remontage :

    • Connectez le câble au manchon long à la prise centrale.

    • Le câble au manchon court se connecte à côté de la vis.

    • Le câble restant n'a pas de manchon et se connecte à la dernière prise vide, à côté du ventilateur.

I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

Vanessa schroll - Réponse

This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

Darius - Réponse

does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

M N - Réponse

When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

Joshua Johnson - Réponse

thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

Kevin Lynch -

everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

M N - Réponse

I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

M N - Réponse

You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

Kent - Réponse

I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

Tim - Réponse

Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

D B - Réponse

  • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour appuyer de chaque côté du connecteur de la nappe de la caméra iSight, pour la faire sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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  • Décollez la nappe de la caméra iSight du boîtier du ventilateur.

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  • Prenez la languette en plastique noir pour ouvrir le connecteur de la nappe de l'écran et tirez-le tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Pendant la réinstallation, assurez-vous de remettre correctement la languette du connecteur de la nappe de l'écran.

This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

nmackaron - Réponse

Thanks for adding this comment !

jrbhome - Réponse

Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

Dutchie - Réponse

hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

Karla Díaz - Réponse

If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

maccentric -

  • Retirez les caches de charnière en caoutchouc des charnières à droite et à gauche de l'écran.

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  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T5 de 4,2 mm fixant les supports de charnière en aluminium de chaque côté du Macbook.

I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

harveyhalfpint - Réponse

Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

Steven Fillingham - Réponse

This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

nmackaron - Réponse

The T5 in the set I bought from was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

Brian Hultin - Réponse

  • Utilisez une paire de pincette pour retirer les supports de charnière en aluminium des charnières à droite et à gauche de l'écran.

  • Lors du remontage, la partie verticale du support et le rail en aluminium au centre du Macbook doivent être alignés.

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  • Retirez les quatre vis Torx extérieures T8 de 5,3 mm (deux de chaque côté) fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Certains modèles peuvent avoir des vis Torx T9 au lieu de T8.

Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Réponse

On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

  • Ouvrez le MacBook Pro d'un peu plus de 90 degrés et posez-le debout sur la table, comme illustré.

  • Tout en maintenant l'écran de votre main gauche, retirez la vis T8 Torx restante du support supérieur de l'écran.

  • Assurez-vous que l'écran et le boîtier supérieur sont stables et ne risquent pas de tomber, ce qui pourrait endommager chaque composant.

  • Retirez la dernière vis Torx T8 restante fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

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  • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et tournez-le légèrement dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, vers le haut de l'écran de façon à séparer les supports de l'écran du bord du boîtier supérieur.

  • Faites pivoter légèrement l'écran pour l'écarter du boîtier supérieur.

  • Éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur, en faisant attention aux dispositifs de fixation et aux nappes, qui pourraient rester accrochés.

When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

Eric - Réponse

Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

Steven Fillingham - Réponse

Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

Haley Hildreth - Réponse

The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

D B - Réponse


Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

113 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Sam Lionheart

Membre depuis le 18/10/2012

333 503 Réputation

534 tutoriels rédigés


iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit


107 membres

6 513 tutoriels rédigés

27 commentaires

I've been browsing guides to this model and I don't get how in this one on Youtube the laptop looks completely different, although it also claims to be A1502. Either one of them is a different model or I'm really missing something?

Marina Gorobevskaya - Réponse

Unfortunately the A1502 number isn't an exclusive model number, several devices share it, the internal differences between them vary. The more telling number is the EMC number, which tends to me more exclusive to unique devices.

Sam Lionheart -

After a closer look they actually seem to be the same, I just got confused by the video being a lot less detailed than this walkthrough. I just replaced the screen of my macbook following this guide (yay!) without any previous experience of fixing macbooks, though I must admit I assembled a few desktops at the dawn of the millennium. The only slight problem I encountered was that the main display cable wouldn't lie flat enough in that corner, it kept sticking out, and even after screwing the lid on the gap at that corner seems to be a tiny bit wider. But the laptop is working anyway.

Thank you Sam for posting this guide! It saved me a lot of time and money. Being in China I bought the display assembly on Taobao for $250US whereas the shop repair estimate that I got was around $400.

If anyone is still having doubts - you can do it!

Marina Gorobevskaya -

The guide is very helpful. I managed to replace my screen within 1 hour. I bought my screen from ifixit too! the product is genuine and in good condition although it says that it has been used before! Highly recommended!

henrycwc - Réponse

Can you replace just the LCD without the clamshell bezel and cables?

rickcostel - Réponse

Kind of. In most laptops the lcd assembly is a separate unit that can be replaced. In these the top case serves as the lcd assembly.

But you can replace just the lcd polarizer. It is much more difficult than replacing the whole display assembly, as the diffuser panel which is directly behind the polarizer is very fragile.

This video provides a guide on how you can do it:

elec1cele -

I managed to replace the display assembly pretty smoothly and got a cool video out of it! For anyone interested in watching a 2-minute time-lapse version, you can watch it here: (

bexoro - Réponse

Great guide. I was able to complete this in 45 mins with a 4 year old running around the table I was working on. Thanks for a thorough guide. Also bought the screen from ifixit and it looks great.

searnold - Réponse

Excellent guide! Completed it in about 20 minutes and everything works now!

Vsevolod Kamnev - Réponse

Great guide, easy to follow.

Replacement display from iFixit had the brackets folded down towards the screen, had to unfold them carefully with pliers.

Take note - the black hinge cover (the bulge on the display assembly) shifts left and right. Make sure to adjust it dead center when assembling. Also make sure to align display with bottom case perfectly before tightening down the bracket screws.

Leonid - Réponse

good guide replaced my screen no major issues, reattaching the three small cables was the trickiest bit and definitely needed care.

nikolas hodges - Réponse

To reinstall the new display, do you just follow the instructions backwards?

Tee - Réponse

A great guide, I spent around an hour to complete removal and install of new display (from iFixit), its cheaper than getting Apple repaired and results in a great quality fix, my daughter is over the moon. I chose the B grade screen and its great, not sure what scratches they are referring to :)

Steven Fillingham - Réponse

Followed this guide and mine turned out AMAZING. So happy I didn't spend the $500-$600 to have someone else fix it. Literally spent less than an hour to do it all. I would highly recommend buying the needed tools for it .

Shane Hennessy - Réponse

Am I wrong or it is not possible to replace the front-glass only (without the LCD), on the A1502 Model ? (late 2013) ?

I cannot find the front-glass for this model on the internet... any idea where I can find it ?

Clement Bouchardeau - Réponse

I need to replace the hinge connected to the display assembly, would that be possible?

Sokar599 - Réponse

Brilliant guide as usual all done in half an hour. Worth noting that I could not adjust the brightness at first but a PRAM reset sorted that out nicely.

Thank you.

MattOckendon - Réponse

Just did the same repair.. I am also having display brightness issues but already tried PRAM and SMC resets. Brightness works under Bootcamp but not macOS... any ideas? A third party utility I downloaded allows me to control brightness but I really should be able to use the brightness adjustment keys. Lastly, the 1440x900 display resolution option is gone as well. Stuck with 1024x600 or 1280x800 (default but highest resolution option I have).

Santiago Moreno -

Step 15, Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Réponse

Thanks for the very detailed guide. Replacing the screen worked like a charm! But I have a problem: My screen does not turn on. I can hear the start-up sound but the display only shows a black light. By connecting an external screen via HDMI and closing the lid I can boot normally. I tried PRAM and SMC reset, but neither helped. I switched back to the old/half broken screen and it turned on normally. Any idea what I could do next?

Sonopha - Réponse

Hi, it’s me again. I managed to make it work. It seems that one of the connectors were not connected in the right way. I did not do anything different but switched once back to the old screen and then to the new one again, and it is working. I suspect the one from step 11. I read in other forums that the display connector can be a problem. Thanks for this wonderful guide!

Sonopha -

Super Anleitung. Ich hab es auf den ersten Anlauf geschafft. Danke

Theater Salz und Pfeffer - Réponse

My display is fine but my cable appear to be broken. It only works at certain angles. Is there any way I can avoid replacing the whole screen?

Jerry G. - Réponse

Excellent, thought I’d killed my screen by dropping the ‘book, but all I needed to do was reseat the main cable. THANKS!!

Benspamm - Réponse

This is a great guide! Managed to complete removing the display assembly in less than 20 minutes. Any leads on how to fix/replace a broken lcd? Can that be done? or does one need to replace the entire display assembly?

Mitalee Parikh - Réponse

How can I know if my laptop would need a t9 or t8 for step 15??

Ali Asadian - Réponse

Many thanks for the detailed, careful instructions - and especially the clear, useful photos. Saved me a lot of money, and a lot of headache. Repair was clear and straightforward.

Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

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