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Droit à la réparation

Boutique

Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour démonter ou remplacer les boutons externes de volume de votre iPhone 6s. Ce guide sert uniquement pour les boutons physiques et non pour les commutateurs électroniques en dessous.

Si vous devez remplacer la nappe de contrôle du volume ou l'électronique qui la gère, consultez

ce tutoriel.

  1. Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et / ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer son démontage.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,4 mm situées au bord inférieur de l'iPhone, de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Réponse

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Réponse

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Réponse

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Réponse

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Réponse

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Réponse

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Réponse

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Réponse

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Réponse

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Réponse

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Réponse

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Réponse

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Réponse

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Réponse

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Réponse

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Réponse

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: Remplacement de l'ensemble connecteur de charge Lightning de l'iPhone 6s

    TimD -

  2. Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.
    • Vous pouvez aussi utiliser un iOpener ou un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer très légèrement le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant une minute.

    • La chaleur permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe l'écran facilitant ainsi l'ouverture.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Réponse

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Réponse

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Réponse

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Réponse

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Réponse

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Réponse

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Réponse

  3. L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.
    • L'ouverture de l'écran sur le 6s sépare une mince bande d'adhésif autour du périmètre de l'écran. Si vous préférez remplacer l'adhésif, préparez un ensemble de nouvelles bandes adhésives avant de continuer.

    • Appliquez une ventouse sur le coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.

    • Prenez soin de ne pas placer la ventouse sur le bouton Home.

    • Si votre écran est très fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche de ruban adhésif transparent peut permettre à la ventouse d'y adhérer. Vous pouvez également utiliser un ruban adhésif très résistant à la place de la ventouse. Si tout le reste échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur l'écran cassé.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Réponse

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Réponse

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Réponse

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Réponse

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Réponse

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Réponse

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Réponse

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Réponse

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Réponse

  4. Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière. Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.
    • Tirez sur la ventouse avec une pression ferme et constante pour ouvrir un léger espace entre le panneau avant et le boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran complet a un ajustement beaucoup plus serré que la plupart des appareils et est maintenu enfoncé à l'aide d'un adhésif.

    • Tirer trop fort peut endommager l'écran. Appliquez juste assez de pression pour créer un petit espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Si vous avez des difficultés, faites chauffer l'avant de l'iPhone à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un sèche-cheveux ou d'un pistolet à air chaud, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement trop chaud au toucher. Ceci permet de ramollir la colle qui fixe les bords de l'écran.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Réponse

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Réponse

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Réponse

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Réponse

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Réponse

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Réponse

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Réponse

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Réponse

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Réponse

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Réponse

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Réponse

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Réponse

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Réponse

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Réponse

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Réponse

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Réponse

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Réponse

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Réponse

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Réponse

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Réponse

  5. Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone. Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.
    • Il y a une encoche sur la face inférieure de l'écran, juste au-dessus de la prise de casque. Ceci est l'endroit le plus sûr pour commencer à ouvrir le téléphone.

    • Placez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'espace entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière directement au-dessus de la prise casque.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Réponse

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Réponse

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Réponse

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Réponse

  6. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone. Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre  le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.
    • Tournez le spudger pour accroître l'écart entre le panneau frontal complet et le reste du téléphone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Réponse

  7. Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate du spudger sur le côté gauche du téléphone entre l'écran et le boîtier arrière.

    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté du téléphone pour séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Réponse

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Réponse

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Réponse

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Réponse

  8. Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone. Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.
    • Retirez le spudger et le réinserrez-le sur le bord inférieur où vous avez ouvert le téléphone.

    • Faites glisser le spudger vers la droite, le long du bord inférieur du téléphone.

  9. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.
    • Faites glisser le spudger sur le côté droit afin de continuer à séparer l'adhésif et faire sauter les clips de l'écran de l'iPhone.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Réponse

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Réponse

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  10. Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif. Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.
    • Utilisez la ventouse pour ouvrir l'écran, tout en rompant le dernier adhésif.

    • Ne pas ouvrir l'écran à plus de 90º car il est toujours connecté en haut par trois nappes qui peuvent se déchirer si on tire trop dessus.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Réponse

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Réponse

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Réponse

  11. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal. Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.
    • Tirez sur la petite surélévation en plastique sur le côté de la ventouse pour la retirer du panneau frontal.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Réponse

  12. Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière. Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone. Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.
    • Saisissez doucement l'écran et soulevez-le pour ouvrir le téléphone, en utilisant les clips en haut de la face avant comme une charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à environ 90 ° et le posez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande de caoutchouc pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite de forcer sur les nappes de l'écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une canette de boisson fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Réponse

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Réponse

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Réponse

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Réponse

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Réponse

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Réponse

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Réponse

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Réponse

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Réponse

  13. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes maintenant la fixation du connecteur de batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    • Tout au long de cette réparation, faites attention à chaque vis et remettez-les exactement à leur emplacement d'origine pour éviter d'endommager votre iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Réponse

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Réponse

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Réponse

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Réponse

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Réponse

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Réponse

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Réponse

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

  14. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone. Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez la fixation du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Réponse

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Réponse

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

  15. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Réponse

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Réponse

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Réponse

  16. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation. Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.
    • Eloignez le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère afin qu'il reste séparé de sa prise, pour éviter toute connexion accidentelle à la batterie lors de la réparation.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Réponse

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Réponse

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Réponse

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Réponse

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  17. Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :
    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes fixant le support de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 2,8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Réponse

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Réponse

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Réponse

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Réponse

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Réponse

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Réponse

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Réponse

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Réponse

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Réponse

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Réponse

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Réponse

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Réponse

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Réponse

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Réponse

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Réponse

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - Réponse

  18. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran. Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.
    • Retirez le support de la nappe d'écran.

    i didn’t observe the photo, i pried it from the side not realizing there’s a wire connection under it, i inadvertently also disconnected the wire too. best to grasp the display cable bracket from position pictured.

    Willliam Wixon - Réponse

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - Réponse

  19. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Utilisez une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra frontale de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Réponse

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Réponse

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Réponse

    For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

    Jean-François Schmitz - Réponse

  20. Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier. Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.
    • Déconnectez la nappe du tactile de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe du tactile, n'appuyez pas sur le milieu du connecteur. Appuyez sur un côté du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Appuyer au milieu risque de tordre le composant et d'endommager le tactile.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Réponse

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Réponse

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Réponse

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Réponse

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Réponse

  21. Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe. Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.
    • Avant d'effectuer cette étape, vérifiez que la batterie est déconnectée, puis déconnectez ou reconnectez la nappe.

    • Déconnectez la nappe des données d'écran de sa prise sur la carte mère en faisant levier.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Réponse

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Réponse

    My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?

    Martijn Vos -

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Réponse

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Réponse

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Réponse

  22. Retirez l'écran complet.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Réponse

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Réponse

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Réponse

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Réponse

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Réponse

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Réponse

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Réponse

  23. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher la caméra iSight de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  24. Retirez les deux vis Phillips suivantes sur le support de la caméra iSight :
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips suivantes sur le support de la caméra iSight :

    • Une vis de 1.6 mm

    • Une vis de 2.0 mm

    Remember to place the nfc bracket under the camera bracket properly before attaching the 2.0mm screw.

    Mikołaj Podjacki - Réponse

    Thank you - well pointed out!

    Laurie MacDonald - Réponse

    Ditto - I almost overlooked it. Thank you!

    Frank Diaz - Réponse

  25. Retirez le support de la caméra. Retirez le support de la caméra.
    • Retirez le support de la caméra.

  26. Insérez un spudger sur le côté de l'appareil photo, entre le boîtier arrière et le module de caméra. Soulevez doucement la caméra pour la pousser à sortir de son logement.
    • Insérez un spudger sur le côté de l'appareil photo, entre le boîtier arrière et le module de caméra.

    • Soulevez doucement la caméra pour la pousser à sortir de son logement.

  27. Retirez la caméra. Retirez la caméra.
    • Retirez la caméra.

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - Réponse

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - Réponse

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Faltaría el paso de retirar la parte metálica que se encuentra antes del vidrio del lente. Que método utiliza para retirarla?

    Nicolas Muller - Réponse

  28. Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.
    • Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.

    • Une certaine force est nécessaire lors de cette étape.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Réponse

  29. Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.

    • Lorsque vous remettez la carte SIM, veillez à ce qu'elle soit dans le bon sens par rapport au tiroir.

  30. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,3 mm fixant le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,3 mm fixant le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.

  31. Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs. Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.
    • Retirez le support du connecteur de la nappe des composants supérieurs.

  32. Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche : Deux vis de 1,5 mm
    • Dévissez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes, fixant l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche :

    • Deux vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 19 mm

    • Une vis de 2,0 mm

    When tightening the screws again, make sure the screw marked in green and yellow are tightened, it can cause distortions in Apple Pay and NFC functions

    Armin Hełmiński - Réponse

    I have difficulty removing the screw in green … is it a #000 or something else

    BABY RAS - Réponse

  33. Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche. Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche.
    • Retirez l'antenne Wi-Fi supérieure gauche.

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - Réponse

  34. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de gestion de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  35. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin supérieur droit de la carte mère.

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

  36. Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, déconnectez le câble d'antenne de sa prise dans le coin inférieur gauche de la carte mère.

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - Réponse

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - Réponse

  37. Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez l'extrémité plate de la spatule sous la nappe du connecteur de charge Lightning. Soulevez-le pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - Réponse

  38. Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère. Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère.
    • Soulevez délicatement le câble d'antenne pour le déloger des deux clips sur le côté droit de la carte mère.

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - Réponse

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - Réponse

  39. Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support NFC à la carte mère.
    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support NFC à la carte mère.

  40. Retirez le support NFC. Retirez le support NFC.
    • Retirez le support NFC.

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - Réponse

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - Réponse

    Does this also have to do with Airdrop?

    Richard Leknes - Réponse

  41. Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes : Une vis de 2,5 mm en haut de la carte mère
    • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes :

    • Une vis de 2,5 mm en haut de la carte mère

    • Une vis de 1,4 mm dans le rebord supérieur de la coque arrière

  42. Retirez le clip en plastique. Retirez le clip en plastique.
    • Retirez le clip en plastique.

  43. Retirez les trois dernières vis fixant la carte mère à la coque arrière :
    • Retirez les trois dernières vis fixant la carte mère à la coque arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,9 mm

    • Un écrou hexagonal de 2,5 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 1,8 mm

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - Réponse

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - Réponse

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found the same problem with the 2.5mm nut driver in my, non-iFixit, precision set. The nut is too shallow to engage with the hex socket because of the shape of the rounded edges at the mouth of the socket. Managed to overcome this by carefully re-engineering the socket with a diamond flat file ie filing it to remove the rounded edge and leave the hex opening flat and square. Worked perfectly after this.

    Laurie MacDonald - Réponse

    The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

    Ben -

    The pentalobe driver works perfect with the 2,5 hex nut. Much thanks for the tip: saved me lots of time since I didnt have the appropriate driver handy !

    Philippe PIOLAT - Réponse

  44. Insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la carte mère, entre la carte et le haut-parleur. Soulevez délicatement la carte mère hors de son logement à l'aide du médiator. Retirez la carte mère.
    • Insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la carte mère, entre la carte et le haut-parleur.

    • Soulevez délicatement la carte mère hors de son logement à l'aide du médiator.

    • Retirez la carte mère.

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - Réponse

    Thank you for the detailed instructions. They were very easy to follow. Hope it works; fingers grossed.

    Frank Diaz - Réponse

  45. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent le Taptic Engine en place. Retirez le Taptic Engine.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent le Taptic Engine en place.

    • Retirez le Taptic Engine.

  46. Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les pointes des bandes adhésives de la batterie sur le bord inférieur de la batterie. Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les pointes des bandes adhésives de la batterie sur le bord inférieur de la batterie. Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les pointes des bandes adhésives de la batterie sur le bord inférieur de la batterie.
    • Utilisez une pincette pour décoller les pointes des bandes adhésives de la batterie sur le bord inférieur de la batterie.

  47. Essayez de ne pas vriller les bandes pendant cette procédure – elles deviendraient très difficiles à manipuler et ne se redresseraient pas. Tirez une des bandes adhésives tout droit en direction du bas de l'iPhone. Pour de meilleurs résultats, tirez la bande à un angle de 60° ou moins.
    • Essayez de ne pas vriller les bandes pendant cette procédure – elles deviendraient très difficiles à manipuler et ne se redresseraient pas.

    • Tirez une des bandes adhésives tout droit en direction du bas de l'iPhone.

    • Pour de meilleurs résultats, tirez la bande à un angle de 60° ou moins.

    • La bande s'étend jusqu'à plusieurs fois sa longueur d'origine. Continuez à tirer progressivement, en saisissant la bande plus près de l'iPhone si nécessaire.

    • Continuez à tirer jusqu'à ce que la bande soit complètement enlevée.

    • Si les languettes adhésives de la batterie se cassent à tout moment du retrait, utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette émoussée pour récupérer la longueur restante de l'adhésif, puis continuez à tirer.

    • Si l'une des bandes adhésives se brise sous la batterie pendant cette procédure et ne peut pas être récupérée, retirez ce qui reste de la bande, puis passez à l'étape 48.

  48. Répétez l'étape précédente pour la deuxième bande adhésive. Maintenez la batterie enfoncée d'une main lorsque vous retirez la deuxième bande. La bande risque d'éjecter la batterie du téléphone, une fois décollée de la coque arrière.
    • Répétez l'étape précédente pour la deuxième bande adhésive.

    • Maintenez la batterie enfoncée d'une main lorsque vous retirez la deuxième bande. La bande risque d'éjecter la batterie du téléphone, une fois décollée de la coque arrière.

  49. Si vous avez réussi à retirer les trois bandes adhésives, passez à l'étape suivante. Sinon, vous devez encore retirer la batterie de la coque arrière. Préparez un iOpener et posez-le derrière la coque arrière, directement sur la batterie. Alternativement, vous pouvez appliquer de la chaleur à l'aide d'un pistolet à air chaud ou d'un sèche-cheveux.
    • Si vous avez réussi à retirer les trois bandes adhésives, passez à l'étape suivante. Sinon, vous devez encore retirer la batterie de la coque arrière.

    • Préparez un iOpener et posez-le derrière la coque arrière, directement sur la batterie. Alternativement, vous pouvez appliquer de la chaleur à l'aide d'un pistolet à air chaud ou d'un sèche-cheveux.

    • Après environ une minute, retournez le téléphone et utilisez une carte en plastique pour faire céder tout l'adhésif restant derrière la batterie.

  50. Retirez la batterie.
    • Retirez la batterie.

    • Lorsque vous installez la batterie, reportez-vous à ce tutoriel pour remplacer les bandes adhésives de votre batterie.

    Note for reassembling: reinstall the battery after the logic board is reinstalled, to avoid any missalignments of the battery

    michaelko - Réponse

  51. Retirez la seule vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support du flash. Retirez le support du flash.
    • Retirez la seule vis cruciforme de 1,3 mm fixant le support du flash.

    • Retirez le support du flash.

  52. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le flash de son emplacement dans la coque arrière. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le flash de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le flash de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.

  53. Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes : Deux vis de 2,5 mm dans le bord gauche de la coque arrière
    • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 2,5 mm dans le bord gauche de la coque arrière

    • Une vis #000 de 2,1 mm dans le bord gauche de la coque arrière

    • Deux vis de 2,1 mm dans le bord droit de la coque arrière

    • Si vous serrez trop fort ces vis lors du remontage, vos boutons d'alimentation et de volume risquent ne pas cliquer correctement. Vérifiez que chaque bouton fait bien clic avant de continuer le remontage.

    I notice these screws are different than all the othe Phillips screws, the top part by the head of the screws has no thread

    B. Jansen - Réponse

  54. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour séparer délicatement le microphone de la coque arrière. Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour séparer délicatement le microphone de la coque arrière.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour séparer délicatement le microphone de la coque arrière.

  55. Faites glisser un médiator entre la nappe des composants supérieurs et la coque arrière. Décollez délicatement la nappe de la coque arrière.
    • Faites glisser un médiator entre la nappe des composants supérieurs et la coque arrière.

    • Décollez délicatement la nappe de la coque arrière.

  56. Continuez à pousser le médiator sous la nappe jusqu'à ce qu'elle se soit complètement décollée de la coque arrière. Continuez à pousser le médiator sous la nappe jusqu'à ce qu'elle se soit complètement décollée de la coque arrière.
    • Continuez à pousser le médiator sous la nappe jusqu'à ce qu'elle se soit complètement décollée de la coque arrière.

  57. Retirez l'ensemble nappe des composants supérieurs.
    • Retirez l'ensemble nappe des composants supérieurs.

    When replacing this harness/flex, the mute switch is not supplies with the REQUIRED bracket. There is no way to securely attach the mute switch to the original mute bracket or to a replacement bracket. The supplied mute switch only (less bracket) makes this entire repair useless as there is no way to fasten the switch to a used or replacement bracket as it is all one assebmly. SOLUTION: purchase a flex with all metal parts attached to the flex. These are available from other suppliers. Why iFixit sells this one likely because it's cheaper but this repair using their bracketless mute switch is NOT possible.

    Jblack - Réponse

    A bummer that I discovered your comment after I tried and figured this out myself. This is really frustrating that iFixit does not warn one that the repair can’t work with the part they sell

    arnstefan - Réponse

    The guide has been updated to include how to transfer the mute switch from your old cable to the new one.

    The part iFixit sells is fully functional and should allow you to complete the repair. Sorry about the confusion!

    Arthur Shi - Réponse

    Where it was updated? People are saying about mute switch wich are attached to the metal part not plastic one. You can not do anything with it.

    radiogen - Réponse

    We added the step below this (step 57) to demonstrate how to remove the mute switch cover. As for the actual microswitch, the replacement part iFixit sells should have that installed on the metal bracket.

    Arthur Shi -

  58. Saisissez la barre métallique derrière l'un des deux boutons externes de contrôle du volume et retirez ce bouton de son emplacement dans la coque arrière. Répétez pour le deuxième bouton de contrôle du volume. Vérifiez l'orientation appropriée lors de la réinstallation des boutons. La barre métallique devrait basculer vers le bas, vers la coque arrière de l'iPhone.
    • Saisissez la barre métallique derrière l'un des deux boutons externes de contrôle du volume et retirez ce bouton de son emplacement dans la coque arrière.

    • Répétez pour le deuxième bouton de contrôle du volume.

    • Vérifiez l'orientation appropriée lors de la réinstallation des boutons. La barre métallique devrait basculer vers le bas, vers la coque arrière de l'iPhone.

    I changed the backcover and the buttons. The new buttons had no little round metal knobs in the middle. If these knobs are missing, you can't use the switches. I removed the metal knobs carefully with a scalpel and glued them to the new buttons.

    Michael - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

31 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Evan Noronha

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such a heavy job for only changing these parts... thanks for the guides

Dhimas Ari Pamungkas - Réponse

I am building my own phone of just parts from China, but realised now that I don't have the metal rings to push the button back (I don't mean the metal spacers). I am talking about the part on the last step.. Does anyone know where to order this kinda object, because I cannot find this object anywhere

Berk - Réponse

i have also built my own iphone 6s you can buy an iphone 6s button set online for quite cheap this will usally come with the metal clicks

Kade Baitrum -

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