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Introduction

Si vous captez mal en réseau Wi-Fi, vous devrez sans doute remplacer l'antenne Wi-Fi ou le câble d'interconnexion sur la carte mère.

Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le câble d'interconnexion et redonner du réseau Wi-Fi à votre téléphone.

  1. Avant de désassembler votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.
    • Avant de désassembler votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

    When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

    Blair Tryba - Réponse

    what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

    kristian686 -

    Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

    Howard Bales - Réponse

    Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

    For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

    On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

    Maarten Vergauwen -

    Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.

    Linda Chandler -

    I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

    Bailey Wilson - Réponse

    Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

    Sam Goldheart -

    See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

    Kenneth Hilstan -

    I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

    socratesmens - Réponse

    The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

    1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

    2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

    I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

    Gary Long - Réponse

    I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

    Matt D - Réponse

    Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

    “We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

    What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

    Brice - Réponse

    Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

    William Miller - Réponse

    I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

    I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

    If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

    Megan Telliano - Réponse

    I agree. The Magnetic Project Mat makes your project incredibly easier and keeps your screws/parts organized. Here is the link for anyone interested:

    Magnetic Project Mat

    Cooper -

    These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

    Jennifer Porter - Réponse

  2. Les trois prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui effectuent souvent des réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, sautez ces trois étapes et suivez l'autre méthode.
    • Les trois prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui effectuent souvent des réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, sautez ces trois étapes et suivez l'autre méthode.

    • Si la jauge de profondeur en plastique est attachée au milieu de l'iSclack, retirez-la, elle n'est pas nécessaire pour les iPhone de grande taille tel que l'iPhone 6.

    • Serrez les poignées pour ouvrir les mâchoires avec les ventouses.

    There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

    Lisa Klitses - Réponse

    Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

    Owen -

    I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

    fiftysomething - Réponse

  3. Posez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses. Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home sans pourtant le couvrir.
    • Posez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses.

    • Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home sans pourtant le couvrir.

    • Ouvrez les poignées pour fermer les ventouses. Centrez et exercez une pression sur les ventouses.

  4. Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière. Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.
    • Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.

    • Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

    • Décollez les deux ventouses de votre iPhone.

    • Sautez les trois prochaines étapes et passez à l'étape 8.

    The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

    Tim Dougherty - Réponse

    It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

    marco bigoni - Réponse

    Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

    Fratelli '85 - Réponse

    Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

    Richard W - Réponse

    Don’t love that, fan.

    That ISclack cost 25 bucks.

    Anwar Hossain (GuestAccount1) - Réponse

  5. Si vous ne disposez pas d'iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever la vitre :
    • Si vous ne disposez pas d'iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever la vitre :

    • Posez une ventouse sur la vitre, juste au dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère bien.

    This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

    Erik Madsen - Réponse

    You can put clear tape over it. it works.

    Owen -

    Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

    Joanna - Réponse

    Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

    -Tom

    tombuy - Réponse

    How do you know Tom>

    Shawn - Réponse

  6. Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.
    • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique, commencez à pousser le boîtier délicatement vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

    • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra probablement utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique pour libérer l'écran.

    Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

    lauren carroll - Réponse

    Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

    Tobias - Réponse

    Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

    Dion Sosa - Réponse

    That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

    Megan Telliano -

    Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

    youmingc - Réponse

    Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

    Adam - Réponse

    The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

    Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

    Luke Man - Réponse

    I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

    Alan Derrick - Réponse

    Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

    scottrell - Réponse

  7. Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse. Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.
    • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

    • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

  8. Ouvrez l'iPhone en soulevant la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière. Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran créent une charnière partielle. Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.
    • Ouvrez l'iPhone en soulevant la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

    • Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran créent une charnière partielle.

    • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

    It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

    ethanlust - Réponse

    Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

    Albert -

    Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

    Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

    SAS - Réponse

    This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

    Bruce Fournier - Réponse

    My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

    Tony Chicoine - Réponse

    same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

    Andrea Andreoli - Réponse

    Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

    Adam Carl - Réponse

    Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

    The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

    Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

    Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

    Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

    Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

    nigel - Réponse

  9. Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez. A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner. Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur le nappes.
    • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez.

    • A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner.

    • Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur le nappes.

    A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

    Ryan - Réponse

    I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

    dcommins - Réponse

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Réponse

    I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

    bobcloninger - Réponse

    If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

    Larry House - Réponse

    Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

    Sherman Homan - Réponse

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

    todd adelman - Réponse

    I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

    brian - Réponse

    Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

    smahar - Réponse

    Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

    Sam Goldheart -

  10. Retirez les vis cruciformes 00 suivantes du cache de connecteur de la batterie :
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes 00 suivantes du cache de connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    • Une vis de 3,2 mm

    #000 needed here

    David Pobuda - Réponse

    ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

    Cory Berends -

    Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

    kupies2011 - Réponse

    With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

    Wilson Styres - Réponse

    Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

    smcgreg - Réponse

    My phone was missing this screw also!

    Gail Starr -

    Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

    smcgreg - Réponse

    When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

    Juan Monge - Réponse

    I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

    Cavell Blood -

    Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

    Dan Solovay - Réponse

    None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

    Elaine Eason - Réponse

    I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

    Jameison Martin - Réponse

    I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

    Brian Adams - Réponse

    Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

    Matthijs Rog - Réponse

    Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

    Priscilla Cheng - Réponse

    When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

    dhcohen67 - Réponse

    why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

    i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

    Michael Amara - Réponse

    I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

    Tung-wei Lin - Réponse

    My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

    Alastair Lack - Réponse

    So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

    My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

    What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

    John Palaganas - Réponse

    The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

    Eric Craumer - Réponse

    Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

    Jimmy Doi - Réponse

    The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    @michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu

    Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

    Michael Pesenti - Réponse

    I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

    Matt - Réponse

    Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

    Trish - Réponse

    You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

    Jennifer Porter - Réponse

    I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

    I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

    GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

    Thank you iFixit and commentators

    Paul Austin - Réponse

    Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

    @Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

    povman - Réponse

  11. Retirez le cache métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le cache métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

    mjcoughlin70 - Réponse

    The YouTube video could use an update, but unfortunately YouTube does not allow that. Always disconnect the battery before disassembling anything else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

    Bobby Slone - Réponse

  12. A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur de batterie pour le soulever de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
    • A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur de batterie pour le soulever de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à ne faire levier que sur le connecteur de batterie et non pas sur sa prise sur la carte mère. Si vous faites levier sur la prise, vous risquez de casser le connecteur entier.

    I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

    Tonima Chaudhury - Réponse

    I wish I had done that.

    Gail Starr -

    Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

    Andy Milne -

    Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

    Tom Long -

    In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

    Perrin Haley -

    I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

    youmingc - Réponse

    I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

    jaksbackpack - Réponse

    Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

    mitch Toler - Réponse

    You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

    Reza I. Permana -

    Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

    As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

    Russ Levey - Réponse

    It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

    Udo Schuehle - Réponse

    I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

    Garret Gray - Réponse

    I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

    Garret Gray - Réponse

    The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

    When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

    Tom Rohrer -

    I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

    Kevin Harvey -

    I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

    thomasjmaclean - Réponse

    I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

    Sare - Réponse

    It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

    Alex Kosmider - Réponse

    Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

    Alex Kosmider -

    For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

    lowestseries - Réponse

    Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

    cambo.robertson - Réponse

    Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

    What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

    Juan - Réponse

    I can’t seem to get the battery connector to connect to the logic board. Is there some reason it doesn’t click or do something to hold it in place before the battery connector bracket?

    Leif Rambjor - Réponse

    @lrambjor No special technique; just line it up and press down, and it should snap into place. Make sure there’s no dirt/debris in the socket; give it a blast with some compressed air if needed. And make sure you’re not trying to jam an iPhone 6s battery into an iPhone 6 (or vice versa)—they aren’t compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

    What is the reason

    juniour Bowens - Réponse

  13. Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes qui maintiennent le cache  de la nappe d'écran :
    • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 1,7 mm

    • Une vis de 3,1 mm

    • Si ces vis sont placées au mauvais endroit lorsque vous remontez votre appareil, vous risquez de causer des dommages irréversibles à la carte mère de votre iPhone.

    Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

    damianodessgillett - Réponse

    I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

    griffn - Réponse

    I seriously draw a picture of the part, and mark where the screws belong, then place the screw on its location on the drawing! I so don’t want to screw it up(no pun intended)

    lisa OBrien -

    Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

    kev - Réponse

    I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

    adlerpe - Réponse

    i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

    girlsrock742 - Réponse

    @girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

    # Be more specific about what your issue is.

    # Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

    Good luck!

    Nate Schley - Réponse

    Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

    Carol N -

    Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

    Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

    Nate Schley - Réponse

    It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

    cruz.giovanni - Réponse

    I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

    Patric - Réponse

    Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

    Michael Aguilera - Réponse

    It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

    Adam - Réponse

    Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

    nzf - Réponse

    Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

    Sare -

    I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

    I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

    Matt Whiteley - Réponse

    There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

    arunhn - Réponse

    100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

    Dormouse -

    I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

    Joel Horie - Réponse

    I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

    kevin hekman - Réponse

    I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

    Billy Bob Baler - Réponse

    Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

    Tanya Lyn Willard - Réponse

    You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

    June Beltran -

    Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

    smahar -

    I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

    Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

    June Beltran - Réponse

    I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

    Walter White - Réponse

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

    J Marr - Réponse

    Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

    Mc Floyd -

    It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

    jacobdanderson -

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Réponse

    How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

    predylindsay - Réponse

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery and there is no Step 33. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

    BW Lee - Réponse

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

    MClare - Réponse

    I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

    Heather Best - Réponse

    Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

    Peter - Réponse

    I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

    Patrick Reed - Réponse

    You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

    When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

    You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

    ACMT - 4 years.

    jonbessom - Réponse

    I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

    Michael Kirkpatrick - Réponse

    There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

    Naresh Annepu - Réponse

    If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

    If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

    Eric Craumer - Réponse

    Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

    L He - Réponse

    Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

    Sherman Homan - Réponse

    I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

    Sare - Réponse

    @sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

    That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

    Sare - Réponse

    well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

    philbjh - Réponse

    For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

    lowestseries - Réponse

    Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

    The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

    Indiana Jones - Réponse

    Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

    d.rando90 - Réponse

    i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

    Regan Murray - Réponse

    I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

    AndyKao - Réponse

    Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Réponse

    The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for your reply

    even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Réponse

    Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

    Hannah Hyun - Réponse

    Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

    br_flavio - Réponse

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  15. Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.
    • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.

    I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

    Joan Fitzgerald - Réponse

  16. Lors des quatre étapes suivantes, veillez à ne faire levier que sur les nappes des connecteurs, et non pas sur leurs prises sur la carte mère. A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra avant et de la nappe de capteur.
    • Lors des quatre étapes suivantes, veillez à ne faire levier que sur les nappes des connecteurs, et non pas sur leurs prises sur la carte mère.

    • A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra avant et de la nappe de capteur.

    I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

    douglas hughes - Réponse

    Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

    mahoffman - Réponse

    I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

    alyssaavaldezz - Réponse

    Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

    Veronica del Rio -

    regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

    David Panak - Réponse

    This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

    gybeho -

    Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

    lee moran - Réponse

    my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

    andrew midgett - Réponse

    Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

    gybeho - Réponse

    "gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

    cruz.giovanni - Réponse

    it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

    Dakota Navarrete - Réponse

    I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

    Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

    PG McLaughlin - Réponse

    Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

    PG McLaughlin - Réponse

    Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

    William Breen - Réponse

    +1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

    drpotter -

    For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

    Chet Seidel - Réponse

    I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

    Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

    Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

    Pitt Monqui - Réponse

    Please how much is the battery if converted into Ghana cedis?

    Pappy Joe - Réponse

    1 Ghanaian Cedi equals $0.19 United States Dollar. Therefore, the $30 USD iPhone battery kit equals 161.04 Ghanaian Cedi.

    Don Lawton -

  17. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.

    Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

    Gracias.

    Berta fernandez - Réponse

    I have the same problem. The phone turns on when I disconnect the home button cable, but turns off some seconds after I reconnect it. Does anybody have a solution?

    Tim Wende -

  18. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran. Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.

    • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

    copykatt - Réponse

    My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

    Gabriel Hirata - Réponse

    Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

    William Mullan - Réponse

    When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

    Christopher - Réponse

    NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

    taylor sparks - Réponse

    Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

    Dave - Réponse

    If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

    grjos - Réponse

    If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

    Andrew Hill - Réponse

    what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

    Daniel Murcia - Réponse

    what if the batery was not disconnected?

    Sergio Midence - Réponse

    Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

    Trish - Réponse

    Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

    Cyndi - Réponse

  19. Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour déconnecter la nappe de gestion du tactile. Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe de l'écran, n'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur. Appuyez d'abord sur un des côtés du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Si vous appuyez au milieu, vous risquez de plier le connecteur et d'endommager l'écran.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour déconnecter la nappe de gestion du tactile.

    • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe de l'écran, n'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur. Appuyez d'abord sur un des côtés du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Si vous appuyez au milieu, vous risquez de plier le connecteur et d'endommager l'écran.

    Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

    griffn - Réponse

    i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

    awr - Réponse

    How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

    falken1337 - Réponse

    Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

    Bailey Duncan - Réponse

    This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

    Keith Mullins - Réponse

    So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

    After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

    Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

    Jonathan Rivera - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

    grjos - Réponse

    I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

    Charlotte - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

    Simon Tengstrand -

    Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

    Ume Nishikino - Réponse

    My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

    Sissy -

    I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

    Heywoz - Réponse

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

    Will - Réponse

    I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

    Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

    Clint Casanova - Réponse

    This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

    Pau - Réponse

    I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

    Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

    If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

    Dom Gernon - Réponse

  20. Détachez l'écran du boitier arrière.
    • Détachez l'écran du boitier arrière.

    Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

    Joeri Boersen - Réponse

    Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Réponse

    Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

    Neos Kosmos - Réponse

    It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

    Roger - Réponse

  21. Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.
    • Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM.

    • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.

    • Une certaine force est nécessaire lors de cette étape.

    Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

    Perrin Haley - Réponse

    If you don’t have something small enough to open it, you can use the lever when the screen is off.

    Lucas Rowlands -

    I actually removed the simcard as the first step because I didn’t want to risk fumbling with an open phone (as someone previously mentioned)

    twcheng93 - Réponse

  22. Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.

    • Lorsque vous remettez la carte SIM, veillez à ce qu'elle soit dans le bon sens par rapport au tiroir.

    After reassembly phone would not detect SIM Card.

    During repair while components were out of phone I used that opportunity to straighten the back case that was bent. While straightening the back case I bent the thin edge of the back case by the SIM Card slot. SIM Card would click into place and seemed to make a good connection but the phone would not detect the SIM Card. After really straightening the back case by the SIM Card slot almost back to cherry the phone would now detect the SIM Card. The tray has to fit really flush with the case.

    johncrowley111 - Réponse

    My flashlight has stopped working altogether. It was intermittent for a while. I believe them to be original. When I try to use the flash on my camera app, it flashes weakly but not enough do really help. Any chance the flex went bad or is there a logic board issue? My other two iphones with the same apps and the same updates are not having any problems.

    Jason Stein - Réponse

  23. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur.

    How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

    Carter Christie - Réponse

    Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

    paulflicker - Réponse

    If the foam piece on top comes off (which it probably will), replace with a tiny piece of electrical tape to maintain electrical isolation.

    Colin Lacey - Réponse

  24. Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

    ronjon40 - Réponse

    ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

    Jordan Leong - Réponse

    Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

    Lars Andersson - Réponse

    Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

    Christa -

    I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

    Trent Warner - Réponse

    Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

    Alexander Kvasov -

    (I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

    I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

    I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

    In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

    Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

    Tug - Réponse

    I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

    Bill - Réponse

    I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

    Bill - Réponse

    Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

    Helge Fahrnberger - Réponse

    Seconded. After a while of trying, I decided to do this and it came off instantly.

    Jasper Holden -

    What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

    kris - Réponse

    I second this… What antenna is this? Main celular radio? BT? so what is the flex antenna for then???

    Christopher Eason -

    If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

    jacobdanderson - Réponse

    I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(

    It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…

    Julien-Pierre - Réponse

    i broke this cable. Lol.

    until now “no service”. haha

    Aiman Jamali - Réponse

    Ripped off the little black foam on top of it.

    On reassembly i simply put the foam on top of the connector. The process was working smoothly at first, but the day after tomorrow i have to open my iPhone 6 again because found it in “No Service” state and cannot find wifi :( !!!

    I tried to once again assemble signal connector, yet with a full step from assembly to reassembly while cleaned the dust inside.

    Thank goodness it worked after all the process. Whew

    Kicky Pelealu - Réponse

    This morning I woke up with the same issues. No Service and couldn’t find any wifi signal.

    And the unwanted thing happened, when trying to pry that small gold cable …… It’s plugged out together with it’s coupling on hte logic board LOL

    Now that old iPhone 6 can’t come back to life. Sad

    Kicky Pelealu -

    %#*@! I left the antenna cable under the logic board!!! Well, down I go again.. LOL

    Alon Smokes - Réponse

    Broke this one when I left under board. Any instructions how to replace it? And what part is it to buy?

    Diego C - Réponse

  25. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes du cache supérieur de la nappe :
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes du cache supérieur de la nappe :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

    Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

    Suhaib Khalid - Réponse

    Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  26. Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe. Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe.
    • Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe.

  27. Lorsque vous débranchez les connecteurs suivants, essayez de ne soulever que les connecteurs et pas la prise située sur la carte mère. Vous risquez sinon de l'endommager. Utilisez l'embout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe du bouton power. Déconnectez la nappe des boutons de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Lorsque vous débranchez les connecteurs suivants, essayez de ne soulever que les connecteurs et pas la prise située sur la carte mère. Vous risquez sinon de l'endommager.

    • Utilisez l'embout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe du bouton power.

    • Déconnectez la nappe des boutons de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    This is the most challenging piece in wrapping up the repair. any suggestions, anyone?

    Adrian V - Réponse

    I found that when reconnecting the smaller connector, sliding it from the top of the phone towards the battery was the easiest way to get it aligned.

    Colin Lacey - Réponse

    if permenant damaged is caused what should one do next?

    Mohammed Essa Mustapha - Réponse

    what did you do? I think i mess up

    David oneik -

  28. Retirez ensuite les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes de l'antenne Wi-Fi :
    • Retirez ensuite les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes de l'antenne Wi-Fi :

    • Une vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 1,4 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,1 mm

    unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

    David Craig - Réponse

    I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

    Renato Caicedo - Réponse

    The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

    John Galvin - Réponse

    I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

    Mareque Ireland - Réponse

    Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.

    Chris Reimer - Réponse

    The yellow and orange circles on the left must be inverted,

    Guilly A - Réponse

    Couldn’t remove 1.5mm screw. Looks like there is a problem with it.

    Deimos - Réponse

    Another procedure says this is the cellular antenna

    B. Jansen - Réponse

    Weil ich sehr schlechten WLAN- und Bluetoothempfang habe, wollte ich die Antenne tauschen. Nachdem ich alles wieder zusammengebaut hatte, wurde der Empfang noch schlechter.

    Mir fiel auf, dass sich die Scheibe unter der 1.4 Schraube gelöst hat. Deshalb vermute ich den schlechten Empfang. Kann man diese Verbindungsstelle zur WLAN-Antenne löten?

    Mathay Aydin - Réponse

  29. Retirez l'antenne WiFi de l'iPhone. Faites attention de ne toucher aucun point de contact métal-métal avec vos doigts nus. Utilisez une pincette ou des gants.  Les empreintes graisseuses de nos doigts peuvent nuire à la connectivité. Si vous touchez un de ces composants, lavez-le avez un nettoyant-dégraissant comme le windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique  avant de remonter l'appareil.
    • Retirez l'antenne WiFi de l'iPhone.

    • Faites attention de ne toucher aucun point de contact métal-métal avec vos doigts nus. Utilisez une pincette ou des gants. Les empreintes graisseuses de nos doigts peuvent nuire à la connectivité. Si vous touchez un de ces composants, lavez-le avez un nettoyant-dégraissant comme le windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique avant de remonter l'appareil.

  30. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm de la fixation de mise à la terre.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm de la fixation de mise à la terre.

    I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

    facebook - Réponse

    These two little screws are in pretty tight.

    Matt Lobban - Réponse

    I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

    Kayleigh Steele - Réponse

    It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

    Dormouse - Réponse

    I CANNOT get these screws out!

    Becky n - Réponse

  31. Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre. Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre.
    • Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre.

  32. Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes qui retiennent la fixation de la carte mère. Une vis de 2,6 mm
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes qui retiennent la fixation de la carte mère.

    • Une vis de 2,6 mm

    • Une vis de 1,3 mm vissée sur le bord supérieur du châssis de l'iPhone.

    Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

    sem schilder - Réponse

    I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

    Daniel Villanis -

    I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

    Anand Parthasarathy - Réponse

    Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

    Anand Parthasarathy -

    I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

    Gar Galen - Réponse

    I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

    Kelsey Chesnut -

    Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

    Perrin Haley -

    Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

    And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

    Wusels -

    I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

    Joanna Kastelik - Réponse

    Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

    Dormouse - Réponse

    To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

    This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

    Dormouse -

    I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

    Joey Imperatori - Réponse

    Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

    Tessa Baker - Réponse

    i broke this part, under which name can i find it online?

    bowoo king - Réponse

  33. Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère. Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère.
    • Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère.

    The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

    Doug Whyte - Réponse

    Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

    Anand Parthasarathy - Réponse

    I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

    Neel Nani - Réponse

    I discovered this bracket was broken in the middle when i removed it. I continued the tear down and replace the antena. It seens that it did not solve my GPS issue… could this angle bracket be the reason that GPS stopped working? Is this part available to sell?

    Tuoa lafay - Réponse

  34. Retirez l'unique vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm qui assure la connexion de l'antenne sur la carte mère.
    • Retirez l'unique vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm qui assure la connexion de l'antenne sur la carte mère.

    Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

    Christian Abreu - Réponse

    If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

    Jas - Réponse

    This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

    Kyle Sullivan - Réponse

    I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

    ttilberg - Réponse

    The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

    Renan Sesti - Réponse

    このアンテナインターコネクトケーブルとは何の部品ですか??

    タカヒロ - Réponse

  35. Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère. Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère.

    Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

    Iain York - Réponse

    Soo easy to forget, and I still don’t know how to put this back on. I’ve done several housing swaps on newer phones and this is so confusing!

    Ryan Scott -

    This is part no. 00095-AF.

    brendon - Réponse

  36. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère. Faites attention de ne soulever que le connecteur et non la prise sur laquelle il est branché au risque d'endommager la carte mère. Éloignez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Faites attention de ne soulever que le connecteur et non la prise sur laquelle il est branché au risque d'endommager la carte mère.

    • Éloignez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.

    I found using the pointy end of the spudger was better to use here.

    lisa OBrien - Réponse

    I found the hooked end of a hooked spudger was the only thing that worked for me.

    Sherman Eddy - Réponse

    Prying on the side with the pointy end of a pair of tweezers works fine too.

    Thomas Hayes - Réponse

  37. Retirez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent la carte mère au boîtier arrière :
    • Retirez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent la carte mère au boîtier arrière :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 1,9 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 2,3 mm

    • Le mieux est de dévisser les vis d'entretoise à l'aide d'un embout pour vis d'entretoise et d'un manche du tournevis.

    • Un petit tournevis plat peut aussi faire l'affaire, mais veillez à ce qu'il ne glisse pas et n'endommage pas les composants qui se trouvent autour.

    The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

    Matthew Williams - Réponse

    I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

    paulflicker - Réponse

    Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

    Angelo Mastrella -

    Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

    Mathieu Paquette - Réponse

    Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

    Kees Vermeulen - Réponse

    I used the battery bracket to unscrew the standoff screw

    douira - Réponse

    Genius right here. The short, flat part slides right in!

    Wylie Sawyer -

    1,5 flat from the Pro Tech Toolkit made it…, thanks to Angelo

    Hans - Réponse

    The tool to remove this part does not come in the ifixIt New part Toolkit for this tutorial. That was an issue.

    Thiago Santos Sobrinho - Réponse

    Sorry, it actually does. But it comes inside the new part package, apart from the other tools. I only opened it in the last step.

    Thiago Santos Sobrinho - Réponse

    I used a pair of tweezers, A bit risky, just be careful. Line it up with the grooves and turn slowly

    Samuel Strong - Réponse

    I used screw driver for eyeglasses….

    lisa OBrien - Réponse

    I used screw driver for eyeglasses….

    lisa OBrien - Réponse

    I used the flat side of the Spudger for this and it worked completely fine

    berlingdavid - Réponse

  38. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever légèrement le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère, juste assez pour pouvoir le saisir avec vos doigts. Insérez le spudger au niveau de la protection métallique sous le tiroir de la carte SIM pour éviter d'endommager une puce ou une prise.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever légèrement le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère, juste assez pour pouvoir le saisir avec vos doigts.

    • Insérez le spudger au niveau de la protection métallique sous le tiroir de la carte SIM pour éviter d'endommager une puce ou une prise.

    Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

    Carter Christie - Réponse

    Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

    Jeffrey Dennis - Réponse

  39. Soulevez la carte mère en tenant l'extrémité du connecteur de batterie et sortez-la du boîtier arrière. Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère. Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère.
    • Soulevez la carte mère en tenant l'extrémité du connecteur de batterie et sortez-la du boîtier arrière.

    • Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère.

    I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

    Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

    If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

    Lars Andersson - Réponse

    good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

    Christa -

    5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

    swayanshu panda - Réponse

    When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.

    MEHMET YILDIZ - Réponse

    When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.

    MEHMET YILDIZ - Réponse

    6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

    Christa - Réponse

    Don’t forget the the antenna interconnect cable, also in the top right, should be above the board.

    Ira Jacobs -

    What happened to the 00095-A part? Did it just disappear?

    Ryan Scott - Réponse

  40. Retournez la carte mère pour faire apparaître l'antenne qui se trouve derrière. Déconnectez les quatre connecteurs coaxiaux de la carte mère et retirez le câble d'antenne de la carte mère.
    • Retournez la carte mère pour faire apparaître l'antenne qui se trouve derrière.

    • Déconnectez les quatre connecteurs coaxiaux de la carte mère et retirez le câble d'antenne de la carte mère.

    • Veillez à ne toucher aucun contact métal sur métal avec vos doigts nus – utilisez une pincette ou mettez des gants. Le sébum de vos doigts peut causer des problèmes de connectivité. Si jamais vous touchez un des composants, nettoyez-le avec un dégraissant comme du windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique avant de remonter votre iPhone.

    I broke one of the coax connectors connecting the antenna flex cable to the logicboard.

    Any idea of the part number and where I can find it?

    Remy - Réponse

    Exact same thing happened to me. The connector on the main board came right off when I tried to disconnect the F antenna. I don’t micro solder so I assume my phone is borked and un-repairable.

    Brad Engleking - Réponse

    Crap, got to this step only to discover that one of the connectors on the existing cable was already broken.

    barreg - Réponse

    I broke two of the connectors on the existing antenna cable, but the connectors on the board remained intact. The new cable attached with no problem for me.

    dv30fps - Réponse

    same problem for me, i broke one of the coax connectors on the logicboard. What can i do about it anyone?

    Levent Baysak - Réponse

    The connectors can be replaced pretty easily with the right equipment, but it’s not a DIY repair. You’ll want to find a repair shop that does board-level repairs (microsoldering).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement flex cable came with a little bit of blue film over what looks like the antenna patch with no notes on whether to remove it or not. From all the pictures (and the old antenna that doesn’t have it) it looks like it should be removed, but it would be useful to have a note about it either with the part or these instructions.

    lindensmith - Réponse

    yep, same question. I’m leaving it?

    matt gladdek -

    Same question. Do I leave the blue bit or remove the blue bit?

    Daren luc Sasges -

    I removed the blue film, and the repair worked fine.

    Reece Yang -

    And to add another comment on dealing with the connectors - I found getting the tiny coaxes aligned and mated about the hardest part of this, since I wanted to be careful with the logic board and it takes some force to mate the connectors. It turned out that supporting the free part of the board under each connector with the flat of one spudger while pressing on the connector with a second spudger worked well. Starting with the furthest out connector to the right in the picture also helped with keeping it aligned while I did each of the next connectors.

    lindensmith - Réponse

    Took a little focus and frustration, but this is the technique that worked for me. Getting the first one on is by far the hardest to take it slow and easy. After that the others line up with a lot less trouble.

    Wylie Sawyer -

    When disconnecting the antenna, one of the coax connectors popped right off the logic board (and remained sticking to the antenna), even though I was pretty careful how much force I was applying with the spudger (the antenna disconnected from the remaining three coax connectors just fine). I suspect my GPS issues (which began after I dropped my phone on a hard floor) were due to the soldering of this connector having loosened, rather than an issue with the antenna itself.

    Martin Fuhrer - Réponse

    I found a shop that performs micro-soldering repairs (Case Mogul in Calgary), and they reattached the coax connector. GPS is fully restored (and WiFi reception is much improved).

    When performing this step it may be a good idea to double check that the coax connectors are still firmly attached to the logic board; if not there is a chance that the problem lies in the coax connector rather than the antenna flex cable (though a new flex cable can’t hurt).

    Martin Fuhrer -

    I put two plastic gift cards underneath the arm that the antenna attaches to. Then used a flat spudger/screwdriver to support the antenna while i lined it up. Then used the plastic spudger to snap the contacts into place. This was definitely the hardest part.

    William Zane - Réponse

    When removing the old antenna, it is much safer to gently pry the coax connectors up instead of using a pair of tweezers as implied by the photo. When connecting the new antenna, connect the rightmost connector, and then the leftmost connector. Then the two connectors in the middle will fall into place easily. As for the blue film, I left it on.

    Sherman Eddy - Réponse

    Does the antenna have a foam insulator on the back? I have removed and rebuilt my phone to try and fix the no service problem (that started all of a sudden, no shocks, drops or other).

    It would seem that there is a space for a foam insulator… but I can’t find any reference photos

    Christopher Eason - Réponse

Conclusion

Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, il se peut que vous ayez besoin de transférer certains composants ou d'les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant l'installation.

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.

La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic.

329 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Sam Goldheart

Membre depuis le 18/10/2012

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543 tutoriels rédigés

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131 commentaires

Great tutorial. Gps, bluetooth and wifi working again 100% for less than 2 quid. Thanks

Andres - Réponse

Great Guide, GPS Antenna and WIFI antenna replaced!!! a little sweat... but i did it

Miguel Cartagenova - Réponse

Hi,

Where are the GPS antenna and the GPS chip please ?

Thks

ccTEST -

This part and replacement guide saved my iPhone. I thought the phone was just getting old and on its way out since the bluetooth and gps were incredibly awful. Bluetooth only worked within direct line of sight within one foot, and gps had stopped working almost completely. It took some time to perform this repair, but I following the guide carefully and patiently fixed the problem completely. This part and guide worked perfectly. Thank you very much ifixit!

Joseph Engbert - Réponse

EXCELLENT Instructions! 1:15 first time. Worked great, saved me the cost of a new phone. The "genius bar" said it couldn't be fixed, talk about self serving "you will have to buy a new phone!"

KEY GUIDANCE

0) Be careful when taking the front off, I snapped off one of two pieces near the lightening connector!

1) Print out the instructions (yes its a lot of pages, but trust me)

2) As you take off screws and pieces tape them to the instructions where they go

3) YOU will thank me later.

If I had not done this I think it would have been twice as long, and likely made mistakes and perhaps damaged something with the wrong length screw. I kept like screws together under one piece of tape, next to each color indicator.

rtotah67 - Réponse

Thank you man!

It was really the cleverest advise!

Kirill Kormiltsev -

Awesome instructions - especially the "the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on." part. The last time I had my phone apart I had that exact problem and it ended up costing me £50 to get it fixed along with what turned out to be a load of BS from the guy who fixed it. I had the same problem again this time but after reading that little gem I fixed it myself. The rest of the procedure was very well documented and simple (if fiddly) to follow. I drew some boxes on paper and lablelled them in relation to the sections, then put the screws in each section as I went.

Thank you for saving me a lot of money - 10/10

Mike Hughes - Réponse

Agreed. Same here. Was tricky to get that one connector to stay but with knowledge of this I was able to quickly fix.

Daniel Hughes -

I had an issue with my iPhone with poor WiFi reception and most of the time couldn't connect to WiFi at all. If the WiFi signal from a router was strong, that was the only time I could connect. The Apple store ran their diagnostics and told me there was no fault detected and the option was to pay $429 AUD for a replacement phone so I did some fault finding myself. After reinstalling the firmware through a DFU restore and reinstalling the software to rule out both those contenders it was pretty certain it was a hardware issue.

I replaced the WiFi antenna and also the antenna flex cable while I was in there. The issue is resolved and phone is functioning perfectly. I cannot say which part solved the issue but figured it was worth changing both out at the same time. The repair guide was spot on and super easy to follow, parts supplied from iFIXIT were good quality and did the job. Overall coast was just over $50 AUD including tools and shipping. Thank you!

tooeasy - Réponse

Thank you very much for this excellent guide. Worked a charm. Also, the tip to print out these instructions and tape the parts and screws to the steps is well worth doing. Thanks again.

Caroline McCarthy - Réponse

This guide is amazing! Thought I was going to have to give in and buy a new phone, but found this thread and decided to give it a shot. I've never done anything like this before but was able to fix the problem (non-working/spotty GPS, wifi, and bluetooth) on my first try! I would definitely suggest creating a grid with each step on a piece of paper and putting/taping the screws and parts down to keep track of everything. The results were great! My GPS works again, the bluetooth signal reaches across the house, and my phone is picking up wifi networks again. Thanks for saving me a boatload of money - it feels wonderful to breath new life into my (only 2-year old) phone!!!

Kelsey Chesnut - Réponse

A great guide! However did not fix my greyed put wifi problem. Any other suggestions? Factory reset?

Abbie - Réponse

Abbie: If it's a greyed out wifi symbol issue, my understanding is that it's probably the wifi card / board itself, not the antenna cable.

Andy - Réponse

Tolle Anleitung!

Hat alles super geklappt und wlan/bt/GPS funktionieren wieder einwandfrei!

Danke!!

MrDKing1994 - Réponse

3 1/2 hours , left some connectors under the logic board and so had to disassemble again, nightmare with the flat head screw and managed to lose 2 screws! one from the cable bracket and one to secure the logic board. Amazed when it turned on and full wifi /gps again! Amazing instructions - thanks !!

Ryan Johnson - Réponse

Thank you very much my GPS could no longer locate my position and when I got this done its working good as new. Knocked it out in 45 mins!

David Bernal - Réponse

This fixed my problem with the GPS being completely useless and the 2,4GHz wifi being sketchy. Fantastic! The repair took me an hour - including loosing and relocating one of the very smallest 1.2mm screws on the floor. I taped the screws to a piece of paper and wrote the corresponding step number next to it, which made reassembly very easy.

nicholas_ransome - Réponse

The first sign of trouble on my phone was gps not working , then I noticed poor WiFi and Bluetooth range. I followed the steps for this repair - I think two of the connectors on the antenna flex had just popped off, but I replaced it anyway as I had bought the part (under £2 from replacebase.co.uk). Now gps, WiFi and Bluetooth all looking good again. Great guide, thanks. Not too difficult, just need to be organised with the screws.

MartinW - Réponse

Avevo problemi al Wifi e Bluetooth (segnale più debole del solito) e al GPS (inaccuratezza, a tal punto da non far funzionare nessuna app di navigazione). Ho cambiato il connettore e ora non ho più nessun problema, come nuovo. Il pezzo che ho sostituito ha una strana etichetta sopra che si è spostata e/o usurata, forse in seguito a un urto, ed è molto più schiacciata di quella del pezzo nuovo.

Fixed issues to Wifi, Bluetooth and GPS (weak signal and inaccuracy).

Thank you for the guide:

FIXED!

Francesco - Réponse

Réussi à changer l’antenne wifi/gps/bluetooth et la nappe de connection en 1h15.

Juste en remettant la carte mère je n’ai pas fait attention au cable de l’antenne wifi qui avait glissé sous la carte mère .

Etape la plus difficile : 23 !!!

Mais j’ai récupéré un GPS fonctionnel pour environ 10 € !

Jérôme Briens - Réponse

Instructions were bang on! Take your time and as others suggested, print out the instructions (in colour) and tape each screw and component to its corresponding page. I also used a large magnifying glass with built in lighting on a floor stand to assist in making sure I was snapping each connector back correctly and securely. This fix fully restored my WiFi connection on the 2.4 Ghz. band. Thank you !

Max Turavani - Réponse

Excellent guide. GPS wasn’t working well at all on iPhone 6, and now it’s much better!

Alexander N - Réponse

THANK YOU - I had the same problem as above (awful GPS, BT and WiFi).

Apple shop tried to tell me it was a fault with my battery (which they would happily replace for me if I gave them 90GBP), which fully knew was just a lie. I love Apple products, but in the last 10 years the customer service/repair options have just gone down hill.

Took my time and stuck each component onto the paper next to each step as I went along and removed them. When I got to replacing the part, it was clear there was damage - one of the little connectors on the component was half hanging off and when I removed it, this part pinged across the room.

New part installed and its like having a new phone again.

Tips - go slow and gentle. Read the additional posted comments before you do anything. Have a good light source, a cup of coffee and don't rush. I bought the whole fix kit (inc tools) and had it shipped to UK - think it cost be 20GBP with postage! I am one happy man.

Joseph Williams - Réponse

I too had a phone with poor wifi and bluetooth reception. The GPS location was so poor that all navigation apps were unusable for directions. It took me about 2 hours to install the new F-cable and after the install my phone works good as new. the instructions on the ifixit website were amazing. They practically hold your hand step by step through the entire process. I printed out the instructions on computer paper and taped every screw I removed onto the page for that step. This made the reassebly process so much easier. If you take your time and follow the instructions its actually a simple fix.

jason hudkins - Réponse

Good guide, listen to the people who say to print out the directions and tape the parts to the corresponding steps on the paper.

This improved the wifi but unfortunately didn’t do anything to improve GPS. Oh well

jj442434 - Réponse

First time I ever did a replacement and worked very well. great tutorial! thank you very much, my bluetooth and gps works great again and didnt work at all before!

Alex - Réponse

sorted my phone in 40 mins, thanks. i do however seem to have a small black plastic piece left over??? had a slot in it and a hole for a screw going through at 90 degrees. i cant for the life of me figure out where its come from!!

scott wright - Réponse

Seems like angled logic board bracket. See steps 31-32.

Kirill Kormiltsev -

Thanks for excellent explanation

I have done . Wifi now working perfectly but battery drain very fast ?!

Is it due to replacement of flex cable or faulty steps

Or battery life suddenly getting over!?

mtumapathy - Réponse

I replaced the WiFi cable and battery at the same time, phone now works perfect. Thank you for the well detailed right up. My only issue came when trying to pick up one of the screws with the tweezers and it shot out across the room. I suppose i was squeezing too hard but I found it and all is great!

Albert Campion - Réponse

Great !!!!! I changed the “Antenna Flex Cable” and “Wi-Fi Antenna” at the same time, they weren’t so expensive (less than 5 € both), and finally my WiFi, GPS signal and Bluetooth worked again. ouf !!! it takes me a while thinking to fix it myself, BUT fortunately I came here to ifixit.com and everything goes fine.

Thanks ifixit.com :)

Ali Mizda - Réponse

Done! Thanx so much!!!!

Gianluca Andreoli - Réponse

My daughters 6 was awful at wifi and BT. Went to a replab and the phone was away for two weeks with nothing done. They mentioned something about micro solving…. Bought parts for 3 $ and changed the antenna and wifi module. Perfect. Thanks to I fixit.com I managed to do it self. Some challenge to connect the small antenna connectors, but now it WORKS AGAIN!! Thanks.

Sven Erik Moen - Réponse

Great guide! Per numerous other comments, please indicate at the START of the guide that a small flathead screw driver (not included in the repair kit) is needed for the standoff screw in step 36.

Perrin Haley - Réponse

I changed this flex and the antenna but did not improve wifi signal and dropouts. What else could be?

Filipe Silva - Réponse

I have replaced this antena flex cable and now my GPS signal is back along with the strong WiFi signal!

Thank you for this instruction!

Tip: it’s easy to replace battery while perorming this disassembling. I thought of it when had reached the last steps and it was too late, so now need to repeat half of these steps again to replace the battery…

Kirill Kormiltsev - Réponse

This fixed my problem. My wifi was extremely weak and my GPS would not triangulate. Same exact problem as others here described. I ordered the new antenna cable and followed these steps, and now phone signal is like new again I wouldn’t go through the trouble of writing this if I was BS anyone

Thanks for the detailed steps on how to complete this !

Steven Jacobs - Réponse

Great guide, took me a couple hours. Wasted a bit of time on step 31 the horizontal screw. The iFixit kit screwdriver was too bulky and digging into the battery. Headed to the shop and found myself a slimmer screwdriver and the rest went pretty painless. Thanks.

robertlennes - Réponse

Performed…. it WORKED!!!!

Now GPS, Wi-Fi, BT and NFC work!!!! yeah!!!

Cristian Palincas - Réponse

My iPhone 6 is three years old. GPS became unreliable a few months ago. I decided to buy an iPhone 8 Plus and replace the antenna cable and battery at the same time. The procedure took about 3 hours while I watched football. The hardest part was getting the existing battery out because the tape broke when I pulled it. A heat gun helped to get the adhesive pliable. Now my daughter has a “new” phone. Thanks for this guide!

dv30fps - Réponse

Problem Solved! Awesome guide! My wifi and bluetooth has been extremely weak and my gps useless. Waze wouldn’t work anymore and gave me an error that there was no GPS. Google and Apple maps were also essentially useless, often showing me driving through the woods 30 miles from where I was. I ordered a replacement flex cable and decided I had nothing to lose.

I printed this out and had the guide also up on my laptop. For each step that required removing a screw , bracket, etc, I would carefully place the screw(s) (or other bracket) and use a small piece of clear tape to stick it to the appropriate step on the printed out page. When multiple size screws for a step, I made sure to tape each different size screw to the right “sub-step.” At the end, I had a stack of pages and then could just work backwards to reassemble. Took me about an hour total with about 15 minutes of that time for reassembly.

After power up, all worked and all is fixed. My GPS now shows me within a few feet and all is well!

Bill - Réponse

My Sim Slot dosen‘t Work anymore but otherwise it’s a great Guide, Wifi, BT and GPS are working way better Now.

BmwM3Eco Melvin - Réponse

Are you sure it's your some slot? I thought the same but eventually it was the antenna flex cable (the left connector if you are looking at it)

Eric -

I lost my 3/4G network and could not connect to to my phone network. Wifi and Bluetooth were good, after dismantling with this guide I found one of the flex cables connectors was broken. Replaced and al is good now.

Eric - Réponse

same here, mine was the GPS connector.

Poom Poom -

One of the connectors of my flex cable had become damaged somehow, it was scratched on the square metal side and broke off and stayed on the motherboard when removing the flex cable.

After replacing the flex Cable, Phone is like new!

The iPhone 6 with this fix and a new battery, which was almost as easy to replace as any phone just with with a few special tools, is ending up being the phone I had hoped, the first one to really not need an immediate upgrade for maybe 3-4 years. I was HATING it for the last year since the battery, which ended up at 74% of original capacity, stopped it from working properly, no thanks for your added “help” apple, how about some truth. It had been essentially useless, but now its everything I need and will hold me over till some other hopefully 3-4 year phone has my name on it. I think next generation will be more ideal.

WARNING: Reattaching the antenna cable was the most difficult part for me, it took about 5 minutes of trying to get it to pop back on, everything else was easy.

Poom Poom - Réponse

Thank you for the guide.

Replacing Antenna cable fixed all of my bluetooth, wifi anf gps issues.

Mert Kantarciogu - Réponse

I’m writing this in December 2017 and I just successfully used this guide to replace the wifi antenna in my 3 year old iPhone 6. I was having wifi and GPS problems and both seem fixed. The antenna cost $7 on Amazon

This guide is excellent. However be aware that the procedure is very involved and intricate. You really need all the tools listed. It’s worth buying a phone repair kit on Amazon that has the screw drivers, suction cup, various spudgers, tweezers, etc. It took me 3 hours and most of the time is spent on reassembly since it’s very difficult to place the tiny screws back in the holes.

I highly highly highly recommend, as someone else suggested, printing out the instructions, one step per page, and then taping each screw to the picture on each page at the exact highlighted screw locations. This ensures you can’t get confused.

Overall this is a difficult and high risk procedure. But if you go slow and are patient and diligent you can do it. I’m very glad I did it.

Good luck

iPhoneSurgeon - Réponse

Goog guide, issue fixed!!

Matteo Ragoni - Réponse

Thanks for the guide! Replacing the antenna cable solved my GPS problems and improved WiFi and Bluetooth stability.

Michael Jaser - Réponse

It helped me too, followed the above steps(took me 2 hours) and got back my wifi and gps, thanks for this guide, i saved around $275 …

Shivnesh - Réponse

Awesome guide - thanks! Learnt something new, saved money and have working GPS again. It was very fiddly for somebody with not the best eyesight. I was a bit worried about the screen digitizer as I found reconnecting it very difficult and sure I had messed it up\bent it. But all seems good. Thanks again and good luck to everybody else.

Julian - Réponse

Great guide, very informative! I also had GPS issues; the Genius Bar ran diagnostic tests and told me that there was nothing wrong with my phone, and that I should try a factory reset. I did all that, to no avail. Finally decided to try this repair, and it worked great! My two tips: (1) I taped the screws on a piece of paper that I sectioned off by the relevant step number and color of the screw-as depicted in the guide, and followed along on my laptop; and (2) I also used disposable latex gloves which helped me reattach the antenna. I reassembled, and took the phone for a test drive an hour later. GPS is working again!

rabidavid77 - Réponse

Another satisfied customer. My issues were poor BT and GPS. Now both working perfectly.

I found that having a magnetic screw mat and a nice toolkit helped. I bought both mine on ifixit. I like to support this site if possible, since the writeups and forums are so helpful.

jcmuniz - Réponse

Woohoo! So pleased to have successfully done this and find it has fixed my problem. Got quite far through reassembly when I realised I had lost some of the cables under the logic board when I put it back in so had to repeat a bunch of steps *face palm*.

Tessa Baker - Réponse

The red screw on step 27 wont come out! Please help! Any suggestions?

Jeff Smith - Réponse

I’m facing the same problem, did you solve it?

andreaculot99 -

Unfortunately i broke one of coax connector from logicboard. What can i do about it?

Levent Baysak - Réponse

Dude!!! You are awesome. Follow the steps, print it out, label and tape each screw to the step, and take your time. Worked for me. 2.5 hours but well worth the time.

Rafayel Ambartsumyan - Réponse

Brilliant. Did my battery and antenna cable at the same time (GPS was dead too). Super smooth and easy to follow.

Tip: Get a stack of those small mouthwash cups for keeping the screws. I printed the instructions and numbered the screws in sequence and wrote these numbers on both the printed pages and the cups so I’d never put the wrong one in when reassembling.

Twindaddy - Réponse

This absolutely fixed my wifi problem and the GPS triangulation problem. Phone working as good as new. Excellent instructions and thanks !

Steven Jacobs - Réponse

*** 6 month update — buy from ifixit.com NOT Amazon! ***

I had weak wifi signal strength and the GPS was not accurate (blue dot on Google maps was always wrong or would not track my location). So I bought the antenna flex cable from Amazon (brand is called MMOBIEL WIFI sold by Menko Teleco). I followed this repair guide but found no improvement to wifi/gps.

After 6 months it became unbearable so I bought another cable, this time from ifixit.com, and did the repair again. Now everything works flawlessly.

This time I noticed that the cable from Amazon was missing the blue sticker shown in the picture. The ifixit cable had it. So maybe it’s important.

Anyways, I can confirm this repair works, but make sure to buy the cable from ifixit.com

Q Q - Réponse

did you keep the blue plastic on the part, or remove it? Just trying to work out whether it needs to stay on the part in the phone

Patrick Ellison -

The part should look exactly like the original one that came out of your phone. If you see a blue plastic film, that’s usually just a liner for the preinstalled adhesive and should be peeled off and discarded prior to installation.

Jeff Suovanen -

My iPhone 6 GPS stopped working around November 2017. WiFi and Bluetooth worked normally. Bought the replacement flex cable and install kit in March 2018. PROBLEM SOLVED!! Great instructions and easy to follow. Probably took about an hour. Make sure to keep track of the screws so you know which one goes where during reinstallstion. I’m very happy with ifixit for helping me to get this solved without spending a lot of money.

Russ Snyder - Réponse

Was your phone still under warranty when you did this repair? I’m in the same situation as you. My phone has been dropped or anything so I’m wondering would could have gone wrong. Bluetooth and wifi work just fine. GPS is just shot…

jeff -

I have an iPhone 6 which was bent. I think that everything works except the antenna. Is the antena for wifi different than the antena for LTE/phone? I can connect to Wi-fi, but when I put a sim, the signal icon says ‘SEARCHING’ and doesn’t move anywhere. Is this fixable?

Roberto Zozaya - Réponse

Perfect! Wifi, Bluetooth and GPS Working again! When I took out the old Antenna one of the four connectors broke very easily. that colud be the problem.

Fixed in 45 minutes!

Thanks iFixit team and good job!

Ferran Contreras - Réponse

I got my iphone 6s plus in Decemeber through warranty and my phone is still under warranty. I’ve tried everything but replacing this part. If I attempt to do this repair, it will void my warranty. What do some of you recommend?

jeff - Réponse

Sam’s right, and at the same time, if your phone is still under warranty, and as you say it hasn’t been dropped or anything, then theoretically Apple should cover it and you don’t have to stress about figuring out how to repair it. That’s the benefit of having a warranty.

Jeff Suovanen -

Very Good tutorial ! I was afraid of breaking smt but because it was very clear i didnt

IF Informusic - Réponse

This worked great! Wifi and bluetooth came back immediately after replacing flex antenna. I did however have an issue with volume buttons and power/flash button not working. I took the cover off again, disconnected the battery, and secured those connections. As good as new! Thanks!

Jason Dytche - Réponse

Fixed my gps no signal problem

Chun Yu Chen - Réponse

Wow. What a difference. I actually have wifi now instead of almost no signal or no signal at all when I should have it. Do yourself a favor and get a bunch of Dixie cups and some sheets of paper to place them on. Number what step you are on on the paper. If there are multiple screws, arrange the cups in the positions of the screws so there will be no mixing them up. Also, take your time.

By the way, I can see why I didn’t have wifi before. One of the four connectors on the antenna was disconnected from the main part. When I removed the old antennae, the metal connector stayed on the phone.

Matt G - Réponse

Did this repair yesterday, took us about 2hrs. Hardest part was to keep track and storage of the tiny little screws. We followed every step to the letter, fired up the phone after reassembly and had horrible patterns on the screen and an unresponsible display. Following the comments we found out that the digitizer cable must be the problem. Opened it up again and cleaned the socket and the plug of the digitizer connector with a brush. ALL the other connectors connected with a little click when seated. That one was the only one that made problems. Had to REALLY make sure it is in the perfect spot before pressing down. After mastering that one all was good. When we pried the 4 connections off the logic board, 3 came off perfect, but with the 4th one a tiny part of the connector stayed on the logic board. It seemed to have been corroded off the cable itself and that we think was the problem. Now all is good again, good WIFI reception BT works again and GPS which was down as well is working well again.

Heinz Wulff - Réponse

It’s a great tutorial, very precise, very clear, didn’t have any major problem: just lost the WiFi connector foam & didn’t have the right tool for the strut screw (it’s not included in the iFixit default package).

After 1h30 of stress and sweating, my Bluetooth & GPS are working well again : precise GPS localization again (it was very inaccurate most of the time, up to a bunch of kilometers, and moving alone), fluent Bluetooth (all my audio system had a hard time to connect, and the audio streaming was very unstable) !

Note : I had to plug my iPhone to power outlet to make it boot again. Using the standard power button wasn’t working to bring it back to life. I guess it’s… normal.

Thanks to Annika Faelker for the French translation, it’s perfect.

Julien-Pierre - Réponse

Despite the two hours of work, the repair was not succeed.

May be one of procedure was wrong or has problem. Right now I have no idea for another trying.

Any advice to my problem or anybody has similar experience?

Kim Namil - Réponse

Before this fix, my bluetoothrange was about 1,5 m before experiensing short drop outs, now it’s 8m+ with walls in between without dropping out.

My GPS accuracy was at best 165m before, now it’s <10m.

It work’s! Just keep in mind this repair is not easy, and it’s easy to break one of the cables.

Patrik Kron - Réponse

Just replace WiFi antenna and now my Touch ID is unable to activate can you help ?

Gary Brinkworth - Réponse

Thank you so much!! Your guide help me fix the screw problem. I messed up the screws and half of the screen can’t work! But now it is fixed!

silviashen95 - Réponse

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. Followed these instructions step by step - and it’s all worked - take your time and follow advice in commnets. PRINT OUT THE INSTURCTIONS AND STICKY TAPE THE SCREWS TO THE CORRECT PAGE - can’t remember who gave this advice in the comments but its a must do (and thank you) makes it so much easier to do. Took me about an hour and im not all that tecnical. Use the smaller screen shots to help see how cables etc come apart and ensure that seat back into thier positions afterwards - can be a bit fiddle but be patient!! - thank you again.

Inluding the parts and correct (screwdriver) kit managed the fix for about a tenner!

Nigel White - Réponse

Thanks Sam, Nice work.

vini viper - Réponse

I purchased my Antenna Flex Cable @ Amazon and it did not have the little blue plastic and did look used but I made the change and it work’s great. Now, I did not print the pictures where the screws where named but instead I wrote the screw length on a peace of paper under the step number and I put the removed screws un the paper on top of it’s size and follow the steps on my computer screen.

Places I struggle: 1) installing the Antenna Flex Cable, it was hard to push the 4 littles connectors into places without bending the part.

2) reconnecting the volume control cable connector, I could not find the correct place but it went well after I pulled it down just a bit

3) reconnecting the antenna cable connector (step 23)

4) setting back the standoff screw, I think iFixit have a special screwdriver for that, next time I will get it

Thanks for the great repair guide you saved me lots of $$$

Pierre Merineau - Réponse

Super! Mein Iphone 6 hatte schlechtes Wifi, schlechtes Blutooth und extrem schwache GPS-Ortung. Ich habe die Wifi Antenne und das Antennenflexkabel getauscht. Alles funktioniert wieder. Bin begeistert! Versand war auch superschnell!

Mike - Réponse

Very nice guide, well explained and very well detailed, giving warnings along the way to potential errors. My GPS and WiFi work so much better after this fix, I cannot thank you enough. I did get a flex cable from amazon and it did not have the blue stripe on the back, but it still works marvelously.

sachin_1118 - Réponse

Get in with a thought to buy a new iPhone cause it really frustrating when I want to do something with either using WiFi, GPS and Bluetooth i have to turn on and off the setting again and again. But after some researched I found this tutorial and give it a try first.

In the end of the day i only fixed this with a total of IDR80.000 or around $5.5 bought a cheap set of iPhone 6 repairing tools and a cable antenna flex from my country Online Store.

Thank you so much for this guide that saved me thousands of bucks from buying a new iPhone :) Now my old iPhone 6 working normally as it should.

Kicky Pelealu - Réponse

Step 23 was the hairiest step for me, but otherwise using tape to keep screws organized was a killer tip.

Keith Miller - Réponse

After repair, I have still the same GPS issue (not precise and slow tracking) and now I cannot connect bluetooth devices anymore… Everything worked fine and I did not touch any contacts…

Why?

Fachexot - Réponse

What did you change exactly ? Just the antenna or also the GPS module ? Changed both and everything came back to normal.

Gaspard -

Great Tutorial ! Excellent images and pertinent detail. Was a great help. My phone is back to full functionality. While previously a partion loss of WIFI sensitivity and a full loss of GPS reception was obvious in use, the app “GPSDiagnostic” was helpful in demonstrating that the satellites which were no seen before the repair were back plentiful when testing under free sky. Thanks a lot!

Bernard Delley - Réponse

Awesome tutorial, great explanations and detailed pictures. Changed de GPS module and the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna for 15€ (including a set of 21 repair tools), everything worked fine and it didn’t took more than an hour.

Tutorial was opened on my PC and I took an additional 3 blank pages, made separated horizontal lines and numbered them from 1 to 39. Taped them next to my working station (so no accident could move them) to affiliate every single removed screw/piece to its step (Ex: 2 screws on step 10, so between the lines of number 10 on my page, left screw on the left side of the paper and right screw on the right side). Made the backwards steps a lot easier and didn’t had to print out the pages, which saves a !&&* lot of ink.

I can just recommend repairing (with caution, it’s still a fragile object) your phone using such great tutorials, saves money and is eco-friendler than just tossing your phone away to buy a new one !

Gaspard - Réponse

The Bluetooth antenna, tool kit, and instructions worked perfect!! Completed the job in two hours with no rework. I used stickys to label each screw by the step number, color and size. Laid them all out in an organized fashion. Made reassembly much quicker. I highly recommend this product! I thought I was on track to buying a new $600 to $1,000 iPhone. Apple is going to have to wait while longer now.

Scott Cowan - Réponse

Thank zou for this super detailed and accurate guide. I managed to replace the antenna cable and the wifi antenna. The thing is only that one could add a setoff-screw driver in the basic kit of tools. — Thank you again I am happy that iFxit offers these replacement pieces and toolkits and yes for a very affordable price. — Nicest thing is, I have a GPS signal again!

Willi Egger - Réponse

Thanks for this! I was about to spend a grand on a new phone because over the last month or so my phone had no GPS and horrible bluetooth connectivity. I picked up a repair kit on Amazon for about $10, and everything works well once again.

This repair isn’t simple, but if you’ve taken the time to find this thread, I suspect you’ll be fine.

Take your time. Read the instructions carefully. Keep close track of the tiny screws. Save a ton of $$$.

John - Réponse

Just finished this and it fixed my GPS. Wifi and bluetooth had been fine, but GPS died suddenly, making things like google maps useless for driving. I verified it was a GPS problem by downloading a GPS app that shows the number of satellites it’s locked on. The procedure is very straightforward - I printed the whole thing out and put pieces of tape at each step near the pictures of the screws & small parts to keep track properly. If your iphone hasn’t been bent or anything it all goes back together very smoothly. Steady hands and the screwdriver/tweezers/spudger kit helped. I also used a ground strap (from another ifixit kit) during the procedure and nitrile gloves when handling connectors.

lindensmith - Réponse

clap clap clap.

Incredible how easy is. Make sure to reconect everything back. Take me one hour 20 minutes.

David E - Réponse

Danke, danke, danke! Perfekte Anleitung, dank wieder funktionierendem GPS weiß ich jetzt wieder, wo ich bin ;-)) Die Reparatur war in 1:15 erledigt, mein Iphone hat die Prozedur ohne Schäden überstanden!

hr.dopf - Réponse

WOoooT!!! All done, but took me longer because I didn’t properly reconnect one of the cables and had to take it all apart, and make sure all the cables were properly connected. Amazing having bluetooth and GPS again!

matt gladdek - Réponse

I did it successfully but now battery is not charging tried 2-3 chargers still not. What could be the reason? Which cable charges battery?

AATIF ALI KHAN - Réponse

Great guide. It really helped-me. Now everything seems to be back to normal. Hands down the best maintenance I ever got in my life!

Now, one little improvement would be making reference that the standoff screw AND the SIM card eject tool are both inside the new antenna flex cable package you get with the repair kit.

Thanks! Saved my phone!

Thiago Santos Sobrinho - Réponse

Excellent set of instructions along with the ifixit kit. No issues fixing whatsoever and my gps and bluetooth is fixed for the first time in over a year! Thanks for saving me the cost of a new phone or a repair. It’s given me the confidence to open up my phone and fix it now. Now to replace my battery…

Chris - Réponse

Great guide. After dropping my phone, my bluetooth and wifi would only work at very short range and GPS wasn’t working well - giving a huge area of uncertainty. Bought an F cable off eBay and followed the guide, took about 45 minutes but nothing difficult, just lots of steps! When I got to the antenna flex cable, I found that the longer leg of it had snapped. Replaced that, did the guide in reverse to reassemble, powered the phone up and all is working well again.

It’s not designed for such maintenance, but after two replacement batteries and now this, my iPhone 6 lives on!

Daniel Foster - Réponse

Excellent guide! I used a silicone “soldering” mat with a bunch of screw “wells” to keep all the screws in order for reassembly. The procedure went very well, but I could not fix my phone.

My iPhone 6 GPS stopped working, and this flex antenna is apparently the culprit. Unfortunately for me, I found that one of the antenna connectors on the main logic board had come off, and the connector itself fell apart as I disconnected it from the original flex antenna. I do not have the equipment to reattach it anyway, so I just put the phone back together as-is (with the old flex antenna connected to three terminals instead of 4). Needless to say, my GPS still does not work, but I am confident that I know the reason, and now have to decide if I want to take more extreme (and costly) measures to fix the phone or not.

Riyadth - Réponse

My Problem: Wifi connects - no internet, while Bluetooth and GPS is working

Step 1: Replacing battery

Step 2.: Replacing wifi module

Step 3: Replacing antenna

Step 4: Backup & Restore with itunes

Step 5: Reset Network Settings

Result: Wifi connects, no internet at all, Iphone 6 turns off and reboots -> What should I do?

erik.poppe - Réponse

My front and rear facing cameras are not working after doing this, does anyone know where I can look to see what is wrong?

Joshua Watson - Réponse

WOW! It works!! I have NEVER done anything like this before. I can’t believe I fixed my own phone. Thank you SOOO much for this guide. You made it easy to order the part and all the tools I would need for the repair. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. I appreciate everyone who made specific comments on the steps. It let me know where to be extra careful. I especially love the person who suggested taping each screw to the printed directions—brilliant idea. A friend of mine suggested using plastic bottle tops to keep all of the little parts in so there was no danger of losing them. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Linda Chandler - Réponse

The shop quoted me several days for the repair which I couldn’t afford. Got the parts online, fixed it myself with the help of this guide which was perfectly clear and concise and everything worked perfect again.

Ivan Le - Réponse

Fantastic! I had poor blutooth and wifi connectivity. While unmounting the antenna I noticed 2 of the 4 connectors were loose (not connected to the board). This may have caused the poor reception problems. Anyway, I replaced the antenna, since I had ordered it already. I followed the instructions and now the problem is resolved!

cyberyann - Réponse

GREAT Instructions!! Thank you also to whoever had the comment recommending that you print out the instructions on paper and then tape the screws to the instructions as you go! Even within some steps you have up to three different screw sizes to track, and it would be very hard to visually tell the sizing of one screw to the next just by looking, but by taping them to the great color coded instructions with pictures, everything went perfect and my GPS and Bluetooth signal are back and saved me from buying a new phone. So glad I found this thread and set of instructions!!

Eric Linkugel - Réponse

Thank you for taking the time to publish this. Apple told me there wasn’t anything that they could do except sell me another phone. I ordered the parts and tools for $15 and a little more than an hour later, the phone was fixed. I used empty pill bottles that I labeled to hold screws and other parts for each step. I had a screw get away from me and it ended up on the floor, but thankfully I was able to find. Organization is key as there are many parts and steps, but I did it and I’ve never had a phone open before.

Robert Weitzel - Réponse