on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

Excellent instructions. I did it slowly as it’s my first time with a Macbook Pro. Took me 90 minutes. I added some comments in steps 13-15 because the battery wasn’t connected properly on the first time.

If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

From looking at the silvery charging poles at the end of the stem I think you can rig a battery to keep it going. Here is how I would do it: 1. figure out what the polarities are from the charging case,

2. solder the positive and negative to the respective portions at the end of each stem,

3. connect that to the correct battery voltage and supply,

4. heat shrink the entire thing so it look like you’re wearing ear rings.