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Introduction

Ce tutoriel de réparation provient de l'équipe iFixit et n'a pas été soumis à l'approbation de Google. Pour en savoir plus sur nos tutoriels de réparation, c'est par ici.

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour changer la batterie de votre Google Pixel 2.

Avant de démonter votre téléphone, déchargez votre batterie en dessous de 25 %. Une batterie au lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions qui s'imposent.

Attention : en raison de l'adhésif tenace qui maintient l'écran, du faible espace libre pour l'insertion de vos outils et de la chaleur élevée requise, il y a de fortes chances que votre écran soit accidentellement endommagé pendant cette procédure.. À moins que vous ne prévoyiez de remplacer votre écran en même temps, travaillez très soigneusement et soyez prêt à remplacer l'écran, au cas où il ne fonctionnerait pas lors du remontage. Suivez attentivement les instructions et respectez tous les avertissements afin d'augmenter vos chances de réussite.

La batterie est maintenue en place par un adhésif très tenace. Vous devrez utiliser de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration (plus de 90 %) pour détacher la batterie du téléphone.

  1. Si la vitre de votre écran est fissurée, évitez qu'elle se brise davantage et empêchez toute blessure pendant la réparation en la recouvrant de bande adhésive. Cela permet également d'obtenir une surface lisse permettant à la ventouse de mieux tenir. Posez la ventouse aussi près du bord avec le bouton de volume du téléphone que possible, tout en évitant le bord incurvé.
    • Si la vitre de votre écran est fissurée, évitez qu'elle se brise davantage et empêchez toute blessure pendant la réparation en la recouvrant de bande adhésive. Cela permet également d'obtenir une surface lisse permettant à la ventouse de mieux tenir.

    • Posez la ventouse aussi près du bord avec le bouton de volume du téléphone que possible, tout en évitant le bord incurvé.

    • La ventouse ne tiendra pas bien sur le bord incurvé de la vitre.

    My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

    John Tippitt - Réponse

    Does the Google Pixel 2 have be powered off before removing the digitizer screen? Its not mentioned in this article...

    Will the phone be damaged if the power is still on when disconnecting the broken screen?

    Alex - Réponse

  2. Tirez de façon ferme et constante sur la ventouse et insérez un médiator entre le panneau frontal et la coque arrière. Évitez d'insérer le médiator plus que 1,5 mm, sinon vous risquez d'endommager le panneau OLED. Cette procédure requiert pas mal de force et de patience. Si vous avez des difficultés, faites bouger la ventouse et l'écran pour affaiblir l'adhésif ou utilisez un iOpener, un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux.
    • Tirez de façon ferme et constante sur la ventouse et insérez un médiator entre le panneau frontal et la coque arrière.

    • Évitez d'insérer le médiator plus que 1,5 mm, sinon vous risquez d'endommager le panneau OLED.

    • Cette procédure requiert pas mal de force et de patience. Si vous avez des difficultés, faites bouger la ventouse et l'écran pour affaiblir l'adhésif ou utilisez un iOpener, un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux.

    • Le panneau d'écran est fragile. Si vous comptez le réutiliser, veillez à insérer votre outil juste assez pour détacher l'adhésif. Si vous l'insérez trop, vous risquez d'abîmer le panneau OLED sous la vitre.

    They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

    Devin McMillen - Réponse

    How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

    Sen Lin - Réponse

    try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive.  “

    Rogerio Sa - Réponse

    Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

    Chibi Chica - Réponse

    Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

    Raquel Smith - Réponse

    Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

    Douglas Leenhouts - Réponse

    I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

    Alex Lawson - Réponse

    I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

    I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

    John Reagan - Réponse

    Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

    Aleksandr Demidenko - Réponse

    The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

    A Sid - Réponse

    As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.

    Scott Graham - Réponse

  3. À certains endroits, il faut être particulièrement vigilant lors des étapes suivantes afin d'éviter des dommages : N'insérez le médiator pas plus que 9 mm dans le bord inférieur du téléphone. Si le médiator touche à la partie pliée du panneau OLED, l'écran peut être endommagé.
    • À certains endroits, il faut être particulièrement vigilant lors des étapes suivantes afin d'éviter des dommages :

    • N'insérez le médiator pas plus que 9 mm dans le bord inférieur du téléphone. Si le médiator touche à la partie pliée du panneau OLED, l'écran peut être endommagé.

    • Ne faites que des entailles très superficielles dans le coin supérieur gauche pour éviter d'abîmer la caméra frontale.

    • L'écran risque d'être endommagé de façon permanente si vous insérez votre médiator plus profondément que 1,5 mm sur les côtés et 9 mm en haut et en bas de l'appareil.

    This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

    hunter alden - Réponse

    Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

    Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

    Dave Watts - Réponse

    I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

    Matt Escher - Réponse

    Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

    Ronen Stolarski -

    I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

    John Reagan - Réponse

    Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

    Hasan Akhter - Réponse

    Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

    A Sid - Réponse

  4. Utilisez un côté long du médiator plutôt qu'une pointe pour découper lors des étapes suivantes, cela aide à éviter d'insérer le médiator trop profondément. Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté droit vers le haut pour découper l'adhésif de l'écran.
    • Utilisez un côté long du médiator plutôt qu'une pointe pour découper lors des étapes suivantes, cela aide à éviter d'insérer le médiator trop profondément.

    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté droit vers le haut pour découper l'adhésif de l'écran.

    • Soyez particulièrement vigilant avec les joints des côtés, ils n'ont qu'une profondeur de 1,5 mm.

  5. Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur droit et le long du bord supérieur du téléphone. Une grille couvre le haut-parleur interne en haut de l'écran. Si vous n'avez pas de grille de remplacement, attention à ne pas abîmer ou perdre ce composant. Une grille couvre le haut-parleur interne en haut de l'écran. Si vous n'avez pas de grille de remplacement, attention à ne pas abîmer ou perdre ce composant.
    • Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur droit et le long du bord supérieur du téléphone.

    • Une grille couvre le haut-parleur interne en haut de l'écran. Si vous n'avez pas de grille de remplacement, attention à ne pas abîmer ou perdre ce composant.

    Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

    A Sid - Réponse

  6. Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur gauche et le long du côté gauche, vers le bas du téléphone. Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur gauche et le long du côté gauche, vers le bas du téléphone. Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur gauche et le long du côté gauche, vers le bas du téléphone.
    • Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin supérieur gauche et le long du côté gauche, vers le bas du téléphone.

  7. Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin inférieur gauche et le long du côté inférieur du téléphone. Pour éviter d'abîmer le coins de l'OLED, éloignez et inclinez légèrement le médiator par rapport à l'écran. Soyez particulièrement vigilant pour ne pas insérer le médiator plus que 9 mm, afin d'éviter d'endommager le panneau OLED. Soyez particulièrement vigilant pour ne pas insérer le médiator plus que 9 mm, afin d'éviter d'endommager le panneau OLED.
    • Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin inférieur gauche et le long du côté inférieur du téléphone. Pour éviter d'abîmer le coins de l'OLED, éloignez et inclinez légèrement le médiator par rapport à l'écran.

    • Soyez particulièrement vigilant pour ne pas insérer le médiator plus que 9 mm, afin d'éviter d'endommager le panneau OLED.

  8. Réinsérez le médiator dans le bord supérieur du téléphone et faites délicatement levier pour soulever l'écran. Si l'écran ne se soulève pas facilement, faites un peu plus levier pour détacher l'adhésif restant. L'adhésif près du haut-parleur supérieur est plus épais qu'à d'autres endroits.
    • Réinsérez le médiator dans le bord supérieur du téléphone et faites délicatement levier pour soulever l'écran.

    • Si l'écran ne se soulève pas facilement, faites un peu plus levier pour détacher l'adhésif restant. L'adhésif près du haut-parleur supérieur est plus épais qu'à d'autres endroits.

    • Ne séparez pas encore complètement l'écran, il est encore connecté à la carte mère par une nappe fragile.

    This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

    Dave Watts - Réponse

  9. Posez l'écran soigneusement sur la coque arrière comme sur l'image, tout en veillant à ni plier ni déchirer la nappe d'écran. Retirez les deux vis Tors T5 de 4 mm qui fixent le cache de la nappe d'écran.
    • Posez l'écran soigneusement sur la coque arrière comme sur l'image, tout en veillant à ni plier ni déchirer la nappe d'écran.

    • Retirez les deux vis Tors T5 de 4 mm qui fixent le cache de la nappe d'écran.

    • Tout au long de la réparation, gardez la trace de chaque vis et assurez-vous que chacune d'elles revienne à son emplacement d'origine.

  10. Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.
    • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.

  11. Soulevez le connecteur de la nappe d'écran avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) et retirez-le de sa prise sur la carte mère. Évitez de toucher la carte mère avec la pointe de votre spatule. Les composants autour de la prise sont fragiles.
    • Soulevez le connecteur de la nappe d'écran avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) et retirez-le de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Évitez de toucher la carte mère avec la pointe de votre spatule. Les composants autour de la prise sont fragiles.

    • Pour rebrancher un connecteur à emboîter comme celui-ci, alignez-le soigneusement et appuyez d'un côté jusqu'à ce qu'il s'emboîte, puis recommencez de l'autre côté. N'appuyez pas au milieu. Si le connecteur n'est pas aligné correctement, les broches risquent de se déformer et de causer des dégâts irréversibles.

    • Si une quelconque partie de votre écran ne répond plus au toucher après votre réparation, repositionnez ce connecteur en faisant attention qu'il soit bien enclenché et qu'il n'y ait pas de poussières ou d'autres obstructions dans la prise.

    • Lors du remontage, voici le moment venu pour remplacer l'adhésif autour des bords de l'écran.

    Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

    Zach Laporte - Réponse

    Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

    jlyonsmith - Réponse

    I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

    John Ware - Réponse

    A spudger is the wrong tool to remove the video connector. You cannot see where you are poking with that tool and I wound up dislodging one of the surface mounted devices hidden by the connector and ruining the phone. I also broke a ground path near the corner of the middle frame that is not mentioned in this repair procedure. Watch this YouTube before you begin disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKULr67Z...

    jamesdrobinson - Réponse

  12. Posez un iOpener chauffé près du capteur de proximité sur le bord supérieur du châssis central pendant deux minutes, afin de ramollir son adhésif.
    • Posez un iOpener chauffé près du capteur de proximité sur le bord supérieur du châssis central pendant deux minutes, afin de ramollir son adhésif.

    Isopropyl alcohol worked quickly for this

    Raquel Smith - Réponse

  13. Faites glisser la pointe d'une spatule sous la nappe du capteur de proximité, en commençant par le côté le plus proche de la caméra frontale. Soulevez délicatement le bord de la nappe du capteur jusqu'à ce que le capteur est perpendiculaire au châssis central.
    • Faites glisser la pointe d'une spatule sous la nappe du capteur de proximité, en commençant par le côté le plus proche de la caméra frontale.

    • Soulevez délicatement le bord de la nappe du capteur jusqu'à ce que le capteur est perpendiculaire au châssis central.

    This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.

    Dave Watts - Réponse

  14. Décollez le morceau de bande adhésive qui couvre la vis en-dessous du haut-parleur interne. Décollez aussi toute bande adhésive qui recouvre d'autres vis.
    • Décollez le morceau de bande adhésive qui couvre la vis en-dessous du haut-parleur interne. Décollez aussi toute bande adhésive qui recouvre d'autres vis.

    • Retirez les vis suivantes qui fixent le châssis central :

    • Onze vis cruciformes de 3,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4 mm

    • Tout au long de la réparation, gardez la trace de chaque vis et assurez-vous que chacune d'elles revienne à son emplacement d'origine.

    On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.

    Jonathan Dubovsky - Réponse

    Me too! Please change the photo?

    Andrew Hoeveler - Réponse

    If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the

    Wesley Krueger - Réponse

    Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.

    John Reagan - Réponse

  15. Insérez un outil pour ouvrir dans l'encoche du châssis central près du bouton Hold. Faites levier sur le châssis central juste assez pour créer un interstice entre le châssis et le boîtier du téléphone. À ce stade, il n'est pas possible de retirer complètement le châssis central.
    • Insérez un outil pour ouvrir dans l'encoche du châssis central près du bouton Hold.

    • Faites levier sur le châssis central juste assez pour créer un interstice entre le châssis et le boîtier du téléphone. À ce stade, il n'est pas possible de retirer complètement le châssis central.

    This is to pop a securing tab out it's place

    Wesley Krueger - Réponse

    On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.

    Dave Watts - Réponse

    It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.

    John Reagan - Réponse

  16. Soulevez le châssis central en commençant par le bord inférieur. Lorsque le châssis central est à un angle d'environ 45° par rapport au reste du téléphone, soulevez-le tout droit vers le haut hors du téléphone. Quand vous soulevez le châssis central, faites passer le capteur de proximité soigneusement à travers la petite fente dans le châssis central.
    • Soulevez le châssis central en commençant par le bord inférieur.

    • Lorsque le châssis central est à un angle d'environ 45° par rapport au reste du téléphone, soulevez-le tout droit vers le haut hors du téléphone.

    • Quand vous soulevez le châssis central, faites passer le capteur de proximité soigneusement à travers la petite fente dans le châssis central.

    While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.

    ericdowens - Réponse

    As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.

    Alex Lawson - Réponse

    I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.

    And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.

    John Reagan - Réponse

    STOP! Before you lift the midframe, the ground strap mentioned by ericdowens and Alex Lawson definitely will break if you don’t remove it from the midframe before lifting. I didn’t quite know what they were talking about, so thought I’d look for it as I was lifting the midframe, as I was sure if I was careful I’d spot it before it would break. I was very gentle, and I still broke it before realising what they were talking about. Look for some silver mesh tape on the midframe, near the forward-facing camera, same kind of tape as over the screw shown in Step 14. I’m going to try and carefully tape mine back together as Alex Lawson did, but it will be very fiddly, wish I hadn’t broken it in the first place!

    Jamie Lamb - Réponse

  17. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.

    A and S Frostad - Réponse

  18. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d’une spatule pour débrancher l'ensemble connecteur de charge. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d’une spatule pour débrancher l'ensemble connecteur de charge.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d’une spatule pour débrancher l'ensemble connecteur de charge.

    Removing the battery is not necessary to replace the motherboard, steps 19-21 can be omitted

    Robert - Réponse

    Hi Robert,

    Thanks for the input! I’ve re-ordered the guide to remove the unnecessary steps.

    Arthur Shi -

    Thank you Robert

    shady mohamed -

  19. Remplissez un compte-gouttes en plastique ou une seringue avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration et appliquez quelques gouttes d'alcool sous chaque coin de la batterie.  Attendre une minute que l'alcool agisse sur l'adhésif.
    • Remplissez un compte-gouttes en plastique ou une seringue avec de l'alcool isopropylique à haute concentration et appliquez quelques gouttes d'alcool sous chaque coin de la batterie. Attendre une minute que l'alcool agisse sur l'adhésif.

    • Vous pouvez également appliquer un iOpener chaud à l'arrière du téléphone, au niveau de la batterie, pendant au moins deux minutes. Réchauffez et réappliquez le iOpener si nécessaire jusqu'à ce que l'adhésif de la batterie soit suffisamment ramolli.

  20. Tenez la nappe de l'ensemble charge à l'écart et insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la batterie. Appliquez une pression constante et régulière pour soulever et sortir lentement la batterie du téléphone.
    • Tenez la nappe de l'ensemble charge à l'écart et insérez un médiator le long du bord inférieur de la batterie.

    • Appliquez une pression constante et régulière pour soulever et sortir lentement la batterie du téléphone.

    • Ne faites levier qu'au centre de la batterie pour éviter d'endommager les délicates nappes situées sous chaque côté de la batterie.

    • Faites de votre mieux pour ne pas déformer la batterie pendant ce processus. Les batteries lithium-ion à coque souple peuvent laisser échapper des produits chimiques dangereux, prendre feu ou même exploser si elles sont endommagées. N'exercez pas de force excessive et n'utilisez pas d'outils en métal.

    • Si vous rencontrez des difficultés, mettez un peu plus d'alcool sous la batterie et essayez à nouveau.

    This is another place where the amount of adhesive they’d used in the factory seemed understated - it took ages and plenty of heat and rubbing alcohol to get the battery out. Again, patience was needed - and I thought I might have messed it all up as I must have missed the “only pry from the centre” comment in the guide and went under the right and left bottom corners with a cotton bud and rubbing alcohol - I was lucky I think.

    Dave Watts - Réponse

    With the bottom of the phone resting against the iOpener, I used leverage with one of the plastic picks from the top and bottom of the batter and blue opening tool from the left side (below the volume rocker). It gripped it perfectly where I could pull it up a bit and slide the pick further underneath. Be careful of the volume ribbon cable (thin copper color at the top right of the battery) and what I assume to be an antenna cable. - a single thin black wire leading around the bottom left of the battery itself.

    Avi Baron - Réponse

    I think those cables to the left and right are for the “squeeze” sensors on the case.

    I used lots of alcohol as other suggested. I got it out.

    John Reagan - Réponse

  21. Enlevez la batterie. Ne réutilisez jamais une batterie, car c'est dangereux. Remplacez-la par une neuve.
    • Enlevez la batterie.

    • Ne réutilisez jamais une batterie, car c'est dangereux. Remplacez-la par une neuve.

    • Pour monter une nouvelle batterie :

    • Avec une spatule, grattez les résidus d'adhésif du téléphone et nettoyez les zones d'adhérence avec de l'alcool isopropylique et un chiffon non pelucheux.

    • Fixez la nouvelle batterie avec de l'adhésif prédécoupé ou du ruban adhésif double-face. Pour bien le poser, appliquez votre adhésif sur le téléphone et non directement sur la batterie. Il ne doit toucher aucune des nappes sous la batterie.

    • Appuyez fermement sur la batterie pendant 20 à 30 secondes.

    Why I have to replace the battery if it doing well??!!

    And is it necessary to remove the battery to reinstall the rear camera?

    shady mohamed - Réponse

    Lithium-ion batteries are susceptible to damage when they are bent or creased—the thin layers inside the battery may short, resulting in swelling and potential fire hazard.

    You should be able to replace the rear camera without removing the battery. I will adjust the rear camera guide to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

    Re-assembly note -

    Getting the battery to connect to the charging cable was a challenge for me. However, once it’s connected, if there’s any juice in the battery or if you want to be brave and plug it in, you can test to see if the phone is receiving power by trying to start it up and seeing if it vibrates. The combination of gently adjusting the charging cable, testing power, testing power with the phone plugged in got me to identify when the cable was attached properly.

    Using my squishy finger worked better for re-attaching that cable than using the spudger.

    This is a much better place to test for power than continuing reassembly and finding out it doesn’t work. If the phone cables are connected correctly and the battery has power (mine shipped with some charge in it), the phone will vibrate when you hold power.

    Thomas - Réponse

    Like Thomas, getting the battery cable back was a pain as my positioning of the new battery made the u-shaped cable slightly askew. I finally got it. I was afraid I was going to bend a pin but all good. And I also did the “press power and check for vibrate” trick. The battery (as I would later see) was 52% out of the box.

    John Reagan - Réponse

    Once you remove the battery, you may notice parallel lines of adhesives on both sides of the surface, where the battery was. No need to scrape away these lines. They should be still sticky and usable. Removing these would be a hassle. Just add a strip or two of the double sided adhesives in the middle where the battery was, before putting in your new battery.

    Hasan Akhter - Réponse

    after adding the battery, the turn on a vibrate trick does work, it vibrates, but then it never does again, and the display does not turn on:/ charging it for 10 min did nothing

    Martin The Orange - Réponse

    Thanks to Thomas, I did the turning on to know if it vibrated or not trick, and in my case, it did not. I had to plug out the battery connection and plug it in again with a finger and it was then when I heard a little “click” sound, and then the phone vibrated. You have to ensure that the battery side connector, sits right over the battery connection, before pressing it firmly.

    A Sid - Réponse

    Pro tip, plug in the battery before laying it down. Once the battery is in, you only have so much room to bend before it damages the cable or puts too much tension on the board.

    Lance Garcia - Réponse

Conclusion

Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine : vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou retirer les protections des adhésif de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.

Après avoir complété ce tutoriel, calibrez votre nouvelle batterie.

Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.

La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre Forum pour obtenir de l'aide en cas de problème.

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Adam O'Camb

Membre depuis le 11/04/2015

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33 commentaires

The instructions say “No parts required” and yet I believe that for a battery replacement you might possibly require a new battery (and maybe a new screen in the case of a broken screen). Also you might suggest replacement adhesive and where to find that, too.

Leslie Gawne - Réponse

Hey. So I bought a new housing and a new screen for my Pixel 2. And I have a problem with that. After moving the parts to the new housing my vibromotor stopped working and bottom of the screen easily comes off. What should I do?

Rauf Salikhov - Réponse

Hi Rauf, it’s hard to say exactly what’s wrong, but as a start I would disconnect and reconnect the vibrator motor to make sure it’s connected correctly. As for the screen, make sure you carefully clean any old adhesive off the screen and case (use 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol for stubborn), and apply new adhesive to the screen before you replace it. That should help the display seat in the case and stay put.

Adam O'Camb -

I have a quick question, if we were to replace the screen adhesive with the Tesa 61395 tape, would the phone still remain water resistant to IP67? I am only worried it would not hold it as strong as the original adhesive

Tony Goh - Réponse

Hi Tony, Tesa tape creates a strong bond and should secure your screen just as well as the old adhesive. Unfortunately, the phone won’t be waterproof since you can’t create a continuous seal using the tape.

Adam O'Camb -

It wasn’t super clear to me that you have to cut through the material that surrounds the speakers top and bottom. Looks like I get to replace my screen now too :-(

Andrew Klaiber - Réponse

I did the whole process, after replacing the battery and putting eveyrthing together my screen never lit back up. I can feel the sceen being responsive to my touch but that’s it, it pitch black.

Hector Ramirez - Réponse

I’m having the same problem…. any thoughts?

Amrita Patnaik -

Did you ever resolve this issue? I’ve just done my battery / screen replacement and have the same thing. I can feel the phone restart from the vibration but the screen never lights up.

Erik Karlin -

Same issue here. Screen never worked again upon reassembly. Used iFixit toolkit and followed instructions closely.

Marcus Reid -

Hi, how do i reassemble the phone? Your guide stops at putting in the battery.

Jake Tecchio - Réponse

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly except where otherwise noted. Follow the steps in reverse. Whenever special reassembly instructions are needed, you’ll see a reminder bullet (looks like a push pin)—such as in this step.

Jeff Suovanen -

I am thankful for the instructions, I would classify this as an “expert” level task.

While I successfully followed the instructions and did replace the battery, now I broke the screen somehow. On a side note, if somebody calls the phone it rings, so I know the battery works.

If you need to do these instructions, they are precise, but please know this is a time consuming task and frought with risk.

JJD - Back to 2 year old model phone.

JJ Donovan - Réponse

Hi, what size of tesa tape do you recommend? (can only buy tape on a roll from the EU store)

Howard Ching - Réponse

I’d recommend the 4 mm width for installing the battery. If you want tape for other repairs as well, the 1 mm width is probably more versatile as it can be used to secure smaller parts and fit along the edges of displays. You can lay multiple strips of the 1 mm tape next to each other to secure larger parts if needed.

Adam O'Camb -

DON’T DO THIS REPAIR unless you are planning on replacing the screen. Too many people have ended up with non-functional screens after performing this repair, turning a $50 repair into a $200 repair. For a phone of this age, it’s not worth the gamble.

Chris Kohaenk - Réponse

I’m about to head to the store to purchase a new phone after unsuccessfully performing this upgrade. I highly recommend avoiding this repair unless you’re ready to get a new phone if things go south. The phone is working but the screen is not.

Andrew Jones - Réponse

Is it possible to reheat the adhesive to create a new waterproof bond or is that not recommended?

Drewby Troshak - Réponse

Terrible instructions. I followed them exactly and was very careful with the screen. I didn’t get the picks even .25 inches under the screen and it still broke just enough off a corner to kill the display. Screen doesn’t work at all anymore. Save your money and take the phone to a uBreakiFix place. They’ll do it for $80 with parts and labor, and if they break the screen, they’ll replace it. These instructions were horrible and a very poor description of what was required. Once I took my phone in, even with a new screen, the phone was stuck in a boot loop with the new battery. It worked again when I put the original battery back in. I have always heard good things about iFixIt, but this whole experience has changed my mind. Terrible directions and an incompatible battery. Definitely would not buy from them again.

Stephanie Crossland - Réponse

Using these instructions, I’ve fixed two Pixel 2’s that suffered from puffed batteries — both repairs went smoothly. Excellent instructions and guide. The two phones here had very slightly different internals than pictured like an extra piece of tape here and there but nothing troubling. Getting the residual screen edge adhesive off takes the majority of time!

I highly recommend getting the matching pre-cut “Google Pixel 2 Display Adhesive” sold here. I have Tesa tape but the pre-cut adhesive sheet is not only much easier to install (you can lay it in place with the sheet still in place, so it’s nearly drop-in!) but it’s a continuous seal so will help keep things sealed up tighter than me hand-fitting long strips of Tesa.

Jonathan Dubovsky - Réponse

Had the same experience you did. Changed my Pixel 2’s battery. Went smoothly. It works like new now. It took longer than expected, because I was extra careful. The tools were very useful and the adhesive sheet was a drop-in, I agree.

Hasan Akhter -

I would say that the guide is excellent, but the fix in it’s nature is hard because removing the screen is a delicate operation. You need to make sure you have plenty of patience. I would heavily advise against the fix if you don’t have rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. I’d also read my comments on step 3 and 8 about how to judge the 1.5mm at the sides and the sheer amount of adhesive you may find you need to work your way through respectively. But outside of that, if you go slowly enough you should be fine. I’m not an electronics or DIY expert and my phone is back together successfully and it feels like having a new phone - once the battery was re-calibrated it’s lasting more than twice as long, maybe even 3 times as long between charges (phone was 3 yrs old).

Dave Watts - Réponse

Would there be any benefit to using the iopener to pre-warm the screen, vs a heatgun/hairdryer and or alcohol for the first step of removing the screen?

Michael Reid - Réponse

Hi Michael,

The main benefit is that you cannot overheat the screen with an iOpener. If you are careful, the heatgun/hairdryer approach can be a faster alternative.

Arthur Shi -

Could alcohol help with removing the screen?

Just got my new battery and a kit, now contemplating whether to try it or wait until i have nothing to lose if I break the screen…

Tatiana Moiseeva - Réponse

Using plenty of alcohol (I used denatured alcohol from Home Depot, with an eye dropper) was ESSENTIAL to loosen the adhesive and get the battery out! The iOpener heating pad on the back of the phone for 3 minutes or so also helped a bunch.

Gabriel Staples - Réponse

amazing guid :) really helped me out - now my phone charge doesn’t last for just 5 min

I would just advise to be extra careful when taking the battery out not to hurt the squeeze wires if you hurt one of them it won’t work.

Tzvi-Bar Schumert - Réponse

My P2’s battery died a few months ago (right before the P2 went out of Google support - I bought a P4a). The phone wouldnt’t work unless it was plugged into a charger. That actually got in the way with the upgrade as the P2 -> P4a transfer wanted me to connect the two phones via the USB-C cable. Of course, the moment I unlooked the P2 from the charger, it shut down.

Fast forward a few months, I drop my P4a and break the screen. No display and no touch. (and no insurance - never get it). So I buy yet another P4a and will wait for aftermarket screens to become available. In the meantime, I wanted to practice so I buy the P2 battery replacement and spend a whole Saturday doing the swap. The instructions were pretty good. However, I also had a set of dental picks and magnifying goggles. I’m a model railroader so I’m used to working with small tools.

It powered up just fine and is charging to 100% now. Thanks!

John Reagan - Réponse

I’d recommend against this repair if you’re not prepared to replace the screen as well. This guide isn’t kidding when they say there’s a good chance you’ll break your screen. My screen was in perfect condition before opening the phone, it’s now black and won’t light up at all. I’m now waiting on an ebay screen as ifixit seem to be out of Pixel screens at the moment.

Matt - Réponse

I am looking for a less elegant but simpler brute-force way to just cut the back and replace the battery, without getting near the screen. Most phones are carried in protective cases anyway. See this approach with CNC machine cut back of Surface Pro to replace SSD: Microsoft Surface Pro 3 SSD Replacement Dodgy Style

Andrzej Rusztowicz - Réponse

I see that it’s not possible in case of Pixel 2 because there are still a few ribbon cables between the battery and the back plate (see step 21). Also, the battery ribbon cable would have to be cut and patched because it plugs from the front, which would be inaccessible from the back. Sigh.

Andrzej Rusztowicz -

If your phone falls in water could it be fixed Google pixel 2 with a cracked screen

S S - Réponse

1st of all, You peeps are awesome. You've helped me replace a batter on an SP3 and now my trusty old Pixel 2. A $40 battery is far more appealing than a $1000+ new phone. [br]

Question though: during the screen removal, the adhesive and foam around the opening for the speakers (seen in steps 3 &13) got a bit mangled. Should I just remove it completely, or can I purchase replacements?

Steven Kocher - Réponse

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