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Introduction

Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le disque dur de votre iMac. Le remplacement du disque dur nécessite d'ouvrir l'écran et de retirer le haut-parleur gauche.

Ce tutoriel explique aussi la démarche à suivre pour mettre à jour votre iMac et passer d'un HDD à un SSD. Il explique comment installer la sonde de température du SSD pour coordonner la vitesse des ventilateurs.

Avant de commencer tout travail sur votre iMac : Débranchez l'ordinateur et appuyez sur le bouton d'alimentation pendant dix secondes pour décharger les condensateurs de l'alimentation.

Soyez très prudent et ne touchez pas les fils des condensateurs ou les joints de soudure à découvert à l'arrière de l'alimentation.

Vidéo d'introduction

    • Si la charnière n'est pas bloquée, l'iMac sera mal équilibré et vous aurez du mal à le manipuler. Vous pouvez effectuer une réparation en posant l'iMac à l'horizontale, mais ce sera plus rapide et plus facile avec une cale de maintien pour iMac.

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn - Réponse

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that Remplacement du bloc d'alimentation de l'iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

    Dan -

  1. En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de mise sous tension, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière. Le moyeu de l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac vous empêchera d'engager la roulette trop loin. Si vous vous servez d'un autre outil, ne l'insérez pas de plus de 9,5 mm dans l'écran. Sinon, vous risquez de sectionner les câbles de l'antenne et de provoquer de graves dégâts. Le moyeu de l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac vous empêchera d'engager la roulette trop loin. Si vous vous servez d'un autre outil, ne l'insérez pas de plus de 9,5 mm dans l'écran. Sinon, vous risquez de sectionner les câbles de l'antenne et de provoquer de graves dégâts.
    • En partant de la gauche de l'écran, près du bouton de mise sous tension, insérez l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac dans l'interstice entre la vitre et le boîtier arrière.

    • Le moyeu de l'outil d'ouverture de l'iMac vous empêchera d'engager la roulette trop loin. Si vous vous servez d'un autre outil, ne l'insérez pas de plus de 9,5 mm dans l'écran. Sinon, vous risquez de sectionner les câbles de l'antenne et de provoquer de graves dégâts.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Réponse

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Réponse

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Réponse

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Réponse

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Réponse

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - Réponse

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - Réponse

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - Réponse

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - Réponse

  2. Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive. Veillez à toujours pousser l'outil en plaçant la poignée derrière la roulette. Si vous tirez sur l'outil, la roulette risque de sortir de la poignée. Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.
    • Servez-vous de l'outil comme d'une roulette à pizza, en suivant le pourtour de l'iMac, de manière à effectuer une découpe au centre de la mousse adhésive.

    • Veillez à toujours pousser l'outil en plaçant la poignée derrière la roulette. Si vous tirez sur l'outil, la roulette risque de sortir de la poignée.

    • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté gauche de l'écran.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Réponse

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - Réponse

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Réponse

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - Réponse

  3. Continuez à passer l'outil en suivant l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran. Continuez à passer l'outil en suivant l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran. Continuez à passer l'outil en suivant l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran.
    • Continuez à passer l'outil en suivant l'angle supérieur gauche de l'écran.

  4. Découpez la mousse adhésive le long du bord supérieur gauche de l'écran. Découpez la mousse adhésive le long du bord supérieur gauche de l'écran.
    • Découpez la mousse adhésive le long du bord supérieur gauche de l'écran.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  5. Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran. Vous pouvez repasser l'outil plusieurs fois au même endroit pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.
    • Continuez tout au long du bord supérieur de l'écran.

    • Vous pouvez repasser l'outil plusieurs fois au même endroit pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - Réponse

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - Réponse

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - Réponse

  6. Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran. Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran. Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran.
    • Passez l'outil dans l'angle supérieur droit de l'écran.

  7. Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté droit de l'écran. Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté droit de l'écran.
    • Passez l'outil de haut en bas sur le côté droit de l'écran.

  8. Pour finir, passez l'outil au bas de l'écran en partant de la droite. À ce stade, vous pouvez repasser l'outil tout autour de l'écran pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.
    • Pour finir, passez l'outil au bas de l'écran en partant de la droite.

    • À ce stade, vous pouvez repasser l'outil tout autour de l'écran pour découper le plus de mousse adhésive possible.

  9. Bien que l'outil ait fait le plus gros du travail, il est probable que l'écran continue d'adhérer légèrement au boîtier. Vous aurez besoin d'une carte plastifiée pour découper le reste de la mousse adhésive. Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une table. En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte plastifiée entre l'écran et le cadre.
    • Bien que l'outil ait fait le plus gros du travail, il est probable que l'écran continue d'adhérer légèrement au boîtier. Vous aurez besoin d'une carte plastifiée pour découper le reste de la mousse adhésive.

    • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une table.

    • En partant de l'angle supérieur droit de l'iMac, insérez une carte plastifiée entre l'écran et le cadre.

    • Ne l'enfoncez pas de plus de 9,5 mm (3/8"), ou vous pourriez endommager les composants internes.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Réponse

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Réponse

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Réponse

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Réponse

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - Réponse

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - Réponse

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - Réponse

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - Réponse

  10. Faites délicatement pivoter la carte en plastique pour ouvrir un espace entre l'écran et le châssis et découper l'adhésif restant à côté du coin. Forcer trop fissurera le verre. Travaillez soigneusement et n'essayez pas de créer un espace supérieur à 6 mm (1/4").
    • Faites délicatement pivoter la carte en plastique pour ouvrir un espace entre l'écran et le châssis et découper l'adhésif restant à côté du coin.

    • Forcer trop fissurera le verre. Travaillez soigneusement et n'essayez pas de créer un espace supérieur à 6 mm (1/4").

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Réponse

  11. Veillez à vous arrêter avant la caméra iSight afin de ne pas l'endommager. Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive. Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive.
    • Veillez à vous arrêter avant la caméra iSight afin de ne pas l'endommager.

    • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran pour découper le reste de mousse adhésive.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Réponse

  12. Réintroduisez la carte dans l'angle et laissez-la en place pour éviter que la mousse adhésive ne recolle l'écran et le cadre. Réintroduisez la carte dans l'angle et laissez-la en place pour éviter que la mousse adhésive ne recolle l'écran et le cadre.
    • Réintroduisez la carte dans l'angle et laissez-la en place pour éviter que la mousse adhésive ne recolle l'écran et le cadre.

  13. Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre dans l'angle supérieur gauche. Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre dans l'angle supérieur gauche. Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre dans l'angle supérieur gauche.
    • Insérez une seconde carte dans l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

  14. Tournez doucement la carte pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre. Procédez comme vous l'avez fait de l'autre côté : déplacez la carte lentement pour découper la mousse adhésive en veillant à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran.
    • Tournez doucement la carte pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le cadre.

    • Procédez comme vous l'avez fait de l'autre côté : déplacez la carte lentement pour découper la mousse adhésive en veillant à ne pas exercer une pression excessive sur la vitre de l'écran.

  15. Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight. Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight. Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight.
    • Faites glisser la carte vers le centre de l'écran et veillez à vous arrêter juste avant la caméra iSight.

  16. Réinsérez la carte dans l'angle supérieur gauche. Réinsérez la carte dans l'angle supérieur gauche.
    • Réinsérez la carte dans l'angle supérieur gauche.

  17. Soulevez l'écran de quelques centimètres seulement, car il est encore relié à l'iMac par les câbles de données et d'alimentation. Les deux cartes étant insérées près des angles de l'iMac, comme illustré, tournez-les doucement pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier. Si l'écran et le boîtier restent collés à certains endroits, utilisez l'une des cartes pour découper la mousse adhésive et les séparer.
    • Soulevez l'écran de quelques centimètres seulement, car il est encore relié à l'iMac par les câbles de données et d'alimentation.

    • Les deux cartes étant insérées près des angles de l'iMac, comme illustré, tournez-les doucement pour élargir l'interstice entre l'écran et le boîtier.

    • Si l'écran et le boîtier restent collés à certains endroits, utilisez l'une des cartes pour découper la mousse adhésive et les séparer.

    • Commencez à soulever le haut de l'écran pour le séparer du cadre.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Réponse

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - Réponse

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - Réponse

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - Réponse

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - Réponse

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - Réponse

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - Réponse

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

  18. Tout en maintenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez son câble d'alimentation de l'autre main. Soulevez l'écran suffisamment pour accéder sans difficulté aux connexions (environ 20 cm), mais pas trop, afin de ne pas soumettre les câbles et les connexions à des tensions excessives.
    • Tout en maintenant l'écran d'une main, débranchez son câble d'alimentation de l'autre main.

    • Soulevez l'écran suffisamment pour accéder sans difficulté aux connexions (environ 20 cm), mais pas trop, afin de ne pas soumettre les câbles et les connexions à des tensions excessives.

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Réponse

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Réponse

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Réponse

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - Réponse

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - Réponse

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - Réponse

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - Réponse

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - Réponse

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert - Réponse

  19. Basculez le support de fixation métallique du câble de données de l'écran vers le haut. Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran. Cette connexion est fragile et peut être facilement endommagée. Veillez à tirer le connecteur du câble de l'écran vers le haut de l'iMac, en le tenant droit, pour le débrancher de sa prise.
    • Basculez le support de fixation métallique du câble de données de l'écran vers le haut.

    • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran.

    • Cette connexion est fragile et peut être facilement endommagée. Veillez à tirer le connecteur du câble de l'écran vers le haut de l'iMac, en le tenant droit, pour le débrancher de sa prise.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Réponse

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Réponse

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Réponse

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Réponse

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Réponse

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Réponse

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Réponse

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - Réponse

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Réponse

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - Réponse

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - Réponse

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - Réponse

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - Réponse

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

  20. Relevez l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque vertical. À ce stade, il reste une bande de mousse adhésive en bas de l'écran, qui maintient ensemble l'écran et le cadre comme une charnière. Vous pouvez la décoller en abaissant et soulevant l'écran plusieurs fois de suite.
    • Relevez l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque vertical.

    • À ce stade, il reste une bande de mousse adhésive en bas de l'écran, qui maintient ensemble l'écran et le cadre comme une charnière. Vous pouvez la décoller en abaissant et soulevant l'écran plusieurs fois de suite.

    • Retirez autant d'adhésif que possible en le saisissant par les bords extérieurs, puis en le tirant ou en le faisant rouler vers le milieu.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Réponse

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Réponse

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Réponse

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Réponse

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Réponse

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - Réponse

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - Réponse

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - Réponse

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - Réponse

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter - Réponse

  21. Servez-vous, si nécessaire, d'une carte plastifiée pour découper la mousse adhésive aux endroits où le bas de l'écran continue d'adhérer au cadre. Veillez à ne pas toucher les fils du condensateur ou les joints de soudure à découvert à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation (encadrés en rouge).
    • Servez-vous, si nécessaire, d'une carte plastifiée pour découper la mousse adhésive aux endroits où le bas de l'écran continue d'adhérer au cadre.

    • Veillez à ne pas toucher les fils du condensateur ou les joints de soudure à découvert à l'arrière du bloc d'alimentation (encadrés en rouge).

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Réponse

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Réponse

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Réponse

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Réponse

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Réponse

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - Réponse

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - Réponse

  22. Faites très attention lorsque vous manipulez l'écran : il est grand, lourd et en verre. Ses bords sont fragiles. Évitez de le tenir par les coins. Soulevez l'écran pour le séparer du cadre et sortez-le de l'iMac. Posez l'écran à l'envers sur une surface plate et molle. Vous devrez peut-être soulever lentement l'écran d'un côté pour le décoller complètement.
    • Faites très attention lorsque vous manipulez l'écran : il est grand, lourd et en verre. Ses bords sont fragiles. Évitez de le tenir par les coins.

    • Soulevez l'écran pour le séparer du cadre et sortez-le de l'iMac. Posez l'écran à l'envers sur une surface plate et molle.

    • Vous devrez peut-être soulever lentement l'écran d'un côté pour le décoller complètement.

    • Une fois l'adhésif découpé, il ne peut pas être utilisé pour refermer l'écran en place. Suivez ce tutoriel une fois la réparation terminée pour remplacer les bandes adhésives qui fixent l'écran au boîtier arrière.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - Réponse

  23. Si vous remplacez l’écran, vous devrez peut-être transférer des composants supplémentaires de l'ancien panneau sur le nouveau. Comparez le dos de l'ancien écran avec l'écran de remplacement. Notez tous les câbles, capteurs et coussinets en mousse qui manquent sur le nouvel écran.
    • Si vous remplacez l’écran, vous devrez peut-être transférer des composants supplémentaires de l'ancien panneau sur le nouveau. Comparez le dos de l'ancien écran avec l'écran de remplacement. Notez tous les câbles, capteurs et coussinets en mousse qui manquent sur le nouvel écran.

    • S'il y a un câble ou une nappe sous le ruban adhésif, retirez toujours le ruban en premier.

    • Si la nappe est collée au châssis, utilisez d'abord un iOpener chauffé ou un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif. Vous pouvez ensuite faire glisser un médiator sous la nappe pour la décoller. Ne tirez jamais directement sur les connecteurs délicats.

    • Faites glisser un médiator sous les coussinets en mousse pour les séparer de l'écran et retirez-les délicatement. Vous devrez peut-être utiliser du ruban adhésif double-face pour les rattacher au nouvel écran.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Réponse

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Réponse

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Réponse

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Réponse

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - Réponse

  24. Avec un tournevis T10, dévissez les deux vis de 10 mm qui fixent le haut-parleur gauche.
    • Avec un tournevis T10, dévissez les deux vis de 10 mm qui fixent le haut-parleur gauche.

  25. Déplacez le haut-parleur gauche dévissé vers la gauche – suffisamment pour découvrir les vis du dispositif d'attache du disque dur. Déplacez le haut-parleur gauche dévissé vers la gauche – suffisamment pour découvrir les vis du dispositif d'attache du disque dur.
    • Déplacez le haut-parleur gauche dévissé vers la gauche – suffisamment pour découvrir les vis du dispositif d'attache du disque dur.

  26. Tirez tout droit sur le câble SATA pour le débrancher du disque. Tirez tout droit sur le câble SATA pour le débrancher du disque.
    • Tirez tout droit sur le câble SATA pour le débrancher du disque.

    Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

    Julien Dal Col - Réponse

  27. Prenez un tournevis T8 pour dévisser les deux vis de 7,3 mm qui fixent le dispositif d'attache du disque dur au boîtier arrière.
    • Prenez un tournevis T8 pour dévisser les deux vis de 7,3 mm qui fixent le dispositif d'attache du disque dur au boîtier arrière.

    they are T9 for 2012.

    sean_gizzle - Réponse

  28. Saisissez le disque dur et son dispositif d'attache en un morceau. Soulevez le côté gauche et faites glisser le bloc vers la gauche. Ôtez le disque dur et son dispositif d'attache de l'iMac.
    • Saisissez le disque dur et son dispositif d'attache en un morceau.

    • Soulevez le côté gauche et faites glisser le bloc vers la gauche.

    • Ôtez le disque dur et son dispositif d'attache de l'iMac.

  29. Ôtez le dispositif d'attache du disque dur. Ôtez le dispositif d'attache du disque dur.
    • Ôtez le dispositif d'attache du disque dur.

  30. Retirez les quatre vis T8 de 8,1 mm du disque dur et transférez-les sur votre nouveau boîtier de disque.
    • Retirez les quatre vis T8 de 8,1 mm du disque dur et transférez-les sur votre nouveau boîtier de disque.

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd - Réponse

  31. Consultez les étapes suivantes si vous remplacez votre disque dur avec un kit pour SSD. Si votre boîtier de SSD ressemble à la première image, consultez plutôt ce tutoriel. Alignez les connecteurs de SSD avec les prises du boîtier métallique.
    • Consultez les étapes suivantes si vous remplacez votre disque dur avec un kit pour SSD.

    • Si votre boîtier de SSD ressemble à la première image, consultez plutôt ce tutoriel.

    • Alignez les connecteurs de SSD avec les prises du boîtier métallique.

    • Appuyez le disque contre les prises du boîtier jusqu'à ce que le SSD soit bien encastré.

    • Le SSD se connecte au boîtier dans un seul sens. Si les connecteurs ne s'alignent pas, retournez le SSD et recommencez.

    what if I’m installing a hard drive?

    Troy Garcia - Réponse

  32. Prenez un tournevis cruciforme pour installer les quatre vis argentées (deux de chaque côté) le long des bords du SSD et fixer celui-ci au boîtier. Prenez un tournevis cruciforme pour installer les quatre vis argentées (deux de chaque côté) le long des bords du SSD et fixer celui-ci au boîtier. Prenez un tournevis cruciforme pour installer les quatre vis argentées (deux de chaque côté) le long des bords du SSD et fixer celui-ci au boîtier.
    • Prenez un tournevis cruciforme pour installer les quatre vis argentées (deux de chaque côté) le long des bords du SSD et fixer celui-ci au boîtier.

  33. Branchez le câble d'alimentation SATA compatible avec sonde dans le port du boîtier. Le câble ne se connecte que dans un seul sens. Si vous n'y arrivez pas, tournez-le de 180° et recommencez.
    • Branchez le câble d'alimentation SATA compatible avec sonde dans le port du boîtier.

    • Le câble ne se connecte que dans un seul sens. Si vous n'y arrivez pas, tournez-le de 180° et recommencez.

  34. Décollez le film de protection blanc qui recouvre l'adhésif derrière la petite sonde de température, Collez le circuit de la sonde de température à la surface métallique du SSD, à côté du connecteur SATA. Repliez les câbles de la sonde de température, qui dépassent, de façon qu'ils ne vous gênent pas quand vous montez le boîtier.
    • Décollez le film de protection blanc qui recouvre l'adhésif derrière la petite sonde de température,

    • Collez le circuit de la sonde de température à la surface métallique du SSD, à côté du connecteur SATA.

    • Repliez les câbles de la sonde de température, qui dépassent, de façon qu'ils ne vous gênent pas quand vous montez le boîtier.

    Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

    kenclark200 - Réponse

  35. Prenez un tournevis T8 pour visser les broches de montage provenant du vieux disque dur sur les côtés du boîtier. Prenez un tournevis T8 pour visser les broches de montage provenant du vieux disque dur sur les côtés du boîtier.
    • Prenez un tournevis T8 pour visser les broches de montage provenant du vieux disque dur sur les côtés du boîtier.

  36. Attachez les dispositifs d'attache provenant de l'ancien disque dur sur le boîtier. Attachez les dispositifs d'attache provenant de l'ancien disque dur sur le boîtier.
    • Attachez les dispositifs d'attache provenant de l'ancien disque dur sur le boîtier.

  37. Connectez le câble d'alimentation SATA de l'iMac de l'autre côté du nouveau câble SATA compatible avec sonde. Connectez le câble d'alimentation SATA de l'iMac de l'autre côté du nouveau câble SATA compatible avec sonde.
    • Connectez le câble d'alimentation SATA de l'iMac de l'autre côté du nouveau câble SATA compatible avec sonde.

  38. Les images ci-contre montrent la manipulation à faire sur un iMac 2017. Il se peut que vos câbles soient légèrement différents, mais la procédure est la même. Glissez le boîtier du SSD dans l'espace occupé précédemment par le disque dur. Disposez les câbles SSD de façon qu'ils n'interfèrent avec aucun autre composant.
    • Les images ci-contre montrent la manipulation à faire sur un iMac 2017. Il se peut que vos câbles soient légèrement différents, mais la procédure est la même.

    • Glissez le boîtier du SSD dans l'espace occupé précédemment par le disque dur.

    • Disposez les câbles SSD de façon qu'ils n'interfèrent avec aucun autre composant.

    • Évitez au maximum de leur faire toucher les bords saillants et de les coincer.

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse et utilisez notre tutoriel sur les bandes adhésives pour réattacher la vitre de l'écran.

Apportez vos e-déchets à un centre de recyclage certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.

La réparation ne s'est pas passée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour de l'aide.

244 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Membre depuis le 17/10/2009

474 529 Réputation

410 tutoriels rédigés

Équipe

iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit

Community

138 membres

16 486 tutoriels rédigés

51 commentaires

My experience in upgrading this unit to a Seagate 4TB hybrid ST4000DX001 went fine except for the fans running at a constant higher RPM. Using Macs Fan Control is solving my issue for now. As a tip, you do not need to remove the left speaker, you can loosen the two screws and angle it leaning to the left.

MFR2VCB - Réponse

What setting do you change in Macs Fan Control? Im looking at getting a SSD fitted to my Late 2013 iMac by a certified repair centre who have said they will do it for me if I provide the SSD but they did mention that the fans would most likely speed up as there won't be a temp sensor in the SSD. Thanks.

Lewis -

Lewis: simply running the Macs Fan Control app will do it. Otherwise the fans run at full speed because they have no temperature measurement.

Max Fenton - Réponse

I'm wondering what drive apple uses for the 1TB SSD version? Is it an OEM type PCIE Sandisk as well or a larger 2.5" drive?

I'm very tempted to upgrade my Fusion drive.

Brent Petersen - Réponse

Apple uses a custom Samsung drive.

Review this great guide: The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs

Dan -

Fan Control / temp sensor issue aside, are there any limitations/considerations with replacing the 3.5" 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD in an appropriate bracket?

Is anyone having luck with any particular SSD models?

Tim - Réponse

To solve the fan issue I believe you need to add a temperature sensor like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM... OWC told me if you don't, your fans will go crazy because the new drive probably does not this sensor like the original mac. Just heard it today and then read this. Hope this helps!

weddings - Réponse

Thank you this fixed the fan issue for me!!

Felix Waller -

Hi, is a temperature sensor (like the one linked above) necessary if I am replacing the hard drive with an SSD? Also, what is recommended for the SSD "cradle" since this model iMac comes with a 3.5" disk and SSDs are 2.5"?

wesleyhargrove - Réponse

If I replace a Fusion Drive with an ordinary drive, will there be issues? Or is the fusion SSD a separate part and will be integrated when the new drive is formatted?

Alan Browne - Réponse

Fusion SSD is seperate.

Evert van Harten -

I haven't had any fan noise issues at all after installing an Samsung 840 ssd instead of the seagate hdd.

peter - Réponse

Hi - I replaced the Hard Drive using this guide. But it looks like my imac no longer boots up through the fusion drive. How can I confirm this or fix it to boot back through the fusion drive?

donnorth - Réponse

You will have to fuse them back together through Terminal.

asnperswazin -

How do I fuse them back together through terminal?

donnorth -

I have put 1st a 500gb and after a 1tb ssd both Samsung evo 850. I didn't needed to use the OWC in line thermal sensor, I even have bought it but first upgrade it hadn't arrived yet and I wanted to know if I would really need it since I have read somewhere that the latest versions do not need it anymore. my imac is a late 2015 and I am not sure if really is the fact of it be a newer version or if the Samsung evo 850 have some thermal sensor inside. by pass, the ifixit adhesive and the included apener are both great. it was very easy to replace the hard drive, however replace the processor as a little bit hard but I had success in doing it

Alber Einsten - Réponse

Is it possible to change the power button on the late 2012 iMac 27"? The cable got cut from the speaker but I was able to MacGuyver it with another power button. It looks like you'd have to take the metal bezel off which would have to be cut... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Ryan Arakaki - Réponse

Can I have one SSD for system and another HDD for media in IMac Late 2013 (thin body) , like IMac 2011(fattest body)??

marceloQuiroga - Réponse

Good guide. Would be even better if you added tips regarding replacing the adhesives on the display once the repair is complete. Thanks!

Charles - Réponse

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Sam Goldheart -

That guide exists and is the first option in the EMC 2546 guides list: Remplacement des bandes adhésives d'un iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

Christophe Patys -

I did the installation of a new hard drive following the ifixit guide, afterwards I had the fan issue, I did not have the fans spinning at full speed like some people have been describing but the CPU and other components would just get hot very fast, this seemed very strange, installing Mac fan control didn't help much, as the CPU and stuff would heat up, and if I did not want to damage my computer I had to crank up the fans. I was desperate for a solution, so I purchased the kit from OWC (after reading "weddings" comment) being a bit sceptical, because I wasn't sure if installing a sensor would stop the CPU from heating up. But after the Installation everything is back to normal. The CPU stays at around 40 degrees, and the fan stays quite. I don't understand how this works, but I definitely recommend installing this sensor if you have similar issues after upgrading your hard drive, even if it means opening your iMac again ;). For the record: I have an iMac 27-inch Late 2012.

Felix Waller - Réponse

The guide made it extremely easy to perform an SSD swap. The wheel was the perfect tool, and the strips were perfect for the job.

Christophe Patys - Réponse

I made the change of the hard disk and when closing the imac one part of the screen was left in black that could be this?

john sayegh - Réponse

I got this Screen problem when replaced the HDD with OWC SSD in my iMac late 2012 model.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem ? PLEASE ! I REALLY WORRY ABOUT THIS.

Please take out the photo down here.

goo.gl/vFUiGI

My Email is mrnguyenken@gmail.com

Thank you so much !

Nguyen Ken - Réponse

I have the same problem as you, change the hard drive and now I have a part of the screen in black

john sayegh -

Check and make sure that the Display Data cable is properly seated when attaching it in Step 19.

Philip Sedlmair -

Completed this guide no problem at all. Previously replaced the disk on a smaller iMac without incident.

Images are excellent, detailed and specific.

No issues with CPU fan as mentioned in some other comments. iMac 27inch Late 2012 model.

Bradley Anderson - Réponse

Thank you for this guide: very clear and detailed. The dedicated adhesive-cutting tool was well worth the money, as it sped up the cutting and reduced my stress level! I did need to repeat steps 9-16 a few times before the screen felt loose enough to lift away from the body. TAKE YOUR TIME - the screen WILL lift off without much force when it’s ready.

While the case is open, allow a few minutes more to remove the left speaker and carefully remove any dust and fluff that has been sucked into the case by the cooling fan!

I opted for a 2 TB FireCuda drive. Booting up and loading of apps is noticeably faster, for only a few pounds more than a 2 TB traditional HD: a cost-effective solution for an older Mac.

Peter Barber - Réponse

I think they should change “Difficulty” levels. With this guide: “Easy”; Without this guide: “Difficult”. Thanks again iFixit for another successful repair.

lottpaul - Réponse

Hi Guys, im planning to change my hard drive to SSD according to this instructions, just a simpel question before i get started; How do you do with the system and everything that is installed on the old drive, are you just cloning the disk before change or what is the procedure? (and if so, what tool do i use for that?)

Best regards, have fun :)

Tobbe / Sweden

torbjorn.mobil - Réponse

Yep, you got it! Grab an external hard drive enclosure and clone your old disk to the new disk before you install it. Instructions are here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Worked well but in deed it is not that easy. All important steps are explained and with the kit I’ve got everything I needed. Quotation from one Apple Reseller here was 730€ für 1TB SSD, so I was able to save quite some money. Thanks! Best regards from Bavaria

Hopfa Dinger - Réponse

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) but it was configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - Réponse

Did this for a customer at my shop. Used all iFixit tools and parts. He called back 3 weeks later because the screen fell out. What causes this? Can the iFixit adhesive strips be trusted? We’re out $600 because we have to replace this screen now, and we can’t even be sure that it will not happen again. What can we do?

Alec - Réponse

@fletchertime Sorry to hear that :( In my experience, the replacement adhesive is extremely sticky, so I’m not sure how this could have happened. The only possibilities I can think of are (1) the old adhesive was not cleaned off well enough, resulting in a poor bond for the new adhesive, (2) the customer broke it on their own somehow, and is trying to pin it on you, or (3) the adhesive was defective in some way—certainly possible, but we haven’t heard of any other instances of this. If you ordered from iFixit, at least reach out to customer support and see what they can do to help. Better luck on the next one I hope :(

Jeff Suovanen -

What you used to clean the adhesive could have left a film which interfered with the adhesion.

Rubbing, ethanol isopropyl alcohol can have junk in them that could have messed you up. You really want to use reagent grade (85% or better). To test your solvent is to get a small glass bowl to place some of the solvent and carefully warm it no flames! to speed up the evaporation do you have any staining at the bottom.

Dan -

This guide worked great, thanks a lot! Installed a Crucial MX500 without problems.

Anton Sundqvist - Réponse

And no, I didn’t need a thermal sensor or software to control the fans, they are working as they should anyway.

Anton Sundqvist - Réponse

and then, how i close it? where i can buy the adhesive? how i can apply it?

MarcoVR - Réponse

Follow this guide to replace your adhesive.

You can buy the strips here.

Arthur Shi -

Upgraded my late 2012 27” iMac (13,2) with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD, but was not sure about buying the OWC sensor, so before re-sealing the screen, I booted up and it appears the SSD temperature is monitored without the need for the OWC external sensor. According to the free “macs fan control” app the Temperature of SSD is about 21 Celsius and fan is on low speed. Screen shot is available in my corresponding post in the user forum.

Julian - Réponse

Thanks so much for this guide! This was my first Apple product repair and thankfully it went relatively smoothly. My iMac is operational again and the SSD has added a significant speed boost!

Being that this was my first time it would have been great if this guide also included a section on how to format and load a copy of the Mac OS onto the drive before Installing. I was able to figure this out relatively quickly with some internet searches but I required another Mac so I could download and install the OS onto my new drive with the SATA to USB adapter. There is probably another way or an easier way - but I was going in green! Would be a helpful preface to this guide. Thanks again.

azaadkb - Réponse

Woo hoo! I managed to replace the dying hard drive of my 27” late 2012 iMac with an SSD and, despite being pretty nerve wracking the whole time, it went smoothly! Great guide.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Réponse

I have one of these as my work computer. I absolutely hate how slow the mechanical drive on these is. It’s hampering my workflow… I can’t wait to see the look on the IT guys’ faces when they see how this crap is disassembled to put an SSD in… then the look on my face when they kindly tell me to sod off.

migue31096 - Réponse

Just finished this hard drive replacement today. Was challenging, but the supplied ifixit kit and the instructions made is pretty step-by-step straightforward! New SDD drive is super spiffy fast and breathed new life into this fine computer. IMHO, this model iMac is great because of the target display mode. Even though this computer is now 8 years old, it’s got a lot of pep and will be able to use it for years to come.

tthrivi - Réponse

Great guide, easy to follow even for a non-techie like me. My iMac looks as good as new and performs even better.

The one thing I’d add is that on startup in recovery mode, the new disk does not show up as a volume to restore to. In this case I was able to open a terminal window from the recovery screen and format the disk using DiskUtil eraseDisk. After that all was good.

Dan Augood - Réponse

I want to replace the 2014 fusion drive and the ssd storage with a samsung 1tb ssd and a new eco m.2. I need adhesive for the screen, the hardware (ssd + m.2 and the tools), is there a kit I can buy?

edouardverbeke - Réponse

Great guide, I installed a 2TB Crucial MX500 SSD on my 27” late 2012 and everything is working perfectly. The screen removal is a bit scary but I took my time with the imac opening tool and it went great. You’ll need an extra pair of hands to open the screen and remove the two connectors easily. And take a good look at the two connectors before disconnecting to remember how to put them back.

Don’t rush, and you’ll be fine!

And thanks for the great guide!

Ari - Réponse

I called an Apple Authorized Service center when I decided to replace the Fusion drive with an SSD. The representative swore the heat sensor was not necessary and would fix anything that went wrong if required.

David Taylor - Réponse

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