Introduction
Le remplacement du boîtier nécessite le retrait de presque tous les composants de votre MacBook Pro. Vous devrez également transférer votre ancien trackpad sur votre nouveau boîtier.
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Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
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Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
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Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
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Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
why is step 3 necessary?
来自 gansodesoya 的话:
why is step 3 necessary?
Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.
$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(
You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?
Berlugana
Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.
I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?
I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working
A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).
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Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)
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Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.
Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.
It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.
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Avec une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur de son emplacement pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
The fan plug snapped off right away without applying much pressure so the best angle of attack isn't exactly where the diagram shows. Anyone know how to reattach this piece?
Also worth noting I have the right screwdrivers and the screws inside this thing are really soft.
I broke the socket too.. Any one know how to fix this??
laika117 -
I broke mine off too. No one knows if it can be reattached? Glue? Tape? Anything?
Mine broke, too. None of the repair shops in my area do soldering, so I may be SOL. I spilled water on my laptop and a bunch of keys shorted out. I read online from numerous sources that replacing the keyboard yourself isn't hard, so I figured i'd try it. I am majorly disappointed. Suggestion for iFixit: upload a video of someone disconnecting the fan cable connector. Clearly Apple didn't design it to be easy to remove, and your description is inadequate, given how many people have broken theirs.
I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!
Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!
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Retirez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis cruciforme de 6,5 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 5,5 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 4,5 mm.
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I found it mostly unnecessary to remove the fan and therefore all of the fan screws in this step. Only the two on the left hand side of the fan actually need to be removed. I also found it extremely helpful, after pulling logic boards several times, to remove the speaker screws at this time. The heat sink and the speaker interfere with each other when you are later trying to remove and then install the logic board. The longer screw goes on end of the speaker assembly that is closest to the fan, and the shorter one goes on the end closest to the dvd slot.
This article is about replacing the fan. Therefore you have to unplug and remove the old one.
The step is referenced in the Left Speaker replacement as well as for the Heat Sink replacement. So, I guess a new step may help with this guide. Either way, I couldn’t remove the right screw on the fan. Any idea which driver to use?
eswarjj -
If you are removing the logic board for any other reason than replacing it, or if your replacement logic board came with a fan installed, DO NOT REMOVE THE FAN. It is not necessary for the removal of the logic board. For removal with the fan attached, only remove the two screws on the left hand side of the fan, and leave the cable attached. I see here that too many people have broken the fan cable, and it is too easy to do.
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère, vers le côté DC-In de l'ordinateur.
I pulled out the cable and it kind of broke off, now the screen is black when i turn it on but it still makes the chime. How do i fix this?
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Retirez les deux vis suivantes, attachant la fixation du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis cruciforme de 7 mm.
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Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm.
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Retirez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
For some reason I stripped BOTH these screws! All the other screws came out without a problem!
If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).
When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.
Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du subwoofer et du haut-parleur droite pour les débrancher de la carte mère.
Ouch - broke off the connectors by pulling upwards. As it looks, i should have pulled to the optical drive instead :(
I accidentally dislodged the right speaker / subwoofer cable connector as well as the fan cable connector. I know for the fan cable connector there is a warning about how easy it is to dislodge, but there should be more pictures to describe exactly how to avoid doing so. I can live without the right speaker / subwoofer, but my logic board cannot survive long without a fan. I'm trying to see if I can find someone who will try to solder the cable connector back on, but no one in my area will, so I may need to send it out (a local repair shop owner recommended a guy he's used to fix iPad backlights.) I am probably SOL, though. A new logic board is quite pricey... Had I known that it was so difficult to replace the keyboard on your own, I would have paid the $200 for a local repair shop to fix it. I found iFixit helpful but ultimately misleading. I may end up having to get a new laptop altogether. How upsetting.
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Tirez la nappe de la caméra vers le lecteur optique pour la débrancher de la carte mère.
There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.
I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.
It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...
But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(
If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...
Problem solved! YAY!
PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!
Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.
Vladimir -
i bought an used macbook and the connector in step 10 is missing. Where can i buy that connector? Someone can give me the link for an replacement part?
The connector in Step #10 is the microphone. iFixIt sells this part here: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Microphone
Is that the part you're looking for?
(FYI You asked the question in the comments section for Step #4. That made it extra hard for me to find your post from the email I received because I follow this page.)
After 8 years the adhesive on the pull were non existent. Tab pulled off before I got the connector off.
I also found reversing this step really hard to do. There is very little space to wiggle that connector in beside those tabs.
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Avec votre ongle ou la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.
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Avec votre spatule, faites glisser la nappe du clavier hors de sa prise.
Flat cable ZIF socket manufacturers do not recommend using any tools to open or close the retaining flap due to its fragile nature. They recommend using only you fingers! It's in most socket datasheet instructions section.
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.
Citation de amiller770 :
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).
I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.
My MBP was dead after replacing DC board too. I reseated the keyboard ribbon several times and it's finally working!!!!
As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez soigneusement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.
1. You have to unscrew one metal detail to get hold of microphone. That is missing.
2. This step coulf also be extended with larger image where it's clear how to grab microphone.
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Dévissez les vis tri-wing suivantes, fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis tri-wing de 5,5 mm.
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Une vis tri-wing de 13,5 mm.
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Ôtez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.
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Saisissez le côté gauche de la carte mère et soulevez-la jusqu'à ce que les ports s'écartent du côté du boîtier supérieur.
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Éloignez la carte mère du côté du boîtier supérieur et retirez-la en évitant que la carte de raccordement MagSafe (DC-In) ne reste accrochée.
When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.
Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!
I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!
WARNING WARNING
Citation de Lusfn shsogh :
Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!
I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!
WARNING WARNING
I had a tough time getting one of the battery screws out - the tri-slotted ones (who ever heard of tri-slotted screws?!?) and stripped one of them. I covered the rest of the logic board carefully and cut a new slot in the screw head with a dremel - VERY carefully. worked like a charm.
When i pulled mine up, it was stuck to the protective sheet guarding the keyboard and it ripped on the way up
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Retirez deux vis cruciformes fixant le support du disque dur du boîtier.
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Soulevez le support de retenue hors du boîtier.
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Retirez les quatre vis suivantes fixant la nappe du disque dur et du capteur IR au boîtier :
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Deux vis cruciformes de 1,5 mm
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Deux vis cruciformes de 4 mm
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Éloignez le support du disque dur et du capteur IR du bord du boîtier.
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Décollez soigneusement la nappe du disque dur et du capteur IR du boîtier.
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Retirez les deux vis extérieures Torx de 6 mm fixant de chaque côté le support de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).
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Saisissez le boîtier avec votre main droite et faites-le pivoter légèrement vers le haut de l'écran, de sorte que le support supérieur de l'écran s'écarte du bord du boîtier supérieur.
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Faites légèrement pivoter l'écran pour l'écarter du boîtier.
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Soulevez l'écran et éloignez-le du boîtier, en tenant compte des supports ou des nappes susceptibles de rester accrochés.
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Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 1,2 mm entourées en rouge.
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Éloignez le trackpad du bord extérieur du boîtier supérieur.
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Retirez le trackpad et mettez-le de côté.
There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour visser lâchement la vis de blocage de 1,1 mm incluse avec votre nouveau boîtier dans son trou moulé près du milieu de l'orifice du trackpad sur votre nouveau boitier.
I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.
my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.
i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.
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Insérez soigneusement la nappe de votre ancien trackpad à travers la fente découpée dans votre nouveau boîtier.
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Utilisez une main pour maintenir la nappe du trackpad en place lorsque vous insérez les deux pattes de retenue du bord extérieur du trackpad sous le rebord du boîtier supérieur.
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Tirez sur la nappe du trackpad lorsque vous placez le trackpad dans son emplacement dans votre nouveau boîtier.
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Serrez les deux vis extérieures le long du bord intérieur du trackpad et vérifiez l'alignement de celui-ci sur le côté extérieur du boîtier supérieur.
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Si l'alignement semble bon, vissez le reste des vis cruciformes le long du bord intérieur du trackpad.
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Avant de réassembler votre machine, vérifiez que la vis de blocage permet toujours à la souris de cliquer correctement.
You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.
Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.
Masood -
I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.
My keyboard tasted good coffee and as a consequence keys "/", Enter, RShift, up/down arrows do not work. I was looking to replace upper casing but then saw your comment. My question is: can I get the keyboard alone, without top housing? IIUC that's exactly what you did, right? If so, where can I get the part? Cheers!
ebelin -
If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?
I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.
All those screws will make you go crosseyed!
It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.
I’m glad you managed !!!
I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……
In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..
Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((
I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.
Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………
I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?
I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.
Hmmm.... I wrote a comment but cant find it now. I asked where I might find a diagnostic page to find out what components may have been damaged by minor water spill. I opened this model A1278 Mac Air (2010?) and there was some corrosion on logic board near power connection which I cleaned off with alcohol/toothbrush. Nothing from online tips will make it power on. This is a great guide to dis-assembly but I don't know what is wrong, e.g., logic board, key board, etc. Tips on how to proceed.? Thanks.
Hi Guys could anyone please assist on where I can order the MacBook Pro top case on the internet? Many thanks :)
iFixit sells them….
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Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce guide.
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2 commentaires
Very good tutorial. Guide was 100% accurate. As mentioned, make sure you have good quality tools, and follow the guide to be certain the right get tool is used for certain screws, I did strip one screw head, in my opinion not bad considering all the tiny screws! But now my MacBook works, and save me having to spend on a new MacBook!
It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.
scott523 - Réponse
The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!
iphonetechtips -
A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.
johnsawyercjs -
Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."
In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.
johnsawyercjs -
One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.
Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...
Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.
johnsawyercjs -
Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.
David Fear -
Perfect man!Many thanks!:)
wertaerte - Réponse
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
twisk - Réponse
thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.
BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.
xitxit2 -
i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big
plins718 - Réponse
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Réponse
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/
Eric Sorenson - Réponse
Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.
danzeitlin -
I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.
jonathanmorgan - Réponse
I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.
john - Réponse
Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?
Igor - Réponse
The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.
Some info here:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...
"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"
"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."
Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.
Winston -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Réponse
I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.
tarriojuan - Réponse
Had no idea they were so expensive.
Franklin - Réponse
Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.
Luis Soto - Réponse
There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?
Luis - Réponse
If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.
gkofga - Réponse
What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.
John Doe -
<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>
I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)
THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.
Joseph King - Réponse
It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...
Mike - Réponse
Wonderful guide
Freda - Réponse