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Changement écran MacBook Air 2022 (M2)
Introduction
Passez à l'étape 1Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer l'écran cassé de votre MacBook Air 2022 (M2).
Remarque : Changer votre écran MacBook Air 2022 (M2) désactive sa fonctionnalité True Tone.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Pièces
Outils
Afficher plus…
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Éteignez votre MacBook Air et débranchez tous les câbles.
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Fermez l’écran et retournez l’ordinateur portable. Gardez le couvercle fermé jusqu’à ce que vous ayez physiquement débranché la batterie.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Utiliser un tournevis pentalobe P5 pour retirer les quatre vis de 6,4 mm fixant le boîtier inférieur :
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Deux vis avec une partie filetée courte près des charnières
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Deux vis avec une longue partie filetée près de l’avant du MacBook
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Posez une ventouse au centre du bord avant du boîtier inférieur.
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Tirez sur la ventouse avec une force forte et constante pour créer un petit espace entre le boîtier inférieur et le châssis.
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Insérez un médiator dans l’espace.
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Faites glisser le médiator vers le coin inférieur droit pour dégager le premier clip.
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Faites glisser le médiator autour du coin et le long du bord droit pour dégager le clip suivant.
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Gardez le boîtier inférieur à plat et tirez-le fermement tout droit loin du bord arrière, un coin à la fois, pour dégager les languettes coulissantes.
It's obvious once you know how, but I think that stating the direction of force you apply to the lower case (towards the front) to separate the sliding tabs would be helpful.
Thank you for the great instructions!
The back tabs are meant to slide down towards the track pad. Do not pull up on the back tabs
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Retirez le boitier inférieur.
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Placez le boîtier inférieur et alignez les languettes coulissantes avec les têtes de vis sur lesquelles elles glissent. Appuyez et faites glisser le bas du boîtier vers le bord arrière pour engager les languettes – il cessera de glisser lorsque les languettes s’engageront.
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Une fois que le boîtier inférieur est aligné avec le châssis, appuyez fermement le long du contour pour engager les quatre clips.
Nice !
I'd bet that if iFixit was to source upgraded replacement lower case 'feet' with a material like nearly any earlier macbook air or pros had--less hard and slippery--they'd sell a lot of them. I'd buy several sets. The OEM feet are horrible and not very 'Apple' in quality.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer les deux vis de 1,5 mm qui fixent le cache du connecteur de la batterie.
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Utilisez un médiator pour faire levier et débrancher le connecteur à emboîter de la batterie.
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Décollez et retirez la mousse du cache de la nappe de l'écran inférieur pour faire apparaître une vis cachée.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer les neuf vis de 1,5 mm qui fixent les quatre caches métalliques.
Using a brand new Wiha kit (which I needed to order because I lacked the needed T1 for step 25), the screws were T3, a T4 was too big.
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Retirez les quatre vis fixant le cache de la nappe de l'écran supérieur :
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Deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 2,5 mm
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Deux vis Torx T3 de 2,5 mm
I found that using a P1 was necessary as the P2 doesn't fit. It could also be the screws that were installed vary slightly.
I think you need a new p2 bit
Mucho cuidado, aunque los tornillos estén duros, si se hace demasiada fuerza hacia abajo pueden romperse los soportes inferiores.
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Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'une spatule (spudger) pour faire levier et déconnecter les deux connecteurs à emboîter de la nappe de l'écran.
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Avec un tournevis Torx T3, retirez les deux vis de 2,6 mm qui fixent les caches des charnières droite et gauche.
These screws were really hard to remove. I suggest being VERY careful. They both stripped almost immediately and getting them out was nearly impossible. I'd suggest VERY carefully making sure that your driver bit fits before applying any force at all here. The first one I tried didn't work at all.
Thanks for advice.
Found them a bit hard to wiggle loose after getting the screws out - they seemed glued in. Was terrified of applying force, slipping and then breaking something, but I was okay. Left one was harder.I was able to use a S2 T4 bit that I found in a odd set that I have. It seems to work well on the ones that I have tried.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T5 pour retirer les six vis qui fixent les haut-parleurs gauche et droit :
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Quatre vis de 5,6 mm (deux sur chaque haut-parleur)
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Deux vis de 3,5 mm (une sur chaque haut-parleur)
On the A2681 that I am working on, the Four 5.6mm (highlighted in red) were T3 screws, ( not T5 as noted as of 1/2/2025 )
Do not remove
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Soulevez les haut-parleurs et retirez-les.
Do not remove
With the speakers installed the lid fouls on them and can't be removed. Maybe subtle differences between different units...
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Posez votre ordinateur portable sur le côté.
Fully open the screen. I didn't first time, then had too. Small point, but if not fully open, it won't slide out.
Bonjour,
Super tuto, mais il manque l'étape du capteur d'angle à la fin. Ce n'est pas trop gênant et j'ai bien réussi le changement de mon écran...
Bravo et merci
Bonne journée
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Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine. Vous devrez peut-être transférer des composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pensez à déposer tous vos déchets électroniques dans les bacs de recyclage prévus à cet effet.
La réparation MacBook Air 2022 ne s'est pas passée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine. Vous devrez peut-être transférer des composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pensez à déposer tous vos déchets électroniques dans les bacs de recyclage prévus à cet effet.
La réparation MacBook Air 2022 ne s'est pas passée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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28 commentaires
Does the screen display normally after replacing it with the aftermarket screen? As far as I know, after 2021, MacBooks have problems with screen output when they are replaced with aftermarket screens.
Hi! We tested swapping screens between two M2 MacBook Airs and didn't find any issues with the screen. The problem is with the MacBook Pros.
Is this doable without scratching or chipping the body if done using the ifixit tool kit?
Hello! It's definitely doable! If you're worried, I would take extra care when standing the laptop up to make sure you set it on a surface that won't scratch the body. Also, be careful when guiding the hinges out of the frame to avoid brushing against the frame.
Yes, unfortunately the true tone functionality will be lost even between two of the same devices.
500$ for the screen is too expensive :(( Can you replace it for me for free ? ;))
I'm having an issue with the screen angle. I had to replace screens on three MacBooks. One worked great and the other two didn't. It works fine if the screen angle is open less than 30°. Opening further than this disables the screen and touchpad.
Hi James! It sounds like there might be a problem with the lid-angle sensor. It might be folded in a weird way, at a strange angle, or damaged, causing the laptop to think it's closed when it's open. I would suggest taking the lower case off and checking the cable.
I've checked and reseated that cable. Tried another cable and no difference. If I put the original screen back on it works fine. It makes me think it has something to do with whatever actually transmits the angle to that cable. Is there a magnet or sensor in the hinges or screen itself? Is there a way to recalibrate it?
Unfortunately, the only way to recalibrate it is by going through Apple. I'm surprised it was still happening after trying a different cable. As for magnets or sensors, I can check tomorrow and get back to you.
Hi James, I checked the area of the laptop around the lid angle sensor with magnetic viewing film today and it looks like there's a magnet very close to the lid angle sensor on the frame near the power button. I didn't see anything on the screen.
I’m having an issue of “water marks” inside the screen, so my macbook got washed up in a rain and the water is going inside the screen, right now the condition is all functioning well, the water already dried up but it left a huge marks inside the screen. Is it doable to tear the screen and clean it up and reassembly it again, thanks
Hi! No,You need to get new display.Cheers
Very nice presentation!
Do you know if the Air 13" M2 and M3 display screens are interchangeable?
Thanks.
I have followed these instructions and installed the new screen. I turned it on and everything started to work. Then after about 5 minutes the screen went off and it stopped working again. I opened the bottom again, undid the screen connectors and redid them. The computer turned on again and then went off after a couple of minutes. Is there a trick to getting those connectors seated correctly?
Hi Samuel! Reconnecting press connectors can be tricky. Here's a guide that covers some general information about them. For larger connectors like the screen ones, press down on one side until it clicks into place, and then press down on the other side. Don't try pressing down in the middle.
With regards to the lid angle sensor. My T2 from the fixit Manta driver kit doesn't fit and there is not a T1 in the kit. I had to abandon the repair :(
Add this to your tool Kit! Precision T1 Torx Screwdriver, JAKEMY Professional Electronics Repair Screwdriver, Reinforced S2 Tool Steel
Any suggestions to diagnose a blank screen after install ? Cable seems seated well. Are there steps or connections that if not properly made will disable the display ?
The removal part went well. Would love tips for re-attaching the tiniest screws like the lid angle sensor. It was often pulled toward the magnetized hinge metal before I could seat it.
Angle position sensor. I noticed on new aftermarket they now have an adjustment on the side on the hinge to correct this issue.
Excellent guide - thank you! MacBooks are getting like phones these days in how tightly everything fits. I do think this was an easier swap than older MacBooks. Having the antennae cables and everthing go up through the middle is easier than the old unibodies.
Anyway, fitted a new screen for a friend - 200GBP - considerable saving over Apple's pricing!
take this out of the guide "lid angle sensor cable screw" you dont have to mess with that. matter of face speakers can all stay too smh
After replacing my screen, the machine no longer sleeps when I close the lid. Yes, I checked pmset. It seems like the lid angle sensor needs to be recalibrated (my replacement screen did not include a lid angle sensor). The official Apple guide says that I need to perform System Configuration after replacing the screen (https://support.apple.com/en-us/108333), but I am not able to follow the steps there after step 7 - instead it asks me something about an offline session.
For now at least I have a working screen which is good.
There is a lid angle sensor recalibration tool https://notebooknerds.de/en/nerd-tool-1/ which I will probably try next.
